What goes into a "National Match" AR?

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Kind of Blued

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I'm thinking about getting into NRA Service Rifle competition. I have a RRA Std. 20" A2 and I'm curious if it would make more sense to "accurize" this rifle by replacing some parts or if I should buy a new Match AR and do something fun and different with this Std. A2.

It already has a great two-stage trigger, but I'm curious if there's anything more that I should do other than a new barrel, new rear sight and front post, and add weight to it. I'm just curious as to why my buddy's Match Grade rifle that he bought used had such an incredibly smooth action...

Is a specific chamber better for those long VLD bullets? Where do most guys attach their sling up front in competition? To the handguards, off the barrel?
 
The match rifles will usually have a free floting handguards as well. That keeps the pressure off the barrel when any pressure is put on the handguards.
 
Please clarify the topic of this thread. Is it:

a) I want to get started in High Power competition. What do I have to do to my rifle so it will be use-able in a high power match?

Answer - nothing, probably. My guess is you could shoot the rifle you have and get pretty far into High Power rifle shooting before it was really your gun holding you back. My first year of High Power, I was losing more points to my own errors than anything attributable to my gun. Things like making good adjustments, taking the right amount of time in rapid fire, getting your body mechanics and position right, are going to make a ton more difference than what gun you are shooting.

b) I am looking to spend some money on a service rifle for high power. What kinds of bells and whistles might be cool?

Answer - varies, but any of the following might be seen on a competition service rifle:
1/4 minute adjustable sights
free float handguard
heavy barrel, "bull barrel," etc.
counterweight in the buttstock to balance out the bull barrel
faster twist rifling (1:8 or 1:7 for heavier bullets favored by HP shooters)
two stage match trigger (which you already have)
 
Answer - nothing, probably.

true, so long as the gun meets the fairly strict rules which mostly relate to how it looks on the outside, but also include things like trigger weight, assuming you want to shoot Service Rifle. if you want to shoot "Match Rifle" then your current AR would almost definitely qualify.
 
What goes into every national Match grade firearm?
A little bit of love.
The rest is trade secrets of the gunsmith who built the weapon.
 
Service Rifle legal National Match modifications to the standard M16/AR15 A2 model are:

1. Rear sight with 1/2x1/2 or 1/4x1/4 MOA rear sight. Much desired since 1MOA per click adjustments aren't fine enough for competition use.

2. Rear sight with the capability to accept swappable rear sight apertures (hooded and non-hooded). This allows the shooter to fine tune the diameter of the rear sight for better focus and/or light conditions.

3. Tapered front sight post to prevent sunlight/glare anomalies affecting sight picture.

4. Thinner front sight post, often between .052", .062", or .072" in width. Better for finer precision in the sight picture.

5. Free float tube. Much desired to prevent sling tension from translating into tension on the barrel.

6. Heavy barrel for better accuracy. Stiffer for better barrel harmonics, and more resistant to barrel flex due to heat.

7. 2-stage trigger that breaks right at or slightly above 4.5 lbs. Definitely a must have, where trigger pull is critical. Performing well in standing will be much more difficult with a standard 6lb+ single stage found in generic lower parts kit triggers.

8. Any chamber that has enough leade/freebore to support the use of 80gr+ bullets (and VLD style bullets). 5.56 NATO will work, but other variations such as .223 Wylde are more popular. .223 Remington (SAAMI spec) will not work. If it is an actual SAAMI spec .223 Remingotn chamber, the leades will be too short.
 
All very good answers. You'll also need an appropriate (match legal), well-made sling. Brownell, Sinclair and Turner Saddlery all make nice leather ones. I prefer Turner's synthetic (1907 style) version.
 
The float tube, trigger and twist rate are the big items. There are also options for sights geared towards shooting round bullseyes in full sunlight.
 
Where do most guys attach their sling up front in competition? To the handguards, off the barrel?

As far as this question, the sling is attached to the sling swivel which is attached to the free float tube.

I posted this picture in another post recently regarding free float tubes:

IMG_5469.JPG


Note how the sling swivel is not a part of the barrel (directly or indirectly such on the front sight base as is on the standard M16/AR15 design).

IMG_5473.JPG


This photo shows that same barrel/float tube after the front sight base is slid onto the barrel.

Here is a photo showing how the sling is used in prone:

Green.jpg

For more information on sling usage, check out:

http://www.odcmp.org/1006/default.asp?page=USAMU_SLING
http://www.ray-vin.com/tech/slinghelp/slinghelp.htm
 
Other added goodies and details not mentioned yet:

-Pinned rear sight: helps it track truer for better repeatability.
-Windage adjustable FSB: allows you to swap barrels and set the POI close to the mechanical zero so that you get as much windage adjustment as possible. Set screws and glue/locktite put a lotless stress on the barrel than taper pins.
-Set screw under front sight: take all the play out of the front sight.
-No flash hider or flash hider timed with peel washers: timing a flash hider with crush washers distorts/stresses the barrel.
 
If the factory barrel shoots, go with it, if not change it.

I wasted a lot of powder and bullets to try to get acceptable accuracy out of my Bushy HBAR and never found it. Swapped in a DCM style barrel from a reputable barrel maker and accuracy was no longer an issue.
 
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