Cheap 1911A1: SDS any good for $319

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If the local gunstore had Tisas 1911's in stock, for $350, I would have purchased one. I have handled a couple out at the range, the early one was as tight as a series 70 or 80 Colt and went bang each and every time.The owner had paid something under $300 for it. Another pistol I handled was tighter, the owner was happy.

The Turks have been making firearms at a time when the First People's in the America's were running around in animal skins and hunting with atlatl's. Many very well made firearms selling in the US are made in Turkey.

One does not have to spend thousands for a straightforward and reliable 1911. I recently purchased this at a local gun store

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Two years ago this pistol was selling in the lower $300's, but due to "Putin Inflation", it was the cheapest in the shop at $425. The pistol is tight, good trigger pull, large sights, and at the range, it shoots to point of aim and went bang each and every time. The slide is milled 4140, the frame from cast 4140. Those are better materials than any US Military 1911 up to WW2. I don't know what Colt used afterwards, but I do have a couple of series 70 Colts, and had issues with both.

When this finally happened, I removed all the series 80 parts from the Colt

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I do have a Les Baer Wadcutter, an amazingly tight, accurate, and properly built pistol for Bullseye Pistol Competition. It shoots great and is right in all the little details, but there are very few people shooting groups at 50 yards, and 50 yards is a very long way for combat pistol shooting.

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Heck, the high capacity crowd I see at the range is rapid firing at things seven to 10 yards. And at those distances, these lesser priced 1911's will give the customer value.
It’s a about variety and affordable. My gun budget has sunk to nothing ($1,000 - $1,500) this year, inflation and food cost hurts. And I’m a reloader so component take half of that. So when I found out I could get a working and reliable 1911 for $350 out the door. I was on it! I have a Colt 80 Defender .45 and it’s nice. It don’t like coated bullets, and have not tried JHP yet, but it loves lead and fmj’s. Good gun, but the ejection pattern is almost 12 o’clock and rains hot brass on my head.

your 80’s Colt could probably function with out the block. Some tinkering could probably get it done. I’m going to try to remove my block and see what happens. My other 1911 are 2011’s, got those before the boys were born and they are all 70’s.
 
It’s a about variety and affordable. My gun budget has sunk to nothing ($1,000 - $1,500) this year, inflation and food cost hurts. And I’m a reloader so component take half of that. So when I found out I could get a working and reliable 1911 for $350 out the door. I was on it! I have a Colt 80 Defender .45 and it’s nice. It don’t like coated bullets, and have not tried JHP yet, but it loves lead and fmj’s. Good gun, but the ejection pattern is almost 12 o’clock and rains hot brass on my head.

your 80’s Colt could probably function with out the block. Some tinkering could probably get it done. I’m going to try to remove my block and see what happens. My other 1911 are 2011’s, got those before the boys were born and they are all 70’s.

I may be wrong but I think you could cure that Colt from raining hot brass on your head. My SR 1911 was hitting me in the head with ejected brass. Not consistently but about once a magazine. I did some research that led me to adjust the tension on the extractor. It has been fine since.

I wasn't going to comment on your newest acquisition because I have not fired one of them but everything I have read about the SDS 1911's has been positive. I hope you enjoy your latest purchase.
 
I may be wrong but I think you could cure that Colt from raining hot brass on your head. My SR 1911 was hitting me in the head with ejected brass. Not consistently but about once a magazine. I did some research that led me to adjust the tension on the extractor. It has been fine since.

I wasn't going to comment on your newest acquisition because I have not fired one of them but everything I have read about the SDS 1911's has been positive. I hope you enjoy your latest purchase.
was it more tension or less?
 
your 80’s Colt could probably function with out the block. Some tinkering could probably get it done. I’m going to try to remove my block and see what happens. My other 1911 are 2011’s, got those before the boys were born and they are all 70’s.

I could have left my Colt as is with the firing pin block jammed up as long as I left the series 80 firing pin sears in place.

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I was able to find a shim that filled the frame cut for the firing pin block sears. Once the sears were removed, it made sense to remove the firing pin block, as it could work its way down and disable the pistol.

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I think the whole series 80 mechanism a kludge. Another problem I have had with a Colt series 80, is the firing pin block dropping down, and preventing the slide from closing. That has happened to me with a Colt Combat Elite. However, with the block forced upwards, maybe I could have left it as is, but I know the mechanism is defective, and I did not want to find those new and unexplored failure modes that occur with a firing pin block jammed upwards. So I removed the whole kluge mechanism.

