Winchester 1300 Mods: LOP and safety

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I have some questions about modifications to my Winchester 1300 Defender.

1: The most important mod is the cross-bolt safety. Is there a way to reverse it's operation for lefties? I am left-handed and reaching under the trigger-guard to unsafe the weapon is a real PITA. I usually unsafe it before I first shoulder it, and it never goes back on during a shooting session. I recall hearing that the 870 has a lefty-safety available, (Brownells maybe?) but I don't know if the Winchester does.

2. How to adjust Length-Of-Pull? I bought this gun during the summer months and it fit fine. The reach to the forearm was a bit much, but it was managable. Now that winter is coming, when I put a coat on, it is just too long. I am going to shoot some trap tomorrow (30DEC) and I practiced shouldering it with a coat on and found that the reach to the trigger was uncomfortable and the reach to the forearm downright unlivable. Should I get a "Youth" set or just try to reshape this one?

3. One last question: (slightly related to my second one) Since the LOP is fine for me 10 months of the year, I was considering changing the furniture to the factory Wood Defender furniture. I like the "classic" look the corncob forend and walnut stock give the gun. Does anybody know where to secure new-in-box factory wood furniture? I can't find it ANYWHERE and only see it on well-used/beat older Defenders.


Thanks for any replies!
 
P&R

1) I honestly can't remember. I "think" it can be reversed but I looked for my reference stuff on Winchester's and I can't find the info. Maybe Jagermeisters site will have this info. I 'thought' ( memory here) if that TG has the metal snap rings gently open over a box. IIRC there is a metal ball that will fall out ( use a box). Reverse and there is a second detent the ball goes in when you swap sides. I'm going on memory here, couldn't find notes, and I may have Trigger Guards confused. There may only one place for that ball and safety itself when reverses 'clicks" as should. Winchester should know, and Nu-Line has Win. Parts.

2) I competed year rd with same LOP, I wore a "light" jacket. Meaning I froze my buns off at times. In the South we get cold and wet. I was actualy taught to do this, I'm not being smart-aleck.

Now gun fit is crucial , I harp on this. I would do this. Get the gun fitted properly, with assistance and use a good smith. One way is to use a longer/thicker recoil pad for the 10 mos. Those other two,or when using bulky clothing have a thinner/shorter recoil pad, sometimes that 3/8" to 3/4 " is all that is needed. Also make sure the toe/hee/inside of recoil padsare radiused, less likely to hang up on vests, sweaters , etc. I do this on any btw, really helps with Sporting clays , 5 stand,or if you shoot low gun. I liked the Decelartor pads personally, some like Kick-eez. I prefer this method first, if the dimension of wood doesn't require being cut/bent to make fit ( pitch, cant...) Measure twice -cut once.

Second method,
and some use this more with game guns and training when bulky vests are used. They fit the stock short to allow for vest/clothing, with recoil pad. Then using an aftermarket slip on pad the LOP is lengthened.

I know a few with really short stocks that actually just change out buttstocks. I mean these folks shoot with a 14 1/2" LOP at games and training or certain gamers games with vest they are running 12 1/2" LOP.

3) Well I don't have the links handy I apologize. Boyts has some corn cob fore-ends and I many years ago a buddy bought one from Nu-Line. Give the 1300 a similar look to a model 12 if I understand what look you want.

Just working from memory here, others smarter than I will be along ,but I'd check Jagermeiters site for sure on the saftey swap for sure .

HTH
 
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