P95Carry, a Webley question...

Status
Not open for further replies.

November

Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2002
Messages
111
P95Carry,
I read a couple of weeks ago that you stripped and re-blued a mkVI. At the last Valley Forge show in September, I picked up a converted .455/45acp mkVI for $175 whose finish could use a fair amount of TLC. Did you just sand the old finish away? Were you careful about not removing the original markings, proof marks, etc.? This is my first Webley and I don't want to screw it up. I detail stripped it to remove all the cosmoline/grease, put it back together and took it to the range. With regular 230 gr. hardball it was very accurate with almost no recoil. Those moonclips are convenient, too. Any info on the refinishing process would be appreciated.
-November
 
November ....... aha .. just spotted this post of yours .... about to get on with some work (always keep ''slipping back'' in here for too long!! )

I'll post another coupla pics of mine shortly ... and try and give ya some info on what i did ...

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Quick edit to add ........... ''Joined Dec 2002'' ..... ''Posts 7'' ..... where the hell have ya been??! :)
 
Last edited:
OK ..... well, here are a coupla pics within which I have tried to retain a bit of surface detail .. without making pics too huge. One pic from each side. Doesn't show enough but might help.

Now then ...... this gun was originally in pretty bad shape ... surface rust .... marks, dings ... far from good... even small pitting spots in places.

I elected to go the ''coarse'' route! By this I mean ... after a total strip down . I used a rotary wire wheel (fine) to totally remove all rust . This meant being quite tough on some parts ... but, I did attempt to keep the direction of work in line with already existing longitudinal lines/scratches . on barrel in particular. Cylinder in fact was not too bad...... so minimal wire work on that. The addition of marks thru wire wheel use was.... you may be surprised ..... minimal .. but then the bristles were way softer than the gun steel.

Short of ''pickling'' to remove rust this physical method seemed best ... altho sounding pretty drastic to most I guess.

It was quite successful ... and for the most part .. parts were taken back to ''self-finish'' ... steel!! Next stage was with finest wire wool .... and a lot of elbow grease . working on more stubborn areas and using non greasy cleaners like ''409'' .. to avoid impregnating metal pores with any oil.

Finally, in a few selected spots ..... usually small .. I used some 600 grit emery paper stuck onto small pieces of hardwood, toothpicks ... whatever worked .. and attempted to get these smoothed.

So ....... we finished with an all steel finish gun for the most part ..... complete still with some low spots and scratches from its past. This was fair enough for me and I then proceeded to do cold blue. All parts were rigorously de greased ...... initially alcohol bath but finally acetone. After that ... NO handling with skin contact ... either surgical gloves and/or ... pieces held by wire etc.

I blued using mostly 44/40 (didn't have Oxpho at that time) ...... and applied it fast and generously with cotton wool swabs ... followed on each piece by a water rinse and then very gentle buffing with finest wire wool. This removes some of already applied coating but prep's it for next application. And so on ... apply, rinse, buff - and repeat .... a good many times...... until the luster was about as good as it seemed to want to go.

Now I could have taken more care .... true, but this was enough for what I wanted ..... basically a piece that was once more looking as it should, complete with age and battle scares! Authentic if you like.

I got a new locking lever spring and mainspring thru Numrich ... these were missing or bust. And there it is ... far from perfect but ...... I was pleased. There is one patch on left side of barrel, that for no reason I could explain .... just refused to take the depth of blue of the rest! So finish is not consistent all over ...... the look tho is acceptable.

The bore was/is surprisingly good i am pleased to say - as were cyl chambers and throats. I keep it well protected in the safe with a good coat of wipe from my CLP rag or RIG.

This is hardly a definitive approach - and some may shudder ... but hey .. it's still a fine piece and way, way better than it once was. It now has a wee bit of holster wear too.

Hope this proves of some interest to you anyways.

