I just bought a new 12FLV 22-250 and want to keep the barrel in tip top shape as it should be a tack driver. i have not shot it yet as i am waiting for my Weaver Grand Slam 6x20 to show up on monday. Any way what is a good copper solvent. I have used sweets 62 but am out of it and have a new jar of gunslick copper solvent. I have not tried it yet however. What are your thoughts
Whats a good copper solvent?
- Thread starter kgpcr
- Start date
- Status
QUICK_DRAW_McGRAW
Member
i use sweets on my mosin and it works great, but also use my hops copper solvent in everything.
Don't Tread On Me
Member
Tipton's
Stuff should be a chemical weapon.
Stuff should be a chemical weapon.
I prefer Barnes, but the Gunslick stuff dissolves copper the way you want it. I used it to break in a new Rem 700 barrel in January. It works perfectly good, even though Barnes is stronger and works faster.
Brand new barrel? Go to the Ed Brown rifle website http://www.edbrown.com/cgi-bin/start.cgi/customrifles.htm and scroll down to the bottom. Click on the button that says View/Print Owner's Manual. At the end of the manual it has a procedure for rifle barrel break in. It will make the barrel as accurate as that particular barrel can be. Of course, some barrels are more accurate than others. But that break-in procedure will make sure yours gets the best accuracy it is capable of producing.
Be sure to have at least two boxes of ammo. The procedure is a pain and it takes 40 to 50 rounds, but it works.
Brand new barrel? Go to the Ed Brown rifle website http://www.edbrown.com/cgi-bin/start.cgi/customrifles.htm and scroll down to the bottom. Click on the button that says View/Print Owner's Manual. At the end of the manual it has a procedure for rifle barrel break in. It will make the barrel as accurate as that particular barrel can be. Of course, some barrels are more accurate than others. But that break-in procedure will make sure yours gets the best accuracy it is capable of producing.
Be sure to have at least two boxes of ammo. The procedure is a pain and it takes 40 to 50 rounds, but it works.
35 Whelen
Member
Best Copper Remover
If this doesn't sell you, nothing will!
http://www.kgcoatings.com/KG-12 test results.pdf
i ordered some from Midway after seeing this test.
35W
If this doesn't sell you, nothing will!
http://www.kgcoatings.com/KG-12 test results.pdf
i ordered some from Midway after seeing this test.
35W
Cesiumsponge
Member
I always question "tests" done by the company that sells the product. I have several bottles of copper solvent including KG-12, Sweets, and CR-10.
Personally I use those in no particular order and I don't notice a huge difference. They all seem to work for me.
Personally I use those in no particular order and I don't notice a huge difference. They all seem to work for me.
sublimaze41
Member
I rather like Barnes. Works well, decent price, and it stinks so bad you just know it's working.
35 Whelen
Member
<QUOTE> I always question "tests" done by the company that sells the product. I have several bottles of copper solvent including KG-12, Sweets, and CR-10.
Personally I use those in no particular order and I don't notice a huge difference. They all seem to work for me. <QUOTE>
The test was performed by a distributor. If I were a distributor, I would want to sell what works. Wouldn't you? I would assume that is why they performed the test. And actually, it's a very simple test. Surely someone on the boards who had a few different types of copper solvent could try it themselves. I only have one brand at the time, but as soon as my KG-12 comes in I may try it.
35W
Personally I use those in no particular order and I don't notice a huge difference. They all seem to work for me. <QUOTE>
The test was performed by a distributor. If I were a distributor, I would want to sell what works. Wouldn't you? I would assume that is why they performed the test. And actually, it's a very simple test. Surely someone on the boards who had a few different types of copper solvent could try it themselves. I only have one brand at the time, but as soon as my KG-12 comes in I may try it.
35W
Correct. But any abrasive will also be abrasive to steel. And because every single stroke of a long, flexible rod cannot be perfectly straight and even (not in my hands anyway 
) I avoid the use of abrasives unless there is no other choice, if only to avoid accelerated wear at the chamber mouth/throat and crown.
) I avoid the use of abrasives unless there is no other choice, if only to avoid accelerated wear at the chamber mouth/throat and crown.jpwilly
Member
Sweets 7.62 bore solvent works great and is used by many ppc shooters ect. Also JB's bore cleaner works well too (after the sweets) Some #9 works on carbon fouling but not on copper.
