Tell me about the model 10?

[Colt Smith]

Ok,it's done. In fact, it HAD TO be done. Those darn M10's just kept mocking me from inside the case. But I had the last laugh! I picked up the better of the two 10's AND a minty M15. They wanted $149 for the 10 and $449 for the 15. I offered them $525 for the set. They placed a call to the owner of the M15 which was on consignment and 10 minutes later it was done. Maybe the 15 should've been less but it sure is pretty and she needed a good home. After the paperwork goes through and they come home I will try to post some pics.

 

[Shade00]

That's a good price on an excellent condition Model 15. Congrats!

 

[Rob1035]

1911Tuner: you ever lop the thumb spur off a K-frame? The DA on my 10-5 is so go I never shoot SA, and the spur catches on my shirt when I carry.

I'm only an hour or so away, and can provide home-made biscuits for your flock

 

[boomvark]

Well, my snubby is technically a pre-Model 10 Military & Police. It's a square butt made (I'm guessing) sometime in the early '50s, and thus is appreciably older than I am. When I got it--still in its original box--it appeared to have been carried very little and shot even less. I'm now doing my best to correct those oversights at every possible opportunity.



Take a look at that target shot from 25'. The two holes at the bottom were preliminary shots aimed at the "K5/D2" label, fired single-action off a rest just to see if the weapon was shooting more or less where it looked. The ones in the center were all done double-action. In fact, most were fast double-taps from an unsupported isosceles stance. This was with a dead-on hold. The 3 fliers were all called while I was getting kinda sloppy towards the end of the session on this target.

BTW, this is with standard pressure MagTech 158 grain LSWCs. I'm itching to try this same gun with the standard pressure Buffalo Bore LSWC 158s.

Oh, yes, I love the M10. In many ways I think it's the definitive medium-frame DA revolver. I shoot better with this snubby M&P than with the G19 or even the CZ-75 Compact. Next I want a Model 10 in 4” barrel length, and we'll see where things go from there.

 

[JesseL]

My M&P, inherited from Grandad:

 

[papajohn]

Jesse, that's absolutely gorgeous! Grandad sure took good care of his stuff..............that one looks just like the one I was issued, except that it has three times as much finish left on it. Mine was beautiful in its own way.....slickest DA pull I'll ever know, and I helped it get that way, though it was pretty good when I got it.

Rob 1035, lopping off the hammer spur is a pretty straightforward operation, I did mine with a dremel ( GASP!) in about an hour. It looks good, if I do say so myself. I made sure I didn't let it get too hot, sliced off the spur with a cut-off wheel, and ground down the stub, then finished it off with finer and finer bits until it was done, it almost looks like it came that way.

Of course, if you're just looking for a good excuse to hang out with 1911Tuner, and share some good chow, go for it!

Papajohn

 

[1911Tuner]

1911Tuner: you ever lop the thumb spur off a K-frame?

I have, and as long as the mainspring's strain screw hasn't been shortened to create less "pull" you shouldn't have a problem with primer ignition unless you use CCI's tough mil-spec primers. Federal or Winchester primers are good to go.

Yeah, I know. That's the hack's way to reduce the DA pull...but it was done a lot in days gone by. You can get by with a little strain screw trimming with a heavy target hammer, but not so well with a narrow one.

Incidentally...Never bob the hammer on a J-frame. Not enough hammer mass.

Lemme see if I can dig up a picture of my pencil-barrel Model 10. 1965 production...pre-Bangor Punta...and so little use, there isn't a drag line around the cylinder in the picture. That's changed now...

 

[1911Tuner]

A little off-topic...but while we're on Smith & Wessons...How 'bout this pristine 1962 Model 27, eh?

 

[32winspl]

....some things to look for if you're new to S&W Model 10's,
My Aunt has my Gramps old Mod 10. Looks just like the ones in posts 26, 55, and 57. However, his is in caliber .38 S&W, this is not to be mistaken for, and loaded with .38 Spl.
Wiser people here than me can describe the size differences between the rounds. But know this; .38 SPECIAL IS SMALLER IN DIAMETER THAN .38 S&W!!!!!!

 

[papajohn]

32winspl makes an interesting point, the 38 S&W has a case diameter seven thousandths larger thatn the 38 Special, but with older guns the 38 Special might chamber. Bullet diameter is essentially the same, but the 38 S & W guns were quite often shacklety old top-breaks, and aren't designed for the pressures generated by the Special. In a pre-ten the gun may be stronger, but still not designed for modern ammo.

