What to look for in a "shooter's" Garand?

[.38 Special]

I may need to spend some stimulus money on a Garand. I'm not sure what to look for, though. I have no interest in collectability or resale value, but would like a reliable and useable example. Things like matching serial numbers or origin of manufacture are completely unimportant, and I am fine with aftermarket parts, refinishing, and that sort of thing. Aside from the CMP - who seem to have been massively affected by Covid - what should I look for, and how do I avoid being taken as a sucker?

 

[JCooperfan1911]

Look for one that’s brown and chambered in .30-06.

Kind of hard to go wrong with any Garand.

 

[.38 Special]

Look for one that’s brown and chambered in .30-06.

Kind of hard to go wrong with any Garand.

Like this one?

 

[1KPerDay]

There's no such thing as "matching serial numbers" in a Garand. The "drawing number" on the right side of the receiver is not a serial number and it will never match the serial number on the rear of the receiver. If you're worried about a potential reweld, you can look up the drawing number and confirm that the range of serial numbers matches up. Other parts are not serialized, so you can try to get "correct" parts for that serial number range and drawing number range, but that's no guarantee they'll work better than the mixmaster parts that are likely in it, particularly if it's been through a rebuild.

The only real way to know if you're getting a "good" M1 is to read up/research and look at every part and understand how they wear, etc. For most people this is too much to learn and it's a good call to say "buy from the CMP" or a CMP rifle from a private seller. The chances are better that you'll get a good functional shooter. If you buy from CMP they will happily fix any issues for you for free.

If you buy from a private seller and have issues, the good news is if you have problems you can still find GI parts in good shape and you can usually just keep swapping parts until you find the combination that works. However, these are not ARs. There's a delicate and complicated dance going on inside the guts and each part has multiple tasks and can influence multiple aspects of functioning. My CMP Garands have been supremely reliable during relatively hard use in dusty conditions. I've had some functioning issues with my Fed Ord 16" "tanker" but that's to be expected with these hack jobs. My Blue Sky is among my most accurate Garands. guess I got lucky on that one.

People will probably tell you to avoid Federal Ordnance and Blue Sky imports, and this is probably good advice generally.

 

[BreechFace]

Check @jwxspoon for his Garand he has for sale.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/wts-m1-garand-fl.884815/

Buy with confidence he’s a stand up guy.

Otherwise get a membership with the CMP and order one of theirs.

 

[AK103K]

If youre buying from a private seller, or anyone else for that matter, look down the bore and at the part of the op rod you can see in the front handguard when the bolt is closed and as you pull the op rod back. If it looks dirty, dont buy it unless you run a patch through it and the bore looks good.

Ive had two in the past that looked "dirty" when bought (for some reason, a lot of people don't like to clean their guns), that turned out to have been shot with corrosive ammo and put away dirty for what must have been an extended period of time. Those dirty bores never cleaned up, and both guns were shooting around 12"-15" at 100 yards.

Both guns looked great otherwise too, with nice wood and decent finishes.

I also had a 308 match gun that must have ended up being re-barreled for a similar reason. The op rod showed the same/similar corrosion the others had, although it wasn't quite as bad. That gun was a shooter too.

There are lots of good guns out there, and probably an equal amount of not so good, for various reasons and what your eye might tell you.

If you get one, get yourself a SLED and understand what it is and why you want to use it. The M1 is a good gun, but it also has its own little quirks you really need to know about and understand. Especially if you reload. Pay attention and do your homework.

 

[CapnMac]

Things like matching serial numbers or origin of manufacture are completely unimportant, and I am fine with aftermarket parts, refinishing, and that sort of thing. Aside from the CMP - who seem to have been massively affected by Covid - what should I look for, and how do I avoid being taken as a sucker?

Well, you are in luck, as the only serial number on a Garand is the one on the receiver heel.
One of the under-sung victories of WWII is that US arms achieved such a high level of inter-changeability that they did not need to be serialized to a single firearm.

