Tell me the difference in AR parts.......

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viking499

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I am new to the AR game. Planning on building one from scratch to help understand how it all fits together. Did the same thing with a 45 last winter, so I can handle the mechanics end.

Nt sure about the upper choice yet, but picked up a stripped lower this evening. While looking for parts, I see a lot of reference to A2 and A4 parts.

What does the A? refer to?

Is there anything I want to pick up part wise or stay away from?
 
if you get m4 feed ramps, make sure you get them in both the barrel and the upper receiver, or neither.
 
Buy a book........?? I have never known instructions to come with anything......:rolleyes:
 
I have shared this a few times on thehighroad, but google "So you want to buy an AR15 HUH?" and you will go to a forum thread that explains more about all the different AR parts, barrels, feed ramps, how to match/not match properly to upper receiver m4 cuts, proper staking, everything. Well worth the read:

http://forums.officer.com/t81462/

Russellc
 
while the forums.officer.com link is a decent read, keep in mind it is the "opinion" of one guy which is frequently pretty suspect. e.g. he "has YET to EVER hear of a part failing MPI" and considers it and shot peening voodoo. e.g. he thinks 5.56 will not feed reliably in 223rem chamber. e.g. his advice to use red loctite instead of staking on the castle nut. etc... etc...
 
Lower receiver parts may look alike but they can be poor quality or good quality..cheap receiver extensions need to be avoided as many are weaker aluminum and often not smooth inside after the threads have been installed. Suck it up and buy name parts from Brownells or other name suppliers and stay away from ebay.
 
A is essentially a version or configuration. Like Apple s osx 10.4 vs 10.5.

A1 was the original triangular handguard vietnam version. A2 was the 20" round handguards fixed stock version.
But for parts buying, a2 has a carry handle and a3&4 have a flat top railed upper.
 
The stickies on arfcom explain not only the variations but also assembly.

Beware the "milspec" trap, some consider it the only available grade of part and that it's the premium, other's understand it's a nice minimum standard for government work to protect the taxpayer. Also, the TDP, or specs for the M4, which are again for an issue government rifle. They may, or may not suit someone's individual situation. They are, or, are not changed due to negotiation with Colt if Colt can prove something less expensive can do the job. Like, button rifled and chromed barrels, which are about the last issued in the free world. Most other guns are hammer forged and nitrided because the makers invested more in the machinery then we would. It's all about profit.

From there, it gets into matching all the necessary parts required for the proper operation of the gas system for that barrel length. It is not a chinese menu where you can do whatever you want. Specific barrel lengths require specific parts for that specific gas port location, it's all about the correct timing. Mess with the proven recipes and you get a weapon that won't operate reliably.

One aspect of that is to always remember the M16/M4 was built to run on full power tactical ammo and the related gas charge it produces. A misconception you can shoot any ammo you want in them is what causes a lot of malfunctions.
 
Here are links to retro sitesw & forums. They will help you learn about the older ARs
http://www.retroblackrifle.com/
http://www.m4carbine.net/forumdisplay.php?148-Vintage-ARs
http://www.ar15.com/forums/f_3/123_AR_15___M_16_Retro_Forum.html

This subforum wll help you understand about the A2
http://www.ar15.com/forums/f_3/127_A2_Builds.html

Forums about building. Most posts have a list of parts used
http://www.m4carbine.net/forumdisplay.php?5-Custom-Build-Forum
http://www.ar15.com/forums/f_3/4_Build_It_Yourself.html

Tirod it would help noobs if it were explained that while milspec isn't the end all do all standard it's also not the minimum. It is simply a standard and one that's known to work. There are certain specs that ensure the AR operates optimally and they can be found in the milspec.

While there are certain non-milspec parts that exceed the performance of milspec parts for certain applications there are also non-milspec parts that are inferior for all applications
 
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while the forums.officer.com link is a decent read, keep in mind it is the "opinion" of one guy which is frequently pretty suspect. e.g. he "has YET to EVER hear of a part failing MPI" and considers it and shot peening voodoo. e.g. he thinks 5.56 will not feed reliably in 223rem chamber. e.g. his advice to use red loctite instead of staking on the castle nut. etc... etc...
As far as I am concerned, all internet info is suspect in some way or the other, some more than others. At least this covers most of the major parts discusses them, shows pics of examples. Opinions for sure but the info and pics were gold when I started trying to figure out one end from the other on the AR. For this, the article is valuable.

