Where to find a replacement screw for S&W model 10 ?

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MIL-DOT

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I've had a S&W model 10 for several years, just kind of a household back-up gun, and somewhere along the line it lost the small screw that goes into the frame on the upper right side,just next to the hammer. I've been googling around, but quickly gave up and decided to ask y'all. Any help much appreciated........
 
Thanks guys. Calling S&W may work, as I recall, I once got a mag base plate for a Walther from them,a few years ago.
Also, it's not going to be part #35. The screw in question actually fits into the frame at the upper edge of the plate that #35 screws into. This screw seems to help hold that plate in place. I'm not seeing it on the Brownells schematic.
Anyway, I have some starting points, thanks to all.....
 
look up in the top right corner where a 5 screw pic is, is it the screw near the 5 or the w?
attachment.php
 
Before this goes any further it would be a good idea to have the serial number posted. The serial number should be stamped on the butt, and may include letter(s) as well as numbers. Post it as this example: 890,3xx with "xx" representing the last two numbers.
 
No problem,O.F. It's 637,0**. And Brian,it appears to be the 5-screw frame,pinned,and non-recessed cylinder. Also, fixed sights and this has the half-moon front sight.( In fact,but for the checkered grips, it's almost identical to the U.S. Navy marked "Victory model" I traded for a few months ago.)
I'm missing the screw that is on the right side, and just behind the top-most round in the cylinder
( yep, the one near the 5 ).
Thanks again..........
 
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Well it is as I suspected... :uhoh:

You don't have a model 10... :what:

You have a pre-World War Two (and pre-Victory Model) .38 Military & Police/1905 Hand Ejector, 4th change. I believe it dates from around 1933-'34, and the model 10 didn't arrive until 1957.

The screw you refer too was discontinued around 1955, so they never made a model 10 that had one... Such confusion.

Now that I know what to look for I'll see if I can find one, but I doubt they'll be listed under model 10, but we'll see.

Model 10 indeed!! :neener:
 
I have a 1948 S&W M&P which when I bought it was is fairly good condition except someone buggered up a few of the screws and one looked like it was just wrong. I wrote S&W hoping they would send me the screws and they told me I can get them by calling their sales desk 800 number. I haven't called them yet so I don't have a price but I'm sure 1 screw will cost you a lot less than the 5 I need.
 
Hmm.....so the plot thickens :D. Thanks again,Old Fuff and others, for the assistance. Now I'm gonna go root around on Google for a few........

By the way.....this pistol is parkerized. It looks to be the same "black magic" that S&W used on the Victory models. Would this be original for this pistol ?
 
OK, me again....From everything I've been reading, the Victory mdel is a Model 10 ( is that correct?). And I just compared this pistol with my Navy Victory Model,and they are virtually identical. So, the M&P model NOT a model 10 ?
 
By the way.....this pistol is parkerized. It looks to be the same "black magic" that S&W used on the Victory models. Would this be original for this pistol ?

It shouldn't be, but the Old Fuff knows better then to say, "No, absolutely never."

Smith & Wesson at that time made frames and serial numbered them, but they didn't necessarily turn them into completed revolvers. Sales were slow during the Great Depression, so we know that some late 600,000 serial numbered guns were completed as late as early World War Two. This was by no means common, but it also wasn't unknown to happen. The only way to know for sure is to pony up $50.00 and send it to S&W. For that reasonable research fee their historian will go and poke around in the original hand-written records until he finds your particular gun, and then send you a letter explaining what he found, which usually includes the shipping date, and what government arsenal, distributor, dealer, or (rarely) individual they sent it to.

The information concerning historical letters of authentication from Smith & Wesson’s historian, Roy G. Jinks can be obtained from the link listed below.

In exchange for a $50.00 research fee (make any check out to Smith & Wesson, not Mr. Jinks) he will search through the company’s original records until he finds your particular revolver. He will then send you an official letter which usually includes:

A short history of the revolver model’s background.

What the barrel length, caliber/cartridge, finish and stocks were, as well as the exact date it was shipped from the factory – and to what distributor, dealer or individual – as whatever the case may be.

http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...catalogId=10001&content=25301&sectionId=10504


OK, me again....From everything I've been reading, the Victory mdel is a Model 10 ( is that correct?). And I just compared this pistol with my Navy Victory Model,and they are virtually identical. So, the M&P model NOT a model 10 ?

Oh dear... Did I not explain earlier that the model 10 dates from 1957? How could the Victory models that were made from 1942-45 be model 10's? :scrutiny:

By 1957 Smith & Wesson was keeping it's records on some new-fangled machine called a computer. This was something no right-thinking company should do, but they did it anyway. Computers to be frank, are absolutely stupid, and while they hate names they get along O.K. with numbers. So Smith & Wesson dropped all the easy (for people) to understand names and went to numbers. Thus the Military & Police became the model 10. At the time the guns didn't change, just the way they were cataloged and identified.

This was always a great problem for me, because I can't count over ten unless I take off my shoes... :uhoh: Names on the other hand... :D

Seriously, all of this only matters if you are trying to buy parts. Over time parts, including screws, sometime changed. So you have to know exactly what model or variant of a model before you order parts. Just to ruin your day I have a news flash! Today's screws may look the same, but the thread pitch is different. Had you actually got a sideplate screw for a current model 10 and forced it into the frame, you could have gotten it cross-threaded and ruined the frame. :eek:

Now aren't you glad you're a member on THR??? :)
 
Go to: www.e-gunparts.com > Smith & Wesson > Military & Police

339800A Sideplate Screw, Large Head, Blue - New Replacement

$3.90

I am sure there are other sources, but this one was easy to find. ;)
 
Needed the Same Screw

Called S&W, screw in stock for the "New Classic" revolvers, price was reasonable but the shipping was a killer. They do have it, may not match your revolver's finish but should fit. The screw I received was needed for a Pre. Mod. 18, perfect fit. Call them, cannot hurt.
 
I found mine for almost the exact same 1921 4 screw S&W M&P at Brownells by asking the gun tech which screws were correct for my serial number. They replied with.

"The three side plate screws for your 1921 M&P are still the same as long as you order the old style yoke screw. The flat head screw at the top rear is item 940-030-910, the side plate screw round head is item 940-036-570 and the old style yoke screw is 940-050-491 and this screw will require fitting. There is no longer the screw for the front of the trigger guard available. I hope this helps and thank you for the inuiry.

Mark Hudson
Brownells
Technical Services"


I had tried a few places first like Old West and gunpartscorp. Old west wanted $12-$15 per screw. Gun parts corp was too confusing. Brownells were $2.84 per screw, easy to order and shipped immediately. The yoke screw did not require any fitting on my M&P.
 
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