Oh and .. I load Fiocchi brass using some 230 grn lead RN . same as I'd use for .45 acp but size em a tad larger.


w_mkVI_left.jpg



w_mkVI_right.jpg


I forgot to add ....... you mentioned proof marks etc ..... well, all original stampings are still as they were .... on left of top strap is ''MkVI'' stamped and cyl has its proof stamps over each chamber. i doubt if these would ever need to be removed or suffer, in process of this restore job.

And finally .... I did too in a few places try odd wipes of other blues ...... one was (forget make) a paste type . seemed to help in some spots. These were all selenium based cold blues IIRC.
 
Wow! Looks real good to me. Thanks for the quick and detailed response. I believe a refinish job like you describe is beyond my situation right now. I thought maybe I could just sand off the surface rust and wipe on some kind of blueing solution. Ah, live and learn. Incidentally, that's why I've only posted seven times. I tend to find the answer to most of my questions by searching the High Road and Firing Line databases. I'm reading the boards as often as I can, but I missed the info on the PA Fall Shoot. Where did that take place? By the way, there is a company called World Wide Militaria Exchange (or something close to that) that sells a "Sam Brown" flap holster for the mkVI. I bought one from them on eBay for about $28 and it's a good little accessory. Thanks again.
-November
 
I missed the info on the PA Fall Shoot. Where did that take place?
Go look at this thread ...... http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?s=&postid=539632#post539632 and it describes aspects of venue etc if you read thru. In case you didn't see the resume after the shoot, go here ... http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=46797

It sounds like you might be in PA?? If so or at least, not too far off ..... let me know and I am hoping possibly to try and fix a shoot at same place in the spring (hell, that seems a long ways off right now!).

Glad the info on MkVI may have helped ....... if time does not permit right now .. wait and do yours later when you do have the time ...... effort put in is well worth it.

Of course ... in short term ....... you could well do a careful surface prep .... nothing too aggressive .. and try a quick cold blue ... thing is you can always strip it back again later and do a more thoro job.:)
 
P95Carry,
Yeah, I'm in SE PA. I checked on Mapquest and Bedford is a bit of a haul, but maybe not too bad. Cold blue might be a way to go if it's not too messy. I'm off to my local dealer to try to decide between a 3" SP101 or a 4" GP100 (or maybe a 5" Davidson's special order). I wish Crimson Trace made a laser grip for the GP100. Might make the decision easier. Any input on this one?
 
Ahh ... SE ... well guess that puts you some ways off! However .. one or two THR guys are from that side and hope, with prospect of spring and longer days again .... maybe if I get a spring shoot fixed, it might be possible to tempt some of you over!!

The link below is a page with the CT laser grips ... these are just a tad dearer than CheaperThanDirt but . this does list the SP_101 version. I have one on order. With your potential choice of new pieces .... seems like SP is way to go if you like idea of laser grips .. OTOH the 4" GP-100 is also very tempting!! No grips for that yet it'd seem.

http://www.impactguns.com/store/crimson_trace_laser_sights.html
 
An Update!

P95Carry,
Just wanted to let you know, I went ahead with sanding and a limited cold re-blue. I'm happy with the results (no pics, though). Also, I snapped the barrel latch spring and ordered one from Wolff. It's the same as the one you got from Numrich. A little grinding and it works fine. I broke my original grips and ordered some repro grips from N.C.Ordnance for $20. They were a little rough and didn't fit right, but 25 minutes of grinding, sanding, and drilling and they were just fine. I should say that N.C.Ordnance was easy to deal with and offers a money-back guarantee, but you know how it is when you have them in your hand and say to yourself, "I can probably make these work". I wouldn't hesitate to deal with them again for other grips. I went a step further and slipped a Hogue Hand-All Jr. over the grips as well. The finger notch rests between my middle and ring finger. It feels pretty good, and for $4 it is a cool experiment. I've been firing standard .45 acp factory ammo in mine since I don't reload. I'll let you know if it blows up. Take care.
 
Hey! So you did it!! Well, sounds like a reasonable success tho it would be good to see a pic if you get round to it sometime.

