Walker... I did it.

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Azrael256

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That is to say, I done it. I decided that I hadn't celebrated my new job, it was Christmas, and I needed a project, so I bought the kit. The truth of the matter is that I really wanted it, and I had to come up with three good rationalizations before I could order it. None of them are really all that good, but I get a pistol out of it, so who cares?

Anyway, I decided how to finish the wood, and I decided how to make a holster rig for it (really more of a backpack for the leg. It'll weigh more than the gun.), but what I can't decide is how to finish the steel. My BIL suggested a good nickel finish (the one with the slightly bluish hue to it), my sister recommended polished bluing (she likes BIL's Colt 1911 with the polished bluing), and a good friend suggested a more subdued, almost-black deep bluing. I've also heard hard chroming (which I'm concerned might affect function, although it probably won't), as well as leaving it ITW and letting the metal turn that sort of gray patina.

I don't plan to shoot it incessantly (although I may change my mind), but in any case, I'm thinking along the lines of plenty of TLC to keep it looking spiffy, so durability isn't the concern it is with a carry gun. I'm doing the wood in a simple flat oil finish with a deer-antler rub to close the pores. I want some grain character, but no glossy shine.

Cost doesn't really concern me, since I'll be saving carefully to do everything. What do you guys think I should do?

And yes, she has a name. I'll announce with pictures when the delivery man comes.
 
The deep blue is more authentic, and more durable than polished blue. Nickel might be interesting. Never saw a nickel-plated Walker. Chrome won't affect function any more than nickel will, which is not at all.

Are you planning on having any parts case hardened?

Whatever you do, consider Ford's for finishing. www.fordsguns.com. They do beautiful work.

Good luck !!! :D
 
If you want a relatively period correct finish that's even more durable than modern hot bluing, consider rust bluing. I've had great luck with Mark Lee Express Blue. It's a fast process also, though labor intensive. Basically, you sand the metal to the finish you prefer. No finer than 320 grit though. You degrease and apply. A thin film of orangish rust appears after a few minutes. Then you boil it, dry it and card off the rust film. You need to repeat 8-10 times or so for the finish to even out and darken up. Once you're done, you have a smooth, satin finish that's just gorgeous.
 
Is rust bluing the one that gives that sort of grayish color? I saw a picture of that, and I think I like it.
 
You can stop the process anywhere along the way. I always continue until I get a deep, rich, bluish black, but you pass through several very pleasant grays along the way.
 
Azrael256: Is rust bluing the one that gives that sort of grayish color? I saw a picture of that, and I think I like it.

It's more of a satin-finish brown. Much like what you see on old Winchesters (think 1880s), Remingtons, that sort of thing. It's a finish that drinks oil like a fish drinks water, so keeping it lubed before it starts to pit is something you'll have to keep an eye on.

And, just to be sure, you need to bring it up here to let me get a good look at it... y'know, to make sure it's in working order... and, uh... yeah... maybe a test-fire or two... can't trust these old designs, ya know... need someone of "expertise" to make sure it, uh, checks out... ;) :D
 
It depends on what solution and technique you use as to what color you get. The Mark Lee Express Blue is a true blue and has no brown to it. I've tried slow rust bluing with Laurel Mountain Forge browning solution and got a dark brownish black. There are other solutions out also. I have Phil Pilkington's rust blue also, but I have only done a few small test pieces with it. So far, the Express Blue gives the prettiest results for the least amount of work. I've used it on several muzzleloader kits that get a lot of shooting and hard use and it's amazingly durable and rust free. In fact, I couldn't get it to strip when I decided to try a different finish on my Traditions Trapper and had to sand it off. Amazing stuff.
 
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