vintage CVA mountain rifle drum clean out screw help

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sandy4570

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I just pick up decent condition CVA mountain rifle with barrel marked made in USA. The drum clean out screw is bust up pretty bad. My question is can I leave this alone ? what is other function of this part beside drain the water and cleaning solution off the drum . Is it sufficient to just remove the nipple and use blow dry to dry the air off the drum and put some Bore butter in there ?
 
You can live just fine without the clean out screw. i have seen a bunch of rifles messed up with guys trying to get rusted ones out and retapped for another screw. Those cast breech plugs can be tough to get redone. I think you have the right idea.
 
Leave it alone and just clean through muzzle and nipple. I speak from experience, I ruined my "Made in USA" barrel by trying to take apart and clean the breech plug. While you are not messing with the plug you are still playing with a part that is fitted at the factory and if messed up you would have to order a new barrel like me.:banghead:

I have a nice .50 cal "Made in USA barrel with no breech plug or bolster sitting in my garage, sure wish I could get those parts.
 
It is nice to clean the crud out of the breach.
The CVA posted in Gun rescue had that problem. I had replaced the screw for the previous owner. It took some penetrating oil and heat to vice grip the old one out. I replaced it with a hardware store SS hex mm. that I chucked in a drill, rounded, slotted then fire blued.
 
Clean out screws aren't needed really, other than for ease of cleaning. The 1863 Springfield rifled musket for example, first pattern had it, but patterns 2 and 3 (I believe) did away with it. If you can still get the nipple out you'll be fine.
 
It is nice to clean the crud out of the breach.
The CVA posted in Gun rescue had that problem. I had replaced the screw for the previous owner. It took some penetrating oil and heat to vice grip the old one out. I replaced it with a hardware store SS hex mm. that I chucked in a drill, rounded, slotted then fire blued.
t is nice to clean the crud out of the breach.
The CVA posted in Gun rescue had that problem. I had replaced the screw for the previous owner. It took some penetrating oil and heat to vice grip the old one out. I replaced it with a hardware store SS hex mm. that I chucked in a drill, rounded, slotted then fire blued.
I am interest in exact procedure .could you be kind to explain the step by step on this. The last time I ever remove any broken screw was from Springfield 03A3 front recoil lug but the vibration from the drill actually loosen up that screw. This one frozen solid and the screw head was strip .

As of right now I just got front sight and barrel wedge to replace those that were missing. I will take this to the range and see how she shoot. Probably going to leave this clean out screw alone and clean everything from the nipple .
 
Sandy

I f you do not have the experience best let a gunsmith do it.
That being said. CVA traditional sidelocks use a a technically non removable drum and breech. they can be removed, but should be done by a smith.
Remove barrel from stock.
pad barrel and put in vice drum up (presuming you have already tried penetrating oil from inside and out and still siezed).

If you can try cutting a new slot in screw head with dremel or file.
Use a good fitting bit with an impact driver. this is a tool you put a screwdriver bit one end and hit it with a hammer at other end.
Normally the impact drives down and twist screw at same time.
But before you do, heat the drum only with a small butane torch, do not heat the screw. this will help soften the crud holding the screw and swell the drum threads AWAY from the screw threads.

If that don't work the next is more difficult and needs precision.

File or grind head flat. use a center punch to make an indent in center of screw shank. It must be center.
Use a small drill, drill clear through, enlarge a couple sizes one at a time,
but don't get into the screw threads. let cool insert an easy out.
Heat the drum only. smack easy out with hammer and twist to unscrew at same time.

If still stuck, drill till just screw threads remain. Then use a tap to carefully recut threads.

This is how. You have to determine your competency level.
 
The propane torch and Kroil worked on mine. Take your time and go slow. You may have to let it cool and re heat several times but this usually works. If you can't get it out that way, take it to a gunsmith.
 
screw

So what did you do after taking it out?

use the right tap clean and dress the threads.
Buy a new screw, apply antisieze and put the new screw in.

If the threads are questionable or beyond repair.
Locktite makes a special thread repair epoxy or you can do a thread insert.
 
screw

in the old traditional sidelock CVA rifles,
the bolster / drum is not meant to be removed, nor the breech plug.
I know a place that has them as replacement items.
The drums are available on as available basis.

I don't know if anybody in the after market is making them or not.

I do not know if Deercreek has them or not. They are not shown on the website
 
I f you do not have the experience best let a gunsmith do it.
That being said. CVA traditional sidelocks use a a technically non removable drum and breech. they can be removed, but should be done by a smith.
Remove barrel from stock.
pad barrel and put in vice drum up (presuming you have already tried penetrating oil from inside and out and still siezed).

If you can try cutting a new slot in screw head with dremel or file.
Use a good fitting bit with an impact driver. this is a tool you put a screwdriver bit one end and hit it with a hammer at other end.
Normally the impact drives down and twist screw at same time.
But before you do, heat the drum only with a small butane torch, do not heat the screw. this will help soften the crud holding the screw and swell the drum threads AWAY from the screw threads.

If that don't work the next is more difficult and needs precision.

File or grind head flat. use a center punch to make an indent in center of screw shank. It must be center.
Use a small drill, drill clear through, enlarge a couple sizes one at a time,
but don't get into the screw threads. let cool insert an easy out.
Heat the drum only. smack easy out with hammer and twist to unscrew at same time.

If still stuck, drill till just screw threads remain. Then use a tap to carefully recut threads.

This is how. You have to determine your competency level.


Thanks your kindly for the step by step info. I gave it a shot yesterday but screw won't budge I am going to left it alone before I ruin the drum .
 
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