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Maverick223
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Coming right up. I still need to take some photos and measurements and report back.
VZ.58 Club:
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armoredman
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[Bugs Bunny Voice] Eh, could be![/Bugs Bunny Voice]
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Maverick223
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Magazine Modifications:
To modify a standard mil-spec. 30rnd. magazine for reduced capacity you will need the following parts;
1. 1x complete 30rnd. magazine [the floorplate and follower type doesn't matter] $15.00/ea (MidwayUSA occasionally sells packs of 4 in a leather pouch for about $50.00)
2. 1x "10rnd double stack magazine" floorplate $4.00/ea
3. 1x "10rnd double stack magazine" safety $4.50/ea
Tools required:
1. Angle Grinder with thin kerf cut-off blade for metal (a hacksaw might also work, and a metal cutting bandsaw would be ideal)
2. Measurement Tool (I used calipers, but the measurements needn't be precise so a tape measure will suffice)
3. Permanent Marker or scribe
4. Wire Cutters (I used a pair of side cutters, but diagonal cutters, side-cutting needle-nose pliers, or most anything else capable of cutting steel wire would work)
5. Wire-Wheel or Sander (optional; for removing the burr left on the magazine body after cutting)
6. File (optional; for cleaning up the groove cut in the magazine body)
Instructions:
1. Completely disassemble the magazine by removing the floorplate, magazine safety (remove this from the spring), spring, and follower (remove this from the spring).
2. Measure and mark the magazine body for cutting. Mark the rear of the body at approximately 6-3/8in. from the top of the notch for the BHO (the part of the magazine that houses the actuator for the BHO {which is part of the follower}). Mark the front of the magazine at approximately 5-3/4in. from the top of the magazine (not the feed-lips, but the flat area at the very top of the front/center).
4. Mark the magazine from front to rear on each side connecting the two marks that you made on the front and rear of the body.
5. Cut along these lines using the angle grinder/metal cutting bandsaw/hacksaw. Note that you should be left with a remnant approximately 2.3"x1.8" depending upon the kerf of the blade used to cut the magazine; if you cut too short you will not be able to load 20 rounds into the reassembled magazine.
6. Using the wire-wheel or sandpaper clean up the burr left on the bottom of the magazine.
7. With the angle grinder or other suitable metal-cutting tool, cut an approximately 0.1in. wide notch on both sides of the magazine starting at 0.15in. from the end of the magazine and terminating at about 0.25in. This notch needn't be deep, it just has to hold the new floorplate securely in place (if you cut too deep you will compromise the structural integrity of the magazine, you just need to cut the folds that extend outward from the body).
8. Clean up the notch with the file as needed.
9. Cut the magazine follower at about 1.33in. in the front and 1.76in. at the rear (both are measured from the flat part at top, not the "bump").
10. Snip the magazine spring leaving 17 loops (length is approximately 14-14.5in. uncompressed).
11. Reattach the spring to the follower and new magazine safety.
12. Insert the follower/spring/safety assembly into the magazine body.
13. Slide the new floorplate onto the bottom of the magazine.
14. Repeat steps 1-13 as necessary for additional magazines.
15. Sit down and watch the Olympics wondering why they never televise the shooting events.
To modify a standard mil-spec. 30rnd. magazine for reduced capacity you will need the following parts;
1. 1x complete 30rnd. magazine [the floorplate and follower type doesn't matter] $15.00/ea (MidwayUSA occasionally sells packs of 4 in a leather pouch for about $50.00)
2. 1x "10rnd double stack magazine" floorplate $4.00/ea
3. 1x "10rnd double stack magazine" safety $4.50/ea
Tools required:
1. Angle Grinder with thin kerf cut-off blade for metal (a hacksaw might also work, and a metal cutting bandsaw would be ideal)
2. Measurement Tool (I used calipers, but the measurements needn't be precise so a tape measure will suffice)
3. Permanent Marker or scribe
4. Wire Cutters (I used a pair of side cutters, but diagonal cutters, side-cutting needle-nose pliers, or most anything else capable of cutting steel wire would work)
5. Wire-Wheel or Sander (optional; for removing the burr left on the magazine body after cutting)
6. File (optional; for cleaning up the groove cut in the magazine body)
Instructions:
1. Completely disassemble the magazine by removing the floorplate, magazine safety (remove this from the spring), spring, and follower (remove this from the spring).
2. Measure and mark the magazine body for cutting. Mark the rear of the body at approximately 6-3/8in. from the top of the notch for the BHO (the part of the magazine that houses the actuator for the BHO {which is part of the follower}). Mark the front of the magazine at approximately 5-3/4in. from the top of the magazine (not the feed-lips, but the flat area at the very top of the front/center).
4. Mark the magazine from front to rear on each side connecting the two marks that you made on the front and rear of the body.
