What trigger upgrades are there for a G26/G27?

[hometheaterman]

So I really am a fan of the Glock G26's as well as the G27's. Mostly the G27. My one thing that I don't like about them is they all seem to have a very long and heavy trigger pull. I like a trigger that breaks as soon as I pull it. I don't want half an inch of travel before the trigger breaks like on these guns. I find myself pulling the trigger halfway back and just holding it there then pulling it. They also have a really heavy trigger. What are the best upgrades to do to fix these two things. Any recommendations?

 

[easyg]

This is strange....

I have never heard of the stock 5.5 lbs. Glock trigger referred to as anything approaching "heavy".
It's lighter than the vast majority of non single-action pistols on the market.

I don't think Glocks have a long trigger-pull either.

Still, if you prefer a lighter trigger, there's always the 3.5 connector available from Lone Wolf (among other makers).
It is very easy to install and will make the trigger pull about 4 lbs.

 

[toivo]

I'm thinking that on a striker-fired pistol that doesn't have a safety, a light trigger with no take-up is a ND waiting to happen. Is this a carry gun for you?

I wouldn't do it, but I'm an old fart and a wimp.

 

[hometheaterman]

I guess I'm just used to a lighter trigger on rifles and have gotten spoiled by them. I've not shot any other pistols with a lighter trigger pull that I know of, but they all still feel pretty heavy to me.

As for the trigger pull, the ones I've seen literally have about half an inch of travel you can pull back before you feel the trigger get hard. If you pull it back about half an inch and hold it there right where it's hard then the trigger breaks right when you pull it again. I'm not sure I'm explaining this correctly or even so it makes sense, but basically there seems to be about .5" of travel before the trigger breaks on the G26's and G27's I've seen or shot. Maybe this is normal for pistols too. I'm not sure as I'm not a big pistol shooter.

So have I gotten spoiled by a rifle with a nice trigger? Or can you make the Glock triggers more like that? I really like the trigger to go off whenever you pull it back at all. I don't want it to have any travel in it really. I think the 3.5 connector may be the answer to the trigger being a little on the heavy side.

 

[hometheaterman]

I'm thinking that on a striker-fired pistol that doesn't have a safety, a light trigger with no take-up is a ND waiting to happen. Is this a carry gun for you?

I wouldn't do it, but I'm an old fart and a wimp.

My thought is that it still would have the trigger safety though so it couldn't go off unless you pulled that. Either way, maybe the heavier trigger is okay, but I wouldn't want the trigger pull on them. For me I end up pulling the gun when squeezing the trigger when I have a heavy trigger with a long pull. That in turn makes my groups open up quite a bit.

The only pistol I've shot that I liked the trigger slightly more was a Ruger, but even it didn't seem that spectacular to me. I guess maybe I'm spoiled by rifles.

 

[duns]

In an ideal world, we would keep our finger off the trigger till the decision has been made to shoot and the gun aimed. In the real world, the finger may come onto the trigger before the decision to shoot has been made and quite probably before the gun is properly aimed. I suppose that the stock trigger is designed to be heavy enough that it takes a conscious effort to pull it and the gun is unlikely to go off because of a stress-induced twitchy finger. I wouldn't mess with it on a self-defense gun because you might let off a round without meaning to. You would also run the risk that your SD shooting could be represented in court as a negligent discharge.

 

[Sapper771]

Try the Glockworx Fulcrum trigger kits. They are adjustable for pre-travel and over travel. I bought one for my G21SF and adjusted it for minimal pre-travel without compromising the drop safety(plunger). It was a very nice setup. Depending on which kit you purchase, the full kit comes with a fluted striker, lighter springs, and a polished connector which brings the pull weight down significantly.

There are other ways to remove pre-travel, but they are not always reliable.

 

[easyg]

Well, this got me curious enough to check out some comparable pistols...


