By and large, gun cleaning products and lubes are a marketing gimmick.

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I use Kroil for cleaning. It doesn't ''dry out'' the appearance of nitride or melonite finishes that are becoming more popular.

Then I use my own homebrew lube. It ain't rocket science, but for pistols, it's thicker than just oil.
 
I think this all comes down to what is easiest and most convenient. And what is logical in the face of marketing gurus.

While dish soap and water may work just fine, it is easier for me to sit on the couch or stand at the gun bench and use a little bottle of cleaner than it is to risk death by being caught cleaning guns in the kitchen sink. Then, once the gun is done being cleaned, I do not have to worry about ensuring there isn’t water left somewhere in the gun to rust. Water left behind may not matter much when it comes to a modern gun like an AR but when it comes to a Colt Woodsman or some other fine antique, I don’t want to risk it.

As far as lube goes, I was recently hit with the epiphany that, if Mobil 1 synthetic will work under pressure and at 10,000 rpm in an engine and costs far less than any gun oil, why use anything else? What could any gun lube offer that modern synthetic motor oil can’t do? I got tired of lubing guns with a bonafide gun lube, only to find the gun seemed dry the next day. Motor oil doesn’t evaporate like most gun oils seem to. And, if you are cheap like me, I don’t even use Mobil 1 unless I have it on hand, I use Wal-Mart Supertech full synthetic.
 
As far as lube goes, I was recently hit with the epiphany that, if Mobil 1 synthetic will work under pressure and at 10,000 rpm in an engine and costs far less than any gun oil, why use anything else? What could any gun lube offer that modern synthetic motor oil can’t do?
That's an excellent question, but I cannot do it justice.

I've been using Mobil 1 in cars since 1975. There have been several generations of it since then. I have not really kept up with the subject.

One of the advantages that I recall is that the molecules were less reactive than those in conventional oil, and that they were much less likely to form sludge when combined with combustion products.

Another is that, because the molecules were of uniform size and weight, they did not evaporate at different weights, and the viscosity did not increase over time.

They also provided greater lubricity without adding things like teflon.

Practically speaking, only the third of those means much of anything when using it to lube a bolt or a slide, and we do not need to avoid teflon.

There are reasons why other lubes may be somewhat better than today's Mobil 1 for lubricating firearms. The EPA has put limits on the amount of zinc and other additives that can be used in motor oils for street use. That detracts from the lubricity of the mixture. That does not apply to the Mobil 1 Racing Formulation, which is not for street use.

One other thing. and I'm not sure of this one. One of the reasons that Mobil 1 does not form sludge in automobile engines is said to be that it leaves less of a film on cylinder walls. That could mean that it does not stay as well on gun parts.

Keep in mid that an engine oil serves to cool, to prevent metal-on-metal contact, and to clean. It must flow. It is preferable for gun oil to not flow very much.
 
If it moves I use LSA and Lubeplate Lithium Grease depending of what part it is, solvent Hoppes 9 none have ever let me down copper fouling Sweets 762 or Witch's Brew. J-B Bore cleaner at times, many yrs back at the World Shoot I .asked a Perazzi gunsmith what was that lube he had. "Valvoline 50 wt oil" on a brush he used it on everything.
 
If it moves I use LSA and Lubeplate Lithium Grease depending of what part it is, solvent Hoppes 9 none have ever let me down copper fouling Sweets 762 or Witch's Brew. J-B Bore cleaner at times, many yrs back at the World Shoot I .asked a Perazzi gunsmith what was that lube he had. "Valvoline 50 wt oil" on a brush he used it on everything.
Sounds as if you have found some excellent choices in terms of marketing gimmicks.
 
One problem I have with water is that it can cause oxidation and rust. It only takes a tiny amount in tight spots to cause rust. My trigger groups are too important to risk it. If you take your gun completely apart every time you clean it then I can see using soap and water. Otherwise I'll just do it the same way I have for over 50 years with zero problems.
 
Question for those using motor oil as a lubricant: Do you prefer standard or synthetic? Also, what weight oil?


It really wouldn't matter. The friction surfaces of a firearm aren't subject to anywhere near the pressures that, say crankshaft or rod bearings are. Nor is the metallurgy nearly as sophisticated. Pretty much anything that doesn't run off or gum up would be sufficient.
 
