The 642 club

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I "joined the club" last weekend... I bought a 442. I've never been particularly attracted to revolvers, having cut my teeth a few years back on 1911's, but with a recent home invasion in my nice neck of the woods I decided to carry 100% of the time (I used to not carry in my home) and didn't particularly enjoy sitting on the couch with a 1911 sticking into my side. I looked at various small autos, but after trying a 642 in a pocket holster I was hooked!

In khakis, my normal attire, the 442 in a Kramer pocket holster simply looks like a wallet or one of the other 10 million electronic devices we all seem to carry nowadays. It draws well, and feels quite comfortable. I'm sure the scandium framed pistols are a bit more comfy, but this was a lot less money and felt good so I grabbed it.

I like blue (black, I guess, these days) better than silver, so I went with the 442. I sure hope the finish wears well.

I've shot it twice with standard 38 spl loads (CCI Blazer Brass), once 25 rounds and once 50 rounds. 15 rounds seems like a good amount, I'll start shooting it 15 each time I go to the range now. Beyond 15 rounds my accuracy starts to suffer, I guess I have a weak trigger finger from too many years of shooting 1911s :scrutiny:

An unexpected side benefit to this semiauto guy is the ease of cleaning! Holy HECK this pistola is a joy to clean.

I'm enjoying the wheelgun experience so much I'm considering a more potent wheelgun to occasionally take the place of my 45 autos as CCW. I'm thinking S&W 325PD, as it's 45 Auto and I have everything I need, all the time, for that caliber. Has anyone here shot a 325PD and a 442/642? How's the recoil comparison? I do fine with the 442, at least with the FMJ I've tried so far :D

I'll shoot some "film" and post piccies later, maybe over the weekend.
 
loplop, I'm in the same boat... I shoot nothing but semi-autos and 99% of those are 1911s.

From one 1911/.45ACP guy to another, what are the big differences I'll notice when I shoot a 642 compared to my 1911?
 
The cylinder spinning!

Seriously, don't laugh... I fixated on that (kindof like a "ooh, interesting" moment). It will surprise you when you first shoot one. No hammer coming back, of course, on my 442 (it's shrouded) but the cylinder spinning is a little interesting at first.

There is a different feel after the round touches off. When firing a 1911, you get a big push followed by the slide banging back, then forward. Even though you may not always articulate the steps of the shot/cycle, but you can feel the process occur. With the little snubby, you get a sharper push in the wrist, but it's very short and sharp; not as heavy and protracted as a 1911. I assume that is, of course, because there's no slide cycling!

I hope that description makes sense. I really have zero experience with revolvers so I'm sure some will say "duh" but it was really quite fun to shoot and I spent the first trip to the range noticing all sorts of "differences."

Personally, as mentioned above, I suffer GREATLY in accuracy after about 15 rounds. My finger must be super weak, and as it tires from the constant DA pull I start to wander. The first 15 the thing is quite surprisingly accurate!

It's from years of super-sweet 1911 triggers, I tell ya... :evil:

I really am considering another wheelgun. I have quite enjoyed the experience. Too bad 38 spl isn't any cheaper than 45ACP, tho.
 
I was looking at the 642 about a year ago, long before I saw this thread.

Now I see this thread and you've re-sparked my interest in the 642 again!

I can't decide which one to get...

642 plain, or 642 with crimson laser

Price difference is about $170. Is the laser really worth it?

This would be my 2nd wheel gun. I have a S&W 686 .357 Magnum 6" barrel. Enjoy shooting it, smooth action. My daily carry is a Glock 19 9mm on my belt and a Kel-Tec P-3AT .380 in my front pocket. Figured the 642 would be an ankle gun.
 
An unexpected side benefit to this semiauto guy is the ease of cleaning! Holy HECK this pistola is a joy to clean.
Aside from the joy of shooting revolvers again (I started with one, then switched to semi-auto), that cleaning aspect is a big part of the reason I decided to go back to revolvers. So, easy.

