Hi, I am new here and I'm new to reloading I enjoyed what I have done so far a total of nine bullets not shot any of them yet becuase of load data not the same in the load manual I have speer load manual volume 1.i loaded some 243 win according to the manual loaded 3 at min charge 30.gr ,3@ 30.5gr, 3@ 31.0 gr charges and on hodgon web site it has a different min. and maximum than the manual I have so didn't know and it's talking about a speer by bullet I'm using hornady btsp does this matter ?powder I using is imr4064 fed 210 primer brass is once fired monarch do what reload manual should. I get and go by.
What load manual should beginner reloader get
- Thread starter Timocombo
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welcome to thr, timocombo.
if you like the hornady bullet, buy the hornady manual. i'm guessing you're shooting a 100 grain bullet. the hornady manual shows a range of 31.0 to 34.2 grains of imr4064 powder for that bullet, so you are in the ballpark.
suggest you read the front part of that speer manual real well and refer to it often as you are just starting the reloading addiction.
glad to see you are starting at the bottom of the load range.
let us know how your range session goes.
murf
if you like the hornady bullet, buy the hornady manual. i'm guessing you're shooting a 100 grain bullet. the hornady manual shows a range of 31.0 to 34.2 grains of imr4064 powder for that bullet, so you are in the ballpark.
suggest you read the front part of that speer manual real well and refer to it often as you are just starting the reloading addiction.
glad to see you are starting at the bottom of the load range.
let us know how your range session goes.
murf
WestKentucky
Member
In addition to hard copy books, there are a lot of internet based resources. The powder companies have a lot of data posted, and if you want something that isn't posted then they likely can email it to you.
I would suggest the Lyman manual to anyone just getting started for several reasons:
- The price is right
- The loading process is well written up
- It has a nice selection of loads
- A wide range of powder choices
- They are pretty much agnostic towards jacketed and plated bullet selection
- Plenty of lead bullet data, which helps not only for lead, but also a good range for many plated loads
- Having plenty of loads to look at provides comparison with other loads to ballpark data (lead and jacketed bullets typically have overlapping data)
- The price is right
- The loading process is well written up
- It has a nice selection of loads
- A wide range of powder choices
- They are pretty much agnostic towards jacketed and plated bullet selection
- Plenty of lead bullet data, which helps not only for lead, but also a good range for many plated loads
- Having plenty of loads to look at provides comparison with other loads to ballpark data (lead and jacketed bullets typically have overlapping data)
John Joseph
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The Lyman is a good place to start. Hodgdon's comes out as an annual magazine and is very affordable. The Lee is excellent. Accurate/Western has free info as does Allliant.
Bullet companies have their own(Speer, Hornady, Nosler etc...) so if you have a favorite bullet by all means get that company's manual.
The more the better!
Bullet companies have their own(Speer, Hornady, Nosler etc...) so if you have a favorite bullet by all means get that company's manual.
The more the better!
greyling22
Member
Welcome to the forum Timocombo. Here are my general thoughts:
1) The low end of the ranges are not minimums. They are recommended starting charges. You can go lower, but you may or may not be very accurate.
2) As a new loader, and really for most loaders, I'd recommend not going up to the maximum loads. You usually are not getting your most accurate load and it's hard on the shooter and the gun. And you run a greater risk of something going wrong.
3) You will find variations between all manuals. They test using different guns or test barrels on different days at different temps and elevations.
4) You probably should load 5-7 of each variation, not 3. Accuracy is hard to judge based on a single 3 shot group.
5) And finally, some punctuation would make your post a lot easier to read.
1) The low end of the ranges are not minimums. They are recommended starting charges. You can go lower, but you may or may not be very accurate.
2) As a new loader, and really for most loaders, I'd recommend not going up to the maximum loads. You usually are not getting your most accurate load and it's hard on the shooter and the gun. And you run a greater risk of something going wrong.
3) You will find variations between all manuals. They test using different guns or test barrels on different days at different temps and elevations.
4) You probably should load 5-7 of each variation, not 3. Accuracy is hard to judge based on a single 3 shot group.