I have seen 0w20 recommended by most folks. It might just be because those people have cars that call for it specifically though. I have used it before and I use 5w20 because that is what my car takes.
 
At great risk of tarnishing my....good?...reputation here. (oh no) Here is a picture of everything I have on hand right this second that I have used for gun cleaning and lubrication. I have never used soap and water and I don't have WD-40 at the moment.

Please note, that these are not all products I currently use. Just ones I have used now and in the past. I will let you use your imagination as to the ones I currently use. Hint: If it has a fancy label, odds are I bought it for its intended purpose. If its a lubricating oil then most likely it is used for lubrication.

No product here is going to hurt a gun when used in accordance with its respective label (or a modicum of what I define as sense). Guns are not magical or fragile. They are a combination of machined metal and plastic parts with some wood thrown in on occasion these days. All the physical actions inherent to the operation of a gun can be undone using simple science or if your not into science, hard scrubbing. Now that can hurt a gun.


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That's an excellent question, but I cannot do it justice.

I've been using Mobil 1 in cars since 1975. There have been several generations of it since then. I have not really kept up with the subject.

One of the advantages that I recall is that the molecules were less reactive than those in conventional oil, and that they were much less likely to form sludge when combined with combustion products.

Another is that, because the molecules were of uniform size and weight, they did not evaporate at different weights, and the viscosity did not increase over time.

They also provided greater lubricity without adding things like teflon.

Practically speaking, only the third of those means much of anything when using it to lube a bolt or a slide, and we do not need to avoid teflon.

There are reasons why other lubes may be somewhat better than today's Mobil 1 for lubricating firearms. The EPA has put limits on the amount of zinc and other additives that can be used in motor oils for street use. That detracts from the lubricity of the mixture. That does not apply to the Mobil 1 Racing Formulation, which is not for street use.

One other thing. and I'm not sure of this one. One of the reasons that Mobil 1 does not form sludge in automobile engines is said to be that it leaves less of a film on cylinder walls. That could mean that it does not stay as well on gun parts.

Keep in mid that an engine oil serves to cool, to prevent metal-on-metal contact, and to clean. It must flow. It is preferable for gun oil to not flow very much.

How about this... Mobil 1 is formulated for cars and gun cleaners and oils are formulated for guns. I quit trying to re-invent the wheel a long time ago. These industries spend a lot of money and time formulating these products. I'll trust their expertise.
 
How about this... Mobil 1 is formulated for cars and gun cleaners and oils are formulated for guns. I quit trying to re-invent the wheel a long time ago. These industries spend a lot of money and time formulating these products. I'll trust their expertise.

Or those industries have 'reinvented' the wheel, put it in a different package and sold it to you at a higher price.
 
My pappy always said, "Any oil is better than no oil."
I'm thinking about trying olive oil, so it smells like Italian food when I shoot. Maybe I'll try lard.

I forgot to eat lunch...………… better get on that.

I know some people shoot a hell of a lot more than I do, but when I buy a bottle of Hoppe's, I get the big one, and it lasts me probably 2 to 3 years. It really doesn't take that much to do a good cleaning job even on a heavily fouled gun, and that product, along with many others is obviously very effective. I guess I don't necessarily see why it's a problem.

There's lots of stuff I don't need, but I choose to use because it makes life a little easier.
 
Either the aerosol or the liquid works. I know guys running top-end O/Us who simply toss their choke tubes into a jar of WD-40 and let 'em soak and just him 'em the next day. One of 'em I know buys by the gallon, 'cause he brought me a quart jar full of the stuff at the club the other day. (Before the C-19 thing, of course; that club's fields are closed now :( )

Cool. I bought a 500 in great condition for a relative song with streaks of wadding in it. Going to give that a try.

Re WD-40 as a protectant, that's cool. Haven't really tried it on my firearms for any length of time 'cause I give the external metal a wipe with G96 before I put 'em back in the safe. Stuff's been doing real well for me for about 20 years, easily.

I don't use it on guns mostly because I use Renaissance Wax. It's one of the better products I mentioned, makes things look good and holds up better under handling. Costs a lot more, but at least it lasts. WD would work if you don't have anything else and keep it to external metal.
I do use WD40 on tools, since they would wiped down and reapplication after use anyway. IMO the only thing it's the best fluid for is clearing out water, but it's a passable field expedient for a lot of things.

For the gun bench, my fluids are Hoppes for cleaning, 5w30 for lubrication and preservation, and janitor's ammonia for copper fouling. I'd grab some Sweets or something if I had more of a problem with the latter, because the ammonia helps but doesn't stick where it needs to and may cause issues with wear in chromed barrels.

Best choices? Probably not. Good choices, and at 10% the cost of specialized products that might cut out a couple minutes of work.

In the field, my toolbox has WD40 and a bottle of 5w30 or 3-in-1, and my range bag has a bottle of CLP. Good enough until I get home.
 
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In the miniscule amounts that I use, even Lucas Extreme Gun Oil is laughably inexpensive. Hoppe's #9 may rot my brain but again, small amounts of solvent and small amounts of brain. Just for Pete's sake use what's handy and that has worked for eons.

And Four Roses Small Batch for recalibration once the guns are maintained and stowed!
 
If you are going above and way beyond the price of rem oil, hoppes, and hoppes solvent and rem drilube, you are throwing money away on that snake oil.
Feel free though, it is America.
 
Cool. I bought a 500 in great condition for a relative song with streaks of wadding in it. Going to give that a try. ...

Let that WD-40 have some soak time in the bore (muzzle down). Heck, overnight won't hurt anything. Follow with your brass (bronze-phosphor) bore brush and some patches. Will probably do fine.
I'd mention the brush on a rod chucked into a drill, but there are probably guys here who would get a screaming case of the vapors.
 
Like FireClean/Crisco???

Bing to the O.
Vegetable-based and seed-based oils will work well enough for a fast clean and immediate use.
Store 'em, they gum.
Let's not even go down the "track lube" road. Another of the great all-time "marketing" jobs. Geez.
 
I am fairly serious about bicycles, and on the bicycle websites there are the same kinds of threads regarding what to use for cleaning and lubricating chains as there are about cleaning and lubricating guns here.

Many years ago there was a fellow who claimed to have developed the single best lubricant for bicycle chains that ever had existed. Many of us, myself included, ordered a small expensive bottle of the stuff and it did indeed work better than anything we had ever tried. When it later came out that it was just repackaged Mobil 1, general outrage ensued. I laughed my socks off, figuring it was a cheap lesson, relatively speaking.

Which is a long winded way of saying yeah, Mobil 1 ftw.
 
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I am fairly serious about bicycles, and on the bicycle websites there are about the same kinds of threads regarding what to use for cleaning and lubricating chains as there are about guns here.

Many years ago there was a fellow who claimed to have developed the single best lubricant for bicycle chains that ever had existed. Many of us, myself included, ordered the small expensive bottle of the stuff and it did indeed work better than anything we had ever tried. When it later came out that it was just repackaged Mobil 1, general outrage ensued. I laughed my socks of, figuring it was a cheap lesson, relatively speaking.

Which is a long winded way of saying yeah, Mobil 1 ftw.

Yep.
For a long time, I was a motor oil skeptic when it came to guns. Shot a lot, read a lot, tried a lot of things. Finally, said WTH, let's give it a try. Guess what? Excellent performer as a lube, no doubt about it.
Here's where guys get all bunged up, IMO: The amount of oil we generally need/actually use as a lubricant in firearms is pretty darn small. All I want is good lubrication (including boundary lubrication), the right adhesion/thickness/migration properties and all-weather performance. I find Mobil 1 does all that in the way I want, expect.
So, yeah. I keep a CLP for cleaning and protecant. I keep a grease or two around for certain apps (especially certain points on my O/U shotguns).
But for actual gun oil as a lubricant, I"m finding Mobil 1 from a needle oiler turns the trick dandy indeed, and a quart bottle is probably more than a lifetime supply.

Another thing that works really well -- as long as Teflon doesn't give you the heebie jeebies: Super Lube.Mutli-Purpose Synthetic. The oil and the grease. And if you're using solely as a lube, you'd have a hard time killing either a 4 oz bottle of the oil or a 3 oz tube of the grease (each go about $5) over literally years.
We way over-complicate this.
 
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