Would you use Flitz in this situation?

Would you use Flitz polish on a blued gun?

  • Yes, I have used it succesfully and it did wonders.

    Votes: 14 42.4%
  • No, I would not! It's an abrasive and will ruin the gun.

    Votes: 19 57.6%
  • Warning!!! I have seen guns ruined by using Flitz!

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    33
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heavyshooter

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Okay, as many of you know I just acquired a S&W 27-2 that will be my first "fixer-upper." The action works great, but I am looking for original wood factory grips (if you have any input on this let me know) and I will need to touch up the finish. I would rate bluing about 90%. The only flaw is the cylinder has faint hints of rust and corrosion. It is so faint I did not notice it in the gunshop. I want to remove the rust and get the bluing back to its original luster.

I have been told that Flitz polish is the way to go. I have only used Flitz on my stainless guns and it works like a champ. But I am afraid to use it on a blued gun for obvious reasons. But my friend tells me that Flitz is safe to use on a factory hot blued gun. And it will remove rust and bring out the shine without damage to the bluing.

Check the Poll and comment so I can get your insight.

AND PHOTOS WOULD BE GREAT IF YOU HAVE THEM!!!

Heavy
 
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heavyshooter

I have used Flitz for many years on both my blued and nickel plated guns. Works great at removing rust and tarnish and will not harm or remove the surface finish. Use Flitz sparingly as a little dab will go a long way. No need for a lot of "elbow grease" either; just gently rub it on with a clean cotton cloth, and wipe it off once it has dried.

For a really high gloss shine on your stainless steel guns (and only on stainless steel guns), try Mother's Mag Wheel Polish (paste fromula). I have found it works better than Flitz for this particular application.
 
I would clean it really well (toothbrush, cleaning rod, Hoppes or whatever you prefer)then rub it down with Renaissance Wax.

If you do not want to invest in Renaissance Wax, after cleaning apply an expremely light coat of RIG and rub it in well.

I have used Flitz for years and don't like what happens when you get agressive with it on blued surfaces. It will remove finish from high edges if you are not careful. That being said, er, written, I will admit that it is the first thing I turn to when confronted with grimy guns that already exhibit a great deal of wear. Your Smith doesn't sound as though it fits in that category.
 
I have Flitz, Simichrome and Ren Wax and would not use Flitz or Simichrome on bluing. Ren Wax I would use.
 
Gentle rubbing with 0000 steel wool with LOTS of oil. Flitz is a bit too abrasive for my comfort. Great for polishing brass though.
 
Flitz is not an abrasive and is safe for factory blueing of the modern era...I wouldn't use it on something from the 1920's but would and have on newer stuff (Remington 1100 from 1967, 1940's era S&W "Military and Police", 1974 Colt's Government 1911A1...) with excellent results...it will not do anything for the blueing but remove the rust, corrosion and get any age and gunk off of it...by that I mean it will not add any blueing if there isn't any there anymore...
Go to their website (Flitz) and look at what you can do...it lists factory blued guns right on the label...and how many products still do that???...:D
Bill
 
Flitz IS an abrasive, regardless of what the marketing claims. How does it magically remove anything but leave the bluing, if it is not abrasive? Just like those lead removal cloths that are advertised as non-abrasive, it's hogwash. If it polishes, it is abrasive, period.
 
I'll use Flitz in a skinny minute. That being said, CraigC is correct. It's about the last resort for taking rust off. As mentioned, OOOO steel wool and a good oil gently applied would be my first step.
 
I've used Flitz since I was stationed in Germany for tough cleaning. But my first choice for your project is Kroil and elbow grease.
 
Okay, on a lark I figured I would put this to a test. Just received a NIB American Tactical FX45, which is a Philipine made Commander clone.

It is (was!) very nicely finished in a black matte that is ever so slightly "toothy". For quite a few years I have wanted to try my hand at ageing a pistol, which you often see amongst SASS and blackpowder shooters. I figured that my $389 (shipped!) 1911 would be a good candidate for creating a smooth, worn pistol that might have seen about 10 years of use, but not abuse.

Well, let me tell you now, Flitz IS an abrasive and it DID take blue off. It did it in a controlled manner and only on the high points and edges for the most part, but it did it in an quick, effortless manner.

I now have smoooooth 1911 that actually looks more blue than black, and that has wonderful character, with slighty bright edges and a hint of faded blue-grey in select areas. The gun actually feels wonderful and looks like an trusted old friend. I satisfied the urge to experiment and didn't ruin a gun in the process.

As for the OP, I would just bet it will take more blue off the cylinder if you are not careful. It immediately smoothed out the finish and with very little effort began to remove finish. I probably didn't spend more than 30 minutes using soft paper towels and a minimum of Flitz.
 
Brass brush and Hoppes or any gun oil.
The brass is softer than the steel and will not damage the cylinder or the blueing.
It will, with some persistence, loosen and remove the corrosion. Use a lot of solvent or oil, and wipe frequently with a clean cloth.
 
now that that is clearly settled...
(nope no Flitz for me, I just don't need to find out)

How about "Barkeeper's Friend" on STAINLESS ?
milady uses it all the time, for many years now, on cook wear I pray to never have to buy twice in one lifetime
(and no sign that I will have to)
but she don't shoot 357s out of those pots, she favors Ruger for that

and I am not going to find out for myself if S&W compatible or not
just curious
 
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