And no jams. (Not that I ever had one with my semi's - both were flawless in performance -
but the concern was always lurking in the back of my mind ... :uhoh: )

So, I bought my second revolver last weekend: SW 686+, a big brother for my lil' mule 642.
loplop said:
I really am considering another wheelgun. I have quite enjoyed the experience.
Oh, you are so hooked ... :D

(Unfortunately, I'm already secretly :uhoh: dreaming of
a Ruger Alaskan in .454 Casull,
but don't tell anyone ... :evil: )
 
tuna
I ccw my 642 almost daily - either as a primary or a bug. I bought my 642 without the ct grips and really liked the gun. I had the ct grips on my 640 and tried them on my 642 and haven't taken them off since. I really like them and IMO think they make the gun even better. If you can swing it, $165 is a great deal and worth doing.
Good luck!!
 
$165 for CT grips is a good deal.

I have them on both of my carry guns.. a 1911 CCO in 10mm and a J-frame .357

They shouldn't replace regular sights and good marksmanship practices, but they are a great addition to a SD gun.

They are a real bonus in poor lighting and older eyes.
 
or $324 for the plain 642 without laser

Does anyone have a rough estimate of what shipping might cost for this handgun? I'm thinking maybe $30 shipping + $20 transfer fee?
 
Bud's shipping is $25 and transfer fees are anywhere from $15-25 (maybe more if you're in an underserved area).
 
Thats about what I thought. If I got it from Bud's and had it shipped it (642 CT package) would be around $540 and if I get it from my local shop it would only be about $557. For a price difference of only $37 I think I'll support my local shop.

Since Bud's "has the best prices" I guess I'm lucky to live near a shop that has such competitive pricing. The 642 at my shop goes for $369.99 and the CT grips for $149.99.

Dad's Super Pawn in Gulfport, Mississippi, if anyone's in the area. Polite and helpful gun counter staff.

Edit: The 642 Club thread is the peoples' sticky! This thing has been at the top for months and months at a time and is almost a year old. Has fiVe started the longest living THR thread?
 
I have a question for the x42 hive mind about my 342

I have a Smith 342-1 and I was reading this thread with some fervor and I noticed many questions about dry firing the 642 and it "sparked" a question of my own.

When I dry fire my 342 there is a tiny blue spark that jumps from the firing pin to the Ti cylinder. Has anyone else noticed this with their x42.

Obligatory Pics of the gun and homemade pocket holster prototype. I will work on getting a picture of the spark!
 

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loplop,

The revolver bug has bitten! Resistance is futile!!! :evil:

No magazines to keep up with or load. No slide to rack. No bending over to pick up spent cases. No (well, very little) ammo sensitivity to worry about. Don't get me wrong, I like semi autos and I'd really like to have a 1911 one day. But I absolutely love my wheelies. BTW, having 38 special and 45ACP is a good reason to look into handloading. I have been picking up spent 38 and 357 cases at my local range for the last several months. I think I've brass whored about 3000 cases in prime condition.

Personally, as mentioned above, I suffer GREATLY in accuracy after about 15 rounds. My finger must be super weak, and as it tires from the constant DA pull I start to wander. The first 15 the thing is quite surprisingly accurate!

The little snub is capable of some rather astounding accuracy. The J Frame's trigger can seem heavy at first, but there is hope:

1. Make sure gun is unloaded
2. Repeat step 1
3. Repeat step 1, and step 2 just to be sure :p
4. Dry fire the crap out of it!

This will not only smooth out the trigger, your finger will get stronger in the process. As an added bonus, shooting your snubby will probably make you a better 1911 gunner.

Over time, you will not only get accustomed to the DA revolver pull, you may well begin to prefer it. I find the greater resistance of the DA pull gives me more "feel" for when the hammer is about to break. Kinda like the difference between a car with light, overboosted power steering that is difficult to brace against and another car with a nice, hefty feeling helm that inpsires confidence. For the record though, I do really like the 1911's SA trigger as well.

