Redding FL 9MM Sizing Die

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I am asking a question for a friend that is brand new to reloading and having trouble setting up his resizing die. It is a Redding three die set #80172 and the sizing die is number 91172
He has followed the set up instructions and this is the result. I have searched here and the internet and Redding doesn't post instructions or diagrams that I can find.
Lubed the cases. Raised the ram with the shell holder in place. (No case in shell holder). Screwed the die in to touch the ram. Tightened as per instructions.
He is using a Lyman Ideal single stage press and has de-capped off press in a separate step.
As always- Thank you in advance for your help

2.jpg
 
If he has decapped in a seperate step, have him completely remove the decap assembly, then size one and see what it looks like.
 
This die does not appear to have a carbide resizing insert. Lube cases well and try again. I would recommend a traditional lube/pad method.
 
The head stamps are confirmed 9MM Luger. He has lubed the cased with a little and a lot of lube.
The die is clearly marked 9MM is it possible the die is incorrect? Is there another case similar that is necked down? The only case I can think of is a .357 Sig. I am guessing it is possible to fit a 9MM case into a .357 die.
 
Is it just the picture, or is there a sliver of brass just above the rim of the brass?

It’s got to be the picture. I’m the guy with the issue Ghost In The Fog posted about. Just signed up to the forum, and a first timer reloader. I’ve ran about 15 9mm Luger head stamped casings through the die in various configurations, with and with out the de-capping pin, light lube, heavy lube, etc with the same result. I’ve since written an email to Redding in hopes of some resolution. Also, I think the EO is actually E0, as in E Zero. Not sure if that changes anything for anybody... I appreciate the responses and help.
 
My thought is the die is marked incorrectly. Things do happen.

Measure the ID of the sizing die and compare with SAAMI specs on the 9mm Luger.

And welcome to the forum Iceman91!

chris

edit: the die may be marked incorrectly
 
It’s got to be the picture. I’m the guy with the issue Ghost In The Fog posted about. Just signed up to the forum, and a first timer reloader. I’ve ran about 15 9mm Luger head stamped casings through the die in various configurations, with and with out the de-capping pin, light lube, heavy lube, etc with the same result. I’ve since written an email to Redding in hopes of some resolution. Also, I think the EO is actually E0, as in E Zero. Not sure if that changes anything for anybody... I appreciate the responses and help.

Welcome aboard. When I first looked at the picture I was thinking wrong brass. There is a ton of experience on here. I'm sure someone has seen this before and can help.
 
Was brass fired in an unsupported chamber? If yes, brass may have a bulge. A bulge buster may be needed.

Measure the OD of the fired brass. Compare to SAAMI standards.

A carbide die will size the case body the same diameter , for its full length, i think?

edit NOTE: op has a STEEL sizing die. DIFFERENT.
 
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Was brass fired in an unsupported chamber? If yes, brass may have a bulge. A bulge buster may be needed.

Measure the OD of the fired brass. Compare to SAAMI standards.

A carbide die will size the case body the same diameter , for its full length, i think?

Measured a handful of them, .388 tapering to .377
 
Measurement before and after sizing?

Before is .388 to .377, after is .388 to .371. But the first pic of the thread is the result on all the brass I’ve run through the die, it creates almost a shoulder rather than straight taper. I’m thinking the die is the issue.
 
This die does not appear to have a carbide resizing insert. Lube cases well and try again. I would recommend a traditional lube/pad method.

Looking at the case rim condition, at first, it does look like there wasn't any lube. But, .370, wow, better call Redding. Did you almost not get that case out of the die? The part number matches up.

Ammunition Reloading Guide (redding-reloading.com) Double check everything. Here's a link using Redding dies.

So, the ram upstoke sizes down the brass while the downstroke pulls the expander ball/button back out of the neck and brings the ID of the mouth back to size which should be very close to .380. If you had the sizer stem out, put it back in and try again.
 
Didn’t have any problems with the upstroke or the downstroke, the sheen on the brass, I’m guess, is from it rubbing in the die. There was plenty of lube. Correct me if I’m wrong, but this die doesn’t have an expander ball, it appears. The recapping pin/rod is in the pic above, doesn’t look like a ball or have the width to even touch the brass. Again, first time reloader so not sure about anything at this point.
Looking at the case rim condition, at first, it does look like there wasn't any lube. But, .370, wow, better call Redding. Did you almost not get that case out of the die? The part number matches up.

Ammunition Reloading Guide (redding-reloading.com) Double check everything. Here's a link using Redding dies.

So, the ram upstoke sizes down the brass while the downstroke pulls the expander ball/button back out of the neck and brings the ID of the mouth back to size which should be very close to .380. If you had the sizer stem out, put it back in and try again.
 
Will give that shot tomorrow and let you know, thanks for the advice.
Set the die with a nickel coin between shell holder and die. . Shoulder should be less or go away. Check to see if sized brass will fit in barrel. What i would try.

9mm luger brass comes in many different forms. Some tapered. Some straight walled. Some even have a ridge/step inside tne case.
View attachment 970638 View attachment 970639
 
Looking at the case rim condition, at first, it does look like there wasn't any lube. But, .370, wow, better call Redding. Did you almost not get that case out of the die? The part number matches up.

Ammunition Reloading Guide (redding-reloading.com) Double check everything. Here's a link using Redding dies.

So, the ram upstoke sizes down the brass while the downstroke pulls the expander ball/button back out of the neck and brings the ID of the mouth back to size which should be very close to .380. If you had the sizer stem out, put it back in and try again.

I didn't say that very well. Let me try again. When a case is fired, it will expand to the size of the gun chamber and then spring back about .002. That's why we use brass - it spring back and doesn't stick in the chamber.A .355 bullet should just about fall into a fired case.

The full length sizer die does two things. The decrimp/expander button will be smaller than the fired case and will pass down into the case without touching the inside of the case wall on the downstroke of the press (case travels up into the die), but as the brass continues up into the die, the outside of the case will be compressed by the die back to a unfired size. The inside of the case at the mouth will now be smaller than the button on the deprime stem, and on the upstoke of the press (case comes out of the die) the button will expand the upper part of the case back to .355 ID or maybe a little less. This allows some neck tension on the bullet to keep it from moving in the case.

Mic the button above the deprime pin and see what size that is. It should be a little less than .355. That's all I got. Call Redding if this doesn't help.
 
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