Now retired, it turns out both my Wife and I, I thought it was going to be mostly me, have been really enjoying returning to shooting. I'm setting up a new 650 Dillon, sold the 550, and the brass has been piling up. Well now she just went out and bought an ultrasonic cleaner. I guess I was taking too long with the corn cobs. Anyway, any advice on cleaning brass and gun parts that's not part of the printed directions? Right now please tell me the pitfalls of cleaning brass with spent primers. Since this is part of the progressive it seems a bit redundant. I know its a better method but a lot of this stuff is plinking. Thanks.
ultrasonic cleaner - advice?
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RainDodger
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I recently got an ultrasonic cleaner as well. It took me a while to fit it into my processes, but now that I have, I love it. Keep in mind... I'm retired too and I'm NOT in a hurry to do anything!
After I've sized, de-primed, trimmed and chamfered my brass, I run it through the tumbler for a while to remove the little lube that's left on it. I don't worry about walnut particles in the primer pockets. From the tumbler, the brass goes into the ultrasonic cleaner. I run mine for 15 minutes, stir it around with my fingers to move the brass around some, then run it for a final 15 minutes. Then I rinse and dry. I'm using the Hornady brass cleaning solution - it will last a long, long time. You can occasionally pour it carefully and separate out some of the uglier black bits of it and get a few more uses out of it. I keep it mixed in gallon bottles for ease of use.
The brass comes out of the cleaner looking virtually new, with clean primer pockets. After rinsing well, I dump them all into my food dehydrator... you know the Hornady "brass drier" that costs $59.95? Well, that SAME EXACT ONE is available on Amazon as a food dehydrator for $28. Works great. I run it in the dryer for a half hour and they're done.
Remember... I'm retired too and I'm not in a hurry, so this time doesn't bother me. I have most stuff set up with digital timers so I don't even have to watch them. They shut off when done.
As for cleaning mechanical parts, do a quick search online and you'll see that people use all kinds of stuff. Lots of guys use water, a tiny bit of vinegar and a tiny bit of dishwashing soap. You could mix most anything. I'm about to try some Slip2000 carbon cleaner mixed with water. I suspect it will work great.
Good luck and have fun. If I can help, let me know.
After I've sized, de-primed, trimmed and chamfered my brass, I run it through the tumbler for a while to remove the little lube that's left on it. I don't worry about walnut particles in the primer pockets. From the tumbler, the brass goes into the ultrasonic cleaner. I run mine for 15 minutes, stir it around with my fingers to move the brass around some, then run it for a final 15 minutes. Then I rinse and dry. I'm using the Hornady brass cleaning solution - it will last a long, long time. You can occasionally pour it carefully and separate out some of the uglier black bits of it and get a few more uses out of it. I keep it mixed in gallon bottles for ease of use.
The brass comes out of the cleaner looking virtually new, with clean primer pockets. After rinsing well, I dump them all into my food dehydrator... you know the Hornady "brass drier" that costs $59.95? Well, that SAME EXACT ONE is available on Amazon as a food dehydrator for $28. Works great. I run it in the dryer for a half hour and they're done.
Remember... I'm retired too and I'm not in a hurry, so this time doesn't bother me. I have most stuff set up with digital timers so I don't even have to watch them. They shut off when done.
As for cleaning mechanical parts, do a quick search online and you'll see that people use all kinds of stuff. Lots of guys use water, a tiny bit of vinegar and a tiny bit of dishwashing soap. You could mix most anything. I'm about to try some Slip2000 carbon cleaner mixed with water. I suspect it will work great.
Good luck and have fun. If I can help, let me know.
daboone
Member
I have a 72kHz 3 transducer, 11/2 gal unit. It cost a bundle. It can do brass very well but not in any serious quantity like a tumblers tumbler. However for guns and any parts, die, tools it is amazing. I use ALCONOX. It's a detergent used in labs. I also run this unit at about 120 to 150 degrees. Each new batch needs to be run for 10 minutes to remove microscopic bubbles of air trapped in water.
Sport45
Member
I have an ultrasonic cleaner, but don't use it for brass. It only takes an hour or so for the ground walnut to get brass clean enough and I'd spend more time than that drying the stuff if I used the ultrasonic.
