What to do about removing primer pocket crimp, 223 or any

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ACES&8S

ACES&8S

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Just posted a thread about case length in 223 cases & -Blue68f100- mentioned something
I have always had trouble with, removing factory primer pocket crimp from 223.
I have an RCBS Swager Tool that works most of the time on 30.06 & .308 but it never
has worked on the 223 which I have tons of cases primer crimped & ended up using a
Pocket Reamer on them which is slightly too much.
The Swager Tool just isn't enough & the Reamer is a little to much.
What do you guys do?
I can use the Reamed cases because the primer is snug but not like we are all used to
feeling when we press them in, I also use a sealer on them which probably doesn't grip
any better but gives them a better life span in case they aren't tight enough.
I have shot them in my Rem Tactical & they work fine with no sign of primer release
or any other problem also in my Encore Pistol. I wouldn't shoot them in an AR.
 
Measure the small swage then contact RCBS and explain your problem. They may send you a replacement part for free.

I have the same RCBS tool and have done thousands of 223 cases without any problems.
 
I also use the Dillion Super Swager. Because it is adjusted for length based on the thickness of the head, it helps to sort brass by headstamp. For instance, when I am running hundreds of LC cases through, every time I have trouble getting a case down into proper position, I find it is some other headstamp. But it is very fast to operate and does a great job when adjusted correctly.

The purpose of swaging or reaming is to radius/chamfer the primer pocket opening edge. You are not enlarging the primer pocket diameter, just removing the sharp 90* edge.

A pocket reamer or countersink bit chamfers the edge. You don't need much so just a quick spin does it. When I ream I try for the least amount of chamfer that allows reliable primer seating. The problem with reaming is you have no stop so you need to pay attention and not go too deep. Using a drill press would give you the stop capability, but slows it down a little.

Overall I like swaging over reaming. Reaming hundreds or thousands of cases produces lots of bras shavings and swaging does not. Swaging is fast and precise (relative to depth from case head), no mess. On the other hand the Dillon swager is around $90 I believe. If you are doing thousands of cases over time the swager is pretty handy. If you are doing a few hundred then maybe reaming makes more sense. I tried the RCBS die based swager and can't remember why but I did not like it and instead bought the Dillon swager--sweet!

I think as long as you understand exactly what effect you are trying to accomplish you can determine the best tool for yourself to get there. A lot of handloading is figuring out from all the options what works best for you and your situation and available tools and funds.
 
flashhole said:
Measure the small swage then contact RCBS and explain your problem. They may send you a replacement part for free.

I have the same RCBS tool and have done thousands of 223 cases without any problems.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I`ll do that.
 
Like Fine Figure of a Man, I use a countersink. I chuck it into a table-top drill press and then holding the case between my thumb and index finger, raise the case to contact with the countersink. Once contact is made, move your thumb and index finger in opposite directions to rotate the case and you're done.

It does take a little practice to get the touch just right so that you remove the crimp but don't grind too much of the primer pocket away, but proficiency comes quickly. I can now remove the crimp on 100 cases in about 10 minutes.
 
NWPilgrim said:
I also use the Dillion Super Swager. Because it is adjusted for length based on the thickness of the head, it helps to sort brass by headstamp. For instance, when I am running hundreds of LC cases through, every time I have trouble getting a case down into proper position, I find it is some other headstamp. But it is very fast to operate and does a great job when adjusted correctly.

The purpose of swaging or reaming is to radius/chamfer the primer pocket opening edge. You are not enlarging the primer pocket diameter, just removing the sharp 90* edge.

A pocket reamer or countersink bit chamfers the edge. You don't need much so just a quick spin does it. When I ream I try for the least amount of chamfer that allows reliable primer seating. The problem with reaming is you have no stop so you need to pay attention and not go too deep. Using a drill press would give you the stop capability, but slows it down a little.

Overall I like swaging over reaming. Reaming hundreds or thousands of cases produces lots of bras shavings and swaging does not. Swaging is fast and precise (relative to depth from case head), no mess. On the other hand the Dillon swager is around $90 I believe. If you are doing thousands of cases over time the swager is pretty handy. If you are doing a few hundred then maybe reaming makes more sense. I tried the RCBS die based swager and can't remember why but I did not like it and instead bought the Dillon swager--sweet!

I think as long as you understand exactly what effect you are trying to accomplish you can determine the best tool for yourself to get there. A lot of handloading is figuring out from all the options what works best for you and your situation and available tools and funds.
Click to expand...

In my position funds is not a problem, just that case prep is the least interesting part of reloading
since there can be hundreds or thousands waiting in line & they must be done like perfect!
Like I said the 308 & 30.06 swager works perfect yet it always seems I have an odd problem.
Poor little me.
 
are you sure you are setting the rcbs pocket swager up correctly on the press?
My understanding of it, you get the die in about midway, place a piece of brass up into that die, then run the centering cup up until the press is completely bottomed out, then screw the die in until it touchs firmly. then lower the ram a bit, and turn the die down 1/4 turn further. NOW lock the nut in place. That should yield a proper pocket swage every time.
 
I use an older than dirt RCBS swager. I set it up so that the press handle "cams over" pretty firmly, and they're usually good to go.
I do however, keep a countersink handy as I'm seating primers. Sometimes the primer still resists starting into the pocket, so instead of just pushing harder and probably deforming the primer, I'll break the edge of the pocket slightly with the countersink. Doesn't take much.
 
I'm also using a Dillon Super Swage 600 and it does work well. I have used other methods too including a #2 Philips screw driver. I'm not recommending the screw driver, only mentioning there are many ways to get to the end.

If you already have a Froster case trimmer they have a Chamferring Tool for primer pockets.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/6...r-case-trimmer-primer-pocket-chamferring-tool

IMO, there is no best way. You need to find the way you are comfortable and willing to do over and over.
 
I have used everything from a Dillon 1050 all the way down to a pocket knife. All of them work, some are better than others.
 
I use the Hornady Swagging tool for the LNL-AP. It makes quick work of removing the crimp. You should separate your brass by head stamp before do swagging. Different mfg will have a different web thickness and require some tuning.
 
Another comment - I use both a Redding Ultramag press and a Lee Classic Cast press with the RCBS swager. With the Lee press I contacted RCBS and told them my release cup does not fit over the ram on the Lee press. They sent me a larger release cup for free.

Video comment - His technique works for his press with a cam over feature. If your press does not cam over, like my Lee press, you simply have to make sure the up stroke on the ram fully engages the stop in the die. It's not as difficult as the video made it out to be and you can get really consistent swages.
 
Last edited:
ar-newbie said:
are you sure you are setting the rcbs pocket swager up correctly on the press?
My understanding of it, you get the die in about midway, place a piece of brass up into that die, then run the centering cup up until the press is completely bottomed out, then screw the die in until it touchs firmly. then lower the ram a bit, and turn the die down 1/4 turn further. NOW lock the nut in place. That should yield a proper pocket swage every time.
Click to expand...

Now I am beginning to doubt if I did it right or not, but I did the large primer pockets perfect & watched the
videos on it like the one below.
Maybe I missed something small.
 
Blue68f100 said:
I use the Hornady Swagging tool for the LNL-AP. It makes quick work of removing the crimp. You should separate your brass by head stamp before do swagging. Different mfg will have a different web thickness and require some tuning.
Click to expand...

Isn't it amazing how many head stamps one can end up with & separating them into baggies,
cans, buckets.
 
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