30Cal
Member
Sure it does. Leave it in 10-15min-->green/blue patches.
50 Shooter
member
Boretech's Eliminator copper solvent, no ammonia in it so it's safe to use inside your house. http://www.boretech.com/introducing.htm
P-32
Member
Markbo......this is why they make a bore guide. I use JB's when I think my service rifle needs it and have not noticed any decrease in points.
bogie
Member
Guys, at benchrest matches,the predominant solvent is Butch's Bore Shine. And we like 'em clean and shiny. If I was going to pick the _only_ solvent I'd get to use, it'd be the one.
50 Shooter - that boretech looks interesting. How does it do on everyting else? Thinking along the lines of lead and carbon deposits on revolvers.
P-32: Absolutely correct. And if more people used them and knew how to use them correctly it would never be an issue... but I have seen it many, many times as I am sure you have.
bogie - I use Butch's Bore Shine almost exclusively, except when obvious copper deposits are the culprit, then I use Sweets. Overall it is a great cleaner, but I have never noticed it being THAT good on copper. Then again the vast majority of my shooting is lead bullets. Extended range sessions with rifles typically is only testing loads.
What do you find at matches mostly anyway? Carbon buildup first or copper? I would think in benchrest guns that are highly polished copper would have a hard time building up unless you are at an extended shooting session and can't stop to clean. My experience with copper is almost exclusively with AR's.
P-32: Absolutely correct. And if more people used them and knew how to use them correctly it would never be an issue... but I have seen it many, many times as I am sure you have.
bogie - I use Butch's Bore Shine almost exclusively, except when obvious copper deposits are the culprit, then I use Sweets. Overall it is a great cleaner, but I have never noticed it being THAT good on copper. Then again the vast majority of my shooting is lead bullets. Extended range sessions with rifles typically is only testing loads.
What do you find at matches mostly anyway? Carbon buildup first or copper? I would think in benchrest guns that are highly polished copper would have a hard time building up unless you are at an extended shooting session and can't stop to clean. My experience with copper is almost exclusively with AR's.
bogie
Member
It's a mix, really... You'll get a carbon ring ahead of the chamber, along with some copper plating. This is with select match barrels, with under a thousand rounds through them. Keep in mind that we're spankin' the things pretty hard - A 6ppc pushing a 68 grain bullet at 3450 fps - do not try that in a "factory" rifle like a Sako...
It's amazing what you'll see with a bore scope. You get most of the nastiness at the chamber end, but you'll get copper all the way...
If Butch's shows green, that means it's doing copper.
I tend to use plenty when brushing, and let it set 15 minutes or so.
It's amazing what you'll see with a bore scope. You get most of the nastiness at the chamber end, but you'll get copper all the way...
If Butch's shows green, that means it's doing copper.
I tend to use plenty when brushing, and let it set 15 minutes or so.
BsChoy
Member
I use sweets alot but recently found Gunslick Copper kleenz...it has a pleasant smell and doesn't seem to work at first but when the patches dry some they ar e a great blue color
tjj
Member
I now use Montana Extremes Bore Solvent. While working on a buddy's 243 that was fouling badly I put a wet patch in and let it set for a few minutes and it came out as blue as fountain pen ink. (for those of you that remember what that was)
Anyway it works great.
Anyway it works great.
gunnerh
Member
I agree with tjj Montana Extremes is good stuff on badly plated bores. The smell however limits it use to outdoors only. In the past I have used non-sudsing ammonia with good results.
04JRB
Member
what worked well for me
I know this is an older thread but I recently had to remove several layers of copper fouling in a couple of rifles and tried several products after recomendations on this site.
I originally used Hoppes Benchrest copper solvent. It did o.k. for mild fouling if I left the bore wet overnight. But it seemed to build up faster than I could take it out in my .223, which seems to foul pretty quickly.
I tried CR-10 from Barnes, wow, this stuff will clear your sinuses and your copper fouling really well. I always thought soak time was needed for proper disolve time, but you can only use this product for 15 minutes before you must attend to it. I wore some rubber gloves with this as it is a very strong ammonia based solvent. It worked very well.
