Taurus 669 Jammed

[banek]

I need help. I bought a Taurus 669 357 Mag. revolver recently really cheap & have had no problems with it until yesterday. Now I can't release the cylinder with the thumb piece. I flushed it out with brake cleaner & soaked it with oil but the pin still won't come out far enough to release the cylinder. I think it might be a broken spring. I got an exploded view on line but that's not much help. I tried to take the side plate off but I don't want to force anything & I'm sure I'm missing something. Any ideas short of going to a gunsmith?
BANEK

 

[Armored farmer]

I had a similar problem w/ my 669. my ejector rod had unscrewed slightly and was keeping the cyl locked in. As i recall....it was l.h. thread. try to tighten the ejector rod.
good luck

 

[Armored farmer]

the more i think of it....I believe mine was not allowing the cyl to close up in the frame. It was years ago, and a quick fix....but I think that it still may be the root of your problem.

 

[hogshead]

Loose ejector rod

 

[banek]

That's exactly what it was! Thanks a lot. I never thought it would be an easy fix. I'm going to a pin shoot this afternoon & I wanted to try the Taurus.
Thanks again,
BANEK

 

[Armored farmer]

Taurus gets looked down upon sometimes, but my 669 has a great trigger and is accurate.
We should use a drop of Loctite on the ejector rod threads.

 

[wally]

We should use a drop of Loctite on the ejector rod threads

In general, probably not, unless its made so a "standard" tool can apply enough torque to overcome the Loc-Tite (heat ~500F will be needed with some formulations). Otherwise you risk buggering it up big time should it ever actually need to be removed.

Degrease the threads and check for tightness after every cleaning is what I'd recommend.

 

[banek]

kb bailey,
I know what you mean about Taurus. I hear that a lot but years ago I had a 9mm Taurus & now I'm sorry I sold it. I liked it much better than the 915 S&W I carry now. Also I can get some thread lock at work for the problem. It's not as permanent as Loctite.
Thanks again to you guys.
BANEK

 

[rcmodel]

De-grease it and use a small drop of BLUE #242 Lock-Tight on it and you will never have to mess with it again.

As long as you use the BLUE #242 formula, it can be easily taken apart without heat if it ever becomes necessary.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/threadlockers.shtml

rc

 

[banek]

I fixed the ejector rod & went to a pin shoot this afternoon & had no problems with the revolver. I shot like crap but not the fault of the gun! Funny though every time someone mentioned a Taurus every one spit!!! Most of the guns there cost a house payment! Always fun though.
BANEK

 

[Mac's Precision]

In most cases there are no needs to resort to chemical thread lockers on an ejector rod. I would avoid it myself. In many cases simply putting fired empty cases in the chambers to support the ejector star and then putting the ejector rod in a rubber or leather padded vise then turning the cylinder will allow you to cinch the rod tight enough.

IF the thread fit on the rod is poor and there isn't ample thread engagement you might have issues getting it to tighten properly then blue locker would be appropriate as a solution. Use it with some care and don't allow it to run in critical spots that will cause problems later with a stuck ejector or center pin.

Be aware that the threads are fine and it is a stainless gun so the threads will be prone to galling if removed later after threadlocker is used. If the threads become galled it might cost you a ejector rod and or ejector star. You can see and feel the thread fit, we can't...use your best judgement.

Cheers
Mac.

 

[Jim K]

You might find that soft copper jaws work better than rubber or leather and won't mess up the knurling on the ejector rod.

Jim

 

[Mac's Precision]

Good advice Jim...

I have never had my rubber jaws give any trouble with knurling at all. I use the jaws available through Brownell's that have some sturdy belting rubber on it.

Actually a smooth steel jawed vise...if tightened tight...so there is no slip...will work as well .. Many of the knurled sections are below shaft diameter so the jaws never touch it. If I get one that is SUPER tight...I often use my 3 jaw lathe chuck to hold it. I made a "collet" type tool that fits my 3 jaw...and holds the ejector rod.

Bunch of different ways to skin a cat...but in the end that rod has to be tight....nothing stops a good revolver in it's tracks faster...well 'cept for a broken hammer nose....or a trigger shoe that slipped down...

Seemed like the police on range day would have at least one S&W ...unscrew...causing some guy in uniform to have heart failure.

Cheers
Mac.