Tisas 9mm 1911 feeding issues.

[Mot45acp]

When mine has the the problem, it isnt because the ramp is too short, its because its there. The ramp catches the nose of the round and instead of guiding it up into the chamber, it goes down, and causes the stoppage.

I use the same mags in both my Colt and Tisas, and with the Colt, the rounds dont nose dive at all, and hit the lower edge of the barrel and straight into the chamber, with very little deflection.

I should get an idea here this morning if tweaking the extractor has changed anything. Seems like it did with some proving rounds, but that's not shooting the gun.

The other thing that kind of bugs me is, OAL. OAL shouldnt matter, and the gun should feed anything with a proper bullet, within the rounds acceptable OAL. I shouldnt have to fiddle with and tweak that. I expect all my ammo to work in all my guns chambered for it. If that is the issue, then the gun is gone just for that reason.

This is my story too, only substitute Colt with Dan Wesson. My rounds nose dive almost perpendicular into the feed ramp. The rims do not come in contact with the extractor.

Mine is the commander with rail. I did not expect Dan Wesson performance, but I did expect a functional firearm. My purpose for this was a beater woods/camping/play gun so I'm not beating the hell out of my Dan Wesson Specialist Commander.

 

[Steve in Allentown]

When mine has the the problem, it isn't because the ramp is too short, its because its there.

What is the angle of the ramp?

The angle of many ramped barrels is very steep causing feeding problems. Once the angle is corrected the feeding issues go away but in the process of correcting the angle the chamber no longer provides the full case support that everyone thinks is a must-have.

In my opinion, ramped barrels in 1911s are a solution in search of a problem.

Rather than protecting an aluminum frame ramp using a ramped barrel I'd rather add a steel frame insert to a standard configuration.

I use the same mags in both my Colt and Tisas, and with the Colt, the rounds don't nose dive at all . . .

Colt is a standard frame and barrel configuration while the Tisas is a ramped barrel set up.

 

[trackskippy]

No idea as to the angle of the ramp, but it looks pretty steep. Im kind of surprised it would work at all.

I had a problem with my Kimber Ulta Carry that had an aluminum frame. The steel followers in the mags were tearing its ramp up. Plastic followers solved that. They didnt do squat for the rest of the guns problems though.

 

[trackskippy]

Just got back from the range a bit ago, and it looks like I am onto something with the extractor.

Shot 100 rounds of my reloads, and only had three mags balk at loading from the slide stop. Two of those three would load from slingshotting the slide. The third one wouldnt load either way.

I downloaded all three to 8, and they all loaded from the slide stop.

The double feed malfunction seems to have gone away. I did have one stovepipe, but Im attributing that to my reloads, as thats not all that unusual.

Ejected brass was in more or less the same spot, and not as scattered as before.

At this point, Im just going to replace the extractor and probably just load 8 rounds in the mags for now.


As far as the slide stop release vs slingshot, it almost seems like, from the slide stop, it wants more power to drive the round the right way up the ramp. It just seems to more reliably feed with the slingshot, and the gun functions fine, for the most part anyway, once youre shooting.

Not sure if a heavier recoil spring would make a difference there or not.

 

[Skylerbone]

What is the angle of the ramp?

The angle of many ramped barrels is very steep causing feeding problems. Once the angle is corrected the feeding issues go away but in the process of correcting the angle the chamber no longer provides the full case support that everyone thinks is a must-have.

Agreed 100%

In my opinion, ramped barrels in 1911s are a solution in search of a problem.

Agreed 90%. I understand the “in 1911s” as the qualifier here but then how similar are many modern ramped barrel pistols to the 1911 which function beautifully with a ramp. So without dismissing the ramp as a potential negative, I will say if you buy a ramped barrel then choose your manufacturer wisely.

Now, back to the issue; I would continue to massage the current extractor rather than replacing, as any you chose to try ought to be tuned for best results (meaning you’re likely to wind up at square 1 again).

Clean the extractor thoroughly, cycle some dummies, pull the extractor and have a close look at the underside.

There can be one instance where unlimited tuning will not completely fix things if the extractor length itself is too long. In that case you would need to shim it and re-cut for the FPS. If the FPS is loose in the extractor’s slot, a new FPS could potentially draw the hook back a small amount. But let’s not obsess too much on this last part until the OP knows what he knows with further testing.

Best of luck Skippy

 

[Steve in Allentown]

. . . how similar are many modern ramped barrel pistols to the 1911 which function beautifully with a ramp.

I would say that modern ramped barrel pistols have very different feed way design geometry compared to 1911s. Glocks are renowned for their 9mm feeding reliability.

. . . I will say if you buy a ramped barrel then choose your manufacturer wisely.

Absolutely. The ramped barrel that is closest to the right feed angle is the Nighthawk. I'd have to dig out my notes but I seem to recall it's 30 degrees or a touch more. Minimal work required to push it to 31 or a touch more.