5) And finally, some punctuation would make your post a lot easier to read.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
Much of the time when you see different numbers in the manuals it's due to a different OAL. Seating the bullet deeper in the case with raise pressures dictating a lighter charge. Different bullets will use a different powder charge too. Testing equipment and conditions are different in every test so again, the charge weights change.
While every one says to start at the very lowest charge weight in the book if the charges are .5gr different in a 50+gr charge nothing bad is going to happen unless the bullet doesn't leave the barrel which is unlikely.
My go to manuals are Lyman and Speer along with the powder manufacturer's site. That said, if I'm using a Hornady or Nosler bullet I will also check their manuals too.
If books list:
50.5 to 54.6
50.9 to 55.1
51.0 to 55.9
You can start at 50.5gr or 51.0gr with equal safety and when working up to higher levels and get to 54.6gr be very attentive if going further to 55.9gr. If your OAL matches the data of 55.1gr source it's probably best to stop there. In any event you should use the charge that produces the best accuracy and that is usually short of the max charges anyway.
Welcome to the forum, good luck.
While every one says to start at the very lowest charge weight in the book if the charges are .5gr different in a 50+gr charge nothing bad is going to happen unless the bullet doesn't leave the barrel which is unlikely.
My go to manuals are Lyman and Speer along with the powder manufacturer's site. That said, if I'm using a Hornady or Nosler bullet I will also check their manuals too.
If books list:
50.5 to 54.6
50.9 to 55.1
51.0 to 55.9
You can start at 50.5gr or 51.0gr with equal safety and when working up to higher levels and get to 54.6gr be very attentive if going further to 55.9gr. If your OAL matches the data of 55.1gr source it's probably best to stop there. In any event you should use the charge that produces the best accuracy and that is usually short of the max charges anyway.
Welcome to the forum, good luck.
Welcome to the wonderful, often confusing/frustrating world of reloading!
If there is any doubt, if you're unsure of load variations from manual to manual, go with the lowest listed (there are legitimate reasons load data varies and it's not a "conspiracy", and none are good nor bad nor "lawyered up".). There is no down side to this, plus it give you more reloading and shooting time (I like reloading and am in no hurry to find the "perfect load"). I'd recommend at least two manuals to start; Lyman's 50th, and a manual from the bullet manufacturer of the bullets you use (if you use Hornady bullets, get the Hornady manual. If you chose Speer bullets, use a Speer manual, etc.). This will get you started on your library, which will grow as your reloading grows...
Go slow, double check, everything, and most important, have fun.
If there is any doubt, if you're unsure of load variations from manual to manual, go with the lowest listed (there are legitimate reasons load data varies and it's not a "conspiracy", and none are good nor bad nor "lawyered up".). There is no down side to this, plus it give you more reloading and shooting time (I like reloading and am in no hurry to find the "perfect load"). I'd recommend at least two manuals to start; Lyman's 50th, and a manual from the bullet manufacturer of the bullets you use (if you use Hornady bullets, get the Hornady manual. If you chose Speer bullets, use a Speer manual, etc.). This will get you started on your library, which will grow as your reloading grows...
Go slow, double check, everything, and most important, have fun.
jaguarxk120
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What Garyl has said about the Lyman manual.
One of the best around.
One of the best around.
Yep. I have numerous manuals and consult them frequently to see how the different data varies as I'm starting a new load.
Lyman Edition 49 and now Edition 50 are good general manuals. Lyman also has a good cast bullet manual.
The bullet manufacturers tend to publish hard bound books which include only their bullets, surprise surprise. These books also have some good "how to" information. They are good to have if you like a particular brand of bullets.
The powder manufacturers generally have on line data sights. They use a smorgasbord of bullets from numerous manufacturers.
Some powder manufacturers publish pamphlets or books containing their powders. Hodgdon publishes a reloading magazine each year. Besides reloading data, it has some good articles.
Alliant publishes a pamphlet that can be had for the asking.