I do use the ultrasonic for parts (including gun parts) cleaning. These go in a Zip-Lok bag with a solution of Simple Green and water. Then the bag is suspended in the ultrasonic's water bath. Nothing goes in the ultrasonic except plain old tap water. On occasion I've used Ed's Red in the baggie instead of the Simple Green.
I do use the ultrasonic for parts (including gun parts) cleaning. These go in a Zip-Lok bag with a solution of Simple Green and water. Then the bag is suspended in the ultrasonic's water bath. Nothing goes in the ultrasonic except plain old tap water. On occasion I've used Ed's Red in the baggie instead of the Simple Green.
goldpelican
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Never stick a blued gun part into the ultrasonic while it's got case cleaning solution in there! Ask me how I know 
Basically forgot that the Lemishine I use for cases is acidic - popped a blued part in at the end of the cycle to give it a quick clean, bye bye gun blue
Basic chemistry, just forgot in my haste to clean something. Use the right solution for the job at hand.
For cases - I deprime, ultrasonically clean, resize then vibratory tumble to polish/remove lubricant. The US cleaner keeps nasties out of the dies and the inevitable walnut dust.
Basically forgot that the Lemishine I use for cases is acidic - popped a blued part in at the end of the cycle to give it a quick clean, bye bye gun blue
Basic chemistry, just forgot in my haste to clean something. Use the right solution for the job at hand.
For cases - I deprime, ultrasonically clean, resize then vibratory tumble to polish/remove lubricant. The US cleaner keeps nasties out of the dies and the inevitable walnut dust.
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RainDodger
Member
I use only cold water for cleaning cases with the Hornady case cleaning solution. Works just fine.
RainDodger
Member
daboone... what mixture of alconox do you use? How much do you dilute it?
daboone
Member
Straight from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Alconox-Powdered-Precision-Cleaner-9-5pH/dp/B003FZAQ2Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458767728&sr=8-3&keywords=alconox+cleaner
I premix 2 tbs of this powder in a cup or 2 of water for my 1 1/2 gal tank.
I premix 2 tbs of this powder in a cup or 2 of water for my 1 1/2 gal tank.
I run my brass in treated Lyman media for 10 minutes in a tumbler with the auto-flow. The I decap. I toss in an Rcbs ultrasonic for 30 minutes. I dry it in the same tumbler with untreated media for 10 minutes and drain again. I resize with the recapping pin in place even though I used the decapper. Any media in the flash hole is removed. Done.
I save and reuse both medias and the solution this way.
I save and reuse both medias and the solution this way.
RainDodger
Member
Thanks!
I have been using an ultrasonic cleaner for brass for about 15 years now. I picked up a big industrial ultrasonic cleaner that holds about 4 gallons from a closing business way back when.
I just throw the dirty brass with the spent primer still attached in the ultrasonic cleaner for about 20 minutes at about 200 degrees F with either Dawn dish washing detergent or simple green. They both do a great job.
I usually tumble my loaded rounds in corn cob media for a few minutes after they have made their way through my 650. I have a lube die in the first station of my 650 so I tumble to remove the lube but it also makes them nice and pretty.
I use my ultrasonic cleaner for a lot more than just brass through, car parts do great, especially plastic parts. Fuel injectors also do great but it is best if you put an injector clip on the injector and actuate the injector with 12v while is is cleaning. Pans burnt on the stove... no problem. A pair of stinky running shoes come out looking new. A pile of oily tools fresh from working on the car will have their "grip" restored in a couple minutes in the ultrasonic cleaner. Plastic and stainless hand guns do great. So do military wooden stocks soaked with cosmoline. Any steel parts should be immediately blown off with a compressor and oiled. Parts come out so clean that rust can start in really fast. Ultrasonic cleaning is great prep for painting parts... works better than acetone in my opinion.
Ultrasonic cleaners are great!
I just throw the dirty brass with the spent primer still attached in the ultrasonic cleaner for about 20 minutes at about 200 degrees F with either Dawn dish washing detergent or simple green. They both do a great job.