Butches Bore Shine. It worked almost exactly as the CR-10, without the time limitations according to the directions. Anything that comes in a glass bottle and then packaged in a plastic container for fumes must be good is what the guy at the sportsmans warehouse told me, he was right. I put the gloves on again for this one. This product worked as well as CR-10 with a few less limitations (time).
Wipe out foaming. This is something I will certainly buy again, it worked great, without dealing without the awful fumes too. Very minimal work on my end, just let the foam do the work. At first the can seemed over presurized and I got foam all over the place. But after I got a good seal around the nozzle and got a feel for the "trigger", all was well. Great product I will definately be using this again.
Bore Tech Elemininator by gunslick. I bought this at the same time as the wipeout because I wasnted to go home with at least one that would work. This product, IIRC, was not ammonia based and not toxic and I had doubts. This worked as good as the wipe out. Same amounnt of effort to work with too. It was a more cost effective purchase, bigger can for not much more than the wipe out. Worked great. I will be using this again too.
Last but absolutely not least, Sweets 7.62. It was similar to the CR-10, and was very effective on the copper fouling. It was also limited by working time, but like CR-10, does exactly what its supposed to in that time frame. If I get some tough to remove fouling that the foams wont get the first time, this will be my go to black skull and crossbones bottle. I wore the gloves with this one too, as it seemed pretty toxic like the other ammonia based solvents.
Maybee this will help someone who was in my situation who is looking for a copper solvent and thinking of trying a new product. Everybody has their favorite method and product, and this is what worked on my rifles. All in all, I would say that all the products except the Hoppes Benchrest (because it takes soo long IMO), are good recommendations. I think the foam products are what I will continue with as they dont require a lot of work to use, no fumes, I can soak the bore overnight, and no spills to worry about.
I know this is an older thread but I recently had to remove several layers of copper fouling in a couple of rifles and tried several products after recomendations on this site.
I originally used Hoppes Benchrest copper solvent. It did o.k. for mild fouling if I left the bore wet overnight. But it seemed to build up faster than I could take it out in my .223, which seems to foul pretty quickly.
I tried CR-10 from Barnes, wow, this stuff will clear your sinuses and your copper fouling really well. I always thought soak time was needed for proper disolve time, but you can only use this product for 15 minutes before you must attend to it. I wore some rubber gloves with this as it is a very strong ammonia based solvent. It worked very well.
Butches Bore Shine. It worked almost exactly as the CR-10, without the time limitations according to the directions. Anything that comes in a glass bottle and then packaged in a plastic container for fumes must be good is what the guy at the sportsmans warehouse told me, he was right. I put the gloves on again for this one. This product worked as well as CR-10 with a few less limitations (time).
Wipe out foaming. This is something I will certainly buy again, it worked great, without dealing without the awful fumes too. Very minimal work on my end, just let the foam do the work. At first the can seemed over presurized and I got foam all over the place. But after I got a good seal around the nozzle and got a feel for the "trigger", all was well. Great product I will definately be using this again.
Bore Tech Elemininator by gunslick. I bought this at the same time as the wipeout because I wasnted to go home with at least one that would work. This product, IIRC, was not ammonia based and not toxic and I had doubts. This worked as good as the wipe out. Same amounnt of effort to work with too. It was a more cost effective purchase, bigger can for not much more than the wipe out. Worked great. I will be using this again too.
Last but absolutely not least, Sweets 7.62. It was similar to the CR-10, and was very effective on the copper fouling. It was also limited by working time, but like CR-10, does exactly what its supposed to in that time frame. If I get some tough to remove fouling that the foams wont get the first time, this will be my go to black skull and crossbones bottle. I wore the gloves with this one too, as it seemed pretty toxic like the other ammonia based solvents.
Maybee this will help someone who was in my situation who is looking for a copper solvent and thinking of trying a new product. Everybody has their favorite method and product, and this is what worked on my rifles. All in all, I would say that all the products except the Hoppes Benchrest (because it takes soo long IMO), are good recommendations. I think the foam products are what I will continue with as they dont require a lot of work to use, no fumes, I can soak the bore overnight, and no spills to worry about.
possum
Member
hoppes or shooters choice for me.
Savage Shooter
Member
I have a savage 12fv and all i trust is hoppes #9
- Status