Reloadron
Contributing Member
I believe ArchAngel CD covers it well when he mentions:
I also agree as to the Lyman 49th and 50th being real good sources of information. It's not just about the actual load data but the other wealth of information in the manuals. It's not at all unusual for load manuals to vary slightly from one to the next. Over time the reloader gains experience and wisdom so they better understand the manual guidelines and exactly what is going on.
Ron
I also agree as to the Lyman 49th and 50th being real good sources of information. It's not just about the actual load data but the other wealth of information in the manuals. It's not at all unusual for load manuals to vary slightly from one to the next. Over time the reloader gains experience and wisdom so they better understand the manual guidelines and exactly what is going on.
Ron
badkarmamib
Member
I have a copy of Lyman's 49th. I always start with that. I exclusively use Hodgdon powders (at this time), so I verify with their site
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com
If I am using a new bullet, I will check the manufacturer's site (if available) for a third confirmation. Any discrepancies, and I will look for a fourth source for verification, or stay within the specs of the two closest, if I can't find a fourth.
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com
If I am using a new bullet, I will check the manufacturer's site (if available) for a third confirmation. Any discrepancies, and I will look for a fourth source for verification, or stay within the specs of the two closest, if I can't find a fourth.
Welcome, Timocombo.
There is no one answer to your question. That is, there is no one manual that is the definitive best manual for beginners. As you can see, everyone has a favorite manual that they recommend. Many like the Lyman manual. I prefer the Hornady manual. Others like the one from Lee.
The important thing is that you get at least one published manual and then thoroughly read through the front part that has the instructions on how to properly reload.
And then read it again.
I recommend that everyone create a written step-by-step list of the procedures they are going to follow each time they reload, make copies of the list and then use it as a check-sheet every time you reload. Making sure you don't overlook a step is the easiest way to keep this exciting hobby from turning into a tragedy.
There is no one answer to your question. That is, there is no one manual that is the definitive best manual for beginners. As you can see, everyone has a favorite manual that they recommend. Many like the Lyman manual. I prefer the Hornady manual. Others like the one from Lee.
The important thing is that you get at least one published manual and then thoroughly read through the front part that has the instructions on how to properly reload.
And then read it again.
I recommend that everyone create a written step-by-step list of the procedures they are going to follow each time they reload, make copies of the list and then use it as a check-sheet every time you reload. Making sure you don't overlook a step is the easiest way to keep this exciting hobby from turning into a tragedy.
thomas15
Member
Handloading is like a religion. As with most religions we have our time tested traditions, so this applies to the church of handloading.
Our Tradition mandates that you purchase the Lyman Manual. OK no problem as it's as good a place as any to start.
My advice, go to amazon or ebay and find a used copy of the Lyman 49th edition or a new copy of the 49th with free shipping at about $20.00 soft cover.
Most of the other books are put out by bullet mfg. that showcase their particular bullets. The Lee book showcases their presses and tools. Outside of the Lyman book I personally find the Hornady the most useful but that is just me. As the years go by you will collect more than a few manuals so do yourself a favor and get started now, beat the rush so to speak, collect 'em all.
ON EDIT: I really think that the brethren of the handloaders need a commentary on the Book of Lyman. A project for those in need of something to do.
Our Tradition mandates that you purchase the Lyman Manual. OK no problem as it's as good a place as any to start.
My advice, go to amazon or ebay and find a used copy of the Lyman 49th edition or a new copy of the 49th with free shipping at about $20.00 soft cover.
Most of the other books are put out by bullet mfg. that showcase their particular bullets. The Lee book showcases their presses and tools. Outside of the Lyman book I personally find the Hornady the most useful but that is just me. As the years go by you will collect more than a few manuals so do yourself a favor and get started now, beat the rush so to speak, collect 'em all.
ON EDIT: I really think that the brethren of the handloaders need a commentary on the Book of Lyman. A project for those in need of something to do.
drec
Member
Welcome to the forum.
Like has been mentioned, no one manual is going to is going to be the best manual. I have Lyman, Lee, Speer plus manuals from powder manufacturers. I just picked up a Sierra Bullets manual; which I like as it gives you multiple velocity loads for a lot of different powders. But if you are using different components than what reloading data spells out, then everything is just a guess or compromise. So be careful.
