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Wad or...?

Discussion in 'Blackpowder' started by LivewireBlanco, Apr 18, 2013.

?

What's your preferred method of chain fire protection?

Poll closed May 18, 2013.
  1. Over ball grease

    13 vote(s)
    19.4%
  2. Lubed wad

    30 vote(s)
    44.8%
  3. Grease and wad both

    7 vote(s)
    10.4%
  4. Nothing, over sized lead is good enough!

    13 vote(s)
    19.4%
  5. Doesn't matter to me as long as I use something!

    4 vote(s)
    6.0%
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  1. LivewireBlanco

    LivewireBlanco Member

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    OK so I'm curious what everyone is using for their black powder revolvers. If you make your own wads or over ball grease please share your recipe!
     
  2. Prairie Dawg

    Prairie Dawg Member

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    Much of the time I use a felt wad lubed with Gatofeo's lube.
    I pick the wads up cheep from tables at cowboy shoots & sometimes off gunbroker or ebay.

    Sometimes I use cornmeal over the powder & just pur Gatofeo's lube over the ball.
    This is messier, but works well.
    --Dawg

    Gatofeo's lube (from an old post of his):
    Years ago I began posting a bullet, patch and wad lubricant based on a 19th century recipe.
    I used more precise ingredients than the 19th century version, which simply listed tallow, paraffin and beeswax.
    Without changing the ratio, I began mixing:
    1 part canning paraffin.
    1 part mutton tallow.
    1/2 part beeswax.
    All measurements are by weight, NOT volume.
    The result is an exceptional black powder lubricant that was later named by others, "Gatofeo No. 1 Lubricant."

    I use canning paraffin because it's pure. Who knows what lurks in old candles, especially if they're scented. Yes, paraffin is a petroleum product. Yes, petroleum greases and oils will creat a hard, tarry fouling when used with black powder. BUT canning paraffin doesn't do this. Long ago, a chemist told me that canning paraffin lacks the offending hydrocarbons.
    I don't know about that, but I do know that canning paraffin (used to seal fruit preserves in jars) doesn't create a hard, tarry fouling.

    Mutton tallow is needed. I've tried a variety of greases but mutton tallow is clearly superior. I've tried Crisco, and the tallow of beef, chicken, turkey, deer, pig, elk and even bear grease. Not tried moose,though. Or Dodo Bird for that matter ... might be kinda hard to get.
    Mutton tallow has long been suggested for black powder lubricant, at least to the mid 1800s.
    Canning paraffin is about as pure as you can get. Totally inert too.

    Mix together some Gatofeo No. 1 Lubricant for yourself. Dixie Gun Works sells mutton tallow at the best price I've found. A little goes a long way.
    A hard felt wad soaked in melted Gatofeo No. 1 Lube keeps fouling soft and the bore cleaner than any other lubricant I've tried.
    The dry lubricant in commercial wads is the worst, in my experience. Hardly makes a dent in bore fouling.

    Make up a batch of Gatofeo No. 1 Lubricant for yourself, and see if it doesn't work for you.
     
  3. Lunie

    Lunie Member

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    Mar 21, 2011
    Messages:
    530
    I shoot naked, baby.

    Wait, I meant with no lube and bare balls.

    Oh forget it, you know what I was trying to say. No lube, no wad, and no chain fires (so far).
     
  4. DMZ

    DMZ Member

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    Johnson's Paste wax over the ball keeps the bore shiny clean.
     
  5. damoc

    damoc Member

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    Dude wads are for shotguns an women folk learnin ta shoot

    wads take more time to reload cost more money if your buyin them
    and generally take up room better suited for the holy black.


    my grease mix varies with the season but 60/40 lard beeswax is about right
    Ive recently come into some fine tallow and ill probably use that straight.

    oh and i dont think wads do as good of a job of keeping things lubricated
    and clean.

    clean is probably not the right word? working is probably a better word.
     