Trigger-pull weight in lbs:

Glock 19 = 5.5
Sig P229 DA/SA = 10/4.4
Sig P229 DAK = 6.5
Sig P250 = 5.5-6.5
HK P30 V0 and V1 LEM = 4.5
HK P30 V2 LEM = 7.3
HK P30 V4 LEM = 6.2
HK P30 V6 DAO = 8.8
HK P2000 DAO = 7.87
Springfield XDm = 5.5-7.7
S&W M&P9c = 6.5
Walther PPS 9mm = 6.1
Walther P99QA = 8
Walther P99AS = 11/5


It seems that most have very similar trigger-pulls, so yeah, you might be spoiled by the rifles you happen to shoot.

 

[Taurus 617 CCW]

There's plenty of people that shoot IDPA and GSSF with stock Glocks and they are still doing great. I used to have a 3.5 lb connector in my Glock but I now use a stock trigger set up for concealed carry. Trigger control is more important than the weight of the trigger or the length of the trigger pull. Since you said that you are not as familiar with pistols I would suggest doing lots of dry fire practice with your Glock while maintaining the sights on a target. Check out this article on trigger pull. It will give you a better idea of what to pay attention to.

http://www.chuckhawks.com/trigger_pull.htm

 

[hometheaterman]

Thanks for the links guys. I guess I just need to get in more practice with pistols in general and try to get used to the trigger pull.

 

[average_shooter]

If you're looking for a 1911-like trigger pull on a Glock you're not going to get it. For example, in a 1911 all pulling the trigger does is release the hammer but in a Glock pulling the trigger has to finish "cocking" the pistol. With a Glock the striker is only half-cocked until you pull the trigger. Pulling the trigger brings the striker back the rest of the way and releases it.

 

[daveit]

I wouldn't want a hair trigger on what is essentially a carry gun. Do you use it for competition?

 

[Red Cent]

Interesting. I just went through this when I bought a G34.
I can put a 2# trigger on your Glock with no pretravel. No creep.You can use it for bullseye or USPSA. Too dangerous for anything else. You cancel out the firing pin safety and the "dropped gun" safety when you cancel the pretravel. I set mine up for IDPA. 2# trigger, usual pretravel. The tune up takes most of the resistance out in the pretravel and the remaining pull distance is not over two pounds. Mine has an over travel stop also.
The trigger bar performs couple of functions. A "tab" sticking straight up on the front of the trigger bar is slanted and as you pull the trigger, it raises a solid small cylinder that is grooved. At the point of firing this groove is lined up so as to allow the firing pin/striker to travel to the primer. At the same time a "tab" on the cruciform (the rear of the trigger bar.) rides in a slot and at the time of firing, the slot is cut away from the bottom allowing the sear/crucifrom to drop away from the striker and the firing pin zooms forward. I looked for every way possible to accomplish what you want.You would have to re-engineer the trigger bar to do this and you still may do away with a safety.
I, too, have some 1911s. A couple have 2# triggers, no creep, glass breaking. After some practice you learn to take up the slack and on repeat shots, you "ride the reset".
Find out different let us know.

 

[Red Cent]

Interesting. I just went through this when I bought a G34.
I can put a 2# trigger on your Glock with no pretravel. No creep.You can use it for bullseye or USPSA. Too dangerous for anything else. You cancel out the firing pin safety and the "dropped gun" safety when you cancel the pretravel. I set mine up for IDPA. 2# trigger, usual pretravel. The tune up takes most of the resistance out in the pretravel and the remaining pull distance is not over two pounds. Mine has a over travel stop also.
The trigger bar performs couple of functions. A "tab" sticking straight up on the front of the trigger bar is slanted and as you pull the trigger, it raises a solid small cylinder that is grooved. At the point of firing this groove is lined up so as to allow the firing pin/striker to travel to the primer. At the same time a "tab" on the cruciform (the rear of the trigger bar.) rides in a slot and at the time of firing, the slot is cut away from the bottom allowing the sear/crucifrom to drop away from the striker and the firing pin zooms forward. I looked for every way possible to accomplish what you want.You would have to re-engineer the trigger bar to do this and you still may do away with a safety.
I, too, have some 1911s. A couple have 2# triggers, no creep, glass breaking. After some practice you learn to take up the slck and on repeat shots, you "ride the reset".
Find out different let us know.

 

[Red Cent]

....
http://www.sniperworld.com/content.aspx?ckey=sniper_world_glock_index