Guns that need repair/ attention

A Nylon 66 that needs one leaf spring. And has since I bought it...

I am waiting on a buffer tube for an upper I decided to make its own rifle. I ordered the wrong one.

I am almost caught up! Get after it! It's almost Spring shooting!

I'm pretty anal-retentive about firearms that don't function properly If it doesn't function as it's supposed to I can't rest until it's fixed. Same thing with automobiles.
For example, last year I bought a FM Argentine Hi Power in neglected condition externally but the barrel and other internals were in great shape. I was in for a surprise the first time out. Stovepipes, failure to eject and failure to fire every four or five rounds was the norm. Replaced all springs, extractor, pin and two new magazines. Nope, nada, nix, nothing worked. For nine months this stuck in my craw and I couldn't get it out.
My son is an LEO and he offered to take to a recommended old school gun smith that worked out of his garage. Returned the same day, no charge, with a note that said "Don't use cheap *brandname* ammo." I felt like an idiot. It's a constant range companion now. 200 rounds down range w/o a problem.

I’ve always got a few guns that need some work. Here are a few that need some attention.

No, I usually fix them right away. It's what I do.

I have a 20ga. Single shot that has been missing the bead for about 20 years. The stock doesn't fit me and it kicks twice as hard as it should so I just never bothered to replace that bead.

1896 S&W 38 safety hammerless that needs a cylinder stop...again. I can't get heat treat right on that tiny little leg.

12" smokepole chopped down rifle needs a crown job REALLY bad, and last time I shot it some loose screws made for airborne parts that still need put back on.

Buntline that I need to finish barrel work on and reassemble

Marlin 62 that needs the stock glued where previous owner cracked it and “fixed” it with Elmer’s

AR carbine that just flat out sucks and needs ripped apart to be something enjoyable (aka not a .223 that isn’t accurate)

entropy said:

No, I usually fix them right away. It's what I do.

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Says a guy named “entropy”? There’s gotta be a joke in there somewhere

I've got a Haenel #1 air rifle that needs a rebuild and Mossberg 46a in pieces for starters.

I have a Taurus 85 in the cabinet that's needed a new mainspring for about three years. I'm usually pretty good about fixing stuff, but I have other snubnoses and it's a Taurus. Also a Sig P220 that a previous owner put a Big Dot front sight on, but not the rear, so the correct sight picture is quite peculiar. I've had a browser tab open to the right parts page for that one for six months or so. In the last month, I've done a new spring and strain screw for a S&W 325, a new spring set for a S&W pre-31, and a new strain screw for a 625, so I guess it's just a matter of priorities. Apparently my priorities consist of "S&W revolvers come first."

You really should consider moving into the northeast. With the long winters, we get a chance to catch up on our tasks. Nothing that I have that is broken survived the winter. Snowing on a Saturday ...... stay in, head to the man room and get something fixed. Reload, reload, reload. In the last two weeks every rifle in the collection was cleaned.

Sappyg2.0 said:

5. Smith & Wesson 10-6 (The gun that got me thinking about the others) needs a new cylinder stop and spring. I really need to get on that.

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Do yourself and the Smith a favor, and buy Kuhnhausen's S&W book before opening that 10-6. They are beautiful, but subtle, machines.

Since I reload and 'smith my own firearms, I have lifetime-long list of fixes, adjustments, improvements, and trials I'd like to do.

I have an auto 5 clone that has a split handguard. Dang shame too. I’ve put a lot of work into that gun. Soft shooter when it’s running right.

I have another shotgun that “needs” a bead. I know you arent supposed to look at em when you shoot, but it bugs me when I’m not shooting it.

Need to fit a new recoil spring to my Hi Power. Have one, but it’s waaaaay too long.

May have an extractor issue w my 1911. Runs well, no failures, but it really beats up the brass.

An SMLE that has failed at the draws. That one is bugging me, bc I want to go shoot that rifle.

Gunny

I knew you would have a few guns laying around, waiting to be worked on!

bannockburn said:

Gunny

I knew you would have a few guns laying around, waiting to be worked on!

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Those range from just need a little cleaning to full restoration. One needs a new barrel.
The one on the edge of the table is a hand made rolling block in 32 Rimfire. The stock is cracked pretty bad, but no trouble for me, I just need to make the time and fix

Nope.