You are going to be hard pressed to find a better deal than a Rack Grade from CMP.

Buying one off GB, Armslist, or a gun show is just a crapshoot.

 

[FLIGHT762]

Learn how to spot a re-welded receiver if you buy from a gun shop or private seller. I got duped by one many years ago when I was young and dumb. If you buy from CMP, you won't have to worry about it.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

There's no such thing as "matching serial numbers" in a Garand. The "drawing number" on the right side of the receiver is not a serial number and it will never match the serial number on the rear of the receiver. If you're worried about a potential reweld, you can look up the drawing number and confirm that the range of serial numbers matches up. Other parts are not serialized, so you can try to get "correct" parts for that serial number range and drawing number range, but that's no guarantee they'll work better than the mixmaster parts that are likely in it, particularly if it's been through a rebuild.

The only real way to know if you're getting a "good" M1 is to read up/research and look at every part and understand how they wear, etc. For most people this is too much to learn and it's a good call to say "buy from the CMP" or a CMP rifle from a private seller. The chances are better that you'll get a good functional shooter. If you buy from CMP they will happily fix any issues for you for free.

If you buy from a private seller and have issues, the good news is if you have problems you can still find GI parts in good shape and you can usually just keep swapping parts until you find the combination that works. However, these are not ARs. There's a delicate and complicated dance going on inside the guts and each part has multiple tasks and can influence multiple aspects of functioning. My CMP Garands have been supremely reliable during relatively hard use in dusty conditions. I've had some functioning issues with my Fed Ord 16" "tanker" but that's to be expected with these hack jobs. My Blue Sky is among my most accurate Garands. guess I got lucky on that one.

People will probably tell you to avoid Federal Ordnance and Blue Sky imports, and this is probably good advice generally.

Both mine and my Dads are Blue Sky guns and they have been flawless. I did disassemble and thoroughly inspect them before shooting, though.

Also, both have Garand Gear ported gas plugs now, and are restricted to appropriate 150gr. ammo.

 

[az_imuth]

Unless you know what to look for, I would certainly go through CMP. If there is an issue, they will make it right. Either get a service grade rifle, or one of the special grades that has been reworked by CMP. There are numerous Garands out on the open market that have been pieced together from parts. The folks that put them together are very good and you would not notice the welds unless you knew what to look for. Go CMP and get a certificate to show that yours came from a government arsenal.

 

[ApacheCoTodd]

-Check throat erosion.
-Check muzzle erosion.
-Check for corrosive ammo pitting - bore and gas system.
-GI barrel or known alternative.
-No rewelded; receiver or op-rod.
-Note the bolt held to the rear when un-loaded.
-Try to have a safe opportunity to determine that it will individually feed all 8 rounds of a clip and eject the clip successfully at the end and not before.
-Learn to check that the op-rod doesn't want to migrate out of the receiver whether you cycle over-hand or under-hand.


Todd.

 

[GooseGestapo]

Never, never EVER drop the slide on a chambered or round lying loose in receiver. A slam fire can result. Potentially a BAD experience. The receiver can be cracked, stock busted, and pieces of brass imbed in you!

Always use a single shot adapter, or a 2,5, or 8 shot clip.

I inherited about 50 from my older brother who shot NRA high power in the ‘80’s.
His was a Blue Sky that was rebarreled with a Douglas XX match barrel and NM front sight and rear aperture.
My Garand is a CMP Special w/Criterion barrel I picked up to shoot J.C. Garand matches. Both are tackdrivers with match grade ammo. Under 2moa.

 

[P5 Guy]

I may need to spend some stimulus money on a Garand. I'm not sure what to look for, though. I have no interest in collectability or resale value, but would like a reliable and useable example. Things like matching serial numbers or origin of manufacture are completely unimportant, and I am fine with aftermarket parts, refinishing, and that sort of thing. Aside from the CMP - who seem to have been massively affected by Covid - what should I look for, and how do I avoid being taken as a sucker?

