Your favorite .38 Special loads?

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Corner Pocket

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I'm not yet into reloading on my own, but have loaded a few rounds with the coaching of a friend (using his equipment) who is really into it. It just may be that the little fat guy with a red suit and a big bag over his shoulder may bring me a reloading setup in a few weeks. ;)

I have recently found that my favorite gun to shoot is my little Ruger SP-101 wheel gun. I just can't get enough of it and the more I shoot it, the more I enjoy it! I usually close out a range session by firing a few .357 magnum rounds through it, but I can see myself shooting a LOT of .38 Specials if I get into reloading...

So, I'd appreciate any info you'd like to offer a beginner as to your favorite load for .38 Special. Thanks!

Corner Pocket
 
I like my 38s loaded hot with 125gr FP home cast bullets.
Some people use very light loads but personally
I prefer having some recoil. Most think that lead bullet is at its best with lighter loads, but for some reason Ive had better results with faster velocities.
Now when you start making your own favorite load you should
begin with the starting loads you find in the reloading data charts (powder manufacturers internet sites provide them) and if you feel like it you increase your loads until you get your favorite. Simple.
You may also want to try different types (weight, shape, jacket) of bullets, cause they usually act
differently.
 
My favorite is 4.2gr of AA#2 and a Hornady 140gr lead flat point "cowboy" bullet.
Soft recoiling and accurate in my Taurus 66.
 
I've been using Titegroup and Unique for various weight bullets and it would be just a matter of experimenting with your revolver as to which loading it prefers for the best accuracy. There are many powders that are suitable for 38 special. You could start by looking at the manufacturer's web pages- Hodgdon, Alliant...
 
Here's some favorites I use:

For 25 yd target and plinking-
148gr. Wadcutter
3.0 gr Alliant Bullseye
WSP Winchester Primer
OAL - flush with case



Little bit of steam behind it ( close to +P ) ;

158 gr Hornady HP / XTP #35750
4.5 gr Alliant Bullseye
WSP Winchester Primer
OAL - 1.450 ( seat at cannelure )

Chrono results: 148 Wadcutter avg - Jframe - 530 fps .... 4" Diamondback - 620 fps - Recoil good, easy to control double action rapid.

158gr XTP avg - Jframe - 712 fps .... 4" Diamondback - 785 fps - Great out of Diamondback, a tad rough on the hand in the Jframe.


( CYA Stuff ) - Always use reloading manuals first.
 
If you were planning on using a progressive press I would recommend a 158 L 3.5 grains Bullseye, any case and any primer. That is what I use, shot cases of the stuff.

But, if you are using a single stage press, then you are loading your ammunition in "batches". A continuous operation like the progressive, your risk of double charging is actually minimal compared to the batch process.

You can double charge Bullseye and it won't spill over the case. While I never double charged, I missed cases in the reloading block. Something would distract me, or I would day dream and be in La La land, and I would skip a case. Could have just as easily double charged the cases in the reloading block.

The next powder I would have recommended is Unique. But I don't know if a double charge of Unique will spill over the case. You need something bulky.

I have not used Trail Boss, heard that it is bulky as all get out. Looked at the data on http://www.imrpowder.com/data/handgun/trailboss-feb2005.php, at maximum loads, the velocities are OK. Might work well in a 38 Special. The SASS crowd uses that powder.
 
Trailboss is a great powder and I found it works really well in 45acp. I tried it in 38 as well and the velocity and accuracy was good but it was dirty as all get out. I could not figure it out. The cases were just black upon extraction. I tried a tighter crimp to get better burn, I tried a heavier load that made it worst, so I then tried a lighter load it was better but still my cases were black. I was not willing to go below the stated start load so I gave up on it in 38spl.

Slamfire in one of my manuals I show the max of 3.4 with a 158gr FP but in another I show it as 3.6 with Bullseye. So once again for the original poster make sure you double check any of these loads with a load manual and work up your own loads using that info.
 
For 25 yd target and plinking-
148gr. Wadcutter
3.0 gr Alliant Bullseye
WSP Winchester Primer
OAL - flush with case
Very close to my favorite load -- but I go with 2.7 grains of Bullseye. I shoot a lot of "home-made" wadcutters, cast from wheel weights, but I really like hollowbased wadcutters when I can get them.

This load gives gilt-edge accuracy in my .357s and kills small game like the hammer of Thor.
 