If it's broken, it gets fixed as soon as possible. If I can't do it, I have a Smith that can.

I've got an M91/30 Mosin Nagant that needs some work. I suspect that it may not be physically possible to degrease the stock, and it almost needs a mallet to cycle the action. I've tried polishing the chamber, but it didn't help much. Someone was telling me that I just need to soak the chamber in mineral spirits for a week. The problem is that my frustration with the rifle is turning to contempt. I'm not sure I even want to shoot it anymore. Except I have a few hundred rounds of Czech silvertip left. Except it's steel cased. I think I might just keep it for a wallhanger and give the silvertip to my brother.

I've also got a project 870 Wingmaster. It's reportedly a Vang Comp police gun with some pistol grip stock, Surefire forend(!!!), 1 round Vang Comp extension, MMC ghost ring sight, some sidesaddle, and ...no barrel. Apparently, it was a short-barreled police gun, but not SBS. The price was right even missing the barrel, so why not? Problem is that MMC is long dead, and I'm concerned about getting a barrel with correct sight height. Looks like Remington's standard rifle-sight-only barrel is actually an XS sight, which means there's options for sight height. I just need to order it and see if it works, and maybe get the next higher or lower sight. Another option might be to remove the sight and go with an ordinary barrel, or maybe one with rifle sights. Except, some matching Vang Comp short barrels have just turned up, so it might be interesting to SBS. I also want to upgrade the Surefire to LED.

It depends on the gun and what it is used for. I have 4 Harleys too, so I'm always fixing something.

bluejeans said:

Says a guy named “entropy”? There’s gotta be a joke in there somewhere

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Well, I guess it is a bit ironic. I have worked as a gunsmith in a couple shops, never entropic there. I work at Walmart now, that's where the entropy kicks in....

kozak6, you can degrease the stock on that Mosin by several easy, though time consuming, methods; One involves setting the stock half in the stove, and setting it at low and letting the preservative seeps out, then switching it around and getting the other half. Best to do in the winter. In the summer, you can wrap the stock in black trash bags and set it on the dash of a vehicle for the day. Then pull the stock out, wipe it down, repeat if necessary.
As for the front sight height thing, maybe someone on here will measure their MMC front sight height for you; then you could compare it to an XS and Remington stock one. I suspect that with the short ranges a shotgun is used at, the differences won't cause a lot of difference.

edwardware said:

Do yourself and the Smith a favor, and buy Kuhnhausen's S&W book before opening that 10-6. They are beautiful, but subtle, machines.

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A Python, now that statement applies. Tuning a Model 10 is simplicity compared to keeping a Python in correct time. Kuhnhausen's books are great for working on both.

I need to tune the extractor on a 1911. I can either chance buggering it up myself or pay a smith to do it right, can't decide which I'd rather do. If I do it myself, I might get it right but it'll take a trip or two to the range, which I have to work into my schedule. If I get it wrong, worst case is I'll buy a new extractor and it'll take a long time.

kozak6 said:

I've got an M91/30 Mosin Nagant that needs some work. I suspect that it may not be physically possible to degrease the stock, and it almost needs a mallet to cycle the action. I've tried polishing the chamber, but it didn't help much. Someone was telling me that I just need to soak the chamber in mineral spirits for a week. The problem is that my frustration with the rifle is turning to contempt. I'm not sure I even want to shoot it anymore. Except I have a few hundred rounds of Czech silvertip left. Except it's steel cased. I think I might just keep it for a wallhanger and give the silvertip to my brother.

I've also got a project 870 Wingmaster. It's reportedly a Vang Comp police gun with some pistol grip stock, Surefire forend(!!!), 1 round Vang Comp extension, MMC ghost ring sight, some sidesaddle, and ...no barrel. Apparently, it was a short-barreled police gun, but not SBS. The price was right even missing the barrel, so why not? Problem is that MMC is long dead, and I'm concerned about getting a barrel with correct sight height. Looks like Remington's standard rifle-sight-only barrel is actually an XS sight, which means there's options for sight height. I just need to order it and see if it works, and maybe get the next higher or lower sight. Another option might be to remove the sight and go with an ordinary barrel, or maybe one with rifle sights. Except, some matching Vang Comp short barrels have just turned up, so it might be interesting to SBS. I also want to upgrade the Surefire to LED.