The pistol is safer with a functioning series 80 mechanism, as it will prevent a slamfire if the pistol is dropped on its muzzle. Drake Gun works conducted drop tests with various firing pins. And guess what, a 1911 will go bangy if dropped from a high enough height.

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The heavier firing pin took less distance to create enough firing pin inertia to cause primer ignition, the lighter ones took more height. The firing pin block will prevent this, but I accept the risk. I do not accept the risk of carrying "cocked and locked" as that was never a carry condition that John Browning designed the pistol for, nor did the Army holster the gun cocked and locked. The John Brown designed safety was the half cock. The Army would have none of this and the original carry mode (Army only) was round in chamber, hammer down, pistol in flap holster.

The grip and thumb safeties are sear blocking safties only. If the hammer and sear surfaces are broken, by a hard blow for example, a 1911 without a firing pin block will fire.

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By the time you get to Vietnam, the only approved carry mode (in cantonment) was nothing in chamber, magazine in weapon. What you did out in the field was determined by your unit commander. It has only been recently that I found what may be the reason the Army wanted the pistol carried nothing in chamber. And it is due to Jeeps. A Kimber representative told me that several thousand Jeeps had 45 caliber holes in the transom from WW2 through the 1970's. Officers would remove their web belt and holster and place the heavy thing on the floor of the Jeep. And then, during Mr Toad's wild ride, that holster would end up slamming into the transom and slamfiring the weapon! I can tell you, I have read a number of stories of drivers and Jeeps in the war zone, driving like mad to avoid shell fire, so I believe Jeeps got bounced around, and everything inside the Jeep, also got bounced hard. I do know, Soldiers in peacetime have flipped things, like MLRS launchers, and HMMWV's, and lost control of semi tractors with loaded anti aircraft missiles. Accidents happen

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and I never would have thought this could happen, till I saw the picture. One way to schedule a dental appointment

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From the 1917 to 1945 Navy Blue Jacket manuals I have looked at, the Navy never allowed a round in the chamber as any sort of holster carry. Makes sense, as there are lots of people and munitions inside their tin cans, and bullets will rattle around a while before stopping.
 
I could have left my Colt as is with the firing pin block jammed up as long as I left the series 80 firing pin sears in place.

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I was able to find a shim that filled the frame cut for the firing pin block sears. Once the sears were removed, it made sense to remove the firing pin block, as it could work its way down and disable the pistol.

View attachment 1077351

I think the whole series 80 mechanism a kludge. Another problem I have had with a Colt series 80, is the firing pin block dropping down, and preventing the slide from closing. That has happened to me with a Colt Combat Elite. However, with the block forced upwards, maybe I could have left it as is, but I know the mechanism is defective, and I did not want to find those new and unexplored failure modes that occur with a firing pin block jammed upwards. So I removed the whole kluge mechanism.

The pistol is safer with a functioning series 80 mechanism, as it will prevent a slamfire if the pistol is dropped on its muzzle. Drake Gun works conducted drop tests with various firing pins. And guess what, a 1911 will go bangy if dropped from a high enough height.

View attachment 1077345

The heavier firing pin took less distance to create enough firing pin inertia to cause primer ignition, the lighter ones took more height. The firing pin block will prevent this, but I accept the risk. I do not accept the risk of carrying "cocked and locked" as that was never a carry condition that John Browning designed the pistol for, nor did the Army holster the gun cocked and locked. The John Brown designed safety was the half cock. The Army would have none of this and the original carry mode (Army only) was round in chamber, hammer down, pistol in flap holster.

The grip and thumb safeties are sear blocking safties only. If the hammer and sear surfaces are broken, by a hard blow for example, a 1911 without a firing pin block will fire.

