What custom work does my BHP need? Lots of questions

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bofe954

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I'll preface this by saying that I mainly shoot glocks, so it's easiest for me to compare stuff to glocks. I have been moving away from the plastic and into the steel lately though.

I picked up a Hi power practical and am suffering from hammer bite. I had hoped the practical's ring hammer wouldn't do this, but in a way it makes things worse since I can't just cut down the hammer.

Anyway I like the pistol and I am going to make it work for me. I am considering the C+S hammers. I prefer the appearance of the type II. Is either type of hammer better or worse for curing hammer bite?

I have read that if replacing the hammer with a C+S type that the sear should also be replaced as well. If this is to be done then I am basically looking at a trigger job.

The Pull:
The factory trigger feels good to me other than the it's weight of pull. I don't feel much creep. It has a fair amount of take up which doesn't bother me. The take up ends, and it's like your finger hits a wall, a hard pull and it breaks. I don't have a gauge, but it makes a stock glock pull feel light (although it is much crisper than a glock pull). It has to be over 10 lbs.

The Reset.
The reset is much longer than I am used to. The length of it is less annoying to me than the lack of feel when it ends. With a glock there is a definite "click" when that reset ends and you can feel and hear it. I'd like it if I could get more feel somehow. What part effects this? trigger? Sear? I will probably experiment with the heavier trigger reset spring.

What does the C+S trigger do better, should I get one?

I also would like to change the safety. I may or may not do this as I don't deem it a necessity but.. I don't need the ambi and it adds width. If I got a left side only would it sit flush with the right side of my frame or would I have a hole? Can the right side just be cut off of my ambi? On the 1911's I have fired the safety also had more of a "click on and off" feel. Would this be possible?

While on the width kick, the part of the slide release that you use to push out the slide release sticks out the frame about a quarter inch. It's out beyond the slide. It's nice for disassembly but man...

I am leery of spring changing in other areas because of reliability.

Anyway those of you with custom hi powers let me know what you have had done to your triggers, safeties etc. Any experience in the matter would help. There are a few local smiths I wouldn't mind trying but I'd like to be able to talk to them about the type of work that will be done. I don't just want them to slap in some parts and springs and I get a trigger I still don't like after $100's. I am not opposed to sending out to a big name, but again I'd like to know what to ask for.
 
Can't really comment on some specifics you mentioned but - thought I'd add a 2c re my own BHP Practical. I bought this gun off a guy here some while back - and love the thing to bits. It has had an ambi fitted and could well have had some work done as well - disconnect is gone of course.

I doubt I'll do anything to it because trigger is adequate - not superb but very reasonable. I just checked that over a three pulls sample - comes out 7 pounds. I have used it for IDPA recently and find it a joy to use.

It is possible to spend buckets of $$$'s on a gun - semi in particular - and I think I'd want to be very sure of getting my money's worth if so doing. Good luck with yours and hope other guys will come in with useful suggestions for you. if you make changes over time - come back here and give feedback.


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I forgot - re hammer bite. I am lucky and do not get it - but know guys who do. Very individual thing this seems to be - function of grip method and own anatomy re skin in hand web etc. One guy at club had an extended beavertail welded on to his - nice job but expensive probably.
 
That is basically identical to mine. I even have grips like that on mine right now, except I picked up some stainless hex screws for it. That ambi safety is factory, it's the same as mine. I may leave it, but part of what I wanted out of the BHP was the slenderness, and that safety adds a lot of width.

Does pulling the disconnect actually lower the lbs of pull or just add smoothness and such in teh take up and pull? My trigger is smooth and breaks well, just too heavy.
 
I reckon the disconnect removal just ''sweetens'' the pull - not really going to affect poundage per se. Of course - smoother does translate in part to a feeling perhaps of reduced poundage - ''perceived'' poundage let's say.

I have thought of doing a polishing job on hammer and sear - just to further smooth things but as far as springs go - I'm gonna leave well alone right now.

I don't myself find the width aspect of the ambi any prob. In fact - I am using this for carry right now for a while and if in condition #1, it means once holstered I can check with my right index finger that the safety has not been disturbed - the rig is one that has an upstand of leather at rear to keep gun separated from body/clothes.
 
Hello. Here are some thoughts on this if interested:

http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/Changes to a New Hi Power.htm

http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/HiPowerandHammerBite.htm

http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/MagazineSafety.htm

http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/HeavierRecoilSpring.htm

Overtravel can be reduced but not eliminated completely by installing a small setscrew in the frame to keep the trigger pushed rearward a bit. The C&S trigger is wider than the standard FN and makes trigger pull feel lighter. It also has no provision for a magazine disconnect. They do offer trigger work in which a different sear lever is used, but it requires drilling another hole in the slide so that the fulcrum for the lever is more like that of the FN Competition Model.

In my own guns, the magazine "safeties" have been removed. Those that needed it have had trigger jobs and the hammer spurs bobbed.

Best.
 
Thanks Mr. Camp. I actually have read those links, they are where I have got some of my info. The hammer bite section doesn't really mention the type II hammers. Does this mean the type II will not reduce hammer bite? By the photos at C+S I thought they may actually have the same profile, just a different amount of metal.

I am going to avoid the sear lever (no new holes).

The overtravel (trigger travel beyond when the hammer is released, in case I am confused) doesn't really bug me. I actually think my pistol has very little.
 
Hello. The Type II ring hammer tends to bite, at least in some reports I've seen.
I have used the Type I ring hammer from C&S with no bite and while I like the looks of the Type II, I prefer the comfort of the Type I.

I'm sorry, I misspoke: I meant "slack" or take up rather than overtravel. My mistake. (I seem to make those darned things all the time!)

Best.
 
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