Working up a load for accuracy.

Status
Not open for further replies.

SC_Dave

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Messages
437
Location
Hickory, NC
In my case I'm trying to dial in a G19 Gen 3, stock barrel using 115 RMR RN FMJ and Win 231.

How do you guys test loads for accuracy for a particular pistol/barrel? What's your procedure? Do you bench rest or are your mechanics good enough standing.
David
 
I use a rest to keep the wobble out of the sight alignment. I use a V-neck sandbag and rest the pistol on the bag using the area in front of the trigger guard. At first I just used a rolled up towel for the rest and that worked fine. Found an old Caldwell v-neck rest at a garage sale for a couple of bucks so now I use that.
 
When developing a load for a pistol I always try to chrono it and always shoot from a rest while seated. Can do ok standing but get better accuracy from a rest. However most of my load development is for long barreled revolvers. My semi auto's I don't do any long range shooting with as they are home defense guns so I just try to make sure I have good ammo and practice with them the way they would be used for close range defensive situations. Every thing I shoot is stock except for grips in some cases.
 
I use Caldwell 5.5x5.5 shoot n see targets and 15yards freehand and fire them one at a time and if i can put a 17rd mag in that card I'm happy. I have thought about using my rifle bags to see just how tight they get but i don't shoot handgun from a bag during matches so it seems like a waste of time.
 
When I am developing a brand new load (For Me), I first decide on a caliber, secondly, I ask myself what do I want this process to deliver, It may cause me to go back to step 1. Next I select the desired/Best Bullet, next I get into the neat part... I select Primers and Powder(s) that I plan to choose from. Then into the Books, I have Hornady, Lee, Lyman, Sierra and several Reloading Magazines that have a lot of data in them. I am sure all components have been checked and are safe and damage free for this process.

Select a Load that utilizes the Bullet/Primer/Selected Powder from previous steps. If you are unable to match everything up, change powders or bullets and continue until you can.

You should carefully increase/decrease power during each batch test. Some use .1gr increments others use .2gr. I have heard of others stepping by 1.0gr, I think that is too much. You will need to watch for Brass issues

Once you have a Load Identified, start with a Middle Of The Road load (Powder) and Load a few (Some use 3, others use 5, I personally use 10 Rounds. If you want more than 1 batch (Different Powder amount), mark those primers with a Sharpie (1 color per Batch).

As you develop loads, check Velocity, Ballistic Coefficient if available (At least G1). Select your shooting range for testing, Rifle will obviously be longer than pistol.

Records Keeping: Keep a record of each test and ALL OF THE the data, Everything spoke about above should be written down as park of you record. Even if they are a Dud, not even close to accurate. That way, you know it wont work and you have a record to prevent re-occurrence.

Bullet Weight, Type, Primer Type/Size, Powder Name, Powder Amount, it.Overall Case Length, Type of Crimp (If Any), Range Info: Weather, wind speed & Direction, Temp, Barometric Pressure if known, By Batch. I even specify the firearm used and specifics about that specific firearm. I keep data on 3X5 Cards, on Final Loads, I use 5X8 Cards printed on Printer on the white side, so I have Lines on the back in case I need to add notes at a later time

If you have or have access to a Chronograph, set it up, collect as much information as you can.

Let the tests begin keep track of each round, check brass for damage, allow a little cool down time so you don't get data errors due to the Barrel being too hot.

My experience has been, If I get in a Hurry (For whatever Reason), I will make mistakes. Then I have to disassemble, then..... Go Slow, be methdical, reloading is a process, develop a process that you are comfortable with that is safe.

Good Luck in your endeavors
Dan
 
This is the fun part of reloading. Working up and evaluating new bullet/powder combinations. This is what I basically do:

  • Most of the time I will start with 4 different loads.
  • Each load will consist of 5 rounds.
  • Depending on the difference between min and max loads for the bullet/powder, sometimes I will separate my loads by increments of .1gr and sometimes .2gr of powder.
  • For load development I will most of the time use same length same headstamp cases.
  • I will document my intended test loads and decide on the test distance. The test distance I use for my pistols are 15 yards. For my revolver is 7 yards.
  • I write the load number on each of the test rounds I create with a Sharpie. This help with two things. If the rounds get mixed, then you know which is which. After picking up you spent cases you can associate each case with a specific load
  • I use a cheap MTM front rifle rest
  • Lately I have added a scope to my pistols to better evaluate the loads vs my eyes
  • I always chrono my loads to capture additional data. Chrono data is saved in excel and associated with each load.
  • I print my own targets with the load data. These targets are filed and sometimes scanned. Groupings are calculated, saved in excel and associated with a load.
  • Spent cases (with written load number) are inspected during or after shooting.

