What's your powder measure technique?

[Gtscotty]

Ok, in my quest to streamline my rifle reloading, I decided to pick up a decent powder measure with the hopes of having enough consistency to be able to throw most of my charges directly into the case, instead of weighing each one. I just got my Redding 3BR set up, and I want to start seeing what kind of consistency I can get out of it this weekend.

I got to thinking though, I kind of just made up a technique for my Lee thrower, so I'm curious what techniques other folks have found to deliver the most consistent charge weights from a powder measure?

Up until now, I have been leaving the measure cylinder in the full position between throws, have not been tapping either the cylinder at the end of its travel, or the hopper.

What position do you like to leave the measure in between throws? Do you do some kind of tapping regime you use between throws to settle powder? How fast do you cycle the drum, and how do you deal with chopping stick powders?

 

[Shaq]

I don't tap anything on the measure. I try to use the same speed & force on each throw - about one half second up & one half second down. The handle is always left down between throws. The only powders I use that sometimes don't run smoothly are Unique & Trail Boss. When the handle jams, I'll toss that load back in the hopper.

 

[daboone]

I have collected 7 different powder measures. Each one is an entity unto itself and has powders it works well with and some that it doesn't. Sadly I don't have the Redding 3BR, yet.

Ball powders don't require any special technique with any of these measures except the PPM. While it's accurate will leak very fine ball powders.

Flake powders are fickled depending on the measure use. The Lyman 55, Harrell Schuetzen, Lee Auto Drum and Lee Classic are very consistent with flakes and don't require any fidgeting.

Stick/extruded powders come in long and short. The short forms are much nicer to deal with but usually require longer fill time. The PPM, Lee Auto Drum, Lee Classic and the B&M all are consistent with powders like 4895. The JDS Quick Measure is the only one that I have that is consistently reliable with long extruded/stick powders like IMR4350.
Stick powders used in large rifle cases exceeding 40 grains need to be keep in perspective. A .4 grain variance is just 1% and even less if you're in the 50+ grain loads.

 

[FROGO207]

I use an Ideal 55 for most of my reloading of difficult propellants. The biggest key to a good drop is to develop a technique that works best for you and be boringly repetitive. Practicing drops and weighing them until happy with the results with a difficult to use propellant is a good way to do it. If I have problems with the load I will make a custom scoop from a suitable piece of brass or a recalibrated/customized Lee scoop. I generally start with a light charge and trickle up until I am satisfied the load is good and test it thoroughly. Then I make the scoop, calibrated to that result.

When using a measure a baffle in the hopper is a good idea. My Pacific (Hornaday now) measure works better with a home made baffle about 3/4 the way down and the hopper mostly full. Google your measure and baffle, you will get several home made options to try. Also some use an aquarium air pump or such item to settle the propellant for accuracy but I have never tried this method personally as I get good results with my methods I use presently.

 

[hdbiker]

I use a RCBS Uni Flow and adjust it to drop charges about 1/2 grain light in the scale pan. I them put the pan on scale and trickle up to desired charge.I then charge the case and seat the bullet.That might seem slow but I've been loading for 6 rifles and 5 handguns for years without a mistake. hdbiker

 

[Bartojc]

For rifle I have a similar process as hdbiker. I use a dipper to throw a charge in a scale pan. I then trickle up to my desired weight, and then put into each case. One at a time slow and easy. For rifle I never do more than 20-5o at a time so it's really not that bad. Sometime I charge one round and seat directly after, or if I'm doing a batch I'll charge all using a loading block, and then seat all.

Exception to this process is .223. I charge those on press using Lee Auto Drum measure. I measure every 10th or so charge and so far it's never been off more than .1, and seldom ever off.

-Jeff

 

[conrad427]

I have a UniFlow, but that Redding you bought sounds nice!

I added a baffle, keep the powder in the measure at about the same level throughout the whole string, topping off when needed.

I never clean it, once it gets the graphite coating on everything, there is little to no static build up, and that helps with consistency.

Make double sure the lock ring is set tight, I have had the screw back out and start throwing heavier charges. Recheck it after you tighten it down.

I do not tap on the up stroke, but run the lever smartly, making sure it goes all the way to the stop, sorta like a tap, but only once.

I tap a couple of times on the down stroke, just enough to make sure that the cavity is empty. I have seen powder cling to the cavity and screw up consistency. Just make sure no to stroke the handle too far as you will be adding powder each time you "tap".

Doing that simple process, I never need to trickle powder. It is seldom off a tenth. Granted, that is with fine grain powder.

For stick or LOG powder, it might take a little tapping on the up stroke to get the powder to settle enough to be consistent. Either tap or dont tap. Do it the same each time. If you set your measure with out tapping on the up stroke and then start tapping when throwing charges they charges will often be heavier. A consistent technique is key.

The extruded powders feel like running gravel through a vacuum cleaner, but the measure will still do a good job. I just power through the stroke when it hangs up. Often times running the handle a little slower will give the kernels a little time to find a home and not hang up.

