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Trimming .45 ACP and crimping question

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disneyd

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Oct 17, 2006
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I've read several places that most people don't trim straight walled auto pistol brass.

If every case isn't the same length, how do you crimp (or de-bell) properly? Won't you end up with rounds that all have slightly more or less crimp because of variances in case length? Is it just too small a difference to matter?
 
For most shooting, it won't matter. If you're a 50 yard bullseye shooter, then it will matter.

I've never trimmed a .45 case, and I've loaded and shot thousands of them.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
Don't bother trimming them, it's not worth it.

More or less, you can shoot .45 brass until you lose it!
 
Unlike a revolver roll-crimp, the taper-crimp used on auto pistol cases is not so much length critical.

All you are really doing with a taper-crimp is straightening the case mouth back out straight.

The roll-crimp used on rimmed revolver cases and bottle-neck rifle ammo is a lot less foregiving if the length varies.

rcmodel
 
I started trimming my 45acp brass. Then I did a batch where I did not. It did not make a single bit of differance. I believe it is a waste of time unless you are shooting compatition.
 
I believe it is a waste of time if you are shooting competition.

Start out with one lot of brass all the same and you can't tell the difference in scores.

rcmodel
 
45ACP from a revolver

What about 45ACP from a revolver. Factory ammo seems to hang up when reloading with moon clips. I'm thinking adding a bit of a roll crimp would help prevent this for faster reloads. How would this effect pressure though? Anyone do it?
 
.45 ACP revolver ammo would benefit from a roll crimp.
Both due to easier / faster reloading with clips, and to prevent bullet pull from recoil.

Normal .45 ACP dies don't do roll crimps however.

You need a seating die for the .45 Auto-Rim to do a roll crimp.

rcmodel
 
I've always meant to buy a case trimmer, never got a round tuit.

I've been reloading CCI brass from Blazer Brass 230 fmj exclusively. Never trimmed a case.

I use the Lee 4 die deluxe set with a taper crimp of about .003". I get superb accuracy in my H&K USP .45.

Some day I'll get that trimmer (probably when I start reloading .22 Hornet)
 
More or less, you can shoot .45 brass until you lose it!
The 45acp rim can expand from firing many times with hot loads. Then as the round slides up the face of the bolt , it can cause drag and jams. Some 45's have tight bold faces. My S & W has lots of room, my 70 series Gold Cup does not. The brass fired in the s&w with maximum loads when used in the Colt caused the problem. Good rule, don't fire brass that was used in anothre gun, dont mix lots of brass.
 
RCBS 45acp carbide 3 die set (#18915) that is now made comes with a taper crimp built into the bullet seating die. If you want a roll crimp/bullet seating die, 1 die,not a set, its die #18942
 
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What about 45ACP from a revolver. Factory ammo seems to hang up when reloading with moon clips. I'm thinking adding a bit of a roll crimp would help prevent this for faster reloads. How would this effect pressure though? Anyone do it?
A heavy roll crimp can reduce velocity when loading light target loads in the 3.5 to 3.8 grs of bullseye range. Dont know about pressure.
 
Trimming .45 ACP and crimping question

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I've read several places that most people don't trim straight walled auto pistol brass.

If every case isn't the same length, how do you crimp (or de-bell) properly? Won't you end up with rounds that all have slightly more or less crimp because of variances in case length? Is it just too small a difference to matter?
I have never trimmed a 45acp case, But still check for over maximum length to be safe. If brass is from the same lot , overall , everything goes much better, accuracy, feeding, reloading. There can be a very big difference in wall thickness in brands of brass. In the end, does it matter, yes if your a bullseye shooter. If you just want the gun to go bang, then it dont mattter.
 
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