What Would You Do About This New Barrel?

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Hartkopf

Hartkopf

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004227EF-2DF8-463C-9F98-07C44597CEC8.png 7CCFC7B9-3EE7-40B3-9F3E-5B8BE0E9A989.jpeg Just got a new 9mm conversion barrel for my Glock 22. I cleaned it inside and out, installed it and shot 25 rounds through it. It shot ok, POI was a bit high but it did good for the brief test.

Inspection after 25 rounds showed what looks like a build up at the beginning of the lands. BUT, It is all on one side of each land. As if the lead in was cut after the rifling and burs were left on each land, all on the side a clockwise cutter would leave.

So, I’m not sure steel barrel material will just shoot out over time. It definitely will not brush out. I’m leaning towards sending it back. Thoughts?
 
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That looks like the specific side of the edge where the bullet first engages the lends.
I'm not surprised that's where a little lead might initially scrape off as the bullet overcomes inertia to start rotation.
Unless it starts to build up exponentially, I (personally) wouldn't worry about it.

When you say "it won't brush out..." what are you using?
 
You inspected it with a bore cam after 25 rounds?? Why? You can't tell function or accuracy with that few or rounds on a new gun. Go shoot a couple 100 rounds and leave the bore cam alone. Check function and accuracy. If they are good clean it. Bore cams are great if you really need one. The average shooter doesn't IMO. It's a Glock, not a competition target pistol. The barrel will probably smooth out. Theres tons of guns out there that look like that and worse that shoot fine.
 
Scooter22 said:
You inspected it with a bore cam after 25 rounds?? Why? You can't tell function or accuracy with that few or rounds on a new gun. Go shoot a couple 100 rounds and leave the bore cam alone. Check function and accuracy. If they are good clean it. Bore cams are great if you really need one. The average shooter doesn't IMO. It's a Glock, not a competition target pistol. The barrel will probably smooth out. Theres tons of guns out there that look like that and worse that shoot fine.
Click to expand...

I thought I saw something with my naked eye so I used a loop, flashlight and my phone to inspect the area and get pictures. Pretty clear wasn’t it!? Made you think I used expensive equipment on a Glock! :D

I’m asking opinions because if the barrel is defective or subpar, the time to send it back is now. Not after I put 200 or 2000 rounds through it and the original condition might be unrecognizable.
 
bdickens said:
Well, what actual issue are you experiencing?
Click to expand...

The issue of rifling like you see in the pictures. And, how will it respond if I just shoot the hell out of it. As I said in the OP, I’m not sure if steel barrel material will just shoot out of it. It does not appear to be lead or copper.

If leads and lands normally look this way and they ALWAYS resolve themselves by just shooting it out, then that’s great. I will have learned something. If this is subpar machine work and could cause problems later, I’ll send it back.
 
If you are worried about send it back. It’s yours to do as you please. Don’t need a bunch of us to give ya the go ahead. You have to live w it we don’t.
 
I’m looking for educated opinions about what will happen to this barrel as it is shot more. “Just shoot it” might be the right answer but has anybody seen this before? Do we all assume our new barrels look like crap and we shoot it out of them? Maybe they do but again I’m looking for answers and some experienced opinions. If I wanted the quick thoughtless answer that’s correct half the time, I’ve got a redneck cousin that can take care of that. Usually THR members bring valuable experience and thought with their replies.
 
Hartkopf said:
I’m looking for educated opinions about what will happen to this barrel as it is shot more. “Just shoot it” might be the right answer but has anybody seen this before?

... looking for answers and some experienced opinions ... Usually THR members bring valuable experience and thought with their replies.
Click to expand...
Yes.

What you are seeing in your barrel is metal "flashing" after it was reamed with a reamer. I have several 40-9mm conversion and 40S&W aftermarket barrels for my Glock 22/23/27 (KKM, Lone Wolf, BCA, Tactical Kinetics) and Lone Wolf conversion barrel for G22 came reamed but for G23 was not.

