Lee 6000 press

Now with six stations, they need two more colors....... :):):)
As I understand it the colors are to make identification between die (functions) easier

You should be able to use the plain/white bushings for the more easily identifiable powder measure, bullet feeder, or powder check/Cop
 
As I understand it the colors are to make identification between die (functions) easier
You should be able to use the plain/white bushings for the more easily identifiable powder measure, bullet feeder, or powder check/Cop

Of course you could/can operate fine with four colors, operated fine for a longtime with one color, steel. But my OCD wants more anodized colors, just because.

What you have to do currently, by using their colors for the other three, size-red, seat-blue, crimp-gold. Sliver for everything else.
Okay, powder check die might not change.
Bullet feed might do a couple calibers per.
I used their color per function because they started that way, but I had better be able to tell function by looking at the die. Hardest one to tell difference between of Lee's, is dead length seater and regular seater/crimp die for me, and they would go in same station anyway on my setup.

Would just be nice. And they are anodizing them anyway. Down side is another part to manage/package/sell.
Of course just my opinion.

GD
 
Of course you could/can operate fine with four colors, operated fine for a longtime with one color, steel. But my OCD wants more anodized colors, just because.

My set up would drive your OCD nuts. I paid no attention to color and just set up the dies to whatever ring I grabbed. I could not tell you sitting here what color went with what function. I read the suggested color/functions in the directions. My first thought was if I cannot tell what die does what when I pick it up and look at it just commit me :) I realize some are a bit tough to tell at first glance but is color coding really a thing, and did we really need that ? Maybe......

-Jeff
 
My first thought was if I cannot tell what die does what when I pick it up and look at it just commit me :) I realize some are a bit tough to tell at first glance but is color coding really a thing, and did we really need that ? Maybe......
-Jeff

Totally agreed. "but I had better be able to tell function by looking at the die"
Color is just a fun detail ...........

15 years ago I had to ask Lee what the visual difference was between the dead length seater and regular seater/crimp die, obvious when they told me but I did not see it.

Thanks

GD
 
What is the best way to remove the primer trough? I know it is just a press fit, but it does not seem to want to come out easily.
 
What is the best way to remove the primer trough? I know it is just a press fit, but it does not seem to want to come out easily.
Why do you need to remove the chute/trough? If you need to remove the top carrier cover, tipping the back of cover up will allow the top cover with primer chute/trough attached to be pulled between frame columns.

It's more than a press fit. At the attachment point, there are two tabs that insert into the primer slider channel/trough slots as seen in picture below.

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These tabs have locking protrusions that expand into the slots cut into the primer slider channel/trough

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The locking protrusions expand into cutout slots shown below and require hard rocking motion to remove but removal will damage the plastic protrusions by shaving them each time and I would not recommend removal unless you are replacing the chute/trough.

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What is the best way to remove the primer trough? I know it is just a press fit, but it does not seem to want to come out easily.
The orientation of the primer chute with the primer slider trough is pretty critical in reliable feeding, through consistent presentation, of the primers to the primer guide. I would be avoid any action that might upset that orientation...by either not having it installed completely or having it loosen through being removed
 
Why do you need to remove the chute/trough? If you need to remove the top carrier cover, tipping the back of cover up will allow the top cover with primer chute/trough attached to be pulled between frame columns.

It's more than a press fit. At the attachment point, there are two tabs that insert into the primer slider channel/trough slots as seen in picture below.

index.php


These tabs have locking protrusions that expand into the slots cut into the primer slider channel/trough

index.php


The locking protrusions expand into cutout slots shown below and require hard rocking motion to remove but removal will damage the plastic protrusions by shaving them each time and I would not recommend removal unless you are replacing the chute/trough.

index.php

If I do remove it I will replace it. The pin that is supposed to ride up the post and hit the notch is not engaging the notch like it should. I am going to try and bend the rod slightly and if that doesn't work I was going to replace the through to see if that helps.
 
The orientation of the primer chute with the primer slider trough is pretty critical in reliable feeding, through consistent presentation, of the primers to the primer guide. I would be avoid any action that might upset that orientation...by either not having it installed completely or having it loosen through being removed

Yes, I was aware of that. If I do remove I will replace with a new one.
 
