what bullet?

[Axis II]

I'm going to start testing the Inline ML and need some advice on which bullet to choose as well as the sabot for each bullets?

Im shooting a cva optima v2 50cal. Looking for optimum accuracy and performance.

Hornady 45cal, 225gr FTX

Hornady 44cal, 225gr FTX

Hornady 44cal, 240gr XTP

Hornady 45cal 200gr FTX

Hornady 45cal (450 bushmaster) 250gr FTX

Hornady 45cal XTP 240-300gr

 

[rodwha]

For the .450 Bushmaster bullet you'll need to ensure the velocity out at the longest range you intend to use it will work. I looked at these and found that my sidelock and charge won't cut it same with those meant for the .444 Marlin.

I'm not sure about the bullets made for the .45 Colt. It claims the velocity is inline with what a sidelock will provide but I've read of someone using an XTP IIRC and it blew up on impact creating a very shallow wound. Not sure what his range was and it's possible he was too close giving it too high of a velocity which will make them blow up.

Hornady makes a few .45 cal aerodynamic bullets with a high BC and lower velocity rating. Look in the muzzleloading section. They also make full bore .50 cal aerodynamic bullets.

I've also read good things about Thor bullets.

 

[sage5907]

The hardest thing to get out of a muzzleloader is consistency. Every time you load the rifle you want it to hit in the same place at 100 yards. My experience is that full size conical bullets are more accurate and consistent than bullets loaded with a sabot. Muzzleloaders have some peculiarities one of which is that they sometimes don't shoot in the same place when the temperature is 80 degrees vs. temperature at 30 degrees. When you get frustrated with black powder substitutes and sabots go to FF black powder with conical bullets like the 385 grain Hornady Great Plains bullet. Black powder fires consistently at any temperature and the bullets hit in the same place. Swab the bore with a tight patch with Wonder Lube after every shot. Run the patch in about 12 inches, pull it out and flip it over and run it all the way down. Another thing is that you have to follow through and hold the rifle still when the shot goes off. You won't learn everything about that rifle in just one hunting season.

 

[Newtosavage]

I've had great luck with Harvester crush rib sabots and just about any .44 caliber bullet. Hornady, Remington hollow points, even the all-lead plinkers will group at 100. If you use .44 caliber bullets, get the green sabots and for .45 caliber bullets use the black ones. It's really that simple.

Longest ML shot I've taken on a deer to date was last January at 142 yards (lazered) with a Harvester crush rib black sabot and .45 grain Remington hollow point 240-grain pistol bullet.

Others have had much more impressive results with quality bullets and sabots.

I am still trying to find a full sized conical that will group as well as my saboted pistol bullets in either of my .50 cal Muzzleloaders.

 

[rodwha]

I've had great luck with Harvester crush rib sabots and just about any .44 caliber bullet. Hornady, Remington hollow points, even the all-lead plinkers will group at 100. If you use .44 caliber bullets, get the green sabots and for .45 caliber bullets use the black ones. It's really that simple.

Longest ML shot I've taken on a deer to date was last January at 142 yards (lazered) with a Harvester crush rib black sabot and .45 grain Remington hollow point 240-grain pistol bullet.

Others have had much more impressive results with quality bullets and sabots.

I am still trying to find a full sized conical that will group as well as my saboted pistol bullets in either of my .50 cal Muzzleloaders.

What twist rate(s) are you dealing with? For fast twists I've read far too many excellent reports on paper patched Lee .500 bullets but that would require you to cast.

Though I haven't really tested my 1:48" twist I have shot a few .50 cal 320 grn Lee REALs at 50 yds with them nearly touching. I just used my typical 70 grn 3F charge that I used while breaking the barrel in with PRB. But these, too, will require you to cast.

 

[Newtosavage]

Those results are with my Ruger 77/50 which is a 1:28" twist.

 

[rodwha]

Those results are with my Ruger 77/50 which is a 1:28" twist.

The standard full bore conicals such as the Lee REAL may not work as well, but with that fast twist I'd say a paper patched Lee .500 pistol bullet (440 grns?) seems to work VERY well for others with fast twists.

 

[sage5907]

Midway USA has the Hornady 385 grain Great Plains Bullets on sale for $10 a box. Your 1:28 twist in the CVA optima will stabilize these bullets. They are a carbon copy of the old Buffalo Bullets that I used for many years. With 105 grains of FF your rifle will be as effective as a 30-06 out to about 120 yards. Pyrodex may work but I would bet on FF black because it is more consistent at low temperatures.

 

[Noz]

The hardest thing to get out of a muzzleloader is consistency. Every time you load the rifle you want it to hit in the same place at 100 yards. My experience is that full size conical bullets are more accurate and consistent than bullets loaded with a sabot. Muzzleloaders have some peculiarities one of which is that they sometimes don't shoot in the same place when the temperature is 80 degrees vs. temperature at 30 degrees. When you get frustrated with black powder substitutes and sabots go to FF black powder with conical bullets like the 385 grain Hornady Great Plains bullet. Black powder fires consistently at any temperature and the bullets hit in the same place. Swab the bore with a tight patch with Wonder Lube after every shot. Run the patch in about 12 inches, pull it out and flip it over and run it all the way down. Another thing is that you have to follow through and hold the rifle still when the shot goes off. You won't learn everything about that rifle in just one hunting season.

My feelings exactly. I like the MaxiHunters.

