Using the Lee Factory Crimp Die

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Oh...I'm sorry Walkalong...Was I supposed to make a comment on post #4?:evil:

By the way...Just to stay on topic. I use two Lee FCD dies. One for .38 Special and one for .30-30...For these rounds I like them. I do agree with Walkalong that if you are feeling the resizing ring when you are crimping you need to figure out what you may be doing wrong in previous operations......

There...Ya happy now, Walkalong??:D
 
For me I have not found a need for the FCD or any die that post sizes, but I am a low volume reloader. My goal is to reload ammunition that is tailored to my firearms which allows me to shoot ammo that is more accurate than most factory stuff, If I where cranking out lots of rounds for the purpose of making noise I could see a place for such a die.
As Walkalong said, if you need to post size, something isn't right.
 
I asked earlier and want to again. Would somebody on this thread who loads .45acp load a cast bullet, and then run it through the Lee FCD. Pull the bullet and let us know what the outside diameter was before and after leading and using the FCD.

Take Care

Bob
 
Just went and pulled a rd down for ya. I use a Lyman .452 sizing die and they mike .4525 before loading. After loading and using the FCD the pulled bullet miked .451. There ya go. That amounts to 1 & 1/4 thousands per side.
 
BTW I had problems with rds chambering all the way with a Ed Brown barrel, called Lee and they suggested going to the FCD and haven't had a problem since.
 
Thanks, that is what I thought was happening. Given cast bullets should be one thousands over bore to ensure good sealing and reduce leading I fail to see the advantage of the die save and except to make the rounds look good. Beyond that is some guns the die would lead to increased leadig from gas cutting and less accuracy. Used in 9MM I suspect, given my experience with this round, accuracy would fall off considerably.

Take Care

Bob
 
Yep. The brass springs back, and the lead does not.

There are better solutions to making rounds that fit. I have loaded 1000's of .452 .45 bullets in .45 & .356 in 9MM with nary a problem. That was before the FCD was ever invented, by the way. :)

Who's juggling the smileys around? :scrutiny: - :D
 
Walkalong

Me too! I think using a FCD in 9MM would be a disaster. Friend in Vancouver has a High Power made in Argentina with a .358 bore. He complained about accuracy to me. I asked him what he was sizing his bullets at and he replied, "Why.355 just like the jacketed bullets you buy." He went to lead because he couldn't get factory ammo to work! Lead was no better.

After we talked he went searching for a bullet mold that cast out at .360. I wished him luck and suggested he might want to replace his barrel. In the long run might be cheaper.

I have yet to have a problem chambering my .45acp cartridges in any of my 1911's. Biggest problem I see at the range is guys not having removed the belling on their cases with the cartridges hanging up on the barrel hood, dirty chambers, cartridges to long and to much crimp. The latter can lead to bullet set back as to much crimp can result in a looser bullet, case fit as the brass springs out from the pressure of the crimp.

Take Care

Bob
 
I've been loading .45 ACP for a looooong time. I use a taper crimp die, and it produces reliable ammunition. I simply iron out the flare by feel, and that's all it takes.
 
" I simply iron out the flare by feel, and that's all it takes. "

Truer words have not been spoken. Applies to the 9MM and .40cal as well.

Take Care

Bob
 
I use the FCD w/ carbide ring for all my semi-auto rounds loaded with lead bullets. I size my bullets at least .001 over and sometimes more.
This can stop proper chambering if I don't use the FCD; BUT!!!, I never use hard cast bullets. My bullets are never over 11 BHN, I run max pressures and velocities and do not get leading in good barrels, also I do not mix jacketed and lead bullets without cleaning the previous bullet mat'l out of the bore. The soft bullets slug up to fit and this prevents gas cutting and erosion. I never use bevel base bullets.
 
"Bevel based" and "hard cast" are advertising scams aimed at getting people to pay premium prices for sub-standard pistol bullets.

For cast bullets, I like wheel weights. Don't quench them, drop them on a soft towel. If you get leading, soften them by pre-heating the oven to about 400 degrees and letting them "soak" for an hour -- they will be noticeably softer.
 
I agree wholeheartedly with the bb and hardcast terminology with the notable exception of microgroove rifling and extreme loads in 454,475 and such as those used in hunting thick skinned and heavy boned game. I simply cut my ww alloy by 50% by adding pure lead. Tried quenching years ago, not worth the time and trouble. Bevel based bullets of any formulation promote leading,IMHO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
There are indeed uses for hard-cast bullets -- but about 99% of handloaders use them for standard pistol cartridges, or reduced load rifle rounds, where hardness is a positive disadvantage.

Wouldn't if be great if bullet makers would offer us bullets graded by hardness matched to intended use?
 
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