moving a Safe alone?

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South Prairie Jim said:
If you can rent a dolly that climbs steps and a pallet jack to get the shipping extensions off you can can slide the safe on flat 5/4x4 strips with telflon tracks OR use the roller system. Either way it's a work out..
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thanks man! My reloading room is small. I think I’m going the route of custom hidden safe that protruding into the garage
 
Trim out the hidden safe with some left over maple moulding I have
 
I have used ones like these before.

https://pascorentals.com/rent/moving/heavy-duty-dual-dolly/

They work pretty good but if they have been used outdoors previously, will damage hardwood floors. Many short lengths of heavy wall PVC pipe spread the load out fairly well, leap frog action, out the back and placed in front again. Easier to control and more surface area on the floor than golf balls but you can spin a safe around on golf balls like little else.
 
jmorris said:
I have used ones like these before.

https://pascorentals.com/rent/moving/heavy-duty-dual-dolly/

They work pretty good but if they have been used outdoors previously, will damage hardwood floors. Many short lengths of heavy wall PVC pipe spread the load out fairly well, leap frog action, out the back and placed in front again. Easier to control and more surface area on the floor than golf balls but you can spin a safe around on golf balls like little else.
Click to expand...
nice! why re-invent the wheel. Roll them like logs
 
Low profile jack should be able to fit right under it with a cut piece of 1x6 to help keep the jack from maring the underside.
I moved my Hells Canyon safe this way and it worked perfectly.
Second time I moved the safe to the new house I used the same jack in the center holding most of the weight with two floor dollies on each side, rolls good and the jack can be moved to the edges if a sharp turn is needed.
Can be done alone but one other helping hand is better, two even mo better.
 
BluewaterLa said:
Low profile jack should be able to fit right under it with a cut piece of 1x6 to help keep the jack from maring the underside.
I moved my Hells Canyon safe this way and it worked perfectly.
Second time I moved the safe to the new house I used the same jack in the center holding most of the weight with two floor dollies on each side, rolls good and the jack can be moved to the edges if a sharp turn is needed.
Can be done alone but one other helping hand is better, two even mo better.
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I just remodeled the basement with the finest Home Depot carpet. and that’s the only way to get to the Reloading room. If I messed up that carpet, she would Red Flag me. I think cutting a hole in the garage wall into my reloading room is the safest bet
 
A good appliance dolly works great. Have done it more than once. Even moved a heavy concrete filled bank safe with it. Now a big wide body may be a little unwieldy...
 
Moved one thru the house by leapfrogging small sections of Hardboard Tempered Panels (smooth side up) to cover the floor and surprisingly at least to me those large furniture sliders that one could find in infomercials some years ago and now found at the likes of Menards. Ended up buying my help a steak dinner down at the Legion; think I overspent cause it wasn't that hard.

My early twenties were misspent tearing my guts out delivering large appliances with powered dollies. No thank you please......
 
I’ve rolled a TL15 safe on 3/4” PVC no problem. At first I thought the PVC would collapse but it can support quite a bit of weight. Especially if the weight is distributed amongst 4 or 5 of them.

Dan
 
jmorris said:
get some plywood cut to travel over
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Have you priced plywood lately?
9x19 is cheaper.

Find a flooring place and ask for cast off bits of vinyl flooring. Use shiny side down to protect the carpet.

Especially from the wheels of a rental pallet jack, which are likely going to have enough grit embedded to count as an abrasive.

Are those channels on the bottom bolted on?
 
I have a small Protectall safe. I've moved it myself a few times while I was in the Navy, and only once did that involve me alone trying to get that bugger up the loading ramp. I've never weighed it, but but it's about 30 inches tall with about 6" thick concrete filled sides.

Get help. Not only do you risk collateral damage to house and property, you risk serious damage to yourself, because when that bugger starts moving the way you don't want it to, you're NOT likely to stop it.

And back injuries will follow you the rest of your life.
 
Depending on the size of the safe, cardboard underneath it does wonders. Still a lot of huffing and a handtruck to get over door seals. But I'd still want at least one other person.
 
Also worth noting, many places carry those $40 4 wheel dollies which are usually rated at 1000lbs. I've used those to move many woodstoves. They would also work well on safes.
 
Cut a hole in the wall and stick the front of the safe in your room enough to trim. Trim it out inside and out and drywall the garage side to suit. Gives you easy moving and more space where you need it.

Or, an access door from the reloading room to the safe might be as easy and more better depending on your desires.
 
Thanks everyone, I can move safe in the Garage via PVC tubes or maybe just rocking it.

I’m going to mount the safe through garage with the safe door just peaking into my reloading room. Cut a nice hole and trim it out. I have some nice mounding left from a remodel. It should look good!

Redo the Garage and move the safe and have access to my safe in my reloading room.

WIN WIN
 
I never considered doing something like that before. Not a bad idea at all!
 
RCB said:
I never considered doing something like that before. Not a bad idea at all!
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Me either, untill one of the members suggested it!

Thank you MEMBER! you know who you are! Beers on me!
 
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