Yugo m48 spring replacement question

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hexum77

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I bought some 50's Yugo ammo and I'm told to replace the bolt spring due to the hard or inset primers on the ammo. I have a Yugo m48 mauser. Do I need to replace the spring since I have a Yugo mauser and the ammo is Yugo? Also, will the 98 mauser wolff spring 22 lb work or do I have to get an actual 22 lb wolff spring for the m48? Thanks!

Also, any reviews on the 50's yugo ammo would be great! I inspected all of it last night (900 rounds) and it LOOkS ok to me... unless I can't see the fault in this ammo by my naked eye. :)
 
My stock M48 has never failed to fire anything I have fed through it. I have NOT, however, fed it any defective crap from the 1950's. I hope you got some good examples of the 50's stuff, I know some of it may be.
 
Welcome to THR, hexum77.

+1 on the shoot. Some batches of old Yugo ammo work fine and others don't. Just try it before changing anything. Have fun and be safe.


NCsmitty
 
Well I'll be shooting it without the new spring but I was just trying to do some research before hand in case I do indeed need one. Thanks guys! And thanks for the welcoming, NCsmitty :)
 
You will need to have a good cleaning regimen, ASAP after firing the old corrosive ammo. Nothing works better than hot water through the bore to dissolve the primer salts prior to a normal bore cleaning with solvent and patches. Then a light oil patch.
Make sure that you clean the bolt face and lugs as they can accumulate corrosive residue while shooting.


NCsmitty
 
Thanks, NCsmitty! Last time I shot corrosive ammo I just ran hot (boiling pretty much) water down the bore then just cleaned normally. I also just bought an 8mm copper brush. Would you recommend scrubbing the bore after I put the hot water down there or wait until I get some solvent on the bore before scrubbing with the brush?

Also, if I do have FTF's, can I use the k98 spring for my m48 mauser? Or does it have to be m48 mauser specific? Talking about the wolff 22lb spring of course
 
hexum77,
I frequently use corrosive ammo and use hot water followed by scrubbing with some dish soap. followed by another hot water rinse for the bolt, bore, and as much of the receiver as possible. I use a tea kettle to pour the hot water and stand out on he deck with the rifle held over the side during the rinse cycle. I also rinse the entire cleaning rod so as not re-deposit any left over salt residue. I then clean as normal with some Hoppies #9. HTH Be sure to take apart the bolt and clean/ oil the inside, especially the end near the firing pin.
Best,
Rob
 
used the windex at the range and when I got home....

After I got done cleaning it was back to looking like a mirror....

I'm a little paranoid about over cleaning though.

How much brushing is too much ?
 
hexum77, I have used Hoppe's #9 and a brass brush for many years, but in reality some of the strong copper solvents now on the market will actually attack the brass brush and many use the nylon brushes to avoid the chemical reaction with the brass brush. I have some nylon brushes, but still use the brass brush when I want the extra power that the brass bristles provide. Be aware, you need to prevent contaminating your solvent with a dirty brush.

Your Yugo uses a shorter bolt which requires different firing pin, pin spring, and of course bolt body.
I know that some people use regular M98 springs by clipping a coil or two off the 98 spring to maintain the standard spring rating, and they work.
An unaltered M98 spring will actually give a higher spring rating, and may be something to try before buying a spring kit, if the coils don't bind. I've not tried it myself.

I know that Wolf makes a spring kit specifically for the Yugo bolts. I don't recommend the 26lb version, as they can be a bear to install.

http://www.gunsprings.com/Rifles & Shotguns/MAUSER/1948 (M48)/cID2/mID40/dID176

Take a look at the information at this site, it has the breakdown of the rifle that may help you understand it's make up.

http://207.36.233.89/yugom48/index.asp


NCsmitty
 
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Nc... man thank you! You're very informative and I like that. Thanks so much! :)
 
This thread reminds me of the first few times I took my M48A out with 50's ammunition (154gr cupro nickel flatbase FMJ loaded by FN). I cursed the rifle as I kept getting light primer strikes. As the rifle warmed up, it would begin to work reliably so I knew it wasn't the ammo. I was at the time suspecting a weak spring.

Turns out, I hadn't removed all the cosmoline inside the bolt and only after the heat had affected the viscosity did the pin have enough velocity to impart enough of a strike for reliable ignition. I had taken the advise of a buddy to soak the bolt in fuel to remove the gunk. In the end, I simply took the darn thing apart as I should have on the first place and removed a good deal of grease. The rifle was flawless ever after.

BTW, the 50's fodder I bought for $70/800 has 50 and 51 headstamps and is Berdan primed/Corrosive. I scooped up 1600 at the time and have run through about half of it.

The bore is still mirror bright as it's been cleaned the same way as with my other firearms that see corrosive surplus ammo, 3 or 4 soaked cotton patches (with whatever glass cleaner is on sale, usually something generic) down the barrel first, followed by a couple dry patches and then cleaned as usual with Break-Free or again, whatever is on sale that's similar. I save the hot soapy water fiasco for my black powder firearms.

BTW, the ammo I wrote about dried up in 2000 or so... But if you run across the old FN stuff (Belgian?) packaged 100 to a (disintegrating) box, I'll vouch for them as being surefire and reasonably accurate presuming they were stored as mine were.
 
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*UPDATE*

went to the range today and had a chance to shoot my 1953 yugo surplus (factory 11). 100% fire rate. No FTF's, cracked necks or split cases! I shot about 60 rounds of that stuff and everything was A OK! :)

I also had a chance to shoot some turkish surplus stuff I bought and that was crap. Lots of cracking cases that I just ditched. It all shot OK but had to ditch the bad ones (which was about 5 out of 70 rounds that I shot. Also, the stripper clips that the Turkish ammo came with loaded fine into the gun, but were too far forward on the bullet holder thingy (not all the way back in the action) which caused the rounds to jam up when trying to load them into the chamber with the bolt. The ammunition needs to be all the way back against the end of the action (or whatever it's called) in order for it to not jam up, and the stripper clips simply didn't allow it to do that. It made the bullets sit too far forward in the bottom mag). Hand loading them worked fine though.

So I'm happy to say that my Yugo m48 firing pin worked JUST fine with the yugo surplus ammo. I guess they made my spring/firing pin strong enough to hit those indented/hard primers :)

Question though, my bolt was perfectly metaly when I first bought it. No sign of ware or anything but now there's black splotches all over the bolt. Is that rust starting to form or just normal ware and tear?
 
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