When I had doubts, I just posed the question over here! If you are wondering about things the original poster asked about, its worth a look for sure. Like all internet opinions, keep a large bag of salt from which to pluck grains...but if you want to see bad staking from good staking, there are good pics there. If you are wondering about M-4 feed ramps, what they can go with and shouldnt go with, there are good pics of that there, borrowed from a barrel specific site. Look at it for the pics, ask questions here, form your opinion, make your choices and pay your money.

The read is NOT perfect, but it is the largest collection of pics explaining the basics that I know of, and am wide open to anyone showing me a better one, I always want to learn. It is of more value to the newb...I kept reading about all the different parts, versions, barrels, uppers lowers and was confused. This will help with that, just remember the caveats!

Russellc
 
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Overheard a lunch conversation today on AR15 lowers (I work for a high tech company). "Know it all" didn't but I kept quiet. Kept talking about "molded" vs billet or "composite" lowers. Pretty sure "molded" was his idea of forged. He seemed to think they were cast to shape.

Mike

PS. The guy on the officer.com thread really knows his stuff (even when he is wrong :D).
 
Pretty much the only parts I wouldn't go really cheap on are the barrel, bolt carrier group, & barrel nut. They are IMO the three most important parts on an AR for reliability aside from the magazines. Besides these parts you can use a lot of pretty cheap options and still end up with a very reliable rifle in the end.

Just do your research on each part you need and you'll discover a bunch of options. Look some of these up and you'll be able to determine which option fits both your needs and budget. It's just a lot of reading and searching, take some time to check the links above and absorb the information.
 
Pretty much the only parts I wouldn't go really cheap on are the barrel, bolt carrier group, & barrel nut. They are IMO the three most important parts on an AR for reliability aside from the magazines. Besides these parts you can use a lot of pretty cheap options and still end up with a very reliable rifle in the end.

Just do your research on each part you need and you'll discover a bunch of options. Look some of these up and you'll be able to determine which option fits both your needs and budget. It's just a lot of reading and searching, take some time to check the links above and absorb the information.
Yup. This is what I am attempting to pull off. No hurry, have others being built and ready to shoot ones. Just when the upper and lower came in so low in price, the idea was born. I avoid crap parts, but obviously not getting top of the line either. I have had good luck with fairly inexpensive bolt carrier groups from AIM, I bought one a while back for 119.99 w/free shipping that I was surprised and impressed with. Also one at a similar price point that was nickle boron treated. The 89.99 one had a little machine marks the others did not, but no where critical. Bolt looks nice, Carpenter 158 and so forth, I think its more than adequate for what this gun needs.
The 89.99 BCG are sold out now, but they still have a nickle boron BCG at 99.99 and I just bought it, we will see what it is when it comes, who knows.


Russellc
 
Agreed, milspec isn't the least quality part on the market. In fact, one of the great unknowns in the AR parts world is what country of origin they come from. There are plants making AR's, and all the parts, across the world. There is no guarantee it's made in the USA - Brownell's attempts to flag all the US made parts, even so, it runs less than 50% in my casual perspective.

What lowers the price on the part may well be nothing to do with it's quality, however. One of those things is MPI - magnetic particle inspection. Basically the part is dusted and put in a magnetic field, it collects along cracks where the field is interrupted. That can show defects - it's an old technique used by machinists to inspect engine parts to prevent working on them when they are already defective.

The Army says they want every single bolt inspected - but the makers know they generally average a certain small percentage that will likely fail. Do they check every one? We take their word on it when it's marked, goes to buying the seller. But, a bolt that wasn't checked and marked isn't necessarily inferior - if the failure rate is, say, less than 1.5%, that's maybe one or two in a hundred. Under a mil contract they are culled, but looking again, that crack may be minimal and in an area that doesn't affect performance whatsoever, like, out on the tail of the bolt. Cracked lugs get scrapped.

So, the makers, already knowing they have a minimal defect rate, can and so skip the process because of the increased expense - and pass the savings on to the buyer. That bolt may be identical in all other respects. And, if it fails, it likely has a warranty because the makers don't like customers bad mouthing them. It hurts sales. It's just cheaper to hire someone in Customer Service than test every single bolt they make - much less all the other parts coming off the assembly line.