I guess we oldtimers think alike. 2.8 Bullseye, 148 Speer HBWC and seated flush. My accuracy load for the last 25+ years.
 
5.5 grains of Unique behind a 125 Remington SJHP, awesome load, chrono's 1030 fps and is very accurate. By the way, Unique can be double charged in 38 special, 5.5 grains only fills the case about 1/3rd full.
 
I have a couple of favorites:
  1. 4.0 grains of Promo or RedDot powder with Berry's 125 grain copper-plated HP. This shoots to point-of-aim in my S&W model 15, and is more accurate than HBWC's
  2. 4.5 grains of Unique with 158 grain LRN or LSWCHP bullet. I keep the house gun loaded with these in hollow-points. I cast my own LRN's and use them for practice.
 
Speer has published recipes for eight different powders that will nominally replicate the performance of their Gold Dot Short Barrel 38+P 135-gr. PD round. That performance is about 860-900 fps from a 2" barrel.

I've spent the last six months building those loads with six of those powders, developing equivalent 140-gr. Lead Bullet recipes, and 'translating' those recipes into 357 Mag cases for similar performance (but with less cleaning issues, naturally.) All of these have been shot in a S&W M&P340, 640, and M60-3". All my test rounds were built with new / used Starline cases and WSPs. A firm crimp is needed.

Using the GDSB135JHP bullet, the one recipe that meets factory velocities is with Alliant Power Pistol. The charge range is 6.0 to 6.4 grains.

My favorite recipe, in that it most exactly replicates the feel of the Speer 38+P factory round recoil, is with AA#5. That charge range is for 6.6 to 7.0 grains; it runs about 25-30 fps slower than the factory rounds.

These loads are written up in Speer 14 (the latest edition). It also has recipes for the Gold Dot Short Barrel 135-gr JHP in 357 Magnum cases. Those run about 1000 fps from a 2" barrel. If you use these recipes, be sure to back up at least 5% to start.

Jim H.
 
How about this?

I use 5.2 grains of Unique under a 158 LSWC in a 357MAG case. It gives me a low 38SPL+P round that doesn't leave a dirty ring to clean out to shoot full power Magnums.
This has worked well for me in my GP100. The fixed sites are a little low but the load does good if I hold steady.
Wrong powder I got my notes out and found that I used 231 not Unique. Sorry
 
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3.5 gr bullseye and a 160 grain half jacket. No crimp, neck sized only using a 310 nutcracker Lyman.

Target loads from a medium to heavy .38 revolver shoot most accurately without the crimp.

A crimp will detract from accuracy and should only be used if the load recoils enough to cause unfired bullets to jump forwards from the neck tying up the cylinder.

Testing has shown that no two crimps are exactly the same and induce variations in velocity.

Blackpowder cartridges need the Crimp to build up pressure before the bullet starts to move, Smokeless powders only require a snug fitting neck to get efficient ignition.

Crimps should be used in slam loaders and in heavy recoiling cartridges. A crimp will prevent the bullet from being forced into the case when it hits a ramp with a heavy bolt pushing it, and prevents recoil from starting bullets forwards then the front of the magwell pushing them deeper in the casing.

Very light revolvers need the crimp also.
 
3.5 gr bullseye and a 160 grain half jacket (158 gr Semi Wadcutters work well with this load also. No crimp, neck sized only using a 310 nutcracker Lyman.

Target loads from a medium to heavy .38 revolver shoot most accurately without the crimp.

A crimp will detract from accuracy and should only be used if the load recoils enough to cause unfired bullets to jump forwards from the neck tying up the cylinder.

Testing has shown that no two crimps are exactly the same and induce variations in velocity.

Blackpowder cartridges need the Crimp to build up pressure before the bullet starts to move, Smokeless powders only require a snug fitting neck to get efficient ignition.

Crimps should be used in slam loaders and in heavy recoiling cartridges. A crimp will prevent the bullet from being forced into the case when it hits a ramp with a heavy bolt pushing it, and prevents recoil from starting bullets forwards then the front of the magwell pushing them deeper in the casing.

Very light revolvers need the crimp also.
 
One of my favorites for my Ruger Sec. Six 2 3/4" barrel, is a 148gr BBWC with 4.5gr of Bullseye and small pistol primers in a 357 magnum case. I don't like shooting .38spl in my .357 mags. it makes cleaning a P.I.T.A.
 
