What should I expect with a SAA Replica?

[21H40]

I'm hoping to get my first SAA replica (Cimarron) in the next week or two, and I was wondering what you more experienced wheel gunners can tell me about working with these.

I've got a bit of experience with 1911's and AR's, but this will be my first SAA.

Where do you recommend looking for references and such?

Thanks!

 

[dfariswheel]

The Cimarron is a top-of-the-line version of the Uberti single actions as made in Italy.
Uberti makes most importers guns, but they will "flex" the finish slightly depending on what price point the importer wants to sell at.
The Cimarron is Uberti's best grade.

It should shoot quite well and accurately.
Whether it's centered on target depends on the gun, you, and the ammo.

These revolvers are quite popular with the Cowboy shooters, and they seem to stand up quite well with appropriate ammo.
They are pretty exact copies of the original 1800's Colt SAA so they aren't intended for really hot ammo.
Stick with standard factory level ammo, and the gun will last just about forever.

 

[Rexster]

_Single Action Sixguns_ by John Taffin is a great reference work, available through normal booksellers. Mike Venturino's book is very good, too, and may be available through normal booksellers, or perhaps only specialty sellers. Just in case you receive the sixgun before reading the book(s), keep in mind that you NEVER should lower the hammer from any position except fully-cocked. Not the safety notch, not half-cock, but FULL cock. SAAs and their replicas will gouge a ring around the cylinder, to tell the whole world that someone has been lowering the hammer from less than full-cock. A ring around the cylinder of most sixguns is normal, but it is NOT normal on SAAs and its copies.

If the hammer is brought back to half-cock for any reason, and there are indeed good reasons to do so, remember to pull the hammer to full-cock before lowering the hammer.

Learn it right in the beginning, and there will be no problems. Of course, there is the issue of leaving the chamber under the hammer empty, for safety. Simple: Pull hammer to half-cock. Load one round, skip the next chamber, load the next four, shut the gate, pull to full cock, and lower the hammer. The empty chamber will be under the hammer.

Verify this by looking at the rear of the cylinder from the SIDE of the weapon, until you get comfortable with the whole procedure. There will be daylight visible through the frame at the right spot.

 

[Rexster]

If firing a shot or two leaves the weapon partially loaded, or cocking the hammer without firing leaves a question as to the weapon's status, restore the empty-under-hammer mode by pulling to half-cock, opening the gate, rotating until the empty chamber is at the gate, then rotating through four clicks before pulling the hammer to full cock. Just like loading, except that you are not dropping fresh rounds into the chambers. Modify as needed when doing a partial reload. This can be done in the dark, or without otherwise looking, entirely by feel.

The idea of an "emergency load" condition, with all chambers hot, is best not done, period, but if for some reason is deemed necessary, or is done accidentally, keep in mind that dropping the weapon often results in it landing on the hammer first, which can cause it to fire. The SAA demands more attention from its user, but if the rules are strictly followed, it can be the safest repeating firearm on the planet.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

The classic SAA accident would occur when saddling a horse. The pistolero would throw the stirrup up in the seat of the saddle while he honked down on the cinch. The stirrup would slide down, hit the man in the hip area, and bang!

Depening on his posture, he would take a serious wound (and usually fatal in those days) in the calf.

 

[21H40]

Great information.. Thanks.

How about spare parts or anticipated lifecycle of the bits and pieces?

 

[Virginian]

I congratulate you on your good taste.
First, thoroughly famaliarize yourself with the weapon; handle it, cock it, lower the hammer, etc. with the gun unloaded. If you have snap caps fire it, but do not do so without snap caps.
If it is timed like all of them I have seen, as long as you bring it to full cock, and do not spin the cylinder and cock it with the cylinder spinning, or lower the hammer and turn the cylinder until it locks, you should not end up with a line around the cylinder. The cylinder bolt normally drops right into the cylinder bolt stop lede.
I would get a set of Wolff springs with the wire trigger return and cylinder bolt spring, because that little flat spring will break, just like Colts do.
If you ever need it, Cimarron has provided good support in my opinion. Both of mine are sweet shooting and pretty accurate with loads they like.

 

[Hawk]

How about spare parts or anticipated lifecycle of the bits and pieces?

Blue threadlocking compound.