5. Cut along these lines using the angle grinder/metal cutting bandsaw/hacksaw. Note that you should be left with a remnant approximately 2.3"x1.8" depending upon the kerf of the blade used to cut the magazine; if you cut too short you will not be able to load 20 rounds into the reassembled magazine.
6. Using the wire-wheel or sandpaper clean up the burr left on the bottom of the magazine.
7. With the angle grinder or other suitable metal-cutting tool, cut an approximately 0.1in. wide notch on both sides of the magazine starting at 0.15in. from the end of the magazine and terminating at about 0.25in. This notch needn't be deep, it just has to hold the new floorplate securely in place (if you cut too deep you will compromise the structural integrity of the magazine, you just need to cut the folds that extend outward from the body).
8. Clean up the notch with the file as needed.
9. Cut the magazine follower at about 1.33in. in the front and 1.76in. at the rear (both are measured from the flat part at top, not the "bump").
10. Snip the magazine spring leaving 17 loops (length is approximately 14-14.5in. uncompressed).
11. Reattach the spring to the follower and new magazine safety.
12. Insert the follower/spring/safety assembly into the magazine body.
13. Slide the new floorplate onto the bottom of the magazine.
14. Repeat steps 1-13 as necessary for additional magazines.
15. Sit down and watch the Olympics wondering why they never televise the shooting events.
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Maverick223
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Magazine Modifications [additional photos]:
See attached photos below, and I hope you enjoyed this installment of make-your-own magazine.
If anyone hasn't the tools, or just doesn't want to tackle this yourself just let me know and I can build a few more. To save a bit on shipping we can start to compile a list to order the parts in bulk. I'm thinking I should be able to do them for about $35+shipping (actual), probably less, but I want to stay on the conservative side. Obviously the cost would be reduced if you supply your own magazines (and/or other requisite parts).
See attached photos below, and I hope you enjoyed this installment of make-your-own magazine.
If anyone hasn't the tools, or just doesn't want to tackle this yourself just let me know and I can build a few more. To save a bit on shipping we can start to compile a list to order the parts in bulk. I'm thinking I should be able to do them for about $35+shipping (actual), probably less, but I want to stay on the conservative side. Obviously the cost would be reduced if you supply your own magazines (and/or other requisite parts).
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barnbwt
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There is only one pistol that properly compliments the VZ-58; the CZ 52
Get one in a 9mm barrel and you're good to go!(didn't say it's the most practical sidearm these days, though)
Maverick;
Does modifying the mag body make it a "US Part" according to the regs?
TCB
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Maverick223
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I doubt it, but I don't know for sure (I wouldn't count on it).
armoredman said:[Bugs Bunny Voice] Eh, could be![/Bugs Bunny Voice]
:banghead: I stupidly sold my Phantom earlier this year because I didn't like the trigger(compared to my Ruger SR9).....Now that I see the two together, I'm really kicking myself
Thank you Maverick223 for posting all that info...
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Maverick223
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No problem, Mike. Hope that you can make sense of my ramblings. If you give it a go make sure to post the results.
Forgot to mention that the capacity of the design posted above is right at 20.5rnds, so there is plenty of room to lock in a fully loaded magazine on a closed bolt. Additionally, you can further shorten the magazine to make it 10 or 15 rounds if you choose, though I don't know the proper measurements for those capacities.
Forgot to mention that the capacity of the design posted above is right at 20.5rnds, so there is plenty of room to lock in a fully loaded magazine on a closed bolt. Additionally, you can further shorten the magazine to make it 10 or 15 rounds if you choose, though I don't know the proper measurements for those capacities.
armoredman
Member
Geez I'm going to hate myself for saying this, but Mike...I feel your PaiN.
They make an excellent field pair, and if I had to take my fat old lazy rear end to war, (heaven forfend), that's the combo that I would walk out with. Probably get smoked five minutes late because I never learned how to be an infantryman,(Navy vet), but I'd be well armed for those five minutes!
They make an excellent field pair, and if I had to take my fat old lazy rear end to war, (heaven forfend), that's the combo that I would walk out with. Probably get smoked five minutes late because I never learned how to be an infantryman,(Navy vet), but I'd be well armed for those five minutes!
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Maverick223
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Why do you guys prefer the Phantom over the 75B, reduced weight? I haven't shot a Phantom and don't own either...or any other 9mmPara for that matter (so take this with a bucket of salt), but I prefer the looks and the feel of the traditional 75B.
armoredman
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I don't know, other than it just "feels right".
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Maverick223
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I used to own a 9mmPara Hi-Power which has a very similar feel, so perhaps that is the reason I prefer the 75B.
coalbed
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coalbed
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Oh yea my pistol of choice is the cz52, just seems to go with the rifle.
armoredman
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Welcome, amigo.
