Use car wax on a firearm?

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lbmii

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I have a newly acquired like new in box 1985 made blued Ruger Speed Six 2 3/4 357 mag revolver that I am going to put into my concealed carry rotation.

I am considering using car wax on it to protect its' finish. Has anyone here done this?

In the Speed Six manual it recommends doing this but the recommendation is in the section concerning the stainless steel version. It is not clear if Ruger was recommending car wax for the blued version as well.

Seems like a good idea. Any thoughts or experience out there on this?
 
I use it as a release agent when I am glass bedding a stock, and I also use it on rifles that will be out in the rain. If it's a truck gun, or a beater, I'll use an artists paint-brush and using a paste, or liquid, car wax, I'll brush it on being sure to get it down into all the nooks & crannies. You don't have to wipe it off. I just leave it on for additional protection. I have found that when you handle the barrel the oils from your skin won't cause surface rust as the wax protects it.
 
I have heard of people and Museums and Collectors, using special Conservation Waxes usually used by Museums.

If using a Car Wax, make sure it is not the kind which contains rubbing compound also.

Just use a pure Wax of some kind.
 
Pay attention to the type of wax you use. Some brands blend mild abrasives into their waxes. Also I have had some brands allow immediate tarnish on the brass frames of the percussion arms I use wax on to preserve the polished brass. Some seem to have a bit of moisture blended in. I'd recommend a brand, but I usually end up studying labels when I have to get a can. I do recommend a paste wax though.
 
Yes I'll get the car wax out and give it a try. I'll take the wood grips off first.
 
Turtle wax is available almost anywhere and seems to work well for me in preventing moisture and hand prints from causing rust on the exposed parts of blued finish guns that I carry in the field. The stuff that has rubbing compound to remove the oxidized paint on car finishes should probably be avoided. There's no substitute for careful reading of the label on the product of your choice before purchase/application.
 
I just might have to try this out! Especially on the cylinder face where those carbon rings always appear and are a pain to clean. On my bottle of turtle wax however, it does warn it's combustible, I hope it doesn't mean my now super shiny revolver will burst into a ball of flame :evil:
 
I have always wondered what kind of wax I could use. I had heard of people doing this too. After reading everyone's comments, I know what I am going to get. Basically I need to choose the right type of wax. I am glad I found this thread!
 
I've also had excellent results with Johnson's Paste Wax. I use it on the blued surfaces on all my hunting guns. Also makes a great release agent.
 
I use Johnson's paste wax on the wood of my rifles. Never thought to use it on the metal. May have to try it.
 
I actually use a blend of a POS museum wax I bought, it was dried out and still sealed :(, cost me more to send it back, and J&J paste, and silicone turtle wax, goes on thick, takes a while to dry, but if I get around to rubbing it off, makes the blue verryyy shiny.
 
Johnson's paste wax should also be used generously inside the barrel channel and action inletting of a wood stock. It prevents the wood from absorbing moisture and changing point of impact.
 
quuote "I actually use a blend of a POS museum wax I bought, it was dried out and still sealed , cost me more to send it back"

I hope that wasn't Reniassance wax. Renaissance is a museum-quality wax. I use it on my guns. My musician friends use it on violins that cost as much as a house.
 
no, but guess I should just spend the money to get the stuff everybody else is buying and liking, and not try to see if the latest and greatest really, I looked at the johnsons floor paste that I have a few cans of (I used so much in my army career) and the ingredients are basically the same, the paste wax seem a great base to just cut other things into.
 
I use Johnson's Paste Wax inside and outside guns and also inside the stocks, under gripcap and buttplate.

I warm it until it turns into a liquid and use a 1" brush to appy it.

Also on rifles I use it out of the can and apply to the joints between the stock, barrel and action as to create a water seal.
 
Ya know I like the idea of wax on some of my firearms. I have an Urberti revolver carbine that would look awsome all waxed up and it would limit fingerprints. Going to give it a try.
 
I use a good paste wax, on my wooden stocks, also it works great on furniture. Instead of the junk that the grocery store sells like pledge. Try a good past wax on your furniture, it comes out looking and lasting better. It's funny because I just did half a dozen tables and the dining room chairs yesterday. Just make sure as mentioned that you are using plain wax, not an abrasive mix. Or you will do damage to fine wood. Simonize or Carnuba like Maguires seems to be the best. Make sure you read the ingredients as they all make several types. A "cleaner wax can also be usefull getting out stains or scratches but go slow if you are going to try that. I was able to remove stains from an old pistol stock in that manner
 
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Wax

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Bri-Wax It's spendy, but gentle and WELL worth it!.

Regards..........Andy


Right on, the best. Sometimes hard to find. Second choice for me is Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax or Gold Class Clear Coat Car Wax.
 
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