This is the rest I use (Stock picture. I probably should upgrade sometime)
mtm_rest.PNG

And this is my scope setup (cheap BSA scope)
IMG_20170827_121054648.png
 
In my case I'm trying to dial in a G19 Gen 3, stock barrel using 115 RMR RN FMJ and Win 231.

How do you guys test loads for accuracy for a particular pistol/barrel? What's your procedure? Do you bench rest or are your mechanics good enough standing.
David

I have a rest and have used it in the past but this year I have started evaluating my loads shooting two hand freestyle. I have loads that I can clover-leaf at short range (25') so I use them to get settled down then see where my evaluation loads pan out. My thinking on it has become the fact that I usually shoot without the aid of a rest and if my handling skills suck then accurate ammo will be of little benefit.

Every time I live fire and dry fire I spend a little time on aiming and trigger control on a small spot over multiple trigger pulls. This has improved my performance to the point that I feel confident not using a rest.

Now, add a shot timer and pressure from other competitors and then things do get out of hand rather quickly.

I digress....

The beauty of using a popular gun and competing with others is you find out what loads they use and this will put you close to where you want to be, IF accuracy is the main thing. I don't have a G19 but do have several G17s and have loads that are way more accurate than my handling skills. For accuracy I (personally) would not select such a light (115g) bullet. But regardless, I would pick a bullet weight and profile and a powder and try (after measuring/recording the bullet diameter) several different bullet makes to see which one gives the tightest group. Once I know that I would then tinker with the powder charge and seating depth. That's how I do it.

ON EDIT: All of the loads I have in current use have been with me for the last year. I'm going to re-evaluate them over the winter/early spring because I think with a bit of fine tuning I can make some improvements. I have BTW a 9mm handgun that I shoot 38 coated bullets that measure .3585 using a calibrated 1" micrometer.
 
Last edited:
"...good enough standing..." Nobody is solid enough standing for load testing. After that what you use for a solid rest is mostly about your budget plus a certain amount of where you shoot. A sand bag is probably as cheap as you can get. A bag of cat litter or even rice can be nearly as cheap.
Then begin with the start load(4.7 for a jacketed 115 and Win 231) and load 5 or a cylinder load of each load going up by .1 to the 5.1 Max load. (There's only 4 loads between min and max. .2 will be too much.) And shoot for group only at 7 yards.
Just remember that a Glock 19 isn't a target pistol so don't expect one hole groups. Consistency is more important anyway.
 
I normally shoot handguns two hands no rest for testing and getting numbers. Chrono at 5 yards and target at 7 yards. Some days I stink and the accuracy part of the test is no good. If it does well at 7 yards I shoot it at longer distances, first the 40 yard berm, then steel at longer ranges, again, two hands no rest. I can tell if a load shoots well that way. Wether it shoots 1" at 25 yards or 1 1/2" at 25 yards is not important to me. If I was shooting Bullseye I would bench test ammo, but I don't, and am sure I'm not good enough these days. Maybe never was, but I was better (Steadier/better eyes) when younger. I can tell when a load is shooting poorly and it's not me, as well as I can tell when it is me and I need to retest, although sometimes I can still tell if the load is poor when shooting poorly.

