To trim or not to trim?

To trim or not to trim?

  • Trim that crimp

  • Keep it long

  • Go read your reloading manual


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FreeIndeed

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I have 30 pieces of once fired Barnes factory ammo brass that I want to reload. 30-06 Springfield. This brass has the remains of a factory crimp that I’m not happy with. Not happy because I believe the old crimp will cause inconsistent neck tension, and poor consistency at the range, even after resizing. So either I accept this fault and reload as it is, or I trim the factory crimp off.
If I trim it, the neck length will likely end up at .310” which falls well below the published trim to length, but will still meet or exceed the “no shorter than one caliber” axiom.
Any thoughts or experiences either way?
 
Find your chamber neck length, trim to allow slight clearance there (= or > 5thou), and trim your brass accordingly.
 
No way I'd trim just to remove a factory crimp mark, but I would trim for consistent length.

The bit of mark that remains after you size and chamfer doesn't matter enough to measure. If you were shooting small enough groups to notice, you'd already be using weight-sorted Lapua or other premium brass.
 
Find your chamber neck length, trim to allow slight clearance there (= or > 5thou), and trim your brass accordingly.
That sounds like a great idea to keep the brass in sync with the actual chamber. My brass is still relatively short, not actually needing to be trimmed yet.
 
No way I'd trim just to remove a factory crimp mark, but I would trim for consistent length.

The bit of mark that remains after you size and chamfer doesn't matter enough to measure. If you were shooting small enough groups to notice, you'd already be using weight-sorted Lapua or other premium brass.
I think at this stage in my shooting career, my own abilities are a far bigger limiting factor than any problems caused by the factory crimp. I’m probably just focussing on a minor issue here. I don’t know how big a deal to make of neck tension as I start to develop a load for this rifle, chalk it up to inexperience. Thanks for your thoughts.
 
I'd cut them to trim length, regardless of what vestiges of crimp remain.
After sizing, crimp imprints are just a cosmetic issue (IMHO) and nothing to fret over.
My sizing die will be the one that comes with the Lee Loader, don’t laugh. I’m presently waiting for it in the mail. But my understanding is that it is only a neck sizing tool and that it doesn’t have an inner mandrel to shape the inside of the neck but only squishes down the outside. This makes me think it’ll make the imprints of the crimp worse on the inside of the neck. It’s probably not the best brass to get started reloading with but it’s what I’ve got and I just want to do the best I can with it. Thanks for your thoughts.
 
The sizing/neck expanding step will nullify any significant perceived issue you are talking about. 30-06 doesn't really need crimped in most applications, anyway. I see no issue.

This being said, I have some 30-06 that got trimmed quite a bit too too much because of a migrating 'stop' on the trimmer... well below the published minimum. They work just fine. (Deer Hunting Rifle)

If you were shooting benchrest competition where every 0.1" is a mile... you'd probably be shooting Lapua brass, and be taking 10 min to load each round. If you're loading hunting rounds... and 30-06 is just that, I wouldn't worry one second about it.

And THAT being said, if you don't want that 'compromised' brass, I'm sure there is someone here that would pay the shipping to take it off your hands. :)

Good Luck
 
My sizing die will be the one that comes with the Lee Loader, don’t laugh. I’m presently waiting for it in the mail. But my understanding is that it is only a neck sizing tool and that it doesn’t have an inner mandrel to shape the inside of the neck but only squishes down the outside. This makes me think it’ll make the imprints of the crimp worse on the inside of the neck. It’s probably not the best brass to get started reloading with but it’s what I’ve got and I just want to do the best I can with it. Thanks for your thoughts.
That tool neck sizes. You will remove any issue when you properly chamfer the neck. Neck tension is important but also a rabbit hole. The best and easiest way is to annealing with a torch. There are many more expensive options. Then how you size and expand can be another bottomless pit. Start with the chamfer tool and test. If your results are good enough stop there. If you need more, upgrading to a standard die would be your next step.
 
The first question I have is how long is your fired case?
30-06 trim to length is 2.484". Max are length 2.494".

If this brass has not yet been sized, you dont actually have the fired case overall length established yet.
I'm not sure what you mean about the .310 number. Did you take that measurement from the mouth to the base of the neck or is that ID of case mouth?

Your sizing die will iron out the crimp once you run it, and believe me, the neck will stretch a little bit.
The case OAL after sizing would be the important number right off the bat
Then trim if ya have to back to 2.484.....you probably get a few loads before you have to again.
As stated above....depending on application, the 06 really don't need a crimp
 
The first question I have is how long is your fired case?
30-06 trim to length is 2.484". Max are length 2.494".

If this brass has not yet been sized, you dont actually have the fired case overall length established yet.
I'm not sure what you mean about the .310 number. Did you take that measurement from the mouth to the base of the neck or is that ID of case mouth?