Good thread.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

The Lyman #55 is probably the best measure available other than very high end competition measures. (read expensive) The RCBS Uniflow isn't far behind and you get RCBS standing behind it.

I use a Pro Auto-Disk on a Lee CTP for handgun loading.

I tap the hopper every time I get ready to throw a charge and I keep the lever up between throws.

 

[Catpop]

Lyman 55, no tap, keep handle down between drops. My theory is I do not want powder settling in measure cavity from table vibrations between drops. I get pretty consistent charges.
When changing wts. I throw at least 3 charges before even checking a wt., then I'll adjust if needed and repeat. If on the money, I'll weigh at least 3 charges. No change there, I'm good to go

 

[Gtscotty]

Thanks all for the great input so far. So if I'm understanding correctly, it sounds like most folks leave the measure in the throwing portion of the fill-throw cycle between throws. I'll have to try that, I've been doing the opposite on my Lee. I played with the Redding a little last night with varget, and the crunching and cutting is new to me and a bit disconcerting. It sounds like the best approach is to go slower and just power through if a kernel does get caught.

 

[cfullgraf]

I find consistency of operation, do it the same way every time, is the key to consistent power charges.

I prefer to minimize any vibration that can get to the powder measure. Except of when charging on a progressive press, my powder measure is mounted separately from my reloading bench so that operation of the press does not vibrate the measure. I have home made floor stands for the powder measure for this.

I find no difference in leaving the metering cavity full or empty, probably because I minimize the vibration. I like the metering adjustment in the front so I can see it and easily adjust it. So, the metering cavity is full between cases.

I cycle the measure in an easy stroke, minimizing vibrations should a kernel get cut in the process. I do not knock or rap the measure at the end of each stroke.

I feel running the metering insert at the extremes of the adjustment, mostly at the low end, does not help consistency. So, I have powder measures dedicated for particular ranges of powder charges. I will admit, this is mostly a wet finger guess, feel good thing. I have not done any scientific study on powder measure consistency versus metering insert depth.

I prefer to use a baffle. I cannot say I have seen any improvement of consistency by raising the baffle up in the reservoir, but again, no scientific study on the matter.

I do not feel that my way is the only way, but I do feel strongly that one should operate the powder measure the same every time, boringly repetitive as FROGO207 said.

 

[Reloadron]

I use a RCBS Uni Flow and adjust it to drop charges about 1/2 grain light in the scale pan. I them put the pan on scale and trickle up to desired charge.I then charge the case and seat the bullet.That might seem slow but I've been loading for 6 rifles and 5 handguns for years without a mistake. hdbiker

That would be what I was doing. Using an old Lyman M5 scale and RCBS Uniflow. Currently using a RCBS Chargemaster which I like.

When using any powder throw it's like using a click type torque wrench. It's all about being consistent in how you work the handle. When I just do straight throws (no trickle) I weigh every 10th charge or so but keep my hand action consistent on every throw. I use a baffle and never tap or anything out of the ordinary, just slow and steady working of the handle.

Ron

 

[noylj]

When I get a new measure, I:
1) Clean it with Hornady One-Shot Cleaner and Dry Lube and let dry (don't wipe off). I clean plastic parts with warm soap and water and let air dry (do not rinse).
2) I always run a hopper of graphitized powder (Unique, Bullseye, etc.) through the measure or I run a bunch of graphite powder through it.
3) I pour the powder in the hopper and give the measure a few shakes to settle the powder.
4) When I move the handle up or down, I ALWAYS give it a "tap, tap" against the stop.
5) I always throw at least 10 charges before I ever weight any of them. The measure must have time to settle. Sometimes it can take 20 throws, sometimes 3. If I change the metering setting, I throw at least 3 charges before I weight any. Obviously, don't start loading until you get consistent throws (for me, that is +/- 0.1gn).
6) I don't need better than +/- 0.2gn for ANY rifle load (I've compared and proven to myself that it just doesn't show up on target), and only check occasionally. I do use a light and inspect the powder in each case as I move from the measure to bullet seating. For myself, I found it safer to NOT use a tray and simply charge, inspect, seat bullet so I know every case is charged before the bullet goes on it.
You can read about folks who use a tray and how they will occasionally miss an empty case.
7) If I was OCD about the charge weight, I would simply use my RCBS ChargeMaster and not even consider a measure.

 

[Gtscotty]

I use a RCBS Uni Flow and adjust it to drop charges about 1/2 grain light in the scale pan. I them put the pan on scale and trickle up to desired charge.I then charge the case and seat the bullet.That might seem slow but I've been loading for 6 rifles and 5 handguns for years without a mistake. hdbiker

This is about what I currently do, except I use a Lee PPM to throw a few tenths low, then sprinkle up to weight on a Dillon D-Terminator. I'll probably still do this for match ammo, and hunting ammo, but the vast majority of my shooting is practice ammo, and I'd like to trade a small amount of precision for being able to throw directly into the case.

 

[Patocazador]

My measure is the pan of a PACT scale, slow but accurate.