Here are pictures of Lone Wolf G23 conversion barrel that was not reamed from the H&R category barrel/OAL comparison thread - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...g-oal-col-for-reference.848462/#post-11068321

index.php
index.php


Above Lone Wolf barrel has very short leade/freebore that requires shortest OAL to fully chamber a loaded round (H&R link thread has listings of Max/Working OAL for various bullets for each barrel). Below are pictures of KKM G22 conversion barrel with longer leade/freebore that allows longer OAL (Even very long 9mm Major lengths).

index.php
index.php


I no longer have the reamed Lone Wolf G22 conversion barrel (It was "Paid It Forward" to a friend) but two Bear Creek Arsenal G22 conversion barrels I bought in recent year were - https://www.bearcreekarsenal.com/gun-barrels/glock-compatible.html

index.php


As you can see in the above picture of reamed BCA G22 conversion barrel, like your barrel, it shows metal "flashing" from the reamer but as long as the "flashing" is flat, it shouldn't interfere with bullet's bearing surface engaging the rifling. I have shot several hundred rounds through my BCA conversion barrels and they are pretty accurate as the reamed Lone Wolf G22 conversion barrel both of which have 1:16 barrel twist rate (KKM has slower 1:24 barrel twist rate).

So as many members already suggested, as long as accuracy is not affected, I wouldn't worry about the metal "flashing" from reamed barrel.

I hope this helped.
 

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[QUOTE="Meeks36, post: 12083642, member: 256862It’s yours to do as you please. Don’t need a bunch of us to give ya the go ahead. You have to live w it we don’t.[/QUOTE]

What is the point of a discussion forum if we do not welcome inquiries which then lead to discussions?
 
LiveLife said:
Yes.

What you are seeing in your barrel is metal "flashing" after it was reamed with a reamer. I have several 40-9mm conversion and 40S&W aftermarket barrels for my Glock 22/23/27 (KKM, Lone Wolf, BCA, Tactical Kinetics) and Lone Wolf conversion barrel for G22 came reamed but for G23 was not.

Here are pictures of Lone Wolf G23 conversion barrel that was not reamed from the H&R category barrel/OAL comparison thread - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...g-oal-col-for-reference.848462/#post-11068321

index.php
index.php


Above Lone Wolf barrel has very short leade/freebore that requires shortest OAL to fully chamber a loaded round (H&R link thread has listings of Max/Working OAL for various bullets for each barrel). Below are pictures of KKM G22 conversion barrel with longer leade/freebore that allows longer OAL (Even very long 9mm Major lengths).

index.php
index.php


I no longer have the reamed Lone Wolf G22 conversion barrel (It was "Paid It Forward" to a friend) but two Bear Creek Arsenal G22 conversion barrels I bought in recent year were - https://www.bearcreekarsenal.com/gun-barrels/glock-compatible.html

index.php


As you can see in the above picture of reamed BCA G22 conversion barrel, like your barrel, it shows metal "flashing" from the reamer but as long as the "flashing" is flat, it shouldn't interfere with bullet's bearing surface engaging the rifling. I have shot several hundred rounds through my BCA conversion barrels and they are pretty accurate as the reamed Lone Wolf G22 conversion barrel both of which have 1:16 barrel twist rate (KKM has slower 1:24 barrel twist rate).

So as many members already suggested, as long as accuracy is not affected, I wouldn't worry about the metal "flashing" from reamed barrel.



I hope this helped.
Click to expand...

Thanks LiveLife!:thumbup: The few other barrels I've looked at were slick as glass so I didn't know what to think of this one. A stock Glock barrel is a work of art where the rifling starts. I would prefer higher quality machine work/finishing but it's hard to be picky in our current situation. I'll keep an eye on it.
 
Your bbl needs broke in with jacketed bullets. After that some tight patches with jb bore paste or a bbl lapping compound will finish the break-in.