I usually tumble my loaded rounds in corn cob media for a few minutes after they have made their way through my 650. I have a lube die in the first station of my 650 so I tumble to remove the lube but it also makes them nice and pretty.
I use my ultrasonic cleaner for a lot more than just brass through, car parts do great, especially plastic parts. Fuel injectors also do great but it is best if you put an injector clip on the injector and actuate the injector with 12v while is is cleaning. Pans burnt on the stove... no problem. A pair of stinky running shoes come out looking new. A pile of oily tools fresh from working on the car will have their "grip" restored in a couple minutes in the ultrasonic cleaner. Plastic and stainless hand guns do great. So do military wooden stocks soaked with cosmoline. Any steel parts should be immediately blown off with a compressor and oiled. Parts come out so clean that rust can start in really fast. Ultrasonic cleaning is great prep for painting parts... works better than acetone in my opinion.
Ultrasonic cleaners are great!
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Use hot water, a squirt or two of Dawn dish-washing detergent, and a teaspoon or two of citric acid. Should take about 15-20 minutes for cases to be totally clean. Only polish will be from the citric acid, so don't expect to get the "bling" of 6 hours under stainless steel pins.
If you clean cases with spent primers, water will fill the primer pocket and be hard to dry out. Best to simply make inspection, depriming, and sorting part of the job when you get back from the range. You can get a $25 Lee Reloading Press and Lee Universal Decapping Die. The press can also be used for bulge busting if you ever need to.
For firearms, I would only use approved steel cleaning solutions and follow up with ultrasonic lube (costs about $75/gallon). I am still leery as I seem to get rust faster than any one else.
If you clean cases with spent primers, water will fill the primer pocket and be hard to dry out. Best to simply make inspection, depriming, and sorting part of the job when you get back from the range. You can get a $25 Lee Reloading Press and Lee Universal Decapping Die. The press can also be used for bulge busting if you ever need to.
For firearms, I would only use approved steel cleaning solutions and follow up with ultrasonic lube (costs about $75/gallon). I am still leery as I seem to get rust faster than any one else.
Ultimate Brass Cleaning
I have given up on all the normal methods for cleaning brass. Why? Because there is a better way.
I bought an inexpensive rock tumbler at the local tool supply, filled it a third full of stainless tumbling media, topped it off with water and a 45apc case of detergent. Turn on the tumbler an disappear for three hours.
When I come back the brass looks brand spanking new inside and out.
It doesn't get better than that. My reloading friends are now doing the same thing.
BTW:the media doesn't wear out.
I have given up on all the normal methods for cleaning brass. Why? Because there is a better way.
I bought an inexpensive rock tumbler at the local tool supply, filled it a third full of stainless tumbling media, topped it off with water and a 45apc case of detergent. Turn on the tumbler an disappear for three hours.
When I come back the brass looks brand spanking new inside and out.
It doesn't get better than that. My reloading friends are now doing the same thing.
BTW:the media doesn't wear out.
I have given up on all the normal methods for cleaning brass. Why? Because there is a better way.
I bought an inexpensive rock tumbler at the local tool supply, filled it a third full of stainless tumbling media, topped it off with water and a 45apc case of detergent. Turn on the tumbler an disappear for three hours.
When I come back the brass looks brand spanking new inside and out.
It doesn't get better than that. My reloading friends are now doing the same thing.
BTW:the media doesn't wear out.
Exactly...
I can understand why people still use corncob and walnut but I have no idea why people even mess with ultrasonic anymore. Just tumble with SSTL media, and be done with it. I run my 9mm for 2-4 hours, depending on how dirty they are, and how full my drums are, and they are spotless when they come out. I think running 1800ish 9mm cases to spotless condition in less than 4 hours is pretty good results.
BCRider
Member
I use my US cleaner for my brass as well.
15 minute cycle time.
50°C for temperature
cleaning solution of 1:4 to 1:5 of cheap vinegar:water with a dash of liquid laundry detergent to aid in cutting any grease or oil on the brass.
