Tru-Oil Liquid

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I'm anxious to shoot all my smoke poles and wheelguns of the BP flavor !! On the hunt now for some ffg to burn in the rifles.

Sure hope the repair holds. Got a lot of me invested in this little rifle. LOL Have a good hitch bud.
 
I have a question about tru-oil I have never used it before and am interested in tring to redo my inline stock.
1. Where can I buy it?
2. Do you stain the stock and then apply the tru oil or does the tru-oil darken the stock on its own?
Very curious about this.
 
BigBadGun

Whats an In-line :D Kidding .

Any sporting good shop that carrries guns will have it from Wallly World to your local Ma and Pa Sporting goods store .

It will tone your wood a little darker as is , but it works well with stains too . I use a water based Walnut natural stain and it works very good with it . I also have used other alcohol base and others like Min-Wax brand , works fine with them too . :D It looks real nice without stains too .

Cost is about $4.00 for a small bottle , will do several stocks easilly .

Das Jaeger
 
Jaeger
I got the inline very cheap as of now it is my only bp long gun but there is another gun show comming up in about 2 weeks or so.
Let me make sure I understand the application process.
Thin coats let dry and use 0000 steel wool tack cloth and apply again.
Repeat until desired finish is achived.
 
2. Do you stain the stock and then apply the tru oil or does the tru-oil darken the stock on its own?
Very curious about this.
Click to expand...

Bob, if you are at bare wood, you can wipe the stock with a damp cloth and that well show you the "color" that tru oil or tung oil well give you.
Any good hardware store should carry a large selection of different oil finishes. I would recommend the Frombys tung oil finish. Gives a nice water proof finish that is easy to touch up any dings or scratches. it's very easy to apply.
 
Alot of different choises out there as far as wood finishes.
I am looking for a nice rich medium color but when it is all said and done I want the wood to look wet. I can get the look with leather lol but wood might be different.
 
Jaegar, be sure you store the opened bottle upside down! otherwise it will skin over, then you break through the skin and start getting little chunks floating around then the whole bottle dries up.
 
Too Much!

Put on 1 DROP and stretch it out as far as you can on the stock, spread it as thin as possible, then apply another drop when that one runs out and do the same until the stock is covered. Don't drag around with it move on. For the final coat the spray can will work better, you can order it on line. I hear you can knock the shine back with the Birch Wood Casey stock sheen and conditioner if you like less gloss.
 
.45 T/C Cherokee Stock repair/refinish done

The dab of oil being rubbed in hard with the heel of the hand was just the ticket. :D

With the stock repaired and sanded down, grain filled with Tru-Oil and sanded down again... and then built back up again... I'm pleased with how the gun is looking. Especially with a good polishing of the metal work too. It's surprising how much "rust" color comes up onto the cloth when a good metal polish is applied to the blued barrel. Sure made a difference in the shine too. Of course... it does good things to the shiny brass bits too.

The knives in these pix were just tossed in for a little extra flavor. The wooden sheathed knife is a knife my late father handmade for me. The blade is a rusty old bastard file he found in a shed in the village of Kiana, AK. The sheath is birch wood from Kobuk, AK. The brass cap for the handle is an old outboard propeller nut he salvaged in Kotzebue. The handle is ivory and baleen which he shaped/fitted.

The other ivory handled knife is a production knife with an ivory handle made for it that was done by one of my cousins. I made him give me a price that he'd be willing to sell it for and bought it on the spot. I made the sheath for this one this passed winter. I added a welt to this one and instead of a saddle stitch, I did a lacing job on it called a Mexican Round (or, Basketweave). It takes 9' of lacing to do 1' of this pattern. And, was good practice before I did up a set of reins which had 8' in all of Mexican Round.

The third knife is one of my favorite skinning knives that I HATED the sheath design it came with... so, I made a new one from some scraps of leather, stamped out the design and added up the accent layer and concho. This one is lined inside with smooth leather for it to bed into... and is stitched with a saddle stitch.

StockKnives001.jpg

StockKnives002.jpg

StockKnives003.jpg

StockKnives004.jpg

StockKnives005.jpg

StockKnives006.jpg
 
Looks Good !

Looks great, you should be a photographer too , ooops , you are ! :D
Nice Job .

Hows things Ratfacedog68 ? Im'e back to harrass !

Should have bounty finished up in a day or two . :D

Das Jaeger , wheres them Cremudgeons anyway :neener:
 
Das Jaeger said:
Looks great, you should be a photographer too , ooops , you are ! :D
Nice Job .

Hows things Ratfacedog68 ? Im'e back to harrass !

Should have bounty finished up in a day or two . :D

Das Jaeger , wheres them Cremudgeons anyway :neener:
Click to expand...
Welcome back to the fray. :D Moi? Doin' just fine. Got me some drifts and a mallet... just tore down the old F&W and cleaned the caked on gunk that was inside of it for decades (before I acquired it). Took a few tries to get it back together without an exploded view... but, I got 'er done !!
 
Rat

yeh, I saw your pictures of that earlier, cool score , should be fun . :D
And now your a Gunsmith , yeehaaa :D Jump on in , the metals and woods is fine !

Jeager :)
 
Das Jaeger said:
yeh, I saw your pictures of that earlier, cool score , should be fun . :D
And now your a Gunsmith , yeehaaa :D Jump on in , the metals and woods is fine !

Jeager :)
Click to expand...
Ha... far from bein' a gunsmith ! But... enjoyin' bein' able to diggin' 'round inside 'em and cleanin' 'em... and, gettin' 'em back together without any extra pieces and things workin' correctly. :D
 
What !

Ratdog68 ,
your not supposed to have extra peices ? Whats you talkin a bout Willis ! :what:
Ok , so your not a liscenced gunsmith , ok , but you are gunsmithing , so thats good too :D I know allot of guys that are better than some liscenced Smiths and just hobby it up instead , so your good to go . :D
Heck , most people aint got enough gumshion to even bust one of these apart to see how she works , just to see how she works , so your farther ahead than most thats for sure .
:D

One day, you'll be the Single Action Guru here :D

Jaeger
 
Got myself off to a good start... snagged up a Brownell's magna tip starter set and a set of drifts and a mallet yesterday. Don't intend to get after 'em with regular type stuff. LOL
 
"Rutt ROhhh" Ratdog68

Scooby says :D
Now your gettin serious Ratdog68 :) . Gots ya some good drivers now , hmmm , whats next , some bags of charcoal and bones and a furnace ? :D
Better watch out Doug Turnbul , Ratdog is gettin on it ! :D
If you find the time and money , try some indiviual hollow ground drivers , not a tip changer set . You will find individual drivers have much better control on your screws with no slop like the tip changer sets tend to have or get after time used . The one you got is a good one though , not sayin its not , but give some goooooooo drivers a try sometime and see how you like them .
Its nice to see someone getting into this stuff as hard core as you are starting out . :D I am guessin your Bows are not getting the attention you used to give them , LOL !
There is a Twelve Step Program for this issue , and I DO NOT recommend it :D

Das Jaeger, Awsome !
 
I have used Tru-oil, but prefer Lin-Speed slightly. I want my stocks to be protected, but to look like wood, not like shiny formica, so I scrub them down with steel wool pretty good. After hunting on a wet day once, a stock I had finished with formby's tung oil, got cloudy whitish areas. It cleared up anfter a few days in the dry, but wasn't ever quite the same again. Never had that problem with Tru Oil or Lin Speed.

A buddy of mine still uses some old fashioned recipe that includes boiled lin seed oil, but the stuff takes weeks between coats to dry.
 
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