 

[sage5907]

Noz, I have a TC Hawken with a 1:48 twist and the 370 grain MaxiBall was the only bullet that I ever used and it worked well with 100 grains of FF. I took one really big buck with that rifle. A faster twist like the 1:28 likes heavier bullets. I have a White Super 91 with a 1:25 twist and it likes bullets from 385 grain up to 460 grains. Most of the time now I use a 430 grain super slug but they aren't available any longer.

 

[Bfh_auto]

My traditions liked maxi ball better than sabot. It hated fpb but my friend's loved them. Buy sabots and bullets separately an a pack of maxi ball and have fun.

 

[entropy]

I use Hornady Great Plains 385 Gr. HP conicals. Sabot? Not needed.

 

[Axis II]

Midway USA has the Hornady 385 grain Great Plains Bullets on sale for $10 a box. Your 1:28 twist in the CVA optima will stabilize these bullets. They are a carbon copy of the old Buffalo Bullets that I used for many years. With 105 grains of FF your rifle will be as effective as a 30-06 out to about 120 yards. Pyrodex may work but I would bet on FF black because it is more consistent at low temperatures.

My traditions liked maxi ball better than sabot. It hated fpb but my friend's loved them. Buy sabots and bullets separately an a pack of maxi ball and have fun.

so i can shoot a non saboted bullet like the maxi hunters/conicle out of a modern inline?

 

[Bfh_auto]

so i can shoot a non saboted bullet like the maxi hunters/conicle out of a modern inline?

Yes. Just make sure you start them straight.

 

[rodwha]

A bit expensive but Hornady makes a full bore aerodynamic bullet called the FPB.

https://www.hornady.com/muzzleloading/fpb-muzzleloading#!/

 

[rodwha]

I've also read great things about Thor bullets.

https://www.thorbullets.com/

 

[Newtosavage]

I've looked at those Hornady Great Plains bullets they have on sale, and have been tempted to try them. Do they load directly or do you need a wad and or lube? How would they hold up on elk and at what range?

 

[sage5907]

The Hornady Great Plains bullets are pre lubed so they will load easily in a clean barrel. However, if you use black powder and fire a shot the barrel will be fouled and should be swabbed with a patch with some kind of lubricant such as Wonder Lube to get the fouling out before the next bullet goes down. I just run a patch in about 12 inches, pull it out, flip it over and run it all the way down. Most of the black powder fouling will be near the muzzle so it comes out with the patch. If you run the patch all the way down the first pass it becomes harder to pull out. The black powder substitutes such as Pyrodex do not need to be swabbed as much. I like to use a small T handle that screws into the ramrod to swab the barrel and to push the bullet down. These large bullets hold together in one piece and most of the killing of the animal is done by blood loss much like an arrow. A 385 grain bullet at 1200 fps does have great shocking power and penetrates deeply into large animals. I like them because they can break the shoulder bones and put the animal down where it stands. I sight my rifle in at 100 yards and try to limit my range to about 120 yards because of the rainbow trajectory of a muzzleloading bullet. I used to carry a 2nd scope sighted in at 140 yards with quick disconnect mounts but it didn't turn out to be practical. Now, if the animal is over 100 yards I shoot at the upper third of the body and I never fire a shot that doesn't have hair in the picture.

 

[Patocazador]

For the .450 Bushmaster bullet you'll need to ensure the velocity out at the longest range you intend to use it will work. I looked at these and found that my sidelock and charge won't cut it same with those meant for the .444 Marlin.

I'm not sure about the bullets made for the .45 Colt. It claims the velocity is inline with what a sidelock will provide but I've read of someone using an XTP IIRC and it blew up on impact creating a very shallow wound. Not sure what his range was and it's possible he was too close giving it too high of a velocity which will make them blow up.

Hornady makes a few .45 cal aerodynamic bullets with a high BC and lower velocity rating. Look in the muzzleloading section. They also make full bore .50 cal aerodynamic bullets.

I've also read good things about Thor bullets.

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

I used a 250 gr. Hornady .452 Hp XTP and it blew up because I had pushed it to ~2000 f/s. If the OP wants to use a .45 XTP with a fast-shooting load, use Hornady's 300 gr. XTP or their .429 in the appropriate sabot. They were made for higher velocities.

The Thors are made by Barnes and are the .50 cal. version of their .451 saboted bullet but with a skirt designed to expand like a minie ball. They are a limited run and are more expensive than Barnes' saboted bullet.

 

[rodwha]

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

I used a 250 gr. Hornady .452 Hp XTP and it blew up because I had pushed it to ~2000 f/s. If the OP wants to use a .45 XTP with a fast-shooting load, use Hornady's 300 gr. XTP or their .429 in the appropriate sabot. They were made for higher velocities.

The Thors are made by Barnes and are the .50 cal. version of their .451 saboted bullet but with a skirt designed to expand like a minie ball. They are a limited run and are more expensive than Barnes' saboted bullet.

Maybe even the 240 grn .45 bullet meant for the .454 Casull or .460 S&W.

https://www.hornady.com/bullets/handgun/45-cal-452-240-gr-xtp-mag#!/

I liked the previous version of their site. In it it also showed the velocity ranges, which I didn't see now.

Quite frankly the 240 grn .430 version would have a higher BC and greater sectional density. Same with their 300 grn bullet.

 

[Axis II]

well my harvester smooth 50cal sabots came in today. going to throw some of my .430 240gr XTP for my 44 carbine in them and see what she does with some loose 777.