 

[TommyD45]

I use an RCBS Uniflow measure with the small (pistol) cylinder. Click - Click. One brisk click on the upstroke and one of the downstroke. Works great on powders like H110, 4227, AA#9, AA#7, AA#5, 231 and Universal. I find consistency to a tenth of a grain on my RCBS digital scale.

One difficulty arises when the metered amount is too close to the boundary between two numbers, for example say 5.1 and 5.2 grains. The reading can go either way. In that case, I throw a double charge and adjust it to zero in on double the number I want.

If I wanted it to throw 5.2 grains, I would adjust the meter until it fairly consistently throws a double charge of 10.4. Then when I go back to a single charge I have found it delivers the 5.2 number very repeatably. I have 3 Uniflow measures and this technique works with all of them, so I didn't just "luck out" and get a good one.

The large flakes of unique make it a little less consistent than the above mentioned powders. I will still use it, but I don't load maximum charges with it. That way a +/- .1 grain tolerance will be close enough.

I don't use volumetric measures at all on stick rifle powders like Varget. Those I trickle. The size and shape of those little sticks don't seem to pack consistently into the chamber of a volumetric measure for me.

Tom

 

[joem1945]

I have a Hornady and 2 reddings. The Reddings I use for small pistol calibers.

 

[Average Joe]

RCBS Uniflow here, no special technique, just up and down. Stay below max load, and if it varies, (and it will with different powders) you still have that safety margin.

 

[hdwhit]

I have an RCBS Uniflow, a single stage press and never load more than 50 rounds at any one time. My technique is to set up the measure and throw charges directly onto the scale until I get a consistent weight and then check weigh every third throw. I have found that once the measure is throwing consistently, it stays consistent for the next 25 or 50 rounds.

I always tap the measure between throws. I don't think it makes any difference given the charges I load (25 grains or below), but suggest that if you're going to tap the measure, tap it consistently - it keeps the sequence of steps the same from load to load.

 

[splattergun]

I use the Lee PPM for rifle. I set it to throw slightly under target charge weight, then I trickle to weight. I leave the measure cylinder fully open while I'm working. I do not tap the measure before, during, or after a throw. But whether you tap it or not, consistency is the key!. Always tap it, and always the same way, in the same spot, or never tap it, every time.

I always try to throw the lever with the same force and same timing every time. My method gives me throws consistently + - .2 grain with stick powder. That .4 grain total swing is more than I'm willing to live with, so that's why I trickle up.

I am very pleased with the way my Lee Auto drum has performed with pistol powders, to I intend to experiment with stick powders in it. If I get satisfactory results, as some people have, I may change my methods. But I will still strive to be consistent.

 

[PO2Hammer]

I glued 2 magnets on my Redding 10X measure so the handle will stay in the up (dump) position between throws. That way the powder isn't settling between throws. It makes Unique meter much more consistently, not sure if it would help with rifle powders though.

 

[Gtscotty]

You don't happen to have a picture of your measure do you? My measure is very slick, and sometimes has a tendency to fall down to the fill position, I might want to try a magnet setup like yours to keep the cylinder handle up.

I used my new measure to throw some AR-Comp loads this morning. For technique I tried no tapping, keeping the powder measure in the throw position between measures, and going a little slower. Accuracy was very good this time, usually dead on, sometimes 0.1 off. I do think AR-Comp measures better than Varget, which I used last time. Kernels rarely got cut at my slightly slower speed, and when they did, they cut much easier than Varget. I may try a few of the different measuring methods recommended here, but so far things are looking pretty good.

 

[RecoilRob]

My Hornady measure is left between throws in the fill position...handle up, then it really doesn't matter what pace or tempo you use when charging the case....handle down with a tap at the end and everything that's in there comes out. Then right back to the fill position.

I've seen people do it the opposite way and never understood their reasoning as it does take some amount of time for the powder to drop into the measuring chamber and how long you pause for this to happen can alter the amount that makes its' way into it. This seems like a needless addition of a variable that can be eliminated by leaving the powder all the time it needs to fill and only worrying about making sure you get it all out and into the case. The tap at the end of the charging stroke takes care of this.

Some powders like Unique are a bugger to measure even when giving it plenty of time to fill as it likes to bridge in mine so when using it I give the thing a couple little taps when filling between throws to hopefully get the measure filled to the same degree each time. Doing it this way has pretty much eliminated the variables that Unique caused but I still make sure to visually ascertain that EVERY case gets the same charge. Better safe than sorry.

The various stick type extruded powders just don't throw nicely in my measure where you need to slice through a kernal or three when it's thrown. If the lever doesn't move smoothly with the same effort it bothers me...even though my last run through with AR Comp showed that it WAS metering darn closely...it's just I don't like the feel of it, so extruded stuff gets scooped then trickled to weight. If I'm loading a lot of 5.56 it gets ball powder which meters so nicely and I save the extruded stuff for precision and lower volume ammo.

 

[PO2Hammer]

You don't happen to have a picture of your measure do you?

I'll try to get one posted tonight.

 

[PO2Hammer]

I epoxied the first magnet on the measure body, then I placed the second magnet on the first, separated with a couple thicknesses of primer box cardboard, then epoxied the second one to the handle.