The Yarborough vs. The A.T.A.K

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Blain

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Anyone know anything about or have any opinion on this knife? Saw it for sale at a knife store in the mall for like $350 today. Supposed to be the strongest and best utility knife available. Does anyone have one or know about them? How do they compare to the ATAK knives?

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What would be the best and most durable knife for survival?
 
The CR knives are known for quality manufature and excellent design. These 7" and 5.5" models shoudl be no exception. The MD ATAK has a devoted following. If you're asking would either brand do for a hard use knife I think the answer is yes. These CR knives are less expensive and stainless. The MD uses chromed tool steel that can/will rust unless cared for (and can rust under the plating). I don't subsribe to an ultimate/best knife theory. If it were me, I'd buy the CR knife and be very happy.
 
In handling both I like the Yarborough better simply because of the way it handles. The A.T.A.K. is an awesome knife as well, one of the most durable I can think of while still being able to cut well (unlike Striders IMHO). In general I prefer carbon over stainless any day, but I like the design of the Yarborough much better. I guess it is up to you which one will be...THE ULTIMATE! :D
 
Why do you like carbon better than SS if carbon can rust? Any peticular reason? I am not a knife person so I am not all too familar with the steel types and such.
 
If properly heat treated and quenched carbon steels can be stronger, tougher, more resiliant, better edge holding than comperable "stainless" steels at a lower material price.

That said, modern rust resistant, a better description than stainless, steels can and do perform at the limits of reasonable, and even unreasonable, knife use. This makes the argument of which steel is best for hard field use little more valuable than which American car manufacturer made the best muscle car.

Having had the ATAK, which I realy liked, and just handled the CR I'd take the CR over the ATAK now-a-days.
 
Saw it for sale at a knife store in the mall for like $350 today.
If you do an internet search, you should be able to find the 7 in. Green Beret/Yarborough for $299 or less, and the 5.5 in. model for even less.

The only two complaints that I've ever read (online) about the GB is that some people don't like the exposed tang. They all mentioned that they wish the grips were flush all the way around. While other people keep talking about how they don't care for the 1.5 inches of serrations, and that they wished that Chris left them off, or how they would have preferred to have the option of a non-serrated blade.

Personally, if I had the money, I'd buy the GB in a heartbeat. :evil:
 
I noticed that many places sell the 5.5" blade for only $10 or so less than the 7" bladed one. Why is that? Is there THAT much of an advantage for the 7" blade? Is there any benifet to the 5" blade? Does the shorter blade make it stronger/give it more tensile strength?
 
Honestly, if you're "not that much of a knife person" you'll be happier if you buy neither. Get a decent Becker or a Ka-Bar and don't worry about the ATAK or a Reeve knife until you find yourself dissatisfied with your choice for some reason.

A non-knife nut will never know the difference. It's not necessarily that these knives aren't worth the money, but there is a point of diminishing returns especially for someone who is not pushing the knife to its limits.

I almost built a new computer with a 3.0 Ghz P4, hyper-threading, a gig of dual-channel DDR400 memory, and other assorted bells and whistles--but what's the point? A hardcore gamer has a use for that, but I surf the internet on dial-up. I could be using Windows 95 and get along fine.
So I sold the parts I'd bought and used 'em to pay for my membership at a gun club. By buying the ability to practice any day I want at more ranges and in more weather, I got a lot more for my money than if I'd bought the bling.

I do consider myself a "knife person," but I haven't laid out the money for a Mad Dog or a Chris Reeve yet.


Now, if you're bound and determined to do it, I'd take the Reeve because IMHO you're getting a more useful design for less money, and the stainless will help you take good care of it.

People prefer carbon because it's easier to make a truly good blade (hard enough, without being too hard, to be springy, yet cut well, yet hold an edge, yet be easy to sharpen, yet etc. etc.) It is possible to do that with modern stainless steels as well, since they've changed a lot from the stainless that was available even twenty years ago, but it's much more complicated for the smith. That is not an issue with Chris Reeve.

What few have mentioned here is attitude. I find Mr. Reeve's attitude vastly easier to deal with than Mr. McClung's. I remember Mr. McClung telling a Bladeforums member (back in the day) named Nam Viet Vo that he was barred for life from purchasing Mad Dog knives, to the point that Mad Dog dealers would be instructed not to sell to him. Vo's crime? He had taken one of his many Mad Dog knives and cut off the handle, then rounded the tang and drilled it and built a folder out of it! You may or may not be aware that the words "folding knife" send Mad Dog into a rage--folders are "not tactical," dontcha know. He does not make folders for any price, but after all, Vo had paid for the knife and he owned it. If he wanted to make an insanely expensive folder that would perform pretty much like any other folder, it was his business to my mind.
Maybe Mr. McClung was kidding, but I doubt it.

So, again, were I rich I'd have a Panther and an ATAK, but since I'm not rich, I don't. If you're not rich, think twice. If you think twice and you still want one, go ahead and get it, but you may as well resign yourself. If you've got it that bad, you're addicted and there will be no escape.
 
Interesting, just ONE more question. Why don't people like serrated edges on their survival knives? Arn't they useful?
 
Serrations - some like them some don't. Fine work - carving or whittling are best done with plain edges. Serrations seem to be best at cutting fiberous materials (rope, etc.). Serrations are harder to sharpen.
 
FYI - that's a 5.5" Green Beret knife pictured above. I personally prefer the 7" model.

