jgray
Member
I would tend to think it's a shadow. Notice the same appearance on the edge of the rammer.
jgray
jgray
The RUGER OLD ARMY Club
- Thread starter ClemBert
- Start date
Wild Tom Hipshot
Member
SUMIKITO, yes I think you are right. I have now measured the gap and it is .01". I don´t know how big this gap has to be on a BP Revolver. On a smokeless on I think it should be between .004" - .008". If you or another person on this forum knows the gap size I would be greatful if you could tell me.
SUMIKITO
Member
Correct cylinder-barrel gap on a ROA.........
Hi there Wild Tom Hipshot, to be frank and honest, I would not really know what the correct or should we say, optimum gap should be on an Old Army. I have seen them with such tight gaps and tolerances to rival S&W .38 target revolvers and Colt Pytons, revolver standards for precision shooting. Some Old Armys I have seen have had gaps unthinkable in modern centerfire revolvers. What I have witnessed is the larger gaps seem to go a longer way before they gum-up and require a good brushing and cleaning to freewheel the cylinder again, more so when using pure black. We of course all know that a tight gap aids in accuracy and consistent velocity from shot to shot. If your pistol is more accurate than you are, I would just leave it alone. If you do compete in 'Bullseye' competition measuring cloverleaves with a caliper, then a tighter gap may, just may, be in order. Some of the more experienced shooters here, and this forum is gifted with those folks, with extensive knowledge on this subject who have had custom work done on their pistols may want to advise you further. You have a very well done and machined pistol there Hip Shot, shoot it with pride. Again, all the very best to you.
Hi there Wild Tom Hipshot, to be frank and honest, I would not really know what the correct or should we say, optimum gap should be on an Old Army. I have seen them with such tight gaps and tolerances to rival S&W .38 target revolvers and Colt Pytons, revolver standards for precision shooting. Some Old Armys I have seen have had gaps unthinkable in modern centerfire revolvers. What I have witnessed is the larger gaps seem to go a longer way before they gum-up and require a good brushing and cleaning to freewheel the cylinder again, more so when using pure black. We of course all know that a tight gap aids in accuracy and consistent velocity from shot to shot. If your pistol is more accurate than you are, I would just leave it alone. If you do compete in 'Bullseye' competition measuring cloverleaves with a caliper, then a tighter gap may, just may, be in order. Some of the more experienced shooters here, and this forum is gifted with those folks, with extensive knowledge on this subject who have had custom work done on their pistols may want to advise you further. You have a very well done and machined pistol there Hip Shot, shoot it with pride. Again, all the very best to you.
This is my pair.
They shoot great.
http://s813.photobucket.com/user/ncpapaul/media/KDOldArmyPair.jpg.html
They shoot great.
http://s813.photobucket.com/user/ncpapaul/media/KDOldArmyPair.jpg.html
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Patocazador
Member
kendak: Are the grips on the top gun factory or are they aftermarket? I love them.
SUMIKITO
Member
Nice wooden grips on kendaks pistol......
As Patocazador just mentioned, those are some nice Altamont grips on one of kendaks pistols. Actually, Altamont does make Rugers fancy wood grips today including the fancy white pearl/faux ivory grips Ruger supplies as aftermarket 'factory' accesories. Before that, it was Lett who made Rugers fancy wood grips. Lett seems to have gone kaput over the rainbow and along with Ajax grips is a 'no moh' in todays market. Altamont has a nice website and does sell to individual shooters. Nice products. Made right here in the good ole' U.S.A. Check them out guys.
As Patocazador just mentioned, those are some nice Altamont grips on one of kendaks pistols. Actually, Altamont does make Rugers fancy wood grips today including the fancy white pearl/faux ivory grips Ruger supplies as aftermarket 'factory' accesories. Before that, it was Lett who made Rugers fancy wood grips. Lett seems to have gone kaput over the rainbow and along with Ajax grips is a 'no moh' in todays market. Altamont has a nice website and does sell to individual shooters. Nice products. Made right here in the good ole' U.S.A. Check them out guys.
Like these? Went shooting today with my blued and stainless ROAs, got bored at the cleaning bench and decided to do a "mix and match" with the cylinders, got the grips off Gunbroker, i thought they were Ruger factory, guess not. Thanks Sumikito.
SUMIKITO
Member
Another two-tone hybrid! Davepools version! .........
This thing about combining ROA parts to come out with great looking two-tones is kinda catching considering what you can do with the ROA to make it "Tuxedo-like pretty" Now that version of Davepool looks like it is going to a formal affair! Shoot it with white gloves Davepool! Show 'em who's boss! Nice gun.
This thing about combining ROA parts to come out with great looking two-tones is kinda catching considering what you can do with the ROA to make it "Tuxedo-like pretty" Now that version of Davepool looks like it is going to a formal affair! Shoot it with white gloves Davepool! Show 'em who's boss!