Your sizing die will iron out the crimp once you run it, and believe me, the neck will stretch a little bit.
The case OAL after sizing would be the important number right off the bat
Then trim if ya have to back to 2.484.....you probably get a few loads before you have to again.
As stated above....depending on application, the 06 really don't need a crimp
The Lee loader isn't going to grow the case much.
 
IMO you are majoring in minors. The crop will one out when you resize the brass. Then just load it up with your favorite favorite recipe.

Good luck on your hunt.
 
How about a picture of the brass? Based on what you are saying you would have to remove about .090 to remove the crimp. That is an unbelievable amount of material for any type of crimp. Have not used Barnes factory ammo , so, cannot say what you actually have going on. Until brass is sized you cannot tell anything.
 
@FreeIndeed, welcome to THR!
I’ve seen factory crimps like you mention, I think it was RP or Win, rectangular bars on the circumference around the neck. I wasn’t sure at the time what the deal was but it probably has to do with an easier/cheaper manufacturing process to crimp than a roll crimp. I’ve reloaded them and didn’t see any difference in my hunting loads. Annealing them would probably be the best and I will probably do that on the next turn of the crank. Good luck.
 
My sizing die will be the one that comes with the Lee Loader, don’t laugh. I’m presently waiting for it in the mail. But my understanding is that it is only a neck sizing tool and that it doesn’t have an inner mandrel to shape the inside of the neck but only squishes down the outside. This makes me think it’ll make the imprints of the crimp worse on the inside of the neck. It’s probably not the best brass to get started reloading with but it’s what I’ve got and I just want to do the best I can with it. Thanks for your thoughts.
Did that brass get fired in YOUR rifle?
Is it a bolt action rifle (not a semi-auto)?
If you didn't answer yes to both of those questions then the Lee Loader isn't the correct tool for the job.
I love collecting Lee Loaders.
C9850D89-35E0-48F7-BA4E-F4686E4A018B.jpeg
 
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I think at this stage in my shooting career, my own abilities are a far bigger limiting factor than any problems caused by the factory crimp. I’m probably just focussing on a minor issue here. I don’t know how big a deal to make of neck tension as I start to develop a load for this rifle, chalk it up to inexperience. Thanks for your thoughts.

If you are really worried about it, use them for sighters or for fouling your barrel and save the good loads for actual accuracy work.
 
The sizing/neck expanding step will nullify any significant perceived issue you are talking about. 30-06 doesn't really need crimped in most applications, anyway. I see no issue.

This being said, I have some 30-06 that got trimmed quite a bit too too much because of a migrating 'stop' on the trimmer... well below the published minimum. They work just fine. (Deer Hunting Rifle)

If you were shooting benchrest competition where every 0.1" is a mile... you'd probably be shooting Lapua brass, and be taking 10 min to load each round. If you're loading hunting rounds... and 30-06 is just that, I wouldn't worry one second about it.

And THAT being said, if you don't want that 'compromised' brass, I'm sure there is someone here that would pay the shipping to take it off your hands. :)

Good Luck
I’m starting to get the picture that the old crimp is not a big deal as I thought. I will definitely be keeping the brass. Thank you.
 
The first question I have is how long is your fired case?
30-06 trim to length is 2.484". Max are length 2.494".

If this brass has not yet been sized, you dont actually have the fired case overall length established yet.
I'm not sure what you mean about the .310 number. Did you take that measurement from the mouth to the base of the neck or is that ID of case mouth?

Your sizing die will iron out the crimp once you run it, and believe me, the neck will stretch a little bit.
The case OAL after sizing would be the important number right off the bat
Then trim if ya have to back to 2.484.....you probably get a few loads before you have to again.
As stated above....depending on application, the 06 really don't need a crimp
I measured a fired case at 2.4820 inches OAL. This is before sizing. The .310 number I mentioned is what I presume will be the neck to shoulder length after resizing and trimming away the crimped portion of the neck.
 
How about a picture of the brass? Based on what you are saying you would have to remove about .090 to remove the crimp. That is an unbelievable amount of material for any type of crimp. Have not used Barnes factory ammo , so, cannot say what you actually have going on. Until brass is sized you cannot tell anything.
I would have to remove approximately 60 thousandths to remove the crimp. Brass not resized yet.
 
@FreeIndeed, welcome to THR!
I’ve seen factory crimps like you mention, I think it was RP or Win, rectangular bars on the circumference around the neck. I wasn’t sure at the time what the deal was but it probably has to do with an easier/cheaper manufacturing process to crimp than a roll crimp. I’ve reloaded them and didn’t see any difference in my hunting loads. Annealing them would probably be the best and I will probably do that on the next turn of the crank. Good luck.
Yes, rectangular bars. Good to hear they didn’t affect your hunting loads.
 
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