There is a different feel after the round touches off. When firing a 1911, you get a big push followed by the slide banging back, then forward. Even though you may not always articulate the steps of the shot/cycle, but you can feel the process occur. With the little snubby, you get a sharper push in the wrist, but it's very short and sharp; not as heavy and protracted as a 1911. I assume that is, of course, because there's no slide cycling!

Hey, I have a 642 and I've fired a few 1911s. Best description of the differences in feel I've ever read, good observations. I wonder though, would that mean the 642 can recover and get back on target sooner?

I'm enjoying the wheelgun experience so much I'm considering a more potent wheelgun to occasionally take the place of my 45 autos as CCW. I'm thinking S&W 325PD, as it's 45 Auto and I have everything I need, all the time, for that caliber. Has anyone here shot a 325PD and a 442/642? How's the recoil comparison?

The 325PD is an airlite 45ACP, correct? Cool concept, but I've heard that the 296 (44 Special Airlite) hurts like heck to shoot, so I'd assume the 45ACP wouldn't be much different. In anything stronger than 38+P, I personally prefer an all steel gun. I'd like to get a good IWB 357 Magnum one day. Something like a S&W Model 60, Ruger SP101, S&W K Frame, or most likely a 2.75" Ruger Security/Service/Speed Six. Awww heck, maybe I'll just get a 3" S&W Model 696 or 21 in 44 Special :evil: :D !

(Unfortunately, I'm already secretly dreaming of
a Ruger Alaskan in .454 Casull,
but don't tell anyone ... )

Nem,

Dude, you came bursting out of that closet a long time ago, no point in hiding it now ... don't be afraid of your feelings :D LOL!

The Ruger Alaskan is cool. Now that's a LOT of snubby to love. But you know, you have the following two revolvers:

S&W 642: DAO
S&W 686+: DA

What's missing? A SA perhaps? I know, I know, I'm a bit of a hypocrit at the moment ... but I used to own a SA Heritage Rough Rider Combo 22LR/22Mag. Paid $150 NIB. Really fun gun. Sold it. Stupid me :banghead:.

I think it would be cool to own something like a Cimarron Arms Model P in 45 Colt http://www.cimarron-firearms.com/ModelP/ModelPO-F.htm. Or a Ruger Blackhawk in 41 or 44 Magnum, or 45 Colt: http://www.ruger-firearms.com/Firearms/FAFamily?type=Revolver&subtype=Single Action&famlst=13. Any of them (especially the Rugers) would make excellent hunting guns. SA revolvers can deliver some pretty mind blowing accuracy.
 
For times when dry-firing isn't appropriate, one of those hand-strengthening squeezers should help as well.

I'm going to try one the next time I go see a matinee by myself.
 
Wow, I thaught this thread was long when it convinced me to buy a 442 way back on page 30 something.. Long live the 642 club!

PS, CDNN has some round to square butt conversion grips for J frames at less than 15 bucks. They really add to the controlability of this piece, and they don't look bad either. They aren't as well made as S&W factory grips, but they are nice for the price.
 
jad0110: I will do some dry firing. Gotta beef up that weak finger :fire:

I really do like firing the wheelgun. Can I get it back on target more quickly? *I* can't with the snubby, but that doesn't mean it isn't capable of it. I think in the Airweight version the muzzle flip is greater than a Govt. model 1911, so you can't get it back on target as quickly. It reminds me of my departed 3" 1911 with aluminum frame; the muzzle flip is pretty high.

That said, an all steel 45acp 4" barrel like I saw last night at the gun shop... (yeah, I went looking, lol) I bet that would drop to target more quickly than a 1911.

So the Scandium 325PD barks a little too much, eh? If the 44sp. does, I'd bet 45acp would, too. It's a nice looking little piece, in a high-tech sort of way. I'll pass on it.

