Tuning the Extractor on a SA 1911 GI

[GarandOwner]

I have posted before about my 1911 GI having an eratic ejection pattern. It is annoying to have every few ejected cases hit me in the forehead. This has caused me to involentarily blink each time i fire. Hurting my accuracy. Many different tips were offered, so My question is WHERE to start . In other posts I have seen that adjusting the tension in the extractor can help this. How is this done, or is it so complicated I should just consider replacing the extractor? Secondly I was suggested to replace the ejector. Thirdly Replace the recoil spring with a 16 lb spring. And lastly to replace the firing pin stop. I am new to pistol shooting, so I do not see how the last two would help the ejection pattern move away from my face. Please suggest in which order I should try things rather than doing them all at once. Or if there is something not mentioned here

 

[steveracer]

To tune extractor...

step one: load another gun. (can't stress this enough)
Remove the slide first, then the barrel from the slide and place a live round under the extractor hook, right against the breech face. It should give you some resistance, but not so bad that you hurt your fingers sliding the round in place. This is where the round would be if the slide was closed and a round chambered.
Now, shake the slide. Yep, grab it and gently shake it all around. The live round should wiggle but not fall out easily. Then, push the round up with one finger, like your finger is the next round in the mag. It should pop the round out of the ejection port. If so, your extractor is not the problem. Sounds like the ejector is the problem to me, not the extractor.

Some of the GI models did not come with the ejector pinned in place, and therefore it wiggles a little, causing a strange ejection pattern. One casing off to the right, another to the face, another front and ten feet away, etc.
If this is the case, as I suspect it is, call SA. They are really terrific about stuff like this. They may have you send the gun to them, or maybe just the slide. It will likely come back running like a top. While it's away, you can get some more trigger time with your secondary carry gun.
Steve.

 

[1911Tuner]

Ejection Issues

This seems to be a fairly common problem with the GI Springfields. I've seen it in about half of the ones that I've been involved with...and the only cure is
to replace the ejector. I use a Brown extended type, with the nose trimmed
a little and reshaped to kick the brass out at 2 O'Clock.

 

[brickboy240]

I replaced my MIl-Specs extractor with a Wilson Bulletproof extractor. The part dropped right in and solved all my extraction problems. Other than replacing the magazines with Wilson units, this was the best money I have spent on the SA 1911.

My other two 1911 also wear Wilson Bulletproof extractors...problem solved!

- Brickboy240

 

[Murphster]

Here something I've saved. Hope it helps:

http://www.m1911.org/technic2.htm

 

[GarandOwner]

Few more questions for 1911tuner

Thanks for the help guys. I have decided to replace the Ejector. Now my new question, mainly for 1911Tuner is how do you shape the ejector to modify the ejection pattern? Are they ment to be modified or can they work right out of the box? and lastly would it be better to use a dremel tool or a hand file to shape the extractor. Also if anyone knows of any links that have some type of picture of how the end result should look, or a step by step on how to do this. I would apreciate it.

This last part is mainly for 1911tuner but if anyone else knows, feel free to chime in:

How much should I shave off the front of the ejector to get it right, is there any type of test I can do without having to fire the gun.
Secondly should the ejector be shaped at a simple angle like the one allready on the gun? or is it more involved?

 

[Rockstar]

Wouldn't bending your extractor and trying a few rounds make more sense than replacing the ejector? (Just as a first step)

 

[1911Tuner]

Ejector

GarandOwner,

To make the brass eject closer to 3 O'Clock, shape the underside to raise the point of impact on the brass. To make it eject closer to 12 o'Clock, shape the top to lower the impact point. To roll it at a rearward angle, put a light compound angle on the upper right corner. Light!

Rockstar,

Some of the ejectors that Springfield is using on their GI models often won't behave, no matter what ya do. I had one, and tried everything to get it to stop bonkin' me in the forehead...gave up and replaced it. Problem cured.

 

[GarandOwner]

Thanks again to everyone for their help. Now I have one final question. How do I replace the Ejector? I see it is held in by 2 pins. But seem to remember reading somewhere that it is also held on with some type of epoxy. I do not want to damage or break the ejector allready on there. And I dont think just "Going at it with a pair of pliers" is a good idea. So a step by step procedure would be helpful.