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Maverick223
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Welcome to the club and THR, coalbed!
coalbed
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Thanks for the welcome! I have a question you may have hashed out before but I couldnt find it. Im about to order a case of ammo and cant decide on the golden tiger or the last of the m67 yugo. I had always read the yugo has a hollow in the head and tumbles, so I cut some bullets open and found no hollow, just lead all the way to the tip, the tiger FMJBT is also supposed to have this cavity but I dont have any to cut up. the yugo powder charges were within .3 grain of being the same weight, as opposed to the wolf black box which ran as much as 1 grain different with an average of .8 grain.
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Maverick223
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I don't know if either have a cavity in the nose (the only ones that do that I can think of is Soviet 5.45x39.5mm and Mk.VII/VIII/VIIIz .303British), but it isn't a great performer as far as terminal ballistics. It's also corrosive and non-reloadable (without a great deal of effort, as it has Berdan primers). On the upside, it is very accurate (at least by 7.62x39mm surplus standards) and stores very well (due to the corrosive primers). Personally I won't use the stuff due to the highly corrosive primers (which makes cleaning a pain), but have considered purchasing some for long term storage in hard times.
If you are looking for good defensive ammo I would highly recommend something loaded with a 123gr. Hornady V-Max (I load mine with 34.0gr. of H335). Second choice would be a similar load with 123gr. Hornady SSTs, and my [distant] final choices would be a toss-up between Ulyanovsk 8M3 "Sapsan" (can be purchased in the form of 123gr. Wolf Military Classic HPs) and Barnaul 125gr. SPs (in the form of any of the "Bear brands"). In my terminal ballistics and accuracy testing they aren't as good of performers as the aforementioned, but they are relatively cheap by comparison.
If you are looking for good defensive ammo I would highly recommend something loaded with a 123gr. Hornady V-Max (I load mine with 34.0gr. of H335). Second choice would be a similar load with 123gr. Hornady SSTs, and my [distant] final choices would be a toss-up between Ulyanovsk 8M3 "Sapsan" (can be purchased in the form of 123gr. Wolf Military Classic HPs) and Barnaul 125gr. SPs (in the form of any of the "Bear brands"). In my terminal ballistics and accuracy testing they aren't as good of performers as the aforementioned, but they are relatively cheap by comparison.
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coalbed
Member
Thanks for the input Maverick, I decided to buy a case of the yugo m67 as its about all dried up and I wont be able to get it later, Ill store it and buy some of the new made to shoot up.
JHenry
Member
very interesting gun but the price is pretty high, are they still being imported?
Interesting they are
The Vz58's price has always been somewhat prohibitive for me(until I finally ran into the great deal I got on mine). That said, if I had known how well they shoot, handle and how well built to Vz58 is....I probably would have bit the bullet and got one a long time ago.coalbed, I been running MFS 125g SP and its been doing great.
coalbed
Member
That mfs looks interesting, never heard of it until you mentioned it. rumor is its the same as silver bear, resold by Hungary
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Maverick223
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They are. Czechpoint is the current importer for the D.Technik builds (IIRC they are now called Czech Small Arms), but there is another version being produced by CAI called the Vz.2008 at a much lower price point. Century might not have a spotless reputation, but the new ones have been doing pretty good and are quite a bit less costly. It might be worth a look, if the Czechpoint is a bit over budget.
Yep, all of the MFS stuff is made by Barnaul, which is also branded as Silver Bear. It's pretty fair for the price.
armoredman
Member
Czechpoint is also bringing in the vz-58 in 5.56mm, and very shortly, vz-58 pistols in 7.62x39mm and 5.56mm. THOSE will be interesting as well as excellent base points to make NFA SBRs, if you want to go that route.
coalbed
Member
mag prices
Hey guys, I was looking at mag prices and found that czechpoint still has used mags with or without US parts for $15, anyone seen a better price on them lately? Also I noticed further back in the thread a discussion about the difference in trigger pull with the single leg feather or double, I notice while I was searching their parts section that you could buy a checkpoint sear and feather for like $20 if you wanted to try it and see if its really better, my OOW has the double and seems very crisp to me, but does have alot of take-up. http://www.czechpoint-usa.com/produ...cessories/vz-58-parts-and-accessories/?list=7
Hey guys, I was looking at mag prices and found that czechpoint still has used mags with or without US parts for $15, anyone seen a better price on them lately? Also I noticed further back in the thread a discussion about the difference in trigger pull with the single leg feather or double, I notice while I was searching their parts section that you could buy a checkpoint sear and feather for like $20 if you wanted to try it and see if its really better, my OOW has the double and seems very crisp to me, but does have alot of take-up. http://www.czechpoint-usa.com/produ...cessories/vz-58-parts-and-accessories/?list=7
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