Favorite .38 Spec. load

I use 4.6 grains 700x behind a 125 grain Berrys' Plated HP, Win Small Pistol Primer....... for plinking, which is all I use Specials for anyway.:D
 
158gr Speer LSWC, LSWCHP or LRN on top of 4.5grs of W231 lit off by a Winchester WSP primer.
 
For punching paper....clean and accurate.

Brass: whatever I pick up
Bullet: 158 grain LSWC
Primer: Winchester
Powder: Ordinary Clays, 2.8 grains.
 
Shoot a 158g plated bullet with 5g of reddot. All I have are .357s so I tend to get them a little fast.
 
Slamfire in one of my manuals I show the max of 3.4 with a 158gr FP but in another I show it as 3.6 with Bullseye. So once again for the original poster make sure you double check any of these loads with a load manual and work up your own loads using that info.


Mr.Revolverguy: I have lived long enough to see loading manuals cut their maximum loads by almost 25%. It gets downright confusing at times.

As for my load, I tested, shot, and continue to chronograph that load as a reference, and have a very high confidence that it is a non +P 38 Special load.

As an example, I will shoot factory ammunition, which I know is pressure tested, compare the velocities against my loads. I am of the opinion that given a well known powder, like Bullseye, and staying within published loads, that velocities can be used as an indication of pressure. As long as the velocity of my loads are not radically different from factory, it is likely my pressures are OK.

Of course without pressure gages it is impossible to "know" the pressures, but outside of pierced primers, case sticking, comparing velocities, and reading tea leaves, how does one determine what is a "safe" load?

This is a very inexact science, because of all the variables.

As just a part of my data, I have a comparison of +P ammunition against my 3.5 grains Bullseye load. Obviously the +P ammunition is significantally faster than my load.

4" M66

Zero Factory 158gr LSWC-HP + P 16-Aug-92 T = 75°F
Ave Vel =877 fps
Std Dev =23
ES 77
High 923
Low 846
N = 6



158gr LSWC 3.3 grs Bullseye CCI 500 primers, Dillon Loads17-Oct-93 T = 65-70°F
Ave Vel =725 fps
Std Dev =17
ES 56
High 753
Low 697
N = 6


158gr LSWC 3.5 grs Bullseye CCI 500 primers, Dillon Loads17-Oct-93 T = 65-70°F
Ave Vel =764 fps
Std Dev =13
ES 40
High 776
Low 736
N = 6


Or where I have compared factory standard velocity against my reloads, I think my loads are close enough to give me confidence that nothing is amiss.


Taurus 2" Barrel

158 LSWC 3.5 grs Bullseye thrown, Mixed Brass WSP 11-Dec-04 T = 54 F

Ave Vel =686.3
Std Dev =13.63
ES 58.48
High 718.8
Low 660.3
N = 30
shot little high and centered


158 LRN Master Factory Ammo 30-Dec-04 T = 56 F
Ave Vel =698.2
Std Dev =20.56
ES 105.8
High 753.5
Low 647.6
N = 50
shot 6" high centered,until barrel leaded
 
Woooooooo Slamfire I was not questioning you, your abilities or your load. Though you have great intentions there could be some one out there with lesser than great intentions so the original poster should check. I know as well that you would even want and expect that he validates the load first before using. I have some older manuals around (pack rat) that I can't seem to get rid of and one from 1980 shows a max load way above what I quoted above for bullseye. We all know why the load manuals are decreasing the loads we have discussed it quite a bit here. Sometimes I do not understand it because if we are dealing with stronger metals, better processes, better quality assurance on our weapons then even the load manual from 1980 should work right?

I was not trying to insult you sir and apologize if I did. I was just calling out what I think we all take for granted some time that we expect the poster to verify the loads or work up his loads for what works best for him. For example I have seen my model 10 shoot very tight groups with the load you stated but my father and his model 10 just be all over the place. He reduced his load a tad bit and what do you know his model 10 shoots just as good as mine. Thats part of the fun right is figuring out what works best for you.
 
I have lived long enough to see loading manuals cut their maximum loads by almost 25%. It gets downright confusing at times.
If you have a library of old reloading manuals, you can see that most early manuals published no pressure data. Only in the last couple of decades has it become common to publish pressures (as accurate electronic pressure testing equipment became available.) The drop in maximum loads is probably proportional to the number of times someone in the lab shouted "Holy Cow! I didn't know it was that hot!"
 
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