And after all, I am going to shoot/play with the loads with no rest. :)

Six shots 7 yards.
index.php


Six shots each 7 yards.
index.php


Five shots 7 yards, pulled one out.
index.php


Six shots 7 yards.
index.php



Seven shots 7 yards. Last shot down.
index.php


Eighteen shots each (6 PB, 6 PF, 6 PL) 7 yards
index.php
 

Attachments

  • 696 & Load # 181 Pic 2.JPG
    696 & Load # 181 Pic 2.JPG
    112.3 KB · Views: 185
  • Benelli .32 WC & Load # 13.JPG
    Benelli .32 WC & Load # 13.JPG
    66.6 KB · Views: 87
  • Colt & ACME 175 Gr SWC 4.2 Grs Competition.jpg
    Colt & ACME 175 Gr SWC 4.2 Grs Competition.jpg
    51 KB · Views: 138
  • Loads # 82  & 107 .38 Spl 18 shots each.jpg
    Loads # 82 & 107 .38 Spl 18 shots each.jpg
    45.8 KB · Views: 190
  • Loads # 124 & # 125 in Trooper Mk III .357 Mag (125 Gr Berrys & Powderbond) Pic 1.JPG
    Loads # 124 & # 125 in Trooper Mk III .357 Mag (125 Gr Berrys & Powderbond) Pic 1.JPG
    136.5 KB · Views: 88
  • Trooper Mk III and Powerbond 125 Gr HP with 8.2 Grs N330 - Load #116 Pic 1.JPG
    Trooper Mk III and Powerbond 125 Gr HP with 8.2 Grs N330 - Load #116 Pic 1.JPG
    75.4 KB · Views: 88
This guy, a two time Bullseye National Champion, he tests with a ranson rest. He shot this one handed, offhand, at a 25 yard reduced Bullseye match course. Of course every internet commando shoots better, but they never seem to have the time to go to Camp Perry and win the National Championship honor that is theirs for the taking.

J7nmpNq.jpg

Same guy shot this at CMP Talladega during one of the 2700 matches. He shot this during the 22 lr stage, these are his SF targets and the NMC course. Incidentally, the ten ring is four inches in diameter at 50 yards and at 25 yards. I can't do this, but it is a goal worth trying for.

OamtSYz.jpg

I shoot offhand and am not good enough to sort between good loads and match grade loads. But I can tell when ammunition does not shoot well. I will bang away at a gong target and if the pattern is tight, I will go with the load. I usually ask the good shooters what they use, and I copy that!.

BeGFkIp.jpg

yrNep9r.jpg
 
How do you guys test loads for accuracy for a particular pistol/barrel? What's your procedure? Do you bench rest or are your mechanics good enough standing.

Both but "accurate" is a qualitative word I use that doesn't really mean much.

My game gun pistol loads are plenty accurate, fired from standing position at any distance I may need to put them to use; however, they might not be as accurate as loads I develop for scoped semiautos or revolvers and no where near as accurate as loads for pistols like contender/XP-100 and I rarely shoot them without some fashion of support.

So "accurate" might mean able to shoot inside 4" at 20 yards standing, quickly or could mean submoa groups at 100 yards.

Accuracy of some sighting methods are very difficult to even match accuracy of others, even if you are using the same gun and ammunition. Like the difference in target resolution of these two photos taken from the same distance to the targets. That increased resolution also magnifies any movement of the gun, making for more accuracy or difficulty in taking the shot, depending on how stable it is.

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

Long story short, set a goal and go after it. For an out of the box Glock 19, I wouldn't have the bar set too high. I guess I would shoot a box of factory RN ammunition then see if my reloads could match factory. If I wanted more accuracy that factory RN, I would set a reasonable goal and switch to JHP's in my reloads.
 
I always use a rest (an MTM similar to the one @vaalpens used above) for two reasons. First, to take out the human factor as much as possible and, second, to prevent me from pulling a shot and hitting my chrono. Whether or not I can shoot tight groups offhand is not the purpose of this test, I want to know if the gun and load are inherently accurate.

I always start at min and work up. Sometimes I find accuracy at the low end, sometimes not. I am sometimes pleasantly surprised by an accurate and low recoil load. I always chrono my loads. I always have a max velocity in mind (taking into account the difference in barrel lengths used) and I will sometimes stop when I think I am getting too high a velocity. I also look at the standard deviation, I believe that info tells me something about the performance of the powder being used, whether it is happy operating at the pressure level reached during the test. And I always check for accuracy. Usually at 10 yards for most of my handgun rounds, but sometimes 25.

When I find a load that looks interesting, I will load some more up to see how well they perform when shot offhand. Usually, the load that was accurate from a rest will be accurate when shooting offhand, if I do my part.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top