Nice gun.pardiniman
Member
Bit by BP bug
I found a ROA in blue at a pawn shop and for $340 and it had rust in the cylinders and bore the backstrap had the blue off the aluminum frame. I offer $315 out the door and they wouldn't take it,BOY am I glad. I found this sweety for $60 bucks more and it came with a holster.I found out the holster (lefthanded)is rare as Bianchi made 170,000 and only 17,000 were LH. I don't need the holster so that will be up for sale.
I found a ROA in blue at a pawn shop and for $340 and it had rust in the cylinders and bore the backstrap had the blue off the aluminum frame. I offer $315 out the door and they wouldn't take it,BOY am I glad
. I found this sweety for $60 bucks more and it came with a holster.I found out the holster (lefthanded)is rare as Bianchi made 170,000 and only 17,000 were LH. I don't need the holster so that will be up for sale.Attachments
Patocazador
Member
Lucky you. I always find deals on guns I don't need .. or want.I found a ROA in blue at a pawn shop and for $340 and it had rust in the cylinders and bore the backstrap had the blue off the aluminum frame. I offer $315 out the door and they wouldn't take it,BOY am I glad
Which pawn shop if I may ask? ... Pat's?
pardiniman
Member
AAA pawn 1859 S Woodland Blvd DeLand, FL 32720
It's probabily still there and if you are looking, they also have a 7.5 stainless with the faux ivory handles (pretty gun ) for $499.99. I thought about it but I really didn't know if it was a good deal. I figured if I struck-out on my bid on Gunbroker I had a fall back gun
It's probabily still there and if you are looking, they also have a 7.5 stainless with the faux ivory handles (pretty gun ) for $499.99. I thought about it but I really didn't know if it was a good deal. I figured if I struck-out on my bid on Gunbroker I had a fall back gun
Patocazador
Member
Thanks.
I tried to deal with them on a Browning 1910 model 2 years ago. It was an exercise in futility.
I tried to deal with them on a Browning 1910 model 2 years ago. It was an exercise in futility.
SUMIKITO
Member
Nice find ......
You did well Pardiniman, nice pistol AND holster! Welcome!
You did well Pardiniman, nice pistol AND holster! Welcome!
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16. philuk44 17. HUnter58 18. arcticap 19. BullRunBear 20. theotherwaldo
21. SC Slowhand 22. Prairie Dawg 23. wittzo 24. Tallbald 25. Smokin_Gun
26. OB One 27. jungle 28. plumbernater 29. daveinvegas 30. JanZ
31. George Mabry 32. Benmathes 33. Loosenock 34. higene 35. Rock Island
36. Erich 37. robhof 38. J-Bar 39. Nomad, 2nd 40. TAURUSBOB
41. martindl99 42. Vermonter 43. wasatch 44. fogg64 45. BConklin
46. Howdy Doody 47. bushrod2 48. rdstrain49 49. FirinFlatTop 50. rem1858
51. straight-shooter 52. edorfox 53. KevininPa 54. Ringo1234 55. pohill
56. The Don 57. jeepcoma 58. Dave Markowitz 59. Chazz 60. andrewstorm
61. Steel Wheels 62. Legionnaire 63. NineMilePete 64. 94RUGER 65. Acorn Mush
66. R.Ganister 67. Boom-stick 68. Buddy 69. Ghost Dog 70. BML
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Thoughts on barrel shortening
Hi Gents!
I finally shot my old army for the 2nd time in the months since I've gotten it. Did not have any problems with crud gumming up cylinder rotation. Thanks for your advice, especially the hint about tilting the gun slightly between shots to help clear the spent caps. I did have a bit of "ball slip" however and the balls would creep out of the cylinders after 3 shots, preventing cylinder rotation. I read somewhere on Al Gore's amazing internet that some of the cylinders may have had the cylinder faces finished after reaming, thus leaving a burr around the cylinder openings that sized down the ball slightly. It feels like mine had a little of this, so I carefully worked it down with a soft dremel stone in my drill press... yikes, we'll see if that worked.
Two things I've thought about doing to my ROA are adding a conversion cylinder, and having a good gunsmith such as Dave Clements shorten the barrel for me down to 5.5 or 6" and installing a taller front sight. Since Ruger made 5.5" versions, maybe this isn't that big of a travesty. I'm wondering what your thoughts are on barrel length...I'd love to have a more portable pistol that balances better, but will incur at least $250 cost for this. I don't want to shop around for the 5.5" versions, since I'd like to retain my adjustable sights. A gentleman on youtube posted projectile tests for the ROA, and his velocities from the 5.5 barrel were only about 50 fps slower than 7.5" if I remember correctly. Anyway, thanks for your thoughts!
Hi Gents!
