The interesting things about the 1873 Colt Peacemaker cylinder screw

I had to search through my hard drive, but I found this photo.

This is the style of hammer block that Uberti was using before they started using the two position cylinder pin. I had an Uberti years ago with one of these. I forget exactly how it worked, it was a long time ago.

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This is my set of hollow ground screw driver tips.I do not own a Colt with the Blackpowder style frame, but if I did I'm sure there would be a tip in this set that would fit the screw slot.

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By the way, the modern spring loaded transverse cylinder pin latch is not without its problems. Originally available on some Colts in 1892, by 1896 it became a standard feature.

But unless properly fitted at the factory, the latch can fail and allow the cylinder pin to slide forward under heavy recoil.

Trust me on this.

That is why there are after market spring kits available with extra strength springs for the latch.

Drift,

As to that Ubedfti safety, there was a rod through the hammer to the half cock (safety) notch. When the hammer was in that first notch, the sear part of the trigger pushed that rod upward, which rotated that "T" shaped safety to bear against the frame. In use it was about as good as a transfer bar. It truly blocked the hammer.
 
And, Driftwood said: "That is why there are after market spring kits available with extra strength springs for the latch."

I've found that even the stiffer springs are not always the answer. The base pin latch itself gets battered from impact so as to allow the base pin to slide past it. I keep a stock of base pin latches in my tool box for that reason.

This battering usually occurs around 15,000~20,000 rounds.

Bob Wright
 
And, Driftwood said: "That is why there are after market spring kits available with extra strength springs for the latch."

I've found that even the stiffer springs are not always the answer. The base pin latch itself gets battered from impact so as to allow the base pin to slide past it. I keep a stock of base pin latches in my tool box for that reason.

This battering usually occurs around 15,000~20,000 rounds.

Bob Wright

15,000 to 20,000 rounds?? I'm impressed. Just how many shots do you fire per year??

Jim G
 
15,000 to 20,000 rounds?? I'm impressed. Just how many shots do you fire per year??

Jim G
At my peak, around 10,000 rounds per year. I shot this through many different revolvers, so one didn't get to too high a round count. My log book stands at over a quarter million rounds of centerfire ammunition.

But, admittedly, since covid and the loss of my wife, its been nearly one year since I last busted a cap. Maybe soon...............

Bob Wright
 
At my peak, around 10,000 rounds per year. I shot this through many different revolvers, so one didn't get to too high a round count. My log book stands at over a quarter million rounds of centerfire ammunition.

But, admittedly, since covid and the loss of my wife, its been nearly one year since I last busted a cap. Maybe soon...............

Bob Wright

I too am sorry for your loss Bob.
I'm sure some trigger time this spring will help. Sounds like a good time to load up some BP cartridges and try some aroma therapy.
 
Wish I'd known about the Belt Mountain pins when I had one of those silly two groove basepin guns.
Read, someplace, that SAAs came with a screwdriver, because all the many screws holding it together have a habit of coming loose.
If it's not true, it should be, because I retighten the ones in my replicas. A lot.
A good set of Brownells' screwdrivers is money well spent.
BTW, Locktite doesn't always work, and sometimes it works too well.
Moon
 
Wish I'd known about the Belt Mountain pins when I had one of those silly two groove basepin guns.
Read, someplace, that SAAs came with a screwdriver, because all the many screws holding it together have a habit of coming loose.
If it's not true, it should be, because I retighten the ones in my replicas. A lot.
A good set of Brownells' screwdrivers is money well spent.
BTW, Locktite doesn't always work, and sometimes it works too well.
Moon

Yes I have heard and read the same thing, repeatedly, about Peacemakers liking to loosen their screws. Now that I have the Grace gun screwdriver set (7 screwdrivers!) with their wonderfully ergonomic wooden handles, I am hopefully equipped to keep the revolvers "in one piece".

Jim G
 
I’m not sure I’ve seen anyone find so many “problems” with their new gun. Maybe single actions are not really your thing
 
My Blackhawk from the late 70's must have just recently gotten to the 15k-20K round count. I can tell that it's time to replace the little button and spring that release the cylinder base pin. I'll probably order a new pin while I'm at it.
 
I’m not sure I’ve seen anyone find so many “problems” with their new gun. Maybe single actions are not really your thing

Maybe. BUT, to shoot CAS, I need to have them. It's core to that sport. So, I identify the things about them that are not wonderful, and see if I can eliminate those things or at least minimize them.

You have to admit I think that a design that has a screw critical to the operation of the firearm "secured" in such a way that it routinely loosens and falls out if not caught in time, and that facilitates installing it in either of 2 ways, one of which won't allow the handgun to fire, is a bit daft.