The TDP outlines all that for gov't purposes, but for civilian sales, the makers/assemblers have a price point to stick to. There are $1,500 AR's, and $650 AR's. To meet the lower sales price point, something has to give - and MPI inspection of every bolt is frequently targeted. Why? Because it's a government spec, and the makers only do it for contract guns. They don't MPI every bolt they sell in their other firearms, either. Again, it's expensive, and all those firing pins and slides in their critical defense handguns don't get it, either.

It's a internet chest thumping exercise in the AR world, nobody much else mentions it. And that is because the AR fan typically tries to find some reason to justify why his gun is better than everybody elses. It's oneupmanship, the locker room measuring contest. Actually being able to use it is RARELY discussed. Nobody talks about their latest ranking on the carbine at a match.

On gun forums, we talk a lot about guns, and parts, and the focus is on them. Not our skill or ability. So when it comes down to ordering the minions in their place, we tend to use the milspec TDP or whatever to rank the members. That's where we get into such spirited discussions - our ego is on the line. In reality, all the stuff that we insist be done with an AR would make the average handgun carried for self defense an expensive and inferior product.
 
Pretty much the only parts I wouldn't go really cheap on are the barrel, bolt carrier group, & barrel nut. They are IMO the three most important parts on an AR for reliability aside from the magazines. Besides these parts you can use a lot of pretty cheap options and still end up with a very reliable rifle in the end.

Just do your research on each part you need and you'll discover a bunch of options. Look some of these up and you'll be able to determine which option fits both your needs and budget. It's just a lot of reading and searching, take some time to check the links above and absorb the information.
I thought all barrel nuts were cheap :D

Mike
 
I used Brownells video series (free on their website) to "hold my hand" through my first build. Pretty easy after you do one.
 
Tirod it would help noobs if it were explained that while milspec isn't the end all do all standard it's also not the minimum.

when people say it's the 'minimum' there is usually an implied 'for a gov procurement contract' there. it's obviously not (from the context in most threads) meant to say nobody makes a crappier part than milspec. of course you can buy total junk parts, made-in-china whatever.
but as far as gov procurement is concerned, it seems fair to say the 'spec' defines the minimum, as the gov wouldn't for example, refuse to purchase a part because a vendor did more testing than was required.


Do they check every one? We take their word on it when it's marked, goes to buying the seller. But, a bolt that wasn't checked and marked isn't necessarily inferior - if the failure rate is, say, less than 1.5%, that's maybe one or two in a hundred. Under a mil contract they are culled, but looking again, that crack may be minimal and in an area that doesn't affect performance whatsoever, like, out on the tail of the bolt. Cracked lugs get scrapped.

So, the makers, already knowing they have a minimal defect rate, can and so skip the process because of the increased expense - and pass the savings on to the buyer. That bolt may be identical in all other respects. And, if it fails, it likely has a warranty because the makers don't like customers bad mouthing them. It hurts sales. It's just cheaper to hire someone in Customer Service than test every single bolt they make - much less all the other parts coming off the assembly line.

and where do you think the rejected parts go? into cheap civilian guns.
 
colt 6920,s are running around a 1000.00 at walmart,after shooting it(taking care of it) for several years you will be able to sell it for a few dollars less than you paid for it and if the government gets a wild hair up it aas you will be able to make money on it if to want. eastbank.
 
colt 6920,s are running around a 1000.00 at walmart,after shooting it(taking care of it) for several years you will be able to sell it for a few dollars less than you paid for it and if the government gets a wild hair up it aas you will be able to make money on it if to want. eastbank.
I would buy a 6920 myself for a second AR at that price if Walmart near me sold firearms. I'm in a part of Florida that Walmart doesn't sell guns. If I drive west about 2 hours I can probably find them though in a different part of the state.
 
I used to think that all barrel nuts were the same.

Nope.

My Troy Alpha FF rail would not work with anything but a Colt barrel nut. I had some barrel nuts from Brownells (High Standard), Palmetto State Armory, and Bravo Company. NONE of them worked with the Troy Alpha FF rail. And, when I say they didn't work, the FF rail was noticeably misaligned with the barrel. When I threw the Colt barrel nut on (and, those little ditties can be hard to find, by the way), my Troy Alpha FF rail was ramrod straight.
 
I'd call the reputable rifle manufactures and see what parts they will sell you. I'd buy a couple of extra pins and springs just for good bull. AR15 parts became as hard to find as a banded Pintail during the last two scares.

I've bought firing pins and some small parts from S&W.

Also ask if the parts you are buying are cast parts or forged or machined from stock.

Are the trigger and hammer pins on your new receiver small pin or large pin?
 
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