Like has been mentioned, no one manual is going to is going to be the best manual. I have Lyman, Lee, Speer plus manuals from powder manufacturers. I just picked up a Sierra Bullets manual; which I like as it gives you multiple velocity loads for a lot of different powders. But if you are using different components than what reloading data spells out, then everything is just a guess or compromise. So be careful.
thomas15
Member
The way in which the brethren speakest good things of the Lyman book you might get the impression that it contains a set-by-step "how to" roadmap offering direction to load for yourself flawless ammo. Allow me to say that this is not the situation at all. The beginner will not pick up the holy book, read it the required two times then proceedest to maketh himself glorious ammunition. This is not a knock of the Lyman book, no book gives a repeatable step-by-step procedure because there are 1000s of different combinations of components and tooling and there being more than one way to skinith a cat.
A mentor, be he a deacon or priest is a very good thing if you can find one. If not ask your questions here, we will do our best to help the novice brethren in their journey.
I offer a sanity check for you, after reading even once through the intro chapters of any handloading manual it is quite normal for the natural man to think in his heart that the great book is boring. Well, the truth is that the book is in fact boring. You will also find that once you finish and are ready to take that first step of the journey of a thousand steps that you contemplate in your heart the simple question "how do I start, what is the first thing I need to do". Again we stand at the ready to offer guidance in this matter.
A mentor, be he a deacon or priest is a very good thing if you can find one. If not ask your questions here, we will do our best to help the novice brethren in their journey.
I offer a sanity check for you, after reading even once through the intro chapters of any handloading manual it is quite normal for the natural man to think in his heart that the great book is boring. Well, the truth is that the book is in fact boring. You will also find that once you finish and are ready to take that first step of the journey of a thousand steps that you contemplate in your heart the simple question "how do I start, what is the first thing I need to do". Again we stand at the ready to offer guidance in this matter.
badkarmamib
Member
Sorry, I have the record for the dumbest posts... 
As a matter of fact, if you are interested in some "light" reading, here is the thread where I was in the same position...
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=805599
As a matter of fact, if you are interested in some "light" reading, here is the thread where I was in the same position...
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=805599
Last edited:
thomas15
Member
Tim
I'm not noted for being tactful but I have a big heart.
One thing that might not be apparent to you at this stage is that the load manuals give many different loads for a particular bullet. There will be of course different charge amounts of powder and possibly a different seat depth. Also those loads will give an approximate bullet speed in feet per second.
For example, in the Lyman 3rd edition Pistol and Revolver Handbook, it lists for 9mm 125grain Jacketed HPs loads using fast pistol powders like Titegroup and Bullseye and for that same bullet loads using relatively slow pistol powders such as HS-6, Blue Dot and even Accurate Arms #7 (I cannot imagine stuffing 7-8grains of AA#7 in a 9mm shell so that powder must be quite dense). Your success and enjoyment of your reloads depends on your actual gun and what your actual shooting goals are. Obviously pistol shooter that shoots 9mm for IDPA has different goals than the shooter that practices his defensive 357 magnum.
All this to say that just because a manual lists a load doesn't mean that you will find it useful. I made the mistake when I first started handloading and powder was impossible to find, that any powder that was in my manuals would be good so I made a list of those powders and when I saw some in the store I bought it. It took me quite a while to wrap my head around the reality that HS-6 is not for soft shooting 38 special regardless of the fact that the manuals give loads and slow bullet speeds. So define your goals as best you can and assemble components that experience tells us work in those situations.
I'm not noted for being tactful but I have a big heart.
One thing that might not be apparent to you at this stage is that the load manuals give many different loads for a particular bullet. There will be of course different charge amounts of powder and possibly a different seat depth. Also those loads will give an approximate bullet speed in feet per second.
For example, in the Lyman 3rd edition Pistol and Revolver Handbook, it lists for 9mm 125grain Jacketed HPs loads using fast pistol powders like Titegroup and Bullseye and for that same bullet loads using relatively slow pistol powders such as HS-6, Blue Dot and even Accurate Arms #7 (I cannot imagine stuffing 7-8grains of AA#7 in a 9mm shell so that powder must be quite dense). Your success and enjoyment of your reloads depends on your actual gun and what your actual shooting goals are. Obviously pistol shooter that shoots 9mm for IDPA has different goals than the shooter that practices his defensive 357 magnum.