I haven't managed to wear one out yet but my Uberti launched its ejector rod assembly downrange (spring loaded - cool!) and a Turnbull Classic had the trigger pivot screw back out - I noticed the Turnbull before it disassembled itself but only barely so.

I can be a bit slow but I think I've finally grasped the importance of a pre-flight check on SAA pattern things.

 

[Omaney]

You'll be very happy with the Cimarron. I had one a few years ago and it was very nice. I only sold it because of ammo cost. Forty-five Colt is expensive and I really wanted something with more punch. BTW I had no trouble selling it.

 

[dagger dog]

Vern ,

If your talking western saddle, the best way is to hook the stirrup over the horn. That way it doesn't flop down and pop you in the head, or worse do what you said!

 

[Colt46]

Cimarron's are top quality

Made by Uberti.
Someone above mentioned single action sixguns by Taffin. Do NOT get that book. It will make you want to aquire more, and more expensive single actions and spend your hard earned cash pimping them out.

Get the .45
God intended SAA's be in that caliber.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

If your talking western saddle, the best way is to hook the stirrup over the horn. That way it doesn't flop down and pop you in the head, or worse do what you said!

Depending on the saddle, that may or may not be possible. And of course McClellan Cavalry saddles didn't have horns -- but they did have heavy iron stirrups.

 

[StrawHat]

Get the .45
God intended SAA's be in that caliber.

I truly enjoy the 45 Long Colt cartridge.

The first Model P was offered to the military in 44 caliber.

The Uberti copy is a good dependable revolver and should last you quite a while.

No mater what parts you stockpile, the one that breaks will be the one you don't have.

Good Luck

 

[SundownRider]

What to expect? You'll want more. At least one to go with your other hand. Then a nice rig to hold 'em, then some custom grips, maybe stag or imitation ivory. Later on, some engraving might be in order.

You'll then find yourself watching the Western channel a lot more and suddenly, you need a lever gun.

Good luck and good choice.

 

[foghornl]

You'll then find yourself watching the Western channel a lot more and suddenly, you need a lever gun.

And then you need the short-barrel external 'dog-ear' hammer side-by-side "Coach Gun" to complete the 3-gun setup.......

I'm not familiar with the Uberti brand of revolvers, but yes if it is a very-near-clone of the original SAA-type....Load it 5-up ONLY...keep that hammer down on the empty chamber when holstered. You absolutely do not want to find out the hard way why this is recommended.

 

[mec]

The wire trigger bold spring is a good accessory. Usually lasts longer and usually lightens the action nicely. The Cimarron "Model P" ubertis have a coil /plunger spring deal to replace the more fragile leaf on the hand.

You should probably avoid uncushioned dry firing as this wallows out the firing pin hole in the breech and eventually primer flow into the enlarged hole will affect functioning Some ubertis have or have had replaceable firing pin bushings like the colt but the cimarrons do not.

Generally the front sights are high enough that the revolvers hit low. If this is the case, you can get the elevation right with a file. Frequently the gun shoots to one side or the other and you either need to bias the rear sight groove or (more often) turn the barrel to correct windage. (Turn the front sight toward the group to move it in the opposit direction.)

the cimarrons usually lock up tight and have good timing. Occasionaly, you might need to eliminate end float by fitting a new bushing. also occasionally, the bolt will drop short of the cylinder notch lead and you will need to get one from cimmaron and fit it. The replacements are a bit oversized and can be adjusted by shortening the leg of the bolt that contacts the hammer. A little bit of end float and /or carry up deficit don't hurt the function or accuracy and the Ubertis are usually as accurate as much more expensive single actions:

 

[21H40]

Taffin's already had some influence through his articles for American Handgunner and Guns magazines... I imagine his books would just remove what resistance I've got left. (unless they've got really nice photos, then they might be good for the wife's resistance )

I've already looked at belts and holsters, and have already begun the hard ethical considerations - should the rifle, shotgun or matched pistol be the next investment? I'm way too excited about this...

Nice picture BTW.

What's considered a "good" group for this kind of pistol? I know the super-taticool 1911's brag about 1.5-2" at 25 meters; how do SAA's compare?

 

[Hawk]

From Gunblast's review of the Texican:


I gather that's not particularly exceptional and well behind what the Freedom Arms will produce.

It'll do.