There are actually a lot of decent options for what you are talking about. Basically, almost any S&W, particularly one with a 6" or longer barrel (for the sight radius), adjustable sights, and chambered in either 38 or 357 will fill the bill. The easiest to find these days is likely to be a 586/686, and I would feel very, very, very comfortable looking at used ones.
Suggest a target 38/357?
- Thread starter brewer12345
- Start date
- Status
Driftwood Johnson
Member
Howdy
You might be surprised. I ran into this one a few years ago. A Model14-3 that left the factory in 1974. Almost new condition. It was on consignment for $550. I counter offered $500 and was able to walk home with it the same day.
Sometimes you get lucky. You just have to be persistent.
Decent Model 14s can be easily found in the $500 price range. They may have a few scratches and some cosmetic wear on the edges and muzzle, but they are just as functional as the day they left the factory. Certainly, if you want a 14 that is in mint pristine condition, you will pay for it. I admit to some bias, but there has never been any other revolver made that equals the shootability and accuracy of a Model 14. The average shooter might never be able to realize the potential, but there is a reason the Model 14 has always been the "standard" that others strive for when shooting Bullseye.
The Model 14 is a K frame revolver with a 6" or 8 3/8" barrel with a Patridge (target) front sight. The Model 15 is the exact same K frame revolver, only with a 4" barrel and a Baughman (ramped) front sight. The advantage of the 14 is the longer sight radius. There are currently a good number of them listed on a major gun auction sight, priced at or under $550.
The 686 is a slightly larger L frame with a full lug barrel. It is a wonderful handgun, but with that full lug barrel, most of the extra 6 ounces of weight (over the 14) is on the front end in that barrel lug. For prolonged Bullseye shooting this is less than ideal. It most certainly can be done, but I find that it brings on fatigue much quicker. The biggest advantage to the 686 is the fact that it is chambered for .357, so if you have any desire to use it for other than target shooting, that is a big option. A good used one will most likely run in the $600 price range. However, you can add another $60-$70 and buy a new one. They do seem to retain their value.
I absolutely love my 14-1. It is by far the most accurate revolver I own, and I do own a goodly number of them. It is an excellent gun for what it was designed for, and that is target shooting. If I wanted a nice revolver with a more utilitarian purpose in mind, I would probably opt for the 686. I just wish they made them without that full lug. I know it is a tough decision, but best of luck in making one. Let us know how it all works out.
The Model 14 is a K frame revolver with a 6" or 8 3/8" barrel with a Patridge (target) front sight. The Model 15 is the exact same K frame revolver, only with a 4" barrel and a Baughman (ramped) front sight. The advantage of the 14 is the longer sight radius. There are currently a good number of them listed on a major gun auction sight, priced at or under $550.
The 686 is a slightly larger L frame with a full lug barrel. It is a wonderful handgun, but with that full lug barrel, most of the extra 6 ounces of weight (over the 14) is on the front end in that barrel lug. For prolonged Bullseye shooting this is less than ideal. It most certainly can be done, but I find that it brings on fatigue much quicker. The biggest advantage to the 686 is the fact that it is chambered for .357, so if you have any desire to use it for other than target shooting, that is a big option. A good used one will most likely run in the $600 price range. However, you can add another $60-$70 and buy a new one. They do seem to retain their value.
I absolutely love my 14-1. It is by far the most accurate revolver I own, and I do own a goodly number of them. It is an excellent gun for what it was designed for, and that is target shooting. If I wanted a nice revolver with a more utilitarian purpose in mind, I would probably opt for the 686. I just wish they made them without that full lug. I know it is a tough decision, but best of luck in making one. Let us know how it all works out.
walnut1704
Member
The Blackhawk is a viable low-cost option. I have a Model 14. I have a 6" Model 66. The Blackhawk shoots right with them, and mine has a 9mm cylinder just for fun.
Jim Watson
Member
A look at the model name is indicative. It is the Distinguished Combat Magnum, although not often called by name, more usually just the "L frame."
"Combat" obviouly follows the lead of the Combat Masterpiece and Combat Magnum in the waning days of the police revolver.
"Distinguished" is not general advertising puffery. It refers to the PPC Distinguished Match, requiring factory barrel and sights, unlike the match guns' bull barrels and tall ribs. The heavier frame and underlugged barrel steady the gun in DA strings. The grip is the same as the K frame, familiar to all revolver shooters.
Me? I shot PPC before the introduction of the L frame series, so I bought a Python to use as both Match and Distinguished gun.
Cool! I had no idea!
entropy
Member
Ever shot a Python or Officer's Model Match?