That area of the bbl you're inspecting is where the accuracy game is won or lost. Any new firearm or bbl that I buy gets cleaned, inspected and polished before it ever has a bullet fired in it. A springfield armory 1911 ro chambered in 45acp, not the greatest picture but it show what a new polished bbl looks like.
wvwbomH.jpg
It doesn't take much to remove any burrs along with taking any sharp or rough edges off of the lands. Once you get to where there's no buildup/fouling/leading in the leade of your bbl. Work up a accurate load, accurate enough to tell improvements to thr bbl. This is my initial test load/target load I developed for the ro/1911 bbl. 10-shot group @ 50ft.
lxO5I66.jpg

Continue to work on the leade of your bbl along with getting range time in. That range time/use will allow the outside of the bbl/lock-ups to wear/mate together.
nvTTSXH.jpg

You can see a jar of moly bore paste in the picture above. It's not for the bore/inside of the bbl. Instead it's used to treat the outside of the bbl after the lock-ups/mating surfaces have finely settled in.
WCXRqNs.jpg

Get the inside/leade of the bbl right and tight. Then get the lock-up's dialed in then it's game on. 5-shot groups @ 50ft using 3 different bullets and my poor excuse for shooting 5 shots (5 shots 30 seconds).
N17hNIE.jpg

I'm glad the op is checking his new bbl and caught what was going on. he can either live with it as others have suggested. Or can improve it and enjoy the fruits of his labor.
 
If it doesn't affect accuracy I'll live with it.
There is little or nothing you can do about that barrel other than ask for it to be replaced with another one, which in all likelihood will have the same finish because the machinery and tools with which they build them, those are and those remain.
 
forrest r said:
Your bbl needs broke in with jacketed bullets. After that some tight patches with jb bore paste or a bbl lapping compound will finish the break-in.

That area of the bbl you're inspecting is where the accuracy game is won or lost. Any new firearm or bbl that I buy gets cleaned, inspected and polished before it ever has a bullet fired in it. A springfield armory 1911 ro chambered in 45acp, not the greatest picture but it show what a new polished bbl looks like.
View attachment 1031497
It doesn't take much to remove any burrs along with taking any sharp or rough edges off of the lands. Once you get to where there's no buildup/fouling/leading in the leade of your bbl. Work up a accurate load, accurate enough to tell improvements to thr bbl. This is my initial test load/target load I developed for the ro/1911 bbl. 10-shot group @ 50ft.
View attachment 1031498

Continue to work on the leade of your bbl along with getting range time in. That range time/use will allow the outside of the bbl/lock-ups to wear/mate together.
View attachment 1031499

You can see a jar of moly bore paste in the picture above. It's not for the bore/inside of the bbl. Instead it's used to treat the outside of the bbl after the lock-ups/mating surfaces have finely settled in.
View attachment 1031500

Get the inside/leade of the bbl right and tight. Then get the lock-up's dialed in then it's game on. 5-shot groups @ 50ft using 3 different bullets and my poor excuse for shooting 5 shots (5 shots 30 seconds).
View attachment 1031501

I'm glad the op is checking his new bbl and caught what was going on. he can either live with it as others have suggested. Or can improve it and enjoy the fruits of his labor.
Click to expand...

I might not go that far with this barrel but it's great to have this information. Thank you!:thumbup:
 
5-SHOTS said:
If it doesn't affect accuracy I'll live with it.
There is little or nothing you can do about that barrel other than ask for it to be replaced with another one, which in all likelihood will have the same finish because the machinery and tools with which they build them, those are and those remain.
Click to expand...

My thought was that this barrel (and possibly the whole lot), had the debur/finishing step omitted, accidentally or not. But this might be what the manufacture considers finished. It's probably not worth returning based on everyone's responses.
 