The CMP is your best source. A service grade Springfield would be my suggestion. Depending on your state/local gun laws getting home delivery avoids virus concern. I've not heard of any problems involving mail order M1s, the stores are limiting folks to enforce social distancing but mail orders are going pretty much as usual.

 

[Garandimal]

I may need to spend some stimulus money on a Garand. I'm not sure what to look for, though. I have no interest in collectability or resale value, but would like a reliable and useable example. Things like matching serial numbers or origin of manufacture are completely unimportant, and I am fine with aftermarket parts, refinishing, and that sort of thing. Aside from the CMP - who seem to have been massively affected by Covid - what should I look for, and how do I avoid being taken as a sucker?

Your first stop should be to the CMP site.

Service Grade M1 rifles - are currently $750 delivered.

These are no risk rifles, backed by the CMP armory.

Have bought them for a decade - never dissatisfied, and generally overjoyed.

​

GR

 

[Elkins45]

My $635 CMP field grade (2017) is one of the smarter gun buys I’ve made. 1942 Springfield and a super quality shooter. When I opened the case I was very pleasantly surprised by the quality of both the wood and metal. It made me glad I didn’t spend the extra for a service grade.

 

[HankC]

check that the op-rod doesn't want to migrate out of the receiver whether you cycle over-hand or under-hand.

I bought 4 Garands from CMP 4 yrs ago and 2 had Op Rod tabs worn out of spec, I sent them back to CMP for replacement. One would jump out of the track in firing, triggered me to check them all. Easy fix with a tig weld, so not really big deal. One of the 2 replacements received was still bit out of spec but not to a point of "reject" and did fine in my Garand, so I did not bother CMP again.

 

[HankC]

My $635 CMP field grade (2017) is one of the smarter gun buys I’ve made. 1942 Springfield and a super quality shooter. When I opened the case I was very pleasantly surprised by the quality of both the wood and metal. It made me glad I didn’t spend the extra for a service grade.

Nice looking Hackberry stock. Mine were field grade also, Service grade have walnut stock. I start to really like the hackberry wood grain. I refinished mine with stain.

 

[Garandimal]

My $635 CMP field grade (2017) is one of the smarter gun buys I’ve made. 1942 Springfield and a super quality shooter. When I opened the case I was very pleasantly surprised by the quality of both the wood and metal. It made me glad I didn’t spend the extra for a service grade.

Very nice rifle.

Some of the Field Grades are pretty high... and the Service Grades a little on the low side on occasion.

What were the bore numbers?


All but one of my Service Grades have been ME < 1.0/ TE < 2.0, the exception bein' a Six-digit, w/ a 1.0/ 3.0 '44 re-Bbl.




GR

 

[Reloadron]

Unless you know what to look for, I would certainly go through CMP.

Unless you are very well versed in the M1 Garand or have a friend who is it is easy to get burned. During the early90s I worked on them extensively and refurbished and barreled quite a few. Still have a bucket of parts. Walking the gun shows I always carry a ME (Muzzle Erosion) and TE (Throat Erosion) gauge. I had no problem asking a seller if I could field strip the gun before I would consider buying it. You can put lipstick on a pig but it's still a pig holds true. I am surprised at what they are going for right now. When you deal with the CMP you get a good rifle ready to shoot out of the box. Should there be a problem they are right there for you.

The rifle itself is a pretty complex machine making it real difficult to tell you what to look for. Enjoy whatever you get.

Ron

 

[swede4198]

If you want one that will out live you and your children get a CMP Special in either .30-06 or .308. They refurbish the receiver, put a new barrel and stock on it and all the other pieces are either refurbished or replaced with new. I went this way for a shooter and my receiver was made in June 1941 and the rifle is very tight and easily hits USPSA steel targets at 400 yards. It is the closest to a new M1 as you can get.