I would continue to massage the current extractor rather than replacing . . .

Agreed. Practice working on the one you have first.

@trackskippy, this link may be of some value to you as you contemplate working on the extractor https://www.1911forum.com/threads/steve-in-allentown-extractor-fitting.829865/#post-10634041

 

[trackskippy]

Thanks boys, I appreciate the help, and the link!

 

[mljdeckard]

I would buy a Wilson Combat Bulletproof extractor, and have a pro tune it.

 

[trackskippy]

Im just treating this gun as a project gun, until its beyond my skillset anyway. If I let someone else do it, I won't learn anything.

This isn't the first 1911 extractor Ive fooled with. I did OK getting them tuned using the channel in the slide in the past, but it just seems to be a bit of a PITA, hit or miss, and a lot of fiddling. I went ahead and ordered one of the tools specifically for it to see if I can get more fiddling for more $$$. Thats usually how it works for me when I get sucked into this stuff.

 

[Steve in Allentown]

If I let someone else do it, I won't learn anything.

I like your attitude.

I went ahead and ordered one of the tools specifically for it to see if I can get more fiddling for more $$$.

Let me guess. Did you get a Weigand extractor tension gauge?

I suggest you read the extractor fitting link that I put in post #31 above.

 

[Tallball]

I just slingshot everything now. It gives the slide just a little more energy, and I've never heard of it causing problems.

 

[trackskippy]

Just an update here on a couple of things here.

I ordered a couple of recoil springs from Wolff. They say the factory weight for the 9mm is 14#, so I ordered a 14# and a 15#, and installed the 15#, just to see if its would be too much. It wasnt. Its noticeably heavier when you retract the slide, and when I shoot, the empties are falling a bit closer, maybe 5 feet or so away. Function seems more positive, both in function and when I drop the slide with the slide stop too.

I did get and install a new extractor and Ive been continuing to tune it each time Ive been out. Ive been using the tool I ordered and started with their recommended setting and been cranking it down 1/2 turn each time, and Im on the third adjustment. At this point, I think I might have it where it needs to be. I also tweaked the extractor a bit from the link Steve provided and polished things up a bit as well.

Ive also been hitting the ramp on the barrel with Mothers polish as Im cleaning the gun. Nothing crazy, just some on a patch and rubbing with my finger. One thing I noticed right off there was, when I ran some proving rounds through the gun, the nose dives started dropping off and seemed to be happening less.

I just now got back from the range with it, and fired 50 rounds through the gun. 5 full mags and one with 5 rounds in it. I just randomly grabbed 6 mags out of the pile and loaded them up. Every one of them loaded smoothly and without issue from the slide stop. I didnt have any double feeds while shooting this time around either. All the empties fell into a pretty consistent group of about 3-4' or so, with a couple of outliers.

Keeping my fingers crossed here, but I think it might be coming around.

Im not convinced yet that the MecGar mags arent some of the issue here too. What Im seeing a lot of times, when I drop the mag to clear things is, a loose round follows the mag out of the gun. Some of the mags while loading them will let a round pop out if its not firmly seated. Im thinking this isnt good and might be how I got that loaded round double feed that one time. I havent had another, but I don't see how else it might have happened.

I was looking at some of the other mags that have been recommended, but Im not spending $35-$50 a mag on a gun thats never going to be used for anything but fooling around at the range.

 

[Steve in Allentown]

Im not convinced yet that the MecGar mags arent some of the issue here too. What Im seeing a lot of times, when I drop the mag to clear things is, a loose round follows the mag out of the gun. Some of the mags while loading them will let a round pop out if its not firmly seated.

The loose round was the last round in the mag. When the slide cycled backwards after the previous round was fired the magazine lost control of the last round and inertia took over. By the time the slide came forward that round was no longer in the magazine so the mag follower was pushed up and engaged the slide locking it open.

The solution is a new magazine spring or a new magazine. I hear you concerning the cost of the high-end mags (Tripp, McCormick, Wilson). I have this Mec-Gar mag and have not yet experienced an inertia feed with it. You may want to give this Check-Mate mag a try.

Whenever I replace a mag spring I use Tripp springs. You'll have to figure out which one you should use for your particular magazine or call to ask their advice.

 

[GooseGestapo]

I’m the OP.
Update: I’ve concluded it’s the magazine. I further polished the ramp to match a S&W M1911 Performance Ctr Pro 9mm I have. I used the S&W magazine (10rd) and a Wilson 10rd magazine that fed flawlessly. Also, I have some Metalform and older Meggar mags. (9shots). The Meggar’s work, the Metalforms all jam with more than 6rds.

What’s hilarious is that the Tisas shoots waaay more accurate than the S&W which has a deeep throat on the chamber..... too bad the Tisas barrel won’t fit in the S&W slide! (Yeah, I tried!).

The S&W is the “looker” though!