Jim G
 
I’m not sure I’ve seen anyone find so many “problems” with their new gun. Maybe single actions are not really your thing

Seems to me the OP is intrigued by his new revolvers and interested in learning about the history, quirks, and use of them. And getting good information on this forum as usual. I've probably posted similar questions about new-to-me firearms that I'm not familiar with. He's been polite with his responses and is getting the information he's asked for.
 
Seems to me the OP is intrigued by his new revolvers and interested in learning about the history, quirks, and use of them. And getting good information on this forum as usual. I've probably posted similar questions about new-to-me firearms that I'm not familiar with. He's been polite with his responses and is getting the information he's asked for.

You are right on about my being intrigued. These 2 revolvers have turned out to be far more interesting, in both good and not good ways, than the S&W Schofields I used 25 years ago.

The Schofields were very fast to reload in comparison of course. You could see why a gunfighter or outlaw would chose one becuase of that. But they were also more complicated to clean and maintain, and never felt "nimble" - they seemed to have their weight further forward, even though one of mine was the short barredled "Pinkerton" model. They also "looked mean" comapred to a Peacemaker, which somehow seems appropriate. An important point was: Both shot to POA for me. Never had to address a POI versus POA issue. Another important point: They did not try to lose parts while being fired.

The Peacemakers ARE a challenge for me on POI versus POA. It's also annoying to have to constantly check that clyinder retention screw, and I fear that someday, probably during a competitive match, I'll be focused enough on the match that I might forget to retighten the screws on both revolvers. I DID foget during my second range session recently, and so at one point one of the reolvers would not cock for the 3 rd shot of a 5-shot stage. I had to carefully lower the revolver, quicly diagnose why (Unseated primer or ?), re-insert the cylinder pin which had moved far enough forward to jam the clyinder carefully back into the correct 1st, not 2nd groove position, and then rethread the screw into the frame. If that had happened at a match, that stage would have been a score disaster. And if one of the screws actually falls out onto the ground, good luck finding it in a match setting. And that rounded-forward grip shape coupled with the absence of any "beavertail" allows the gun to roll on recoil more than I would like, so I have to grip HARD to prevent the rolling and the otherwise minor hammer bite that results.

But, the Peacemaker reloading sequence is actually slow but not unpleasant when you get used to it. The tactile feel of the clyinder indexing is wonderful.The Peacemaker replicas both FEEL wonderful in my hands versus the Schofields or modern S&Ws or even the high quality costly Freedom Arms revolvers. They seem so LIGHT and so pointable. The aesthetics are also WAY superior to any other revolver I have owned or seen, and seriously, probably better than ANY handgun or rifle I have owned or seen. And, when I add the aesthetics, quality, and feel of the Mernickle "CAS high performance" holster rig to the aesthetics and feel of the Peacemakers, I am truly smitten. I think I'm in love.

So, I need to get them to shoot POA, whether that means different handloads, changes to the sighting system, or a special shooting technique not required on any other of my firearms. I THNK it will be worth it.

Jim G
 
I grew up with a Single Six. Shooting 1873's and Rugers is very natural for me.

Like many others, my grip is slightly loose, and I let it roll up with the recoil a bit.

For me, shooting them that way feels like I'm working with the handgun, instead of against it.

YMMV
 
I grew up with a Single Six. Shooting 1873's and Rugers is very natural for me.

Like many others, my grip is slightly loose, and I let it roll up with the recoil a bit.

For me, shooting them that way feels like I'm working with the handgun, instead of against it.

YMMV

When you allow the handgun to roll up on recoil, re-cocking, re-establishing proper shooting grip, and re-aiming are each delayed. In Cowboy Action Shooting, which is why I bought these 2 revolvers, there are no "single" shots. It's all fast sequences of multiple shots. Letting the handgun roll up with the recoil is a notable negative, as it slows down your shooting rate, and speed is the highest priority in competitive CAS because the targets are large. When you watch videos of the top shooters, the time between shots is incredibly low. You don't have time between shots to do all that "correction".

This is why a number of responders to my other thread (about my groups being about 2.5 inches left of POA) are telling me to not worry about the leftward POI. The targets are large enough to make POI = POA not as important as shooting the strings QUICKLY. To shoot quickly, you cannot let the handgun get out of proepr grip position.

But it is not in my nature to accept a POI that is not very close to POA. I view that as a deficiency in either the handgun or the shooter that should be corrected.
Jim G
 
Then quit watching videos. In two threads you've had umpteen replies from the folks you asked for advice. So get out and practice.

I WOULD get out to practice, IF it was warmer than -9C = 15F and we had not just gotten yet ANOTHER 5 inches of snow onto the UNplowed outdoor range facility that got 8 inches LAST week! I now have 12 .357 Mag snap caps on order, but they are coming from The U.S. so the ETA is about March 17. :)

Well at least that gives me time to practice my TIG welding in the meantime!

Jim G
 
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