CRK > MDK but the above poster is correct - most people would be better served with a Becker 7 or 9.
 
Chris Reeve will sell the same version of any of his knives to anybody with the money. No LEO-only or Active Military-only B.S. Buy the Reeve.

Does that Mad Dog fellow have a LEO active military policy? I didn't see anything about that on his site. Too bad if he's an elitist, some of his stuff looks nice.

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So this is the best survival type knife, right? If you could only have one item in the wilderness, it would be this knife?
 
If you could only have one item in the wilderness, it would be this knife?

Nah. If I was picking a "survival knife", it would be something along the lines of a Swamp Rat Battle Rat/Camp Tramp, a Trace Rinaldi Armageddon/SKS, any Strider, or something from Jerry Busse.. :D
 
I have an old Swedish hunter that does everything I need in the woods. It has a decent sized blade, very good stainless steel, is wide enough to cut well but narrow enough to filet, and comfortable. It was also dirt cheap so I won't have to eat a gun if I lose it in the woods someday.

Your needs may vary.
 
strongest and best

Blain! What you're NOT GETTING, is that most of us are reluctant to use such superlatives. It's like asking what the "best" (or ULTIMATE, for that matter) "gun" is.

What we can say, are statements such as "I think x model is one of the best buys in a camp knife around," which is high praise without claiming any ridiculous corner on truth. What is "best" will vary for everyone, so what is "best" for me (a large, heavy 5160 blade) in a camp knife will not be what is "best" for everyone else.

THERE IS NO BEST! None! There are great, strong, sharp, well-made, durable, well-designed, well-executed, incredibly tough, beautiful, ugly, resistant, but ABSOLUTELY NO BEST.

Thank you.

John
 
Even best camp knife camp knife can vary depending on the tast.
The Cold Steel "Bird and Trout" can be the "Best" if your prepping food for the spit... or hatchet is "Best" if your prepping kindling for the fire.
JShirley is absolutely right... there is no "Best". Get over it.
 
What situation are you in? How would you be using the knife? What are you looking for in a survival knife? Find some answers to these questions before dropping $350 on a knife that will be used exactly the way the $35 knife would.
 
Bringing this one back to life, What no -one has mentioned (Sorry if I missed it) the fact that you are going to wait 2 years for a Mad Dog or else pay a serious premium, buying 1 on e-bay or elsewhere
Mad Dogs are great knives but $$$ I think an ATAK II will run over $400 new which would pay for the CR as well as a Cold Steel SRK and possibly even a Becker 7 or 9 as well PLUS you can have all 3 TODAY
I collect knives and have both the Green Beret and an ATAK
Chris Reeve did a beautiful job with this knife I especially appreciate the way CR rounded off the edges of the tang to make the grip very comfortable
That said, I still prefer the ATAK II's grip for me it feels good and the knife moves well in my hand and Mad Dog is the king of kydex so the sheath category goes to him as well
So what do I take camping/hunting?
My old, Cold Steel Recon tanto
Why?
because I've used it for years but mainly because I don't care what I do to it and I'm not going to be suicidal if I break or lose it. Its a reliable beater
I took a Randall out on a hog-hunt years ago and wasted too much worry about damaging it to enjoy it
So, get what you want use what you want and have fun with it
 
i have two mad dog knives...

To me, the main advantage over the mad dog line over chris reeves knives are that the mad dog handles would be less likely to conduct an electric shock if one were to accidently cut into a live wire.

The Mad Dog serrations aren't really that helpful chisel ground as the two were that I purchased (atak2 and dsu2). I found them to be for versatile when softer edges (wavy) instead of chisel ground sharpening styles were used.

Also, Mad Dog does seem somewhat egotistically represented on the net...engrave your inititials on the blade, test the knife, etc and warranties aren't really honored. There's quite a write up on a TUSK breaking 2 times if someone were to search for it.

I have several Chris Reeves knives and carry daily a project 2 on my warbelt here in Iraq. It has been very functional and not pampered. It's opened cans and t rats as well as mre's and cut the banding off of pallets. It isn't shaving sharp but it's good to go with the edge that's on it now.

Knowing what I do know, I probably wouldn't have purchased the MDK's - but I own 2 and will keep them. A tougher knife would've probably been a Busse. I also own a satin jack and it's a very nice knife.

Like others have said, it's hard to beat a camillus or k-bar "k-bar". But if you just want a nice quality knife - it's very hard to beat a Chris Reeve.

V/R,

LW
 
You can do what I did and buy a Becker Brute (109.00)for heavy cutting chores, and a Cold Steel SRK(69.00) for food prep./medium chores, I then put both of the sheaths together and mounted them on my Camelback Motherlode pack.

The reasoning for buying a big knife like this is to replace something heavier, in my case a Tomahawk that served me well for many years in the Adirondacks.

PS I carry a Leatherman wave (79.00) for all the rest of my general cutting needs and a Wyoming knife (20.00)for gutting/dressing animals.

Put all those knives together and you're around what you'll pay for just one of the aforementioned knives. Total (277.00)
 
Heh. Check out this month's Concealed Carry Magazine... I guess it's easy to know how to prod someone who makes a lot of noise. ;) (Re the "Ultimate Untacticallity of Knives that Fold")

I'd love to have a Chris Reeve knife. I don't think most folks would appreciate it enough, though, and I'm not quite sure I'm at the point where I would, either. Someday.

John
 
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