Short cases such as 9mm and .45 come out clean as a whistle inside and out. Not "new" shiny like the SS pin guys are getting but certainly cleaner than is required and "new enough" looking. Long cases like the .38Spl and .357Mag will often have some slight smoky looking insides but are still clean enough with a very solid brass looking colour even inside. The outsides look sparkly in all cases.
All of these are with handgun brass with the spent primers still in place.
Rifle brass gets de-capped before cleaning with the same solution and at the same 50°C temperature. Removing the primers seems to encourage the cleaning inside to a greater degree. And certainly a 15 to 20 minute cycle time for the rifle brass has the inside as sparkly as the outside with none of the residual smoky look as the deep handgun brass might have in some cases. Primer pockets are generally clean as a whistle but the odd one will have a slight deposit remaining which I clean out with a primer pocket hand tool.
The brass receives a good repeated dunk, stir and drain for a couple or three repetitions to ensure no vinegar or detergent is left inside.
The downside to wet cleaning is the wait while it dries. This can be sped up to a great degree by warming in an old toaster oven or by drying it in a cheap food dehydrator. Wal-Mart sells such a dyhydrator. For my tastes I've been able to get by with being patient while it air dries out on an old bath towel for about 3 to 4 days minimum. Often it sits there for a week.
15 minute cycle time.
50°C for temperature
cleaning solution of 1:4 to 1:5 of cheap vinegar:water with a dash of liquid laundry detergent to aid in cutting any grease or oil on the brass.
Short cases such as 9mm and .45 come out clean as a whistle inside and out. Not "new" shiny like the SS pin guys are getting but certainly cleaner than is required and "new enough" looking. Long cases like the .38Spl and .357Mag will often have some slight smoky looking insides but are still clean enough with a very solid brass looking colour even inside. The outsides look sparkly in all cases.
All of these are with handgun brass with the spent primers still in place.
Rifle brass gets de-capped before cleaning with the same solution and at the same 50°C temperature. Removing the primers seems to encourage the cleaning inside to a greater degree. And certainly a 15 to 20 minute cycle time for the rifle brass has the inside as sparkly as the outside with none of the residual smoky look as the deep handgun brass might have in some cases. Primer pockets are generally clean as a whistle but the odd one will have a slight deposit remaining which I clean out with a primer pocket hand tool.
The brass receives a good repeated dunk, stir and drain for a couple or three repetitions to ensure no vinegar or detergent is left inside.
The downside to wet cleaning is the wait while it dries. This can be sped up to a great degree by warming in an old toaster oven or by drying it in a cheap food dehydrator. Wal-Mart sells such a dyhydrator. For my tastes I've been able to get by with being patient while it air dries out on an old bath towel for about 3 to 4 days minimum. Often it sits there for a week.
RainDodger
Member
As I posted earlie,r $28 for a dehydrator from Amazon. Works great! One half hour and your cases are dry. It's not even all that noisy, although my ears aren't what they used to be. I generally run them through the ultrasonic (30 min total), then the dryer (also 30 minutes). I run the drier when I'm not in the workshop so I don't have to hear it at all. After a half hour I dump them into a pan and they cool overnight.... they're pretty hot right out of the dryer.
Hey, it's down to $25 bucks now and free shipping! I tell you, it is EXACTLY the same as the Hornady one except the color. Right down to the mold marks on the plastic, the vents, screws and other various identifying factors. Find it here:
http://www.amazon.com/Nesco-FD-39P-...1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Hey, it's down to $25 bucks now and free shipping! I tell you, it is EXACTLY the same as the Hornady one except the color. Right down to the mold marks on the plastic, the vents, screws and other various identifying factors. Find it here:
http://www.amazon.com/Nesco-FD-39P-...1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
dragon813gt
Member
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- Jun 30, 2011
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- 1,137
That is a small number of cases and a lot of time. I use a cement mixer to tumble brass. I'm the opposite and don't understand why people mess w/ stainless pins and all types of different solutions. Having brass that looks brand new doesn't make it shoot better. I have more issues w/ brand new brass galling in dies. Actually it's only new brass so last thing I want to do is make the brass clean like new.