Just a guess, but I'd bet some of the older guns would chamber 38 SPL ammo, with chamber throats bored straight through or eroded over time. I doubt you'd get more than a few shots fired before the gun came apart. It pays to read the markings on the gun!

PJ

 

[Shade00]

.38 S&W will not chamber in a gun chambered for .38 special, and .38 special will not chamber in a gun chambered for .38 S&W UNLESS the chamber throat was bored straight through or it had eroded enough to allow the cartridge to fit in.

.38 Special (left) vs. .38 S&W

Trying to put .38 special in a .38 S&W revolver. The bullet on the .38 special LRN would actually be sticking out the front of the cylinder if the throat didn't keep it from going in all the way.

Finally, trying to fit a .38 S&W into a .38 special. Won't fit. The casing is too big.

 

[Old Fuff]

During the 1950's a large number of British service revolvers (Smith & Wesson, Colt, Enfield and Webley) chambered in .38 S&W were imported as military surplus. To make the Smith's and Colt's more attractive to U.S. buyers many of them were rechambered to .38 Special.

This was not a good conversion, because .38 Special cases could sometimes split at the neck, and the .38 Special bullets were undersized for the .38 S&W bores. However they remain the one instance where a revolver marked .38 S&W or .38-200 can chamber a .38 Special cartridge.

Also to keep things straight:

1899 - 1942 = 1905 Hand Ejector (Military & Police Model) .32-20 or .38 Special

1942 - 1945 = Victory Model (either .38 S&W or .38 Special)

1946 - 1957 = Pre-Model 10 (.38 Special)

1957 and thereafter = Model 10 (.38 Special)

 

[JesseL]

1946 - 1957 = Pre-Model 10 (.38 Special)

Not trying to confuse things, but surely S&W didn't call these guns their "Pre-Model 10"? The original box from my grandad's gun (1948 - 1951) says "38 Military & Police Revolver".

 

[Shade00]

No, 'Pre-models' are a name given by collectors.

 

[Old Fuff]

No, 'Pre-models' are a name given by collectors.

True, and in fact, during it's entire history S&W simply called it the Military & Police, or M&P.

But after World War Two, model names gave their early-day computers fits, so they went to model numbers. In terms of human beings it was a mistake because many customers (or potential ones) have been confounded & confused ever since.

 

[32winspl]

Again, regarding Gramps Mod 10. It is clearly marked 38 S&W. Me being young and stupid at the time, I went out and bought a box of 38 Spl (don't remember the bullet type but it wasn't wadcutter). They went into the cylinder just fine. The cylinder closed just fine. And the six I shot fired "just fine". Except that every shot peppered me with what may have been lead shavings or tiny peices of case. When I opened the cyl, the cases wouldn't fall free. Every one of them had split... some full length. I didn't shoot any more.
But to reiterate, at least in this particular Mod 10, 38Spl will fit and fire (tho not safely) in a gun marked 38 S&W. If not absolutely sure of cartridge marking, ask.

 

[Old Fuff]

Once again.....

During the 1950's a large number of British service revolvers (Smith & Wesson, Colt, Enfield and Webley) chambered in .38 S&W were imported as military surplus. To make the Smith's and Colt's more attractive to U.S. buyers many of them were rechambered to .38 Special.

This was not a good conversion, because .38 Special cases could sometimes split at the neck, and the .38 Special bullets were undersized for the .38 S&W bores. However they remain the one instance where a revolver marked .38 S&W or .38-200 can chamber a .38 Special cartridge.

The serial number should be on the butt. If not, look on the rear face of the cylinder, and bottom of the barrel above the ejector rod. Swing out the cylinder to see it. Post the number, using xx for the last 2 numbers, and also on the butt see if there is a letter "V" along with number. Then it should be possible to confirm that it is not a model 10, but a Military & Police or Victory model made between 1940-1945. The model 10 didn't come along until 1957.

 

[32winspl]

Thanks Old Fuff. I'm ashamed to say it, but it took a second reading to sink in. (sound familliar?)
My Aunt has custody of the revolver. I'll ask her to bring it the next time she comes up.

 

[kcmitch]

I have a 1968 Model 10. Fantastic gun. Everyone that sees it wants it. Does that answer your question.