I finally shot my old army for the 2nd time in the months since I've gotten it. Did not have any problems with crud gumming up cylinder rotation. Thanks for your advice, especially the hint about tilting the gun slightly between shots to help clear the spent caps. I did have a bit of "ball slip" however and the balls would creep out of the cylinders after 3 shots, preventing cylinder rotation. I read somewhere on Al Gore's amazing internet that some of the cylinders may have had the cylinder faces finished after reaming, thus leaving a burr around the cylinder openings that sized down the ball slightly. It feels like mine had a little of this, so I carefully worked it down with a soft dremel stone in my drill press... yikes, we'll see if that worked.
Two things I've thought about doing to my ROA are adding a conversion cylinder, and having a good gunsmith such as Dave Clements shorten the barrel for me down to 5.5 or 6" and installing a taller front sight. Since Ruger made 5.5" versions, maybe this isn't that big of a travesty. I'm wondering what your thoughts are on barrel length...I'd love to have a more portable pistol that balances better, but will incur at least $250 cost for this. I don't want to shop around for the 5.5" versions, since I'd like to retain my adjustable sights. A gentleman on youtube posted projectile tests for the ROA, and his velocities from the 5.5 barrel were only about 50 fps slower than 7.5" if I remember correctly. Anyway, thanks for your thoughts!
pardiniman
Member
I have a Left Hand Bianchi Ruger Old Army Holster that came with the Old Army I purchased and since I'M right handed I can't use it. I need to get enough Posts to qualify for use of the for sale section. I need to know what to ask ,One of the suggestion was to ask people on the forum for information as to value if one was not sure. "Brillant" Who would know better then all of you Old Army Club Members.I have checked on Gunbrokers and they have some for Blackhawks but none for Old army
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Attachments
white smoke
Member
You might do what I often do. Put it on fleabay for $1.00 starting price. What it closes for in a week is pretty much what it's worth. Just a thought.
Patocazador
Member
You may have the bullets moving because they are undersize. The ROA uses .457 diameter balls/bullets. It should seem too large when you try to load the proper size bullet. the cylinder will shave a ring of lead off the bullet if they are the correct size. This 'wedges' the bullets in the cylinder so they should stay put during firing. You must use almost pure lead bullets for this to work properly.
I found that the individual chambers in my original equipment cylinder were not uniform with some being .002-.003" different from others.
You can cut a piece of flat stock 1/8th" thick and shape it up for your replacement front sight. Then cold blue it and pin it in but if you're going to send it to a gunsmith anyway, it would be better to let him do it.
SUMIKITO
Member
Balls inching forward !!! OOPS!
bri1462 : You have to use .457 balls and bullets as patocazador pointed out. Listen to the guys who have been there, done that, and so on. Heck, you can fool around with different size balls and bullets, but that's info coming from guys you don't want to muck around with, like in Al Gores' internet posters, all Nobel prize winners too, who will post anything and everything just to add to their post count. Geez. A MUST is a nice lead ring being pushed out/forced out of your cylinder bore upon ramming. This insures a superior seal and 'holding tension' immune from recoil on your ball/bullet seating and you won't have the problem with balls/bullets inching forward AND jamming your cylinder rotation. [Others have tried slightly smaller or bigger sized projectiles, but that's for another discussion]. Stay with 'The Standard' soft lead balls like Speer and Hornady in .457 size and life will be good. Balls sticking out of the Old Army upon firing in a public range is downright indecent! Hope this helps. All the very best to you.
bri1462 : You have to use .457 balls and bullets as patocazador pointed out. Listen to the guys who have been there, done that, and so on. Heck, you can fool around with different size balls and bullets, but that's info coming from guys you don't want to muck around with, like in Al Gores' internet posters, all Nobel prize winners too, who will post anything and everything just to add to their post count. Geez. A MUST is a nice lead ring being pushed out/forced out of your cylinder bore upon ramming. This insures a superior seal and 'holding tension' immune from recoil on your ball/bullet seating and you won't have the problem with balls/bullets inching forward AND jamming your cylinder rotation. [Others have tried slightly smaller or bigger sized projectiles, but that's for another discussion]. Stay with 'The Standard' soft lead balls like Speer and Hornady in .457 size and life will be good. Balls sticking out of the Old Army upon firing in a public range is downright indecent!
Hope this helps. All the very best to you.
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pardiniman
Member
452 wad cutters
Would any one know what the bore dimenions are between the lands and between the grooves of an Old Army. I'm wondering if the wadcutter .452x 185 grain lead ACP would be shootable in the ROA or if I should have a friend there to take me to the hosiptal if I try then.
Would any one know what the bore dimenions are between the lands and between the grooves of an Old Army. I'm wondering if the wadcutter .452x 185 grain lead ACP would be shootable in the ROA or if I should have a friend there to take me to the hosiptal if I try then.
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