I was a bit fixated over my barrel latch spring because the Wolff/Numrich one is so different ... however, I have come to realize that something like the original would probably be totally outa reach regarding cost. I think this is where a return to function is what matters most!

The Hogue idea sounds more than useful ..... might even look into that myself.
I've been firing standard .45 acp factory ammo in mine since I don't reload. I'll let you know if it blows up.
Haha! I'd rather not hear that it has had a KB .. take it easy on the ammo ... better still IMO to reload a sub power round specially for it .... it is not really that tough a gun ya know.

Anyways ... enjoy, and shoot safe. :)
 
I've never posted a pic, but I'll give it a try if you know an easy way to do it. Talk to you later.
 
If you guys haven't had a hammer nose (firing pin) break yet on a Webley, be patient: it will!

When it happened to one that I owned, the gunsmith was able to weld the old nose back on. Said it was probably stronger than when new.

Stirrup springs and mainsprings are also good parts to keep on hand for these app. 80-year-old guns. Some are over a hundred years old! (pre-Mk.VI.)

Why do you use Fiocchi brass to reload? I assume that you mean .455 brass? How can a converted .45ACP still use the old .455 ammo or cases? Normlly. headspace on a converted gun would be 'way excessive! I used .45 Auto Rim ammo in mine, when I could find it, to avoid fooling with half-moon clips and ACP ammo. Ditto on a Colt M1917 that I had in my teens.

Thanks,

Lone Star
 
November ..... well, if you have a pic .. and it ain't too large ... maybe something like 600 pixel on max dimension and say - 60K or so file size ......

When you go to type out your message ...... and before you hit ''submit reply'' .... look just above that button where it says ''Attach file'' .... use the browse button to find your pic on your hard drive.

Once you have posted the message and attachment ... open said attachment by clickin on it in the post .. it'll open a new browser. Copy the URL in that browser's address window .... and come back to original post and use the edit facility. Then paste that URL for the pic, into the (IMG) facility at top of main message window.

That way ... the pic will display. Try it and see.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Lone Star .. I fire mine quite rarely these days .. knowing that something else might break!! The mainspring is new, as is the latch spring ... only one that's original is the stirrup.

Mine is one of those from UK ... chambered from the get-go for the rimmed .455 Webley ... and Fiocchi brass is all I could ever find for loading rounds. I think I got it from ''Old Western Scrounger''. Most MK VI's tho I come across found in other's possession, have indeed been for the 45 acp.
 
Well, that's as big as I can make the pic without going over the max file size limit. Do I need to change some settings? I took the photo with my digital camera set to maximum resolution. Then I had to shrink the photo in my paint program. Should I set it to low res.?
 
Kudos November ... good work and success at last eh!! :)

Bear has said it ... but yeah .. NO BMP's .... they are max file size and unnecessary. Your pic tho small in pixels (291 x 279) ... is a massive 240k!!! I have compressed that to a mere 10:1 ratio below .. so it is now a mere 24k!!! That means you could post something nearer 500 pix or more and still only need a file size of 50-60k. If you compress even to 15:1 the degredation is minimal.

JPG is a ''lossy'' compression method, cos if over compressed ... all will not be available when decompressed for viewing .. but usually as I say 15:1 is pretty good and keeps file size sensible.

Great pic and thx for takin the trouble ... looks REAL good to me .... you should be pleased.



24k ... 10:1 compressed JPG .......

mkvi[1]_nov.jpg
 
November-

Is that a BLACK British service holster for the Webley? All I've seen were brown, but I think some colonial police forces probably used black.

The holster look unused. Is it a reproduction?

Lone Star
 
Thanks all for the replies. P95Carry, thanks for all the help. Your directions were good, I was just having problems getting the site to accept the file size (it took me an hour!). I'll give the jpg method a try. Lone Star, that's a repro holster in brown. I got it on eBay for about $25. If you do a search on ebay for "webley" you'll find a bunch. I'm happy with it. Thanks again.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top