My opinion. What you’re seeing is indicative of poor quality. The barrel wasn’t lapped/polished after machining. Is this standard for this maker? I have no idea. Send it back, you may get another just like it. On the other hand, since it’s on the “backside” of the rifling, it may not matter. But I wouldn’t be happy with it.
I don’t understand the comments about “if it doesn’t affect accuracy “. Compared to what?
 
Truth is there are a wealth of companies out there now producing (or marketing someone else’s with their name) barrels. Most have little reputation beyond word of mouth and most people aren’t critical of what they’ve spent money on. They like the dimples or flutes or color and it hits the metal target so it’s “been a great performer”.

No, most barrels aren’t lapped. They’re bored, rifled, flushed, reamed, boxed for shipping. Unless your maker specifies this step, like Lilja, Bartlein, etc. then you’ve simply bought a conversion barrel, not an upgrade.

Can it smooth out over time? Not really. It can wear to something more even perhaps, but it won’t really polish up much. Can you lap it smooth? Sure. Some valve compound or JB Bore Paste will do that but only so much, and maybe just enough to reduce what you’re seeing to less concerning (to your eyes, don’t read as dangerous) levels.

I wouldn’t stick a Dremel in there...well...I might with a buffer tip and the JB...but clean it up with compound, see what comes out, see how it shoots, and understand what you bought (conversion) as opposed to what you might have hoped for (target grade barrel).

I wish you luck and report back your findings.
 
Op, if you are anything like me, that barrel will haunt you until you either send it back or try to clean it up yourself.
Personally, I would try to clean it up myself, but if it was not coming out good enough to stop invading my dreams I would probably send it back.
I do try to remind myself that in many cases I get what I pay for (and I am very much Dutch) so that usually leads to alot of tinkering as opposed to going first class to begin with.:thumbdown:
 
Hartkopf said:
My thought was that this barrel (and possibly the whole lot), had the debur/finishing step omitted, accidentally or not. But this might be what the manufacture considers finished. It's probably not worth returning based on everyone's responses.
Click to expand...
Since I already seen Lone Wolf barrel that was reamed with "smooth" cut rifling without metal "flashing" and other aftermarket barrels (KKM, Lone Wolf, Tactical Kinetics) that weren't reamed with clean cut start of rifling, I was initially dismayed to see BCA barrels with metal "flashing".

But upon closer inspection, I noticed the metal "flashing" was flat and I felt better. And since I have other barrels to compare accuracy with, I felt even better (Almost happy) after seeing tight groups on target as these were Black Friday sales item at nearly half the normal price (I think around $47?).

If you are not happy with the accuracy you are getting with the barrel, you can always contact customer service to inquire if you can get a replacement barrel that was not reamed (But you may end up with a short leade barrel like my Lone Wolf G23 conversion that requires much shorter OAL of rounds so I would ask how short the leade of non-reamed barrels are).

If the barrel is accurate but you are not happy with the appearance of metal "flashing", you can certainly voice your concern with customer service and see if you can get a replacement without metal "flashing". (It doesn't hurt to ask and perhaps presence of metal "flashing" may indicate reamer may need to be sharpened/replaced)

My guess is that QC check step after reaming involved dropping dummy rounds into the barrel to see if they fully chamber and clear the rifling so presence of metal "flashing" may not matter as long as dummy rounds fully chamber. But you know, customer feedback is invaluable to gun barrel manufacturer as there are many competing barrel manufacturers and your feedback may change their reaming/QC check process.
 
WHAT? CALL THE COMPANY AND ASK A QUESTION? You are making waaaaay too much sense; don’t you know, this is the internet! It is much, much better to ask a question on this forum and get beat up than to call the selling company and get a replacement or a refund. Nothing more ruthless than a woke firearms enthusiast - and the irony is that these guys are theoretically in your side.
EDIT: Hartkopf, nothing I said was meant for or directed at you - it was a tongue-in-cheek response to previous input. I think that your barrel question is legit - my input was satire . My non-satire input is that you should replace the barrel with another brand to your liking - but ultimately, that is up to you.
 
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