Who does Krylon Fusion work on Glocks?

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fusion makes for a great prime coat for acrylic enamel as well as long as you give the fusion a week to cure first


. But for the colors you're likely to paint a glock you can now get krylon's camo color line with fusion technology

Just please for the love of god leave the punisher logo's for the teenagers.

next thing you know they'll be putting this on guns once the full length feature comes out

The_Equalizer.jpg
 
There's a full length feature of The Equalizer coming out??!! Score.

I just painted my rifle and scope with Krylon, go for it.
 
If you want something more permanent and durable, you may want to look to Brownells. They have paints like Aluma Hyde II, and others that are made for painting firearms and their accessories.

I've used Aluma Hyde II on all sorts of stuff and it works as advertised. Solvents like Hoppes or Gun Scrubber dont phase it, which is something you need to be careful with with things like Krylon and Testors, etc. They are actually the very thing I use to remove the paint jobs I've put on top of the Aluma Hyde base coat.
 
If you want something more permanent and durable, you may want to look to Brownells. They have paints like Aluma Hyde II, and others that are made for painting firearms and their accessories.
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I laugh out loud at these gun specific "coatings" :rolleyes:

It's PAINT people, just with a different label and a higher price tag. Just like gunscrubber is simply brake parts cleaner in a different can

It doesn't get more durable than Krylon fusion. If you properly paint something plastic with green fusion IT'S GREEN from then on out unless you paint over it or sand the top few mils of plastic off. I have yet to find a solvent that'll damage the stuff.
If you're that worried about chemical resistance you can use wheel paint on metal parts, that stuff is indestructible
 
I laugh out loud at these gun specific "coatings"

It's PAINT people, just with a different label and a higher price tag.
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Just curious, but how much experience do you actually have with Brownells "paints"?

I've used their Aluma Hyde II on everything from guns, both the metal and wood/plastic furniture, knives, scopes, even a bicycle, and its all still on there on all of them with very little wear and lots of use.

I've also used Krylon, Testors, engine paint, etc, and they all pretty much come off with out much work. I've taken guns painted with Testors and Krylon, and removed the paints completely, using nothing more than Hoppes and a little steel wool. The Aluma Hyde II under them is still on the gun and was not in the least harmed by the solvent. A quick degrease with Gun Scrubber, and I repainted.

It doesn't get more durable than Krylon fusion. If you properly paint something plastic with green fusion IT'S GREEN from then on out unless you paint over it or sand the top few mils of plastic off. I have yet to find a solvent that'll damage the stuff.
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Hmmm. I just took some plain old "brake cleaner" on a patch and rubbed a small spot right off of a gun I have some on. Took no effort either. Gun Scrubber does the same thing.

There IS a big difference between your Wal Mart or genereic hardware store or hobby shop paints and Brownell's. Brownells paints are made specifically for guns. They are pretty much permanent, unless you bead blast them off.
 
Hmmm. I just took some plain old "brake cleaner" on a patch and rubbed a small spot right off of a gun I have some on. Took no effort either. Gun Scrubber does the same thing.
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then it wasn't properly applied and or surface prep wasn't done correctly
 
Prepped and painted according to the can....

Paint has been on for about 6 months now, so I believe its well cured.

Both Gun Scrubber and brake cleaner take it right off. This has been my experience with Krylon from the other times I've used it before. This isnt the first time I've used it. It is not solvent resistant.
 
what was the surface and what kind of profile did it have? Because I've honestly had no such issues.

I lightly sand with brown then white scotchbrite wipe down with acetone and paint using VERY light coats starting out
 
Last one I did, and the one I just checked, was wood and steel. Wood finish was lightly roughed up, as directed, the whole thing blown clean and wiped down with Gun Scrubber, and then painted.

I've had the same issues with M16 stocks I've done alone, as well as successive layers of different colors on other camo jobs over Aluma Hyde II.

The main reason I use Aluma Hyde II for the base is, I can strip everything else without loosing the base, and the top coats come off easier. I usually use Testors, as they offer a lot more colors, but I've been using the Krylon lately, because they now offer the "flats" in big cans at a cheaper price. Theres nothing wrong with the Krylon, and the colors work fine, its just it isnt permanent, or what I call permanent.
 
It's likely it didn't stick because it was applied over an existing finish, I don't know that krylon would be very suitable for wood. I also don't think gun scrubber would be a compatible solvent especially on wood.

You can't say the fusion didn't stick because it's quite likely that the solvent in question removed the layer you sprayed it on as well.

Use my method and you'll get perminate results.

bare plastic
scotch brite
acetone wipe down
light prime coats
minimum of 70 degrees ambient temp

give one week to cure before any top coats are applied

I've experienced NO solvent damage on any plastic surfaces I've painted in the above manner, even with Sweets7.62
 
I followed their directions exactly, on both wood/metal and plastic, with the same results.

Look on the can, it has directions for wood, metal, plastic, and hard vinyl. It specifically states you can paint OVER paint and even rust, as long as the loose stuff is removed first.

Your theory might have some merit if the results were not the same in all instances. Plastic, wood, or metal, I've removed it with either one, or a combination of, Hoppes, brake cleaner, or Gun Scrubber and a little elbow grease.
 
it's true that fusion will act as normal spray paint over other suface coatings. But it stands to reason that if you want it to bond to plastic it has to come in contact with that the plastic. Another coat of whatever on the substrate will prevent this.
 
I can see that Glock with the Punisher logo sitting on a table with an evidence tag on it and the jury never taking their eyes off it.................
 
Yeah , skulls and flamed crossbones don't go over well in self defense / murder trials...just put yourself in a jurors place. The satanic and biker designs exhibit a bold and aggresive symbolism that put a defendant out beyond the conservative ,self defense look you want to show. It definately can work against even the most normal ,well behaved ccw holder out there.
It's funny how these types of designs work on a juror but really ,if you painted a murder weapon all white or powder blue, it really would'nt matter. How ironic.
I must say thanks for all the back and forth ,argumentitive tips guys. I plan on putting some coats on a couple of old g30 frames soon. One solid tan and the other tan and od green striping.
I wonder if there is some sort of clearcoat out there to use on top of any final colored coat. Something that would'nt discolor ands or crack. I would think a polyurethane coating of sorts would grip nicely. It has that tacky feel.
 
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