Cheap 1911A1: SDS any good for $319

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I don’t know, everyone said run a empty cases to see if it feeds… Idk, just doing what the internet tells me. But these mags are stiff and gritty and rd 8 is impossible to load

No one says run empty cases and see if it feeds. It does not mimic the way the guns actually feeds a round. :thumbdown:

Before you buy $35 Wilson mags for your $319 1911 fun the Mecgars with real bullets. If the gun is built right it will feed. It is a machine it does not have a choice. Mecgars are not my preferred 1911 mag but they are fine. This thread just keeps getting better. :rofl:
 
Wilson makes a lot of fine magazines. However, in their line-up, the 47D is not their best mag. It is probably near the bottom of their line-up. Not that it is a bad mag, just that the 7 round 47 uses the same length tube for a 7 round mag, giving a better spring and follower than the 47D.

If you need an 8 rounder from Wilson, anything from their ETM line-up will be better than a 47D, since they have a longer tube and were designed from the start as 8 rounders and not a converted 7 rounder like the 47D.

Wilson 47 https://shopwilsoncombat.com/7-Round-45-ACP-Magazines/products/370/

Wilson ETM line-up https://shopwilsoncombat.com/45-ACP-Elite-Tactical-Magazines/products/378/
 
No one says run empty cases and see if it feeds. It does not mimic the way the guns actually feeds a round. :thumbdown:

Before you buy $35 Wilson mags for your $319 1911 fun the Mecgars with real bullets. If the gun is built right it will feed. It is a machine it does not have a choice. Mecgars are not my preferred 1911 mag but they are fine. This thread just keeps getting better. :rofl:
I kinda want to send it out and
get a tigger job, new bushings, full length guide rod, maybe the Dawson tool-less, maybe a beavertail too,
 
There is also this video "the 47D, 10 lbs of ... in a 5 lb bag"


This is my 1st full size single stack 1911. I’ll probably get a bunch more. So getting good quality mags are important to me
 
Back in the late 90's, I used the 47D's for daily carry in my Commander, as they were, at the time anyway, supposed to be the best. They worked OK for the most part, but weren't 100% in function. More like 98%.

The annoying thing with them is the big witness slots in the body. They quickly load up (and I do mean "load up") with crap and dust bunnies, especially the mags carried in your belt carriers. They require constant disassembly and cleaning.

I still have those mags and use them for practice mags now, and for that, they are fine. If I were to go back to carrying a 45 1911, Id find something else.

Just an FYI too, of all the 1911 mags Ive used over the years, the factory Colt and USGI 7 round contract mags are the only mags that worked 99.9% in all my 1911's, regardless of make. I got a bunch of the blued GI mags back in the early 90's for $5 a piece, and still have a bunch of them. Still the best of the lot too.
 
There are a lot of good 1911 mag options out there. My mag of choice is the 7 round, full size, 47. If I wanted an 8 rounder from Wilson, I'd pick something from the ETM line-up. You don't need to go the Vickers route, unless you're rolling in the sand all day, just the basic ETM mag will be fine.

If you have to have an 8 rounder, the extended tube length is the way to go. Tripp Cobra Mags, Wilson ETM, Chip McCormick Railed Power Mags are all good 8 rounders.

Edit to add: Since I prefer 7 rounders, if I can't get the Wilson 47, my backup mag of choice is this CheckMate 7 rounder https://www.topgunsupply.com/check-...f-removable-base-full-size-1911-magazine.html
 
I kinda want to send it out and
get a tigger job, new bushings, full length guide rod, maybe the Dawson tool-less, maybe a beavertail too,

See, and that right there is exactly the problem with a $319.00 1911.
By the time you do all of your custom enhancements, now it's a $1000.00 1911.
You could have bought one with better sights, trigger, beavertail, flgr and more, for less money.
When I bought my RIA GI model, that was exactly what I wanted. When I bought my S&W 1911 I paid more, but it had everything I wanted.
I'm not poo pooing cheaper guns, hell, I bought 2 used HRRs last week.
I'm far from a gun Snob. I'm just saying that buying cheap, then dumping the rest of your gun budget for the year into upgrades is rarely the best route to take.
 
See, and that right there is exactly the problem with a $319.00 1911.
By the time you do all of your custom enhancements, now it's a $1000.00 1911.
You could have bought one with better sights, trigger, beavertail, flgr and more, for less money.
When I bought my RIA GI model, that was exactly what I wanted. When I bought my S&W 1911 I paid more, but it had everything I wanted.
I'm not poo pooing cheaper guns, hell, I bought 2 used HRRs last week.
I'm far from a gun Snob. I'm just saying that buying cheap, then dumping the rest of your gun budget for the year into upgrades is rarely the best route to take.
I was just day dreaming, I’m going to YouTube, “ How to do a trigger Job” and break out my Flizt and Dremel

update tonight!!!
 
This is my 1st full size single stack 1911. I’ll probably get a bunch more. So getting good quality mags are important to me

Quality mags are important but you have to remember that they are disposable wear parts. If you are doing it right you are dropping them on the ground slamming them into a magwell and generally abusing them. You will eventually throw them in the trash because they don't work so good.

I was just day dreaming, I’m going to YouTube, “ How to do a trigger Job” and break out my Flizt and Dremel

update tonight!!!

Leave the damn thing alone and shoot it. More idiots with dremels destroy perfectly good 1911s than anything else. Shoot the stock platform and learn about it before you mess with the pistol in anyway. Maybe you are joking maybe you don't know any better. I can't wait for my SDS 1911 sucks and does not run thread....
 
See, and that right there is exactly the problem with a $319.00 1911.
By the time you do all of your custom enhancements, now it's a $1000.00 1911.