I did see a few more that grabbed my eye. I'm a "blue" fan, a sucker for a nice blue job. There was a "Model 25" 3" snubby ($899):
http://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstore/SmWesson/upload/images/firearms/150124_large.jpg

45 ACP, steel, blued. Looks REALLY good in person, feels great in the hand. Very heavy and large, though... Are these things concealable? I'm not a big guy (5'10 165), so that could be an issue. I was comfortable concealing my 3" 1911's in good gun leather. I just don't know how easy that huge cylinder and long butt are to keep hidden. That said, I bet the steel frame 25 would shoot a bunch better than the AirLite 325PD. It seems a little pricey, compared to the full-size 625JM next to it, at $699.

I also liked the Thunder Ranch 45ACP ($749):
http://nas4.atlanta.gbhinc.com/GB/066317000/66317656/pix3245578690.jpg

Probably not concealable for me, but it sure looked pretty. I also found a Mountain Gun in 45 Colt... Not sure if I want to add another cartridge into my ammo rotation, though (which is one big reason the 45ACP's are calling my name). The rest of the S&W's I found were stainless, and while I appreciate the lack of fuss when taking care of stainless, it just doesn't "do it" for me.

So the Model 25 is in the running right now, I will try to do some forum searching to see if I can locate someone who has shot it. Also in the running is a new Sig P239 (small semiauto carry piece)... I "want" a wheelgun (yeah, I think the bug bit), but the new semiauto would be a real handy carry as I only have fullsize 1911's and other 45ACP's now.

Nematocyst-870: I got annoyed with cleaning my Colt Defender (3" 1911) and since I was having some extractor issue with it, I ended up selling the piece. As a bushingless 1911, it was more difficult than most to strip (or, actually, reassemble), and I was tired of the job. So, not shooting it much, it was sold. I recently bought a Sig P220 (Carry Equinox) and realized that modern pistols are remarkably easy to strip and clean. It's so easy...

But a wheelgun is even EASIER!

I'm taking my snubby and my P220 to the range tonight: you can bet I'll be praising the Sig when I'm shooting (it really is a joy to shoot) and the snubby when I'm cleaning :D
 
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Once comment about the CT Laser grips......the newest model from CT for the j-frame is the 435 (sorry if I get the model # wrong, this is off the top of my head), and this one has a rubber cushion on the back and looks to be a little shorter in the grip area.

From what I understand the CT grips that are still on the S&W models are not that model, but an older one (3-series?). These are a little longer in the grip and more plastic feeling.

For only a $165 price difference, the CT grips would be a great deal, but make sure they are the CT grip model you want. In my case, if I ever get CT grips, I'm going with the 435.
 
Crimson trace model LG-405 is the newest model with the more cushioned back strap. IMHO the recoil of the 642 even with +P's isn't that bad. I like the less sticky more plastic grips of the LG-305's. They don't stick as much on my clothes and therefore make it easier to draw from concealment. Having said that, the LG-405's make shooting my 640 with .357 loads much more pleasant. :D
 
New Member + Questions

Just picked up my 642 today. Can't wait to take it on the range.

I've read back to Post #1201 so far and have a couple of questions I don't see addressed so far.

My gun shop was out of the recommended Speer Golden Dot +P's and the sales person recommended the Remington Golden Saber +P's as a good alternative. Anyone have experience with this ammo?

I need to get some gun cleaning equipment. My net search results in a lot of different opinions on what cleaning kit (or individual components) to get (of course, each manufacturer touts their own stuff as the best). I don't need any fancy "universal" type kit since the 642 will be my only gun (at least for the foreseeable future). Any opinions, recommendations?

By the way, the "642 Club" is a great forum with lots of useful info and advice. It basically sold me on the 642 versus other alternatives I considered.
 
Cleaning kit is going to be basically the same for all pistols. You need a short rod, a bore brush (bronze, nylon, whatever), patches, a cleaner/lube (FP10/Breakfree), a patch puller, a powder/copper solvent (butch's bore shine, hoppe's no.9), and q-tips. I imagine for a revolver you would want some type of mop for the cylinder.

The only thing I would worry about brand names on is the bore cleaner and the CLP.

You could put together an entire kit like this for about $40 at Wal-Mart.
 
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