All this to say that just because a manual lists a load doesn't mean that you will find it useful. I made the mistake when I first started handloading and powder was impossible to find, that any powder that was in my manuals would be good so I made a list of those powders and when I saw some in the store I bought it. It took me quite a while to wrap my head around the reality that HS-6 is not for soft shooting 38 special regardless of the fact that the manuals give loads and slow bullet speeds. So define your goals as best you can and assemble components that experience tells us work in those situations.
I can find anything I need online.
http://www.alliantpowder.com/reload...wderlist.aspx&type=1&powderid=25&cartridge=83
http://www.ramshot.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/WesternLoadGuide1-2016_Web-1.pdf
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/
http://load-data.nosler.com/
http://www.barnesbullets.com/load-data/
http://www.hornady.com/support/downloads/load-data
http://www.alliantpowder.com/reload...wderlist.aspx&type=1&powderid=25&cartridge=83
http://www.ramshot.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/WesternLoadGuide1-2016_Web-1.pdf
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/
http://load-data.nosler.com/
http://www.barnesbullets.com/load-data/
http://www.hornady.com/support/downloads/load-data
Probably the most important advice I'd give is to simply ask which loads others have used successfully. No reason to try to re-invent the wheel. You'll find thousands, maybe tens of thousands of different combo's listed in various load manuals. You could spend a lifetime and thousands of dollars in components randomly trying different stuff until you find what works best.
Decide what goal you are trying to reach and simply ask here and on other fourms what combo's have worked for others. I wouldn't load up a combo given to me over the internet without cross checking that load in a manual. But if you ask enough you'll start seeing trends. If a lot of people have had success with "X" bullet with around 35gr of "Y" powder then chances are pretty good it'll work for you. Even though the load is listed in a manual you'll need to start low and work up. The seating depth and exact powder charge etc. might need to be tweaked for best results in your rifle. But you can narrow things down considerably. Every single load that I use is one I borrowed from others.
Decide what goal you are trying to reach and simply ask here and on other fourms what combo's have worked for others. I wouldn't load up a combo given to me over the internet without cross checking that load in a manual. But if you ask enough you'll start seeing trends. If a lot of people have had success with "X" bullet with around 35gr of "Y" powder then chances are pretty good it'll work for you. Even though the load is listed in a manual you'll need to start low and work up. The seating depth and exact powder charge etc. might need to be tweaked for best results in your rifle. But you can narrow things down considerably. Every single load that I use is one I borrowed from others.
dragon813gt
Member
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- Jun 30, 2011
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- 1,137
If you stick w/ it you will find yourself buying every manual you can. I don't know how many books I have on the shelf. I have 54 manuals from powder manufacturers in my Dropbox account. All of them were free online. Some of them are really old so loads are approached w/ caution.
For physical manuals in my possession I use the Lee and Hornady manuals the most. I use Hornday bullets so that's a no brainer. The Lee manual is reprinted data for all the other ones. It's more generic in nature but the chances of you having the exact firearm used for testing are slim. Even if you do the pressures were for that particular gun. And no one shoots test barrels. I've found the Lyman manuals, including the cast bullet handbooks, the least useful. But I still buy every one to add to my library because you never know.
I do not use data posted online. I never post data myself and do not trust people I don't know. Quickload is my guide when going off book.
For physical manuals in my possession I use the Lee and Hornady manuals the most. I use Hornday bullets so that's a no brainer. The Lee manual is reprinted data for all the other ones. It's more generic in nature but the chances of you having the exact firearm used for testing are slim. Even if you do the pressures were for that particular gun. And no one shoots test barrels. I've found the Lyman manuals, including the cast bullet handbooks, the least useful. But I still buy every one to add to my library because you never know.
I do not use data posted online. I never post data myself and do not trust people I don't know. Quickload is my guide when going off book.
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