Oh but you left out the best part. It's not worth more than a couple hundred as its nothing but a used 300 dollar gun.
 
just finished polish with a flet tips, flitz, and dremel. Shined everything, polish all the contacts that’s metal to metal, slide and frame rubbing thing…. conclusion: Felt the same, except: Safety clicks better, trigger bow polish really help with grittiness, trigger felt a little nicer - smoother. And that’s all I’m doing… except maybe figure out how lighten the mag release button, it’s stiff
 
Oh but you left out the best part. It's not worth more than a couple hundred as its nothing but a used 300 dollar gun.

Winner winner chicken dinnner! This is also a perfect example of why you do not buy used low end 1911s from unknown sources.
 
bro, It’s my gun, I can buff it until it become a mirror. or a lawn ornament. Take it easy

This!^^^^^ It is your gun, your purchasing choice. I know two who have the TISAS U.S. Army model and really like them. The naysayers have probably never handled one, let alone shot one.
I do like my SA mil-spec, but, wouldn't have a problem picking up a TISAS model. Enjoy that gun.
 
This!^^^^^ It is your gun, your purchasing choice. I know two who have the TISAS U.S. Army model and really like them. The naysayers have probably never handled one, let alone shot one.
I do like my SA mil-spec, but, wouldn't have a problem picking up a TISAS model. Enjoy that gun.
1st off apologize for getting testi, not a negative energy guy at all, just need some coffee.

I handled the full blown t-sauce version with extended ambi and beavertail, rail, 3-dot sights… and it’s slick! I might have enough money by the end of summer to buy one. Locally around $550

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If you want something to fool with you could take apart those magazines, clean them, and make sure they are properly assembled. I wouldn’t lubricate them. About all I usually do with a new gun prior to shooting it is clean it & make sure it is properly lubricated.
 
If you want something to fool with you could take apart those magazines, clean them, and make sure they are properly assembled. I wouldn’t lubricate them. About all I usually do with a new gun prior to shooting it is clean it & make sure it is properly lubricated.
tonight! I’ll take the mag apart, and see what I can buff. also going to take a look at the mag release, need to lighten that by a million pounds. Trigger bow too, polish the inside.
 
just finished polish with a flet tips, flitz, and dremel. Shined everything, polish all the contacts that’s metal to metal, slide and frame rubbing thing…. conclusion: Felt the same, except: Safety clicks better, trigger bow polish really help with grittiness, trigger felt a little nicer - smoother. And that’s all I’m doing… except maybe figure out how lighten the mag release button, it’s stiff
Honestly, I still haven't figured out if you're having fun with us or if you're serious. If you did what you wrote, sorry if I tell you honestly, but it makes no sense. Judging the quality and functioning of the magazines of one of the most reputable magazine builders in the world without having fired one single shot with them, wanting to buy $35 a piece aftermarket magazines on a $319 pistol before even trying the stock ones, polishing the parts in contact without having fired one single shot, doing a trigger job without first firing an adequate number of rounds so the parts in contact can show by themselves the surfaces on which to possibly intervene, these are all things that make no sense either logically or even less on a technical level. Another thing that you overlook when doing a trigger job on parts that you don't know the manufacturing and surface hardening method is that, in many cases, on inexpensive guns the heat treatment is so superficial on small parts that, once that is removed, the underlying metal is softer and wears out faster.

I am not a gun snob. Among other pistols I have a Pardini GT9-1 and a Sig-Sauer P226 (not exactly cheap pistols) but I also have a Taurus G3, a Norinco Olympia and a Weihrauch revolver. Well, it's like, in my case, spending $80 to replace the still working, correctly factory adjusted plastic sights on my $250 Taurus G3 without even shooting it. What sense would that make?

That said, each of us does what he wants with his money and his stuff. As far as I'm concerned you can also take a drill and make holes in the slide to decrease its mass but please don't tell us and don't publish the photos because these are things that could be disturbing. So if you intend to do so, maybe please post a warning first.
 
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bro, It’s my gun, I can buff it until it become a mirror. or a lawn ornament. Take it easy

No one said you can't do what you want with you gun I am simply laughing at the absurdity of this thread. You admittedly know nothing about the 1911 platform yet before ever firing a round out of your new $300 1911 you took a dremel to it and polished it because the oem mag would not feed and empty case. People tried to help you and tell you not to do that. More 1911s are ruined by people who do not know how to work on them "trying to make them better". What you are describing is a classic Bubbaing of a 1911. I like @5-SHOTS can't tell if you are serious or just trolling. Either way I don't care anymore. I am out. Good luck... What is stunning to me is that you have not even shot the damn thing yet.

This!^^^^^ It is your gun, your purchasing choice. I know two who have the TISAS U.S. Army model and really like them. The naysayers have probably never handled one, let alone shot one.
I do like my SA mil-spec, but, wouldn't have a problem picking up a TISAS model. Enjoy that gun.

I love this kind of post. Most people in this thread are not downing the Tisas 1911 they are questioning what this guy wants to do to it and what he has already done to it. @tarosean is 100% correct that you know what you get when you take a $300 1911 and put $300 worth of upgrade on it. You get a $300 1911. It is not the the Tisas is no good it simply is what it is. Contrast that with a Colt 1911. You can get a Colt Classic 70 for $800 and shoot 1000 rounds out of it and sell it for $800. If you take care of it and do proper and professional upgrades to it you can get your money out. This is simply not the case when you are talking about a $300. The Tisas guns are fine. IMHO right now they are the best low $$$ option when it comes to 1911s. I just would never put money into one. I certainly would not polish is if I had 0 experience on the platform before even shooting it.

At this point in the gun malfunctions the owner has no idea if it was his expert Dremel work that is causing the malfunctions or was the pistol defective from the start. On top of that depending on the company he may have voided his warranty. LMAO
 
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