  6. snakeman

    snakeman Member

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    Wouldn't using .454 balls seal the chambers enough to prevent chainfires? I'm in the same boat. I have no clue when it comes to b.p. Sorry for the thread hijacking.
     
  7. damoc

    damoc Member

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    I think chain fires would be eliminated with good sealing ball MAYBEE

    but im not willing to chance it an besides fouling will shut down any
    BP revolver thats why I use grease over ball
     
  8. snakeman

    snakeman Member

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    I would think that grease would attract more dirt. Also, wouldn't the grease melt out if you're carrying the gun around in the texas heat all day during the summer?
     
  9. BlackNet

    BlackNet Member

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  10. snakeman

    snakeman Member

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    Alright enough of my thread hijacking I really appreciate the info and please get back to posting your recipes for the op.
     
  11. BlackNet

    BlackNet Member

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    Need nothing other than powder and ball. See link doc :) it's not a mystery it's science.
     
  12. damoc

    damoc Member

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    If i was in the texas heat all day i would adjust my grease mix to suit

    I have not had trouble with grease collecting dirt
     
  13. BlackNet

    BlackNet Member

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    'Grease' will *NOT* prevent chain fires. Grease and wads are used for Fouling Management.
     
  14. damoc

    damoc Member

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    just an fyi during the depth of winter i was basically using straight lard because it was that cold
     
  15. damoc

    damoc Member

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    Im pretty sure it does prevent chainfire blacknet but its probably a mute issue if the ball
    has a good tight,clean seal.

    but you make a good point fouling is the issue and why we must use something
     
  16. BlackNet

    BlackNet Member

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    READ the link I posted, 3 pages worth. You will see what I am talking about.
     
  17. 44 Dave

    44 Dave Member

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    Depends on what I am loading for, to keep under my pillow I use wads. Shoot at a range wads are less mess. Just shooting out of the back door grease is cheapest and keeps the cylinder arbor lubed.
     
  18. damoc

    damoc Member

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    I just had a quick look at the first page and its wrong I know from personal expierience

    grease in blackpowder shuts it up/stops the fire train real quick.

    If I have to explain how i know that im going to look all kinds of stupid take my word
    or test it for yourself
     
  19. BlackNet

    BlackNet Member

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    yes explain what you are calling 'grease' also explain how crisco/bees wax/etc will stop the fire train.
     
  20. BlackNet

    BlackNet Member

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    Bottom line is chain fires are caused from:
    1. Loose fiting balls.
    2. Improperly sealed chambers.
    3. Loose caps.

    lubes, wads, patches, etc does *NOT* stop chain fires, they just work on fouling.
     
  21. damoc

    damoc Member

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    by grease I mean lard,beeswax,tallow probably also crisco although I wont use the stuff
    for other reasons.

    it seems to melt into the power and shuts down the fire thats the best i can explain it

    get some black soak it with lard and see how well it burns

    it probably also provides a physical barrier but this is secondary
     
  22. damoc

    damoc Member

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    it will help with loose fitting balls or otherwise poorly sealing chambers
     
  23. BlackNet

    BlackNet Member

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    lubes etc can and will get burned, they offer *NO* heat, fire retardation or even reduction.

    If the lube/grease/what not is mixing with the powder then well obviously and clearly you are puting to much pressure on the load
     
  24. damoc

    damoc Member

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    got nothing to do with pressure im putting on the load Im not telling my newbie mistake

    Im not going to go into the chemistry (even if i knew it) of why it works but the grease
    will shut down the fire.

    so try it and let me know.

    bumble bees are not supposed to be able to fly you know
     
  25. BlackNet

    BlackNet Member

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    First bumble bee thing is a gross myth that has been going around for some time, it's simply false.

    Second this is what is going on when you fire.
    4500 frames per second

    So please explain 'shut down the fire' when a) the fire source is outside of the cylinder and b) powder in the rear of the cylinder gets ignited and runs to the front.
     
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