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By the time you get to Vietnam, the only approved carry mode (in cantonment) was nothing in chamber, magazine in weapon. What you did out in the field was determined by your unit commander. It has only been recently that I found what may be the reason the Army wanted the pistol carried nothing in chamber. And it is due to Jeeps. A Kimber representative told me that several thousand Jeeps had 45 caliber holes in the transom from WW2 through the 1970's. Officers would remove their web belt and holster and place the heavy thing on the floor of the Jeep. And then, during Mr Toad's wild ride, that holster would end up slamming into the transom and slamfiring the weapon! I can tell you, I have read a number of stories of drivers and Jeeps in the war zone, driving like mad to avoid shell fire, so I believe Jeeps got bounced around, and everything inside the Jeep, also got bounced hard. I do know, Soldiers in peacetime have flipped things, like MLRS launchers, and HMMWV's, and lost control of semi tractors with loaded anti aircraft missiles. Accidents happen

View attachment 1077349

and I never would have thought this could happen, till I saw the picture. One way to schedule a dental appointment

View attachment 1077350

From the 1917 to 1945 Navy Blue Jacket manuals I have looked at, the Navy never allowed a round in the chamber as any sort of holster carry. Makes sense, as there are lots of people and munitions inside their tin cans, and bullets will rattle around a while before stopping.
love your post!
 
any sort of holster carry. Makes sense, as there are lots of people and munitions inside their tin cans, and bullets will rattle around a while before stopping.
To be fair, USN "carry" is virtually always "off-ship"--gate guards, Shore patrol, Beach & Landing parties.

There are two exceptions. While moored in a foreign port, the OOD (Officer of the Deck) is required to have a pistol belt and holster while on duty.* Secondly, the lads assigned to the DisbO (Disbursing Officer) were to have side arms while the DisbO was on Official Duty.**

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*Until about '75-85, the OOD had a pistol, but not always ammo (or even magazines). In the mid-90s, your "badge of office" was the pistol belt and holster alone. In a US port, the "badge of honor" is a honking bulky old telescope of questionable utility (it's like a 2.5x30 a meter long), one is meant to tuck under the left arm.

**"Back in the day" Navy Pay was in cash and coin, so the DisbO had a chest full of scrip and specie--enough to pay the whole crew for the whole cruise. On Pay Day, there was a special desk with a two-way drawer. The Accounts Book went on top, and each Sailor posted up, the accounted tallied, and the appropriate amount was doled into the drawer by the DisbO, with his Assistants very visibly wearing sidearms. The Sailor then pulled the drawer to him, to withdraw his pay. With Electronic Pay, that's not a "thing" anymore.

The remaining duty the DisbO has that wants armed assistants to this day, is escorting the box taken to the fuel or provisions dock in foreign ports. While electronic payments have become more common, many foreign ports would still prefer bullion or specie to pay for 40-50 tons of food or Bunker #2 fuel oil. More than a slight bit of security follows that "strong box" off the ship.
 
To be fair, USN "carry" is virtually always "off-ship"--gate guards, Shore patrol, Beach & Landing parties.

There are two exceptions. While moored in a foreign port, the OOD (Officer of the Deck) is required to have a pistol belt and holster while on duty.* Secondly, the lads assigned to the DisbO (Disbursing Officer) were to have side arms while the DisbO was on Official Duty.**

_________________________
*Until about '75-85, the OOD had a pistol, but not always ammo (or even magazines). In the mid-90s, your "badge of office" was the pistol belt and holster alone. In a US port, the "badge of honor" is a honking bulky old telescope of questionable utility (it's like a 2.5x30 a meter long), one is meant to tuck under the left arm.

**"Back in the day" Navy Pay was in cash and coin, so the DisbO had a chest full of scrip and specie--enough to pay the whole crew for the whole cruise. On Pay Day, there was a special desk with a two-way drawer. The Accounts Book went on top, and each Sailor posted up, the accounted tallied, and the appropriate amount was doled into the drawer by the DisbO, with his Assistants very visibly wearing sidearms. The Sailor then pulled the drawer to him, to withdraw his pay. With Electronic Pay, that's not a "thing" anymore.

The remaining duty the DisbO has that wants armed assistants to this day, is escorting the box taken to the fuel or provisions dock in foreign ports. While electronic payments have become more common, many foreign ports would still prefer bullion or specie to pay for 40-50 tons of food or Bunker #2 fuel oil. More than a slight bit of security follows that "strong box" off the ship.

Interesting!. I have an Edwardian, that is EVII Warrant Officer sword, pattern 1897, mfgr 1910 . The Warrant Officer sword is rarer due to the fact it was issued, whereas Officer swords were private purchase. Given that Government swords tended to be destroyed, the survival rate of Warrant Officer swords is less than Officer swords. Anyway this sword, is stamped RAPC, which is Royal Army Pay Corp. I assume a Warrant stood next to, or at the pay table, wearing his Government issue sword, to add authority and a deterrent to anyone thinking of making off with the pay box.
 