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On the Mosin, You have to bleed the cosmolene out of the stock bit by bit or have sustained heat. A simple way is to take the rifle, put it in a black trash bag, leave it in bright sunlight in the summer, and it will cause the cosmolene to liquify and make a puddled mess at the bottom of the sack (make sure no holes and it is a good strong contractor type bag. There are also quick and dirty ways that GI's used that I do not recommend for safety reasons.

The other slower way is to use some sort of absorbent powder and acetone (well ventilated and no nearby flames). First, clean off all visible signs of cosmolene including breaking down the Mosin into its parts and removing from stock. Swabs, paper towels, etc. Use a hair dryer or very carefully a heat gun (most generate too much heat) on a section until it oozes, shut off the heat source, apply the acetone, then the whiting powder (Brownell's sells it or in a pinch, baking soda will work, haven't tried the grease absorption stuff as most are too coarse to stay on the stock) which absorbs the grease. Clean it off, heat, and repeat until the stock is natural color. Did that process once on a fully cosmo'ed Mosin because I had used it pretty well with other stocks that were not nearly so impregnated. A lot of Mosins have shellac finishes and this will damage that. However, shellac is the easiest to reapply if you really want to but not really that good for a stock finish application versus oil or other finishes.

The whole sticky bolt action and chambers of Mosins is a known problem (http://www.russian-mosin-nagant-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=29477, https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/mosin-nagant-chamber-question.434855/ , http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?334235-Mosin-Nagant-m91-30-Extraction-issues )

The easiest solution is boiling water, repeatedly applied to the barrelled action via the chamber until the metal is hot enough to hold only with oven mitts. Then run a patch and bore brush through it. Repeat as necessary and then oil--the last thread and the last comment best describes this way. Also break down the bolt itself and soak/scrub in mineral spirits--although if you have an ultrasonic cleaner it would also probably work. Hardened gun oil and grease make for a bad experience with a bolt gun.

On the shotgun, I recommend calling up the folks at Brownell's and ask them about replacing the front sights as they sell them or it is a simple fix for a gunsmith--there is a calculation based on the length of barrel, the height of rear sight, and the needed height for the front sight which you can find on the internet. Usually, it is easier to use a taller sight and work it down than building up a shorter one but both work. I am currently having to find an acceptable front sight base and blade for an old Berthier m16 rifle (/sarc on/ the French assault rifle of WWI that is feared as the original M16 /sarc off/) that someone has thoughtfully shortened to a non-std. length.

Hey, boom boom, are you a member on RMNF also? I am entropy on that forum, too.

Entropy beat me to it on the car trick but always posts with the voice of experience of been there and done that.

On my list, have a chopped down m16 Berthier needing a front sight of the appropriate height and new sight base, a bare Lebel receiver that needs its internals and forestock, a Carcano long rifle that has a warped stock which needs replacing, ditto for a K31, couple of cracked handguards that need patching inlays, a oddball Long Lee (Mk 1) that has some receiver issues and apparently is non-standard for trigger guard holes on the receiver--neither the SMLE style or the Long Lee style trigger guards work. This one is to be converted to a .22 LR. Sure I have some more when I get some free time. Should be finishing my full M-1903 (.22 LR style) using a D&T Rock Island receiver and various m1922 parts. The 1934 era Springfield m2 .22LR barrel surprisingly times perfectly with the receiver marks on the 1903 receiver including the extractor cuts--got lucky there. Have to apply a headspacing block on the right side of the 1903 receiver which I have but need to attach in place and am using the m2 bolt with headspacing screws. When done, it will be a 1903 in .22LR with a full size S stock. It has taken several years to acquire all of the specialized parts at an affordable price.

boom boom said:

On my list, have a chopped down m16 Berthier needing a front sight of the appropriate height and new sight base,

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Have you considered an 03A3 front sight? I've seen them on many chopped down milsurps, Mosins especially. Sometimes they are a few inches back from the muzzle, but they seem to be useable on a variety of barrels.