Best S&W, without a doubt, the 14.
If I had a dollar for every Smith I was handed and told, make the trigger like a Python's...
I agree on the 686 being an awesome gun. Back in the early '80s when I first started owning and shooting centerfire handguns the Python was a highly desired gun, but I don't think there was nearly as much worship of them by people who had never even handled or fired one. Some of my friends and shooting acquaintances had them, and at least one or two still does. For me, for shooting and handling, I prefer the a 686 with some rounds through it and lightened springs. 586 isn't bad either.
Jim Watson
Member
I think they made a few in the 686+ seven shooter series. Five inch barrels, even.
Crowman
Member
I like the Ruger GP100 Match Champion. Already tricked up and ready to go. Ruger made this one to go head-to-head with S&W’s 686 SSR. I carry one as my ridge walking gun in spring and summer. Mine is spot-on with 158 grain JSP full house Magnums.
Eddietruett
Member
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2018
- Messages
- 1,076
I purchased the 7" barrel from a guy who had either a Talo or Performance 686 and decided it was too long. He had it rebarreled to 4" although in my opinion he should have sold the special length gun and bought a standard 4" but I would up with the barrel and had it installed on a 6" 686 that never seemed to shoot nearly as well as my 8 3/8". Turned out to be one of the best moves I've ever made for target shooting and hunting. I have found that my 8 3'8" shoots cast bullets sized to .358 so accurately it is scary The 7" does not shoot cast bullets nearly as well, but is an absolute tack driver with jacked bullets at .357. I use cast bullets for hogs and jacketed for deer, so I can take both guns in the blind and am ready for whatever walks out. BTW, I have a 6" Model 14 and I agree with several of the above posters. For a straight "target .38" you can't beat the Model 14. And the action and trigger can be made as slick as anything out there. Most of the time a set of reduced power springs from Wolff will give you all you need
ThomasT
Member
I have a very accurate Ruger GP-100 I bought back around 1990. When i got it I was shooting falling plate matches with it. At first it did lead the barrel. Fa more than my S&W guns. But after about 500 rounds through it it smoothed up and no longer leads at all. Its my most shot revolver with 5000+ rounds through it. did a trigger job on it and its almost as good as a best S&W trigger. And never had a single misfire from I light strike. I won a lot of trophies with that gun.
Over the past couple years, I have found nice examples of S&W Model 14 and Model 15 revolvers at reasonable prices. Excellent 38 Special, mid-frame revolvers. Generally speaking, the Model 14s are 6" and 8-3/8" barreled guns while the Model15's are 4" barreled guns. But, late in the life of the various models (late 1980s through 1990s), this distinction gets blurred.
Model 19's can also be found if one want to be able to shoot 357 Magnum. But the Model 19's will not survive a steady diet of full power loads. They are great for shooting mostly 38 Special or 38 Special +P with magnum loads once in a while. My 6" barrel Model 19 suffered a split forcing cone after a steady diet of 158 grain Magnum level loads over a period of time shooting IHMSA silhouette competition.
The Model 586/686 series are also excellent S&W 357 Magnum revolvers and will handle a steady diet of full power loads. They are also excellent revolvers for lower power loads.
Model 19's can also be found if one want to be able to shoot 357 Magnum. But the Model 19's will not survive a steady diet of full power loads. They are great for shooting mostly 38 Special or 38 Special +P with magnum loads once in a while. My 6" barrel Model 19 suffered a split forcing cone after a steady diet of 158 grain Magnum level loads over a period of time shooting IHMSA silhouette competition.
The Model 586/686 series are also excellent S&W 357 Magnum revolvers and will handle a steady diet of full power loads. They are also excellent revolvers for lower power loads.
Confederate
Member
I've compared S&W 19/66 forcing cones with Ruger Security-Six forcing cones and to be honest, both looked about the same. Yet the Ruger forcing cones go for hundreds of thousands of rounds while the S&W forcing cones tend to split after a few thousand hot loads. I can understand why the Ruger frames, being solid, would sustain more --- many more---rounds with no frame fatigue, the forcing cone difference is that the S&W cones are from forged steel while the Ruger cones are from investment casting.
I recall the S&W ad that tried to make the case that investment cast parts weren't as good as the forged steel parts. That ad campaign didn't last long as experts appeared on message boards saying the claims made by S&W weren't at all accurate.
.
Jim Watson
Member
I didn't know Ruger cast barrels. Frames, sure, but their cylinders are bar stock and I figured their barrels were, too.
375supermag
Member
Hi...