The pin that is supposed to ride up the post and hit the notch is not engaging the notch like it should. I am going to try and bend the rod slightly and if that doesn't work I was going to replace the through to see if that helps.
I thought that at first, but the pin is simply pressed in the hole so any bend that could move the chute/trough more could simply rotate away from the frame column as primer chute/trough is much stiffer than the more flexible primer chute/trough for the Pro 1000.

I am still troubleshooting the primers moving from tray down into the chute/trough opening and looking instead of ways to flick/shake the primer tray.
 
I thought that at first, but the pin is simply pressed in the hole so any bend that could move the chute/trough more could simply rotate away from the frame column as primer chute/trough is much stiffer than the more flexible primer chute/trough for the Pro 1000.

I am still troubleshooting the primers moving from tray down into the chute/trough opening and looking instead of ways to flick/shake the primer tray.

I have 2 of the Presses and one has better engagement then the one I am messing with. I am having a problem with this press not feeding the primers from the tray, I have to watch it and give the tray a good thumping occasionally to get the primers to move down, have tried different trays and have the same problem. This is one area that the Loadmaster does a much better job then the Six Pack Pro.
 
I am having a problem with this press not feeding the primers from the tray, I have to watch it and give the tray a good thumping occasionally to get the primers to move down, have tried different trays and have the same problem.
Yes, I agree that this is one area of SPP/Pro 6000 that needs improvement.
 
I have 2 of the Presses and one has better engagement then the one I am messing with. I am having a problem with this press not feeding the primers from the tray, I have to watch it and give the tray a good thumping occasionally to get the primers to move down, have tried different trays and have the same problem. This is one area that the Loadmaster does a much better job then the Six Pack Pro.

Putting zip-ties (many sizes to choose from) in the grooves on the column could get you the shake of the primer tray you need, without removing/modifying/replacing the offending tray.
If the pin does not contact those added zip-ties, you could you line up the end joints of the zip-ties to stick-out further from the frame for contact.
just sayin'
:D
.
 
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Yes, and I am having more problems with small primers then I am with large primers.

Try a different tray, I had a small primer issue with one of the new type trays.

I agree with all said above in principle.
I have had my primer trough off and back on several times and still works just fine. I do have a spare.

The pin which rubs the frame column was not a snug fit, others have commented on it, and did not contact the frame column well. So me being me, I removed the pin, put the tiniest bend in it, put it back in trough oriented properly and applied a dab of super glue to both sides and let it sit over night. After install it wiggles just fine going up an down, has no issues with small primers and is still doing fine, but only a few hundred rounds processed so far. Last run of 100 each, 40 S&W, I checked it many times and trough was always full. This is the tray which likes small primers better also though.

Right now I am confident it is functioning.

GD
 
The pin that is supposed to ride up the post and hit the notch is not engaging the notch like it should.
The pin which rubs the frame column was not a snug fit, others have commented on it, and did not contact the frame column well.
OK, after troubleshooting the pin not contacting the groove rings of the press column, I considered bending the pin or zip tie option but ruled them out as bent pin could rotate and thought there was a better resolution option than using zip ties.

So root-cause-analysis came down to primer chute/trough pin being slightly away from the press groove rings. So why not make up that space with a sleeve that could act as a roller?

So using a piece of pen filler, a sleeve roller was made and now the pin contacts the groove rings better - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-oal-consistency.911743/page-13#post-12477680

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OK, after troubleshooting the pin not contacting the groove rings of the press column, I considered bending the pin or zip tie option but ruled them out as bent pin could rotate and thought there was a better resolution option than using zip ties.
So using a piece of pen filler, a sleeve roller was made and now the pin contacts the groove rings better - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-oal-consistency.911743/page-13#post-12477680

I tested the zip tie thing a couple weeks ago, did not like it.

With bent pin, so far so good.

Really like this idea and will probably have to test it also.

GD
 
OK, after troubleshooting the pin not contacting the groove rings of the press column
So root-cause-analysis came down to primer chute/trough pin being slightly away from the press groove rings. So why not make up that space with a sleeve that could act as a roller?
That picture really helped me understand what you guys were talking about.

On my press, that pin is centered on the primer trough, it barely brushes that column...I thought that was normal as that's how it came out of the box

Pressing on the pin, I noticed that it moves freely. So I pushed it over, like in your picture, and it now rides over both grooves on the column and shudders slightly each time
 
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