What Do You Clean Your Weapon With

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Haven found anything better than Hoppe's Bench Rest Copper Solvent when cleaning the FAL of surplus. Other than that it's Hoppe's Elite or CLP for the normal stuff. Neither one is objectionable when used indoors. OTOH, Hoppe's BR Copper Solvent should only be used outdoors.:eek:DAYUM!
 
cleaning choices

I use Monatana Extreme products almost exclusively. I have used shooters choice and it does well too. For general parts cleaning, Hoppes 9 or CLP is fine. I DO NOT USE any products in the barrel that have teflon or synthetics in them-over time they cause more harm than good. Montana Extreme, as well as others, have Bore oil that's available that doesn't contain any synthetics,silicones,or PTFE. For really stubborn jacket fouling, I use Sweet's or Montana Ext. 50BMG-they both do a great job of taking out the cooper fouling.
Sinclair (800-717-8211) is a great resource for cleaning products that are above what you find at WalMart, and the technical guys are really helpful for your individual questions and needs.
For rust protection, on everything but the bore, I have found that CLP or RemOil is hard to beat. They do both have synthetics that seem to be helpful in foul weather.
Hope this helps someone! :)
 
" I don't use any products in the barrel that have teflon or synthetics...."
What happens when synthetics or teflons are used in the barrel? I hope it's not bad because the last thing I always leave in the barrel is teflon/synthetic.
 
The additives, like PTFE, tends to embed, and cause problems. Plus, it NEVER embeds uniformly, so you'll get one area slicker than another, or "tighter" than another. Now, assuming you spent your good money on a select match air-gauged barrel, where everything's supposed to be perfect going down the bore, why screw it up?
 
No teflons,ect..in the barrel is due to what "bogie" stated, plus I believe the stuff builds up carbon and cooper fouling more. Call Sinclair.....those guys can educate you a lot better than I on all the technical details around cleaning. Hope this helps!!!!!
 
I use only Gunzilla on all my firearms.

It has reportly cut weapons malfuntions in Iraq by 75%.

It has a long list of testimonials. from our hero who depend on their weapons for their lifes..that's good enough for me to try it.

I was sceptical at first but it produces as advertised.

(Below is from from its website)

Gunzilla contains no hazardous chemicals, is non flammable, and non-corrosive.
Gunzilla removes carbon, copper, lead, rust, plastic fouling and cleans corrosive ammo.
Gunzilla cleans carbon faster than traditional cleaners because it breaks the bond of the carbon molecules.
Gunzilla does not evaporate.
Gunzilla leaves a thin, slippery coating for lubrication and protection which reduces the collection of sand, dust and carbon when the gun is fired.
Gunzilla has a natural smell (plants) and it can be used in the home without driving everyone else out of the house.
Gunzilla removes old oils and previously applied cleaning solvents when cleaning.
Gunzilla leaves a coating that once it is wiped dry is not effected by cold or hot temperatures. In the liquid form Gunzilla turns into a light grease.
Gunzilla protects and displaces water on metal surfaces.
Godzilla is a superior lubricant and many shooters are now using it for reloading.
Gunzilla increases the number of rounds between cleanings.
Gunzilla can be used on shotguns, rifles, handguns, automatic guns and muzzleloaders.
Godzilla eliminates the need to use water for cleaning and oil for protecting when used on a muzzleloader
Godzilla is very effective in cleaning shotgun choke tubes, stainless steel guns, and the AR-15 bolt area.
Gunzilla is a superior protector because it removes the surface rust prior to the final coating.
Gunzilla has No hazardous chemical charges for disposing of empty bottles or used patches in landfills.
Gunzilla is the new gold standard for gun care.

http://www.gunzilla.us
 
Its great if you want to kill your primers

Ironically, the guy from Box O' Truth did a test on this too. Let WD40 and some other oils/lubricants sit on primers for several months. All of them went bang.


Personally, I use disc brake cleaner for the action. For the bore, I use whatever I have on hand, Outer's foaming bore solvent works well for my needs.
 
used to use Hoppes, but now usually it's only CLP after every shooting trip.

My frequent shooters are all chrome-lined, so the worry about accuracy was gone once I paid for the gun.
 
I use Wipe Out's Patch Out mostly to clean the barrels. Sometimes use Hoppes 9 and mostly use it on shotguns. I then either lube it up with Outers oil or Rem Oil. I've switched recently to Rem Oil as it's soo much cheaper.

I sometimes use CLP as a lube but I don't often use it inside of the barrels as oil or anything like that.
 
I mostly use hoppes, But on black powder and surplus shooting, Nothing beats boiling water and a bit of window cleaner. Then I just use gun oil to lube everything up
 
Breakfree CLP, but soon switching to Gunzilla! Also use a copper cleaning solvent in rifles.
 
I once tried the Blue Wonder and Mpro7 bore cleaners. I was VERY dissapointed. After patches came clean with blue wonder I ran a few patches soaked with good ol Hoppes #9. I got more fowling out. Same expierence with Mpro7.

For cleaning I use Butches Bore Shine for my rifle and Shooters Choice or Hoppes#9 for my pistols. I will use a copper solvent on my pistols about once a year.
 
First of all, I really appreciate the feedback on this thread.

However, I'm confused about the CLP discussion. Some have said that synthetics are bad, yet state a preference for BF CLP. I have a can in my hand and it says that it contains PTFE (Teflon).

What am I missing?
 
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I love Breakfree CLP!

I've tried several different products and Breakfree works fast and does a fantastic job.
 
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