TULA Primers

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jsnake

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I could not resist the $17/K primers at the gunshow. Bought 2k SPP for trials. I have read (here and elsewhere) that seating may be tougher and likewise the root of many problems noted.

I loaded 100 rounds of various 9mm loads with my cast boolits as well as berry's bullets. Each round was visually inspected for primer seating as well as plunk tested in multiple barrels (glock and cz).

I don't see these as being any harder to seat using a Dillon Square Deal B.

I will shoot this afternoon and report back.

THE PRICE CANNOT BE BEAT!...

Stay tuned.
 
I've run through 5k Wolf and about 3500 Tulas so far in my stock G34 with no issues to report. It is an all stock trigger with no components ever replaced and probably somewhere around 20k pulls on it.

I gave a couple hundred to my buddy to try in his G34 with aftermarket trigger work (not sure what the complete list of mods is, but I know a lightened striker spring is one of them)... he had 4 out of the first 100 fail to light.

Therefore in stock triggered guns, I say fire away; if you have light competition trigger(s) I'd recommend a small trial first before buying in bulk.
 
Tula/Wolf are the same primer made by http://www.flame.murom.ru/en/default.htm in Russian. I personally haven't had any issues seating them in pistol or rifle case regardless of size.

They are a bit harder,if you have a weak firing pin spring or light striker or hammer spring you may get some FTF on occasion. My Ruger BH eats them like candy.
 
If you have any problem seating, just use a crimp remover or a 45 degree counter sink to radius the edge of the primer pocket. They will slide in like butter!
 
I've measured them with my calipers. The Tulammo SPP are actually smaller in diameter than CCI. And they're easier to seat, AFAIC. The cups are a little taller and softer, though, so you have to watch out with certain brass. Tight primer pockets can leave the primer dented/flattened before they'll seat all the way. Shallow/angle-bottomed primer pockets (some older Winchester 38 special brass I had comes to mind) can lead to full seating with the primers still protruding a hair past flush.

I have had a couple rounds where I accidentally primed too hard, and they didn't go off. When I removed and disassembled the primers, the priming compound wasn't visibly cracked. I think they didn't light because the flattend primer cups were 0.014" below flush. After that occurred, I've paid closer attention to priming pressure, and I contoured my priming tool to make it a little concave, so it spreads the force over more of the Tulammo SPP's super-curved priming cup.
 
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Happy to report all went bang. My CZ85 Combat has a 15lb hammer spring and they still all went off. My G19 had no problems as well

Average velocity with my standard 9mm load was within 2 - 4 fps. I think I will be buying a bunch in all sizes now ~25-30k.

Anyone have experience with the 209 primers?

Joe
 
Wolf/Tula, same thing different color box.

I've been using them several years not. Love their .223 primers. Don't see the need to buy CCI #41 primers at over twice the price yet the same performance and resistance to slam-fires.

Only "Big Name" primers I buy now are Bench Rest. All my other ammo gets Tula or Wolf, depending on the stock at my online Dealer.
 
Glad to read all of this!

I'm about to order 5k SPP & was hoping Tulas would work.

Thanks to all for posting!
 
I am glad others are having results similar to mine. With homebrew bullets, the cost savings is significant. More shooting for me. HA!
 
they're a bit harder than most. My witness elite gets a light primer strike about 1 out of 50 on my 9mm. My 357's got bang every time in my lightened springs marlin 1894 and my smith 686 revolver. I keep meaning to buy a longer firing pin pr heavier spring for the witness. But they're so much cheaper than other brands that I don't know that I will ever buy anything else.
 
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