Super extended background check clean for pick up! See you guys in a few! Cheap 1911A1 Here I come! T-Sauce!
 
with the pay box.
It's far more compact to have a box of specie than a pile of notes.

One of the stranger things about sharing a state room with the DisbO is that "the strong box" (even if empty) often has to share the space. Can be cool, as often you get to hang out with all the sidearms and web gear required. Less cool if you are trying to get in a couple of irreplaceable sleep hours after coming off Call to Quarters and the Forenoon Watch and have everyone come in and want to beg off the various "deducts" from their pay before hitting a Liberty Port.
Mind, the tables tun in the last 72 hour before a Landing if one is the Landing Operations Officer (almost worse as Beachmaster, almost).
 
Here is my UnBoxing! 1st off Comes with a water proof case! VERY NICE. 1st impresstion. Stiff like a starchy shirt. I stripped it and cleaned it. Comes with 2 Mec-gar mags 8 round. Did a empty case test…. NOPE, don’t feed. Loaded FMJ, and it feed.

Pros, after clean and lube, it was smoother. Nice all black look, needs thiner grips but carries nice. Good quality for $319 + tax

Con: I don’t like the mags, the are the cheap part of this gun. Will get some WC Mags and have a go.

??? Would you go with a 7 rd or 8 rd mag?

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I was looking for a cheap 1911 to put alot of ammo through. I looked at all the cheaper brands. I talked to my local gunsmith, he is an older guy, and a 1911 fan. he said he would buy a rock island, and avoid the cheaper ones. I took his advice. I found a used one, with quite a few finish flaws, and needed a rear sight, for $300. it shoots pretty well, and I dont mind it getting a ding or a scratch.
 
An empty case test? How is this relevant other than bragging rights? Case looks like it has a belled mouth.
I got Mec-Gar mags with my ATI Commander .45acp---it ran good---bought 2 more---using them for 3 years---very reliable.
 
An empty case test? How is this relevant other than bragging rights? Case looks like it has a belled mouth.
I got Mec-Gar mags with my ATI Commander .45acp---it ran good---bought 2 more---using them for 3 years---very reliable.
I don’t know, everyone said run a empty cases to see if it feeds… Idk, just doing what the internet tells me. But these mags are stiff and gritty and rd 8 is impossible to load
 
You get what you pay for.
Cost is not always a good way to determine utility. A lot depends on what you want something to do.

HiPoints are known for both their low price and by the love their owners have for their reliability and the fun factor. By and large they are not real attractive but quite serviceable guns, although the price point is being approached these days by better firearms in similar calibres.

I don't know anything personally about this particular firearm but I would trust the opinion of one person who owns one and shoots it regularly over the opinion of a dozen people who think poorly of it solely on the basis of price.
 
There are worse mags than Mec-Gar; but, buy what works for you (which is also the answer to the 7 versus 8 question).

The black grips on black is pretty stark, so a change there is probably for the better.
I’m looking for something thin with the grips. You guy recommended any version of Wilson Combat mags? I had great luck with them on my Colt Defender
 
recommended any
There are probably more options for grips for 1911 than there are 1911 in existence.
For significantly thinner, you probably need to look at metal stocks, although, from memory, there may be some super-slim Micarta and the like out there.

What you probably need is a large-ish gun show (say 500-1000 tables) as they would be likely to have 4 vendors with 1911 stocks you could actually lay hands upon.

WC mage are near indestructible, 7 or 8 rounders, both. They will probably be about $40 each, too. The Chip McCormick ones are also good, and might be $25-30 each (I've only used the 7s in those). Fundamentally, they are magazines, you used them until they don't work, and trash them if they don't. They are right at the edge of "readily expendable."
 
There are probably more options for grips for 1911 than there are 1911 in existence.
For significantly thinner, you probably need to look at metal stocks, although, from memory, there may be some super-slim Micarta and the like out there.

What you probably need is a large-ish gun show (say 500-1000 tables) as they would be likely to have 4 vendors with 1911 stocks you could actually lay hands upon.

WC mage are near indestructible, 7 or 8 rounders, both. They will probably be about $40 each, too. The Chip McCormick ones are also good, and might be $25-30 each (I've only used the 7s in those). Fundamentally, they are magazines, you used them until they don't work, and trash them if they don't. They are right at the edge of "readily expendable."
They got different models of mags, I think I’ll just pick a random WC 8 mag until I get one that works, then buy 5 of them
 
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