I own at least a half dozen .357 Mag revolvers and while the Ruger BlackHawks and Colt Troopers I own are certainly accurate, they are not in the same league as my S&W 686 Silhouette Model with an 8-3/8" barrel with adjustable front and rear sights.
I probably own 30-40 revolvers, including Dan Wessons, Colts, S&W, Taurus, Ubertis,etc and believe my 686 is the most accurate handgun I own.
Back in the good old days before failing eyesight and ill health took their toll, I was able to win a few matches with that revolver.
I also was able to win more than a few bets by consistently hitting a 10-12" steel plate at 200 yds off a rest at my gun club with 180gr handloads using Hornady XTP bullets(can't remember the powder charge at the moment but it was no higher than reloading manual maximum, because I never exceed those levels).
I own at least a half dozen .357 Mag revolvers and while the Ruger BlackHawks and Colt Troopers I own are certainly accurate, they are not in the same league as my S&W 686 Silhouette Model with an 8-3/8" barrel with adjustable front and rear sights.
I probably own 30-40 revolvers, including Dan Wessons, Colts, S&W, Taurus, Ubertis,etc and believe my 686 is the most accurate handgun I own.
Back in the good old days before failing eyesight and ill health took their toll, I was able to win a few matches with that revolver.
I also was able to win more than a few bets by consistently hitting a 10-12" steel plate at 200 yds off a rest at my gun club with 180gr handloads using Hornady XTP bullets(can't remember the powder charge at the moment but it was no higher than reloading manual maximum, because I never exceed those levels).
ColtPythonElite
Member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2011
- Messages
- 10,483
I have to agree on the 686 8 3/8" accuracy. I have one and admit it seems to be the most accurate of all the revolvers I own including the Pythons.
I also bang steel out to 200 yards regularly with mine.
I also bang steel out to 200 yards regularly with mine.
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/780634504
May go very reasonable, and unless you are a Bullseye shooter, will likely out shoot you. I like mine.
May go very reasonable, and unless you are a Bullseye shooter, will likely out shoot you. I like mine.
bannockburn
Member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2007
- Messages
- 26,320
Confederate
Are you sure Ruger used cast barrels? I'm thought Ruger uses bar stock (or at least they use to), to make their barrels as a friend of mine had an older stainless Vaquero that needed a new barrel (original was improperly installed). Ruger had stopped making barrels for that particular model so they made one out of bar stock, assembled it correctly this time, and then polished the whole gun so it would have the same finished look. This was all documented by Ruger's repair facility.
Are you sure Ruger used cast barrels? I'm thought Ruger uses bar stock (or at least they use to), to make their barrels as a friend of mine had an older stainless Vaquero that needed a new barrel (original was improperly installed). Ruger had stopped making barrels for that particular model so they made one out of bar stock, assembled it correctly this time, and then polished the whole gun so it would have the same finished look. This was all documented by Ruger's repair facility.
Reloadron
Contributing Member
With that in mind, among my revolvers I have several I really enjoy shooting 357 Magnum and 38 Special in. I have a S&W Model 28 Highway Patrolman which I love running wad cutters through. A few years ago I bought a few thousand of these bullets from Missouri Bullet. I have been shooting them over Bullseye in my S&W Models 27, 28 a Colt Trooper as well as my Model 19 S&W. They are just plain fun to shoot.
All of the revolver suggestions I see made are all good guns so it becomes a matter of your personal taste within your price point. I also have a S&W 586 gun which I really like. Again it goes back to your pocketbook and your taste as well as what feels good in your hand.
Ron
Catpop
Member
This is a common complain with RUGER, at least with mine.
But it can be solved by fitting an oversized boolit to your barrel with throat adjustment.
But You won’t find them commercially as they seem stuck at .358 and maybe a few .359. Home casting is only way to go. I got very blessed in life and found a friend on the west coast to help me solve this problem.
My RUGER bh requires a minimum .360 to reduce leading and .361 to not lead at all.
My RUGER sbh requires a minimum .432 to reduce leading- testing there is ongoing this coming winter.
Oh, hardness- I shoot only 6-7 brn range scrap lead.
Oh lube- I use bens red, but I think any good lube will work. More testing at east coast testing lab is ongoing.
Again “Fit Is King”!!!!
Good luck!
buck460XVR
Member
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2007
- Messages
- 10,100
S&W's claims in that ad were and still are accurate. No "experts" appearing on message boards making false claims about that ad, because at that time.....there were no such thing as internet message boards.
Doubt very much if anyone here is going to shoot out a new 686 with factory or equivalent ammo, in their lifetime. Iffin they do, S&W will fix or repair it for nuttin'.
Dang...........Getting hungry for a big thick burger and a shake!
- Status