I do have an ultrasonic cleaner. I use it from time to time on rifle brass. I did some testing to see if clean primer pockets made for more accurate loads, it didn't. I use the ultrasonic for cleaning parts and tools more than anything else. But even then it's not used often.
goldpelican
Member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2015
- Messages
- 259
Wow, mine is like core gear I would never be without. Best thing for cleaning BP cylinders and nipples!
BCRider
Member
There IS another option I wish we could have. The powder used in Winclean ammo leaves the insides of the brass looking like BRAND NEW! If they sold the Winclean powder we'd never need to ever clean our brass.
But I'm guessing that it's too volatile or something that produces a very short shelf life if exposed to air or some such nonsense. I do know that it doesn't burn totally and leaves a lot of unburned greenish powder on the floor of the indoor ranges when used. I know it's unburned because we lit some to see if it was still active or not.
OK Raindodger, you've convinced me. I'm going to wander by Wally World tomorrow and pick up that same dryer that they sell there. A half hour or even an hour vs three or four days of natural drying sounds pretty tempting.
But I'm guessing that it's too volatile or something that produces a very short shelf life if exposed to air or some such nonsense. I do know that it doesn't burn totally and leaves a lot of unburned greenish powder on the floor of the indoor ranges when used. I know it's unburned because we lit some to see if it was still active or not.
OK Raindodger, you've convinced me. I'm going to wander by Wally World tomorrow and pick up that same dryer that they sell there. A half hour or even an hour vs three or four days of natural drying sounds pretty tempting.
RainDodger
Member
Ok, nobody has posted any pictures, so I guess I will. This is my brass, just out of the ultrasonic cleaner. Half of it is range brass - origin unknown. It was tumbled lightly before sizing, trimming, chamfering, etc. Then it was put in the ultrasonic cleaner with cold Hornady brass cleaning solution (40:1). Can't see primer pockets, but about 90% of them are totally clean and the other 10% are much cleaner than they get just tumbling.
I did the ultra thing on 50 AE shells / cases - they started sticking . I just tumble cases now w / lube and dryer sheet .
Problem went away when I put the dies in the ultra with WD 40 [ bough a gallon at Harbor freight ] Lots easier to use , but you need to wipe off excess .
FYI - I pour the wd 40 thru a coffee filter to clean - you will see rust that you did not see on dies .
Problem went away when I put the dies in the ultra with WD 40 [ bough a gallon at Harbor freight ] Lots easier to use , but you need to wipe off excess .
FYI - I pour the wd 40 thru a coffee filter to clean - you will see rust that you did not see on dies .
I could scale up that far as well, people do run cement mixers and steel pins. However, my "small" tumbler only takes up a "small" spot on a shelf. And 2-4 hours for 1800ish cases, spotless clean, is pretty fast. If I want them dry fast, 20 minutes in the oven at 200 degrees and they are ready to load. I know youre not seeing those results with dry tumbling in 2 hours. I loaded about 10000 rounds last year, so its not like Im a rookie here.
Ill agree, it doesnt shoot better. However, my press thanks me, I never have to clean it because of crap from dry tumbling, corncob, walnut, dirt, whatever. My dies thank me, they never get scratched. If you are worried that much about galling, then why arent you lubing? A shot of OneShot on pistol brass makes everything run better, wet or dry tumbled. Rifle brass all needs to be lubed as well before sizing, and I use homebrew lanolin for that. Primer pockets being clean do not make ammo shoot better, but it certainly does make primers easier to seat consistently on a progressive. SSTL tumbling also does one more thing you cant do with dry or ultrasonic, it will deburr brass after you trim to length, which saves a big step when prepping.
I own an ultrasonic and a dry tumbler as well. Just cheapies from Harbor Freight that I use for odd little things. Do they get used to clean brass? Nope. People need to get over their fear of wet tumbling. In the long run, its safer, faster, cleaner, easier and cheaper.
Removed broken link.
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RainDodger
Member
Whatever someone does with their brass is up to them. You guys are right that it doesn't shoot better. I only clean up my brass so it looks nice. That's the only reason. I have the time and enjoy producing a bright and shiny little thing. Perhaps I'm part Pack Rat, I dunno.
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