Marlin 336 sights - what's best for low/bad light?

Resistance is futile. Something like this is the only real answer, even for guys with perfect vision. I gave up trying to use iron sights for anything other than playing at the range years ago. Two years ago I killed a buck 25 minutes before sunup in heavy canopy with a scope just like this. (legal shooting time is 30 minutes before sunrise). No way I could have taken that shot with irons even 40 years ago. I could clearly see the buck and count points at 50 yards.

https://www.swfa.com/leupold-15-4x20-vx-freedom-riflescope-178471.html?___SID=U



I understand not wanting to add a scope to a lever gun. But I have one on the lever rifle I actually plan to hunt with. The others are range toys. Something small and compact like this isn't too bad. With it in 1X-1.5X it is FASTER to get on target than irons in any light and don't let the small objective fool you for low light use. On 4X or less it lets in exactly the same amount of light a 40mm scope does on 8X or less.

And priced at $199 it isn't much more than quality iron sights.

I used a weaver mount and aluminum irosighter rings, if you do go with a scope. Worked well. A quality scope adds 30 min. to your hunting day over iron sights. I do think green dot might be the brightest fiber. Red is always my first choice though.

Turnbull base to replace the rear sight, and stick a Burris FastFire on top. Sleek and more precise than any iron options.

if your distance vision is fine, go with the burris setup. if not, a scope like that little 1-4x leupold is the ticket.

A properly mounted, quality scope of appropriate power is the best sighting device a rifle can have. It is fastest to acquire the target, helps with target identification, is the most accurate sighting device, and can compensate for eyesight issues.

You guys who say the scope is best are obviously right. But I just HATE to ugly up my lever actions so I feel the OP's pain. I think he's asking what the SECOND best option is.

On a 336, the XS Ghost Rings are great low light sights.

Scope or red dot. Flashy iron sights are only going to blind you to the target.

My 336 .35 Rem is the only lever gun I have that’s scoped. I bought it off GB this way from a seller in Michigan, it came with a fixed 4X perched on it.

As much as I don’t like the looks of a scoped lever gun at all, 1” 3-shot cloverleafs at 100 yds. with Rem 200 core-lokt (or even the old 150’s single-loaded) is nothing to sneeze at from an old lever.

My eyes are fading as well, and man do I hate it!

Stay safe.

Quality red dot like the Aimpoint Micro or large ghost ring aperture. Aperture sights do lose light, the smaller the aperture the more light is lost. If you’re talking about really dark situations you’ll need sights with tritium inserts.

BSW

I've been really happy with Williams firesights with red insert. The fiber optics are visible in very low light.

XS big Tritium dot with surrounding colored circle and the Williams twilight aoetyre works even for us oldsters to 50 yards or maybe 75. Marlin s do handle scopes or red dots well. A lighted low power scope is very very good. The Vortex 1-6x scope can be had for about $259 on sale. The fast fire 4 Burris is great under 100 yards

I installed a new Williams aperture rear sight, and kept the factory front sight intact. Sighted it in, and enjoyed the Marlin 336 that way.

Ivory bead front sight. I have trouble in low light with red, and I prefer a larger bead.

Dunross said:

So, after mulling it over for a while I've decided I want to put a classic Williams Fool Proof aperture sight on my Marlin 336.

What I'm in a quandary about now is the front sight. I'm going to shoot it for a while with the factory sight, but my eyes aren't getting any younger which makes picking it up in poor/low light occasionally problematical. If this proves to still be the case after I've put the Williams FP on what should I change the front out to?

Fiber optic seems to be the way to go. Red seems to be the overwhelming color in terms of availability, but would green be better? Red seems to be the first color to fade out as the light fails. Maybe just painting the front sight white or bright orange? Or is there a better option?

Further along this line is the Williams "Twilight Aperture" worthwhile? Make any difference in how fast one picks up the sights in poor light?

Thanks.

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I haven't an answer to your question about the front sight. But I would disagree with the rest that insist a red dot or a scope are the way. As long as you - and you seem to - understand the limitations that the open sights place on shot selection, then I'd proceed as planned. I love levers, carry 'em stomping in the woods, on the tractor, and kicking around in the neighborhood regularly. But if my intent is to hunt something other than vermin (i.e. deer, bear, etc), I use something I deem more efficient: a bolt with a scope. Around here, opportunities to take game are limited and the seasons and limits short (as in one). So with aging eyes and acknowledging that the best chances are at dawn and dusk, a rifle designed to use an optic is the way to go in my opinion. Levers, save for a few, have stocks built for open sights. With a scope, cheek welds become chin welds, not to mention the objective bell in the way of the hammer. But if its about the challenge of an ethical kill with open sights, I'm all in.

Varminterror said:

Turnbull base to replace the rear sight, and stick a Burris FastFire on top. Sleek and more precise than any iron options.

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These are FINALLY back in stock after months of being sold out so it would be a great idea to get one

I went with firesights on my 336. After months of trying to decide between Skinners, Lyman 66 or Williams FP I wound up with the Williams WGRS peep on the receiver. They less obtrusive on the gun than the FP and cheaper than the Skinners I put on my Marlin 94. I am pretty much going to sight the gun in with my load and lock them down anyway. I bought the set so hopefully I won't have to fool around changing front sights again. I won't know until the range opens.