Trouble with .270 Win FL Dies

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To make up a 1/4" of "flex" would take more than 3 full turns of the die. That doesn't even qualify as a reloading press anymore.
 
There is also a VERY definite crimp visible on the part of the neck that has gone in

Then the part about the bush?

At most, the neck is only getting up about .200" into the bush at the top where it sizes down before the expander opens it up on the down-stroke

If the die is a full length sizing die there is no bush and I will assume you are talking about the part of the die that sizes the neck.

I would suggest we refer to the part that has the sizer plug and primer punch as the primer punch/sizer ball assemble.

I suggest your remove the primer punch/sizer ball assemble 'OR' loosen the jam/lock nut on the stem above the die and raise the assemble. It does not matter how much you raise it, but, raise it enough to get the assemble out of the way.

F. Guffey
 
I simply can't see how an improperly lubed piece of brass would bring it to an abrupt stop though, not without the brass getting stuck to some degree.

I know this sounds highly unlikely, but is it possible that you're mistakenly using the seating die?

Or the possibility that RCBS stamped that die as "RCBS 270 win FL 13 ", and it's actually a "RCBS 270 win Seat".

And it wouldn't be too hard to accidentally / unintentionally put the decapping assembly in the seating die by mistake.

The OP states that it's producing a very obvious crimp on the mouth, well the seating die would definitely do that, and the press would indeed come to an abrupt stop. I've actually done this once or twice, and it does exactly what the OP is describing, just saying.

GS
 
...and the winner is...

LUBE!!!

Yep. Took the dies and some shells in to the shop today and pleaded my case. They took them out the back and brought them back all beautifully resized.

They used imperial wax, applied on an RCBS pad. They were still pretty stiff, but they worked!

I came home and continued on with some more on my bench using the Hornady lube (as they told me it should be fine to continue with), only to get a case stuck after about 30 through the press.

A drill, an 8mm tap and bolt later and everything is all laid out on my bench waiting for tomorrow, when I'll go and get some proper wax lubricant.

The Hornady OneShot seems fine for all of my smaller cal stuff, but for the larger ones, I think I'll use something a little more serious.

Once again ladies and gents, huge thanks for helping me out with your suggestions on this one. I look forward to being able to return the favour some day.

Rob. :)
 
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I'm still bothered by the crimp that was produced. An improperly lubed case is not going to crimp the mouth. And the OP never stated anything about the brass getting stuck, yet now he has one every 30 or so getting stuck?

So I performed a little experiment with my RCBS FL die and seating die. I swapped the seating stem from the seating die, and the decapping assembly from the FL die, then tried to run brass through the seating die with the die adjusted to touch the shell holder, and guess what, it knocks the primer out, and crimps the mouth, and it stops the press cold?

BTW, if used properly, "One Shot" works just fine. After shaking the can, spray the brass, let dry completely, and then size it, never stuck a case in my life with any lube.

GS
 
BTW, if used properly, "One Shot" works just fine. After shaking the can, spray the brass, let dry completely, and then size it, never stuck a case in my life with any lube.

I lay my brass flat on a old cookie sheet, shake the can, then spray the cases from the front end of the brass so some of lube hits the inside of case mouth. I give the cookie sheet a slight shake just hard enough to cause the cases to rollover half a turn then give them another shot of lube.

The only time I have sticky brass is when I don't spray on enough lube by not using full length strokes when spraying it on.
 
RCBS Case Lube-2 Liquid & a pad work well. RCBS has said to not use "wax". RCBS spray has Hexane 92% http://www.rcbs.com/downloads/MSDS/RCBSCaseSlickSprayLube.pdf
Hazard Summary-Created in April 1992; Revised in January 2000
Hexane is used to extract edible oils from seeds and vegetables, as a special-use solvent, and as a cleaning agent. Acute (short-term) inhalation exposure of humans to high levels of hexane causes mild central nervous system (CNS) effects, including dizziness, giddiness, slight nausea, and headache. Chronic (long-term) exposure to hexane in air is associated with polyneuropathy in humans, with numbness in the extremities, muscular weakness, blurred vision, headache, and fatigue observed. Neurotoxic effects have also been exhibited in rats. No information is available on the carcinogenic effects of hexane in humans or animals. EPA has classified hexane as a Group D, not classifiable as to human carcinogenicity.
 
Hehe!

You want that fried, or roasted? ;)

Disclaimer: I cannot guarantee it will still be edible by the time it gets across the pond.

Thanks again for your help.
that's ok ,, lol, I was thinking lube on the first post , then you said you were using One Shot , I bit my lip , lots of One Shot fans ,on here , At least now you know how good Imperial wax is , and how to remove a stuck case , , I also like Redding lube and pad ,
 
Gamestalker, I think we're getting a little too hung-up on my apparent misuse of terminology, here.

When I said crimp, I was merely referring to the section of the neck that had been sized-down by the only partial insertion into the die. I didn't mean a crimp as in the type you get from a crimping die. That would require a crimping die.

243winxb is dead-on in his guess.

Rest easy.
 
Thanks for clearing that up for me, and for the following reason.

With a standard RCBS bottle neck die set, it is possible to install the decapping assembly in the seating die, and the seating stem assembly in the FL die. This is why I got so hung up on the crimp